It just blocks the heat and material transfer, and prevents blowing a lot of holes in your work. Really does an excellent job for filling trim holes, etc, too!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by brickman
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It just blocks the heat and material transfer, and prevents blowing a lot of holes in your work. Really does an excellent job for filling trim holes, etc, too!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by brickman
Or in other words, being a dissimilar metal the steel doesn't "stick" to it.
There ya go!!! That's what I was babbling about!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
That makes great sense, once again I have learned something from here today, I can now let my pea brain rest the rest of today!
Welders use em at work to rebuild keyways in shafts . Should have came to mind and brought some home.
Thanks rc yeah it does and to allmost any thing , Auto makers are giving some new cars the low roof right form the factory .
.......and sometimes by accident...........Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Hey guys I'm really not trying to be the fly in the ointment here, and I am absolutely open to learning new things on this; but, as I recall, using dis-similar metals in the bonding process radically speeds up corrosion (rust) at the joint. This is due in part to the fact that, as our wise Uncle Bob said, it prevents the steel from "sticking" to it and allows moisture to attach itself to the bare metal between the to materials. It is also, as I recall, due in part to the make-up of the materials being used at the elemental level, and their reaction to each other when bonded. In any event, I would think it would be something to watch out for.
Maybe, I misunderstood what you guys are saying, as I understand it, you are doing this to act essentially as a heat sink, to allow the heat to dissipate through the copper or brass and not the surrounding metal; but, I didn't catch if you were removing it afterward?
I also may be just overly concerned about this; but I did remove a braized brass section on the fender of my '55 during the build-up and had to also replace a good bit of the surrounding metal because it was well on it's way to the cancerious stage. The bondo that they had used on it was still holding up though...:LOL:
Thanks for all the help on this guys,
Dutch
Yes, it's merely a tool used as a backer during the welding process to keep from "blowing through".Quote:
Originally Posted by Firechicken
It's just used as a heat sink & removed after the welding is done.
Thanks Bob and Pro.
I'm tracking what you guys are saying now. As brickman said earlier, it does make perfect sense now, and I do indeed learn something new everyday. Some days the process just takes a little longer.
Thanks again,
Dutch
Bob looks like they did some channelling to it also .
Also have the welding figured out. I turned wire feed down below 1 and i have to move really slow but the bead is great very workable and no blow holes .
Slow wire feed causes the welder to be hotter right? I may be confused about this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by brickman
No, think about it like this, higher the wire speed the higher the amperage, you can vary the temperatue of your weld by changing your arc length, increased arc length = cooler weld shortened arc length is a hotter weld you should hear a higher pitch noise from your welder as you go in close.
You also use your voltage coarse and fine control switches to tune your welder.
Brick im getting alot better bead control . I think with the faster wire feed its pulling out more amps to melt the wire .
Southern i have a weld pac 100 lincoln a-b-c-d settings with a flux core wire.. I have tried the longer wire burn but slow and close is giving the results .
Brickman, do you want to work the metal after welding ? With sheet metal on body panels you want to grind the beads down so they are reasonably flat. Also the hotter the weld the deeper and harder the weld, so therefore welding depth is ruled out on panels to a certain extent. Unless you like blowing holes ! :eek: Flux cored wire has its advantages and disadvantages, but for doing panelwork I prefer usinga shielding gas as I have more control over my heat. But to each his own, depends what technique best suits you.
Panel work is a nice place to use a TIG welder.
AAAHHHH a tig would be killer, but not in my immediate future. My partner is working on getting a plasma cutter, they are very cool. How much is a decent tig welder?
I've had mine for awhile, but i think it was around 2g. Very versitile.
Seen a cheap tig/arc at the ole Harbor Freight $199 . I am one to wait and see some one say it was ok and worked fine before i buy one.
Southern i have only certain settings on this lincoln welder. Wish i had one that was tuneable. Would make this work alot easier. Thought about a gas conversion kit for it but for the little butt welding im dong here i hope i can surfice with it. My mustang had full panel replacements and no butt welds were required everything was spotted just like factory. Its alot more simple with them.
Patience is a virtue
Get a decent welder....I bought a 90 amp Mig welder from Harbor Freight.
I need three more to make a decent boat anchor. I now have a Lincoln
135 Amp rig, and 1/4 of a boat anchor. :eek:
Buy once....be happy. :D
Daver.
With your Lincoln is it gas and is there a big difference in it's welding from flux core wire. What settings does it have i have seen the newer ones but didn't really read on them .
bluestang67
Here is a trick I have used in the past and it worked well. It seems (no pun intended) your blowing through when butt welding the body back together. What I have done is using the peace you cut out.The 2" s of scrap. You can pop rivit the 2"s to the bottom half of the car leaving 1" above the top edge. Then set the top half back on. Then poprivit that the the 2"s. This will give you a 2" flange to weld to (1" up and 1" down) and you will be less aptt to burn through. You can put the rivets close together to make the welding easier. when finished drill out the rivits and weld in the holes. Practice this on some scrap till you get a feel for it. If you don't have any scrap go to a junk yard and get a smashed door or hood. Its better to learn on scrap than making more work for your self on the finished product.
Good luck
Cff thanks yeah seen a pic where some one did just that. Well after the fact it would have made it a breeze. . But all in all im just welding it slow and im not blowing thru so all is good. Its taking a little longer , not to bad though.
There is alot more to welding than one may think, I have learned alot in the last year. It's an art form, a craft in itself.
I did bring home a nice chunk of material to back up welds in the future. Put a little radius on one end .
Just a thought You might want to bolt a handel to that so you can hold it. It will get hot while working.
Cff very good idea .
Here is pillar i used strips cut off from boxing plates to fill larger gaps .
also pie cut just a bit to realign taper in pillar.
Talked to a welder at work . He gave a hint and said try a flux core wire with gas and it would give a outstanding weld.
Also want to give some credit to daughters b/f he has helped me so much, He goes at it with enthusiasm and enjoys learning and helping
Mike thank you .
Always great to see the young guys get in envolved, they are a great help to us old farts they just don't know. Looks like the chop is going real well.
Thanks Brick yep finished final welds this morn and grinding . Its taking on a new shape . Same pillar pic in finish .
Looking good Bluestang, looking like it came that way, thats going to look great painted.
I have finally gotten the side glass installed with my new power windows, working great after having to have to glass shaved down some.
Looking good, Brick!!!! New glass is always so nice to have in these older cars. You never realize how bad the original glass was until you get new glass!!!!!
Hey Stang, that top chopping is coming along just fine!!!! Keep up the good work!!!! The extra time it takes to do it right is well worth it when the project is done....
Brick now thats clear . Well i see you are one more step to complete it .
Thanks Dave yeah being first time in no hurry keeping a eye for the little things that may have me back up a step or two.. I never did like doing things twice.
Did the doors today . Use the trick of leave a little extra and made the doors so they both fit snug to the bumpers . I figure that will stop some door shake .
I did the get in a feel of the top lowered . No way i could do a 4 inch or maybe my bucket was to tall . Holding steering wheel from the stang.
Ya Bob, I would say a shorter bucket is in order! Say about 5" shorter! HaHaHa!! Looking good I must say, you guys are really at an exciting time in the build where things really come in leaps and bounds, very fun. Keep us informed.
Better take the Sawzall to that Bucket, you look a tad bit scrunched!!!!!
your right there Dave, but tell the truth you've "rode the bucket" through the gears a few times? Thats like ProZ saying he's never done any holeshots sittin' in the unfinished cage, I ain't buyin'!!!
:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: You Betcha, and proud of it!!!! I try to never go faster then the low 8's with the garage door closed, though!!!!:whacked: :whacked: Hate those short shutdown areas!!!!!!
That's my story ...... and I'm stickin' 2 it.:whacked: :LOL:
oh i fired it but i think i crossed the plug wires LOL
Well, got the tailights and license plate holder on, headlight buckets are molded in. Going to finish up the wiring tomorrow, then off to the exhaust shop....