Got a bit more done on Jackie's 'maro, primered the quarters yesterday afternoon. Next on the agenda will be the tailight panel with Corvette tailights (sort of) and rolled lower pan, with frenched license plate, of course.
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Got a bit more done on Jackie's 'maro, primered the quarters yesterday afternoon. Next on the agenda will be the tailight panel with Corvette tailights (sort of) and rolled lower pan, with frenched license plate, of course.
Brick one piece at a time but wow its looking so good . Good friends allways show up on work day .
Dave quarters are looking good also . I cant wait to see the rear in its custom form .
Well some headway here today daughters boyfriend was in the garage with me helping. Really glad he enjoys this type of work . We got the engine sitting on its own mounts. It was on a stand for 10 yrs , I was also glad when the factory shortys fit in there with it . I will still have plenty of room for column and steering rods.
I think it smiled when i put in this ole A . Next i have to start on the rear end and get it mocked in then the body will come off. This way i will know my wheels are center of the fenders . It was a good weekend .
Bob
Don't tell me your putting a Ford engine in a Ford :eek: and it actualy fit:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: . I didn't think that was a doable thing.
Dave
Whats taking so long
Brick
Realy like the blues
Cff I went to Thom Mc ann and got a few shoe horns . Helped a whole heap alot . They are long engines but dont really know what a chevy looks like close up in a A. So far all things planned are Ford . I think the column will be the trickiest part .
Bob, engine looks good in there, lots of room. Did the shifter come out in the location where you wanted in now too?
Charlie, wish I could just get the Camaro finished. Unfortunately it costs me money to work on it, but working on other projects pays me money!!!! Hopefully I can get back at it next week for a few hours...
Dave suprisingly the trans fits the easiest . I can see i will have to recess a bit deep and pedals will be close. I decided to move seat mount back just a bit . I'm waiting on pedals from a fellow worker so i can adjust inside passenger compartment to fit. Glad i did a sedan have plenty of room for long legs.
Well if I had enough yard to work on something I wouldn't complain about the garage. Sadly neighbors aren't as interested in watching my hot rod come together... Of course I have been spending time nursing an old beater truck back to health and upgrading my wife's firebird... Anyone know an easy way to convince someone to switch from a 305 to a 350? I have her almost convinced... I showed her the list of available performance options available for the 350... then I showed her the option for a 305... She's almost there... I saw her eyeballing a 383 stroker, and she was asking me why the heads I had on the shelf wouldn't work on her car hehe... ALMOST THERE!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by brickman
The Nash(named Rosalee after my grandmother, who convinced me to turn it hot rod instead of restoration, and who used to race stock cars), has been pretty well sitting waiting for the time when I can get back to work on it. I HAVE to replace that frame. It was originally designed to handle 35 BHP. It isn't going to hold up to the engine I'm throwing at it.... Soooo its going to be mostly cutting and disassembly for me.
Thanks guys, I like the Blues too.
Thats a pretty good fit Bluestang, nice thing about putting a ford engine in a ford is that it uses the stock mounts right?
i used some 67 mustang mounts and fabbed the ones from the frame . Still need to put in some gussets waiting to finish rear end then pull engine out . There is plenty of room from headers to the rails though .
The alternator and ac compressor will go back on there original bracket mounts that makes it alot easier and money savings. The engine allready had a dummy plate for power steering pump .
Sweet, looking like the ol blue oval is coming along nicely.
I have my lights all back in and working. How in the hell do you get overspray off of chrome? My engine is covered with overspray, and alot of those places are hard to get to.
Speaking of that is the liquid mask still on the market . That would have saved some relief for you Brick
Yup, got a jug of it out in the garage. works great to keep overspray from sticking to places you don't want it...Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Well, not only did I not like the wraparound tailights, decided I didn't like the overweight back window/hatch. Here's the framework, if you can't tell it will be a sort of fastback with a nice dark piece of dark tinted Lexan. Just guessing, should take another 50 pounds of ugly fat off the Camaro..... Hopefully can get some time to put a skin over the framework sometime next week...
Oh yeah, the metal part of the old glass lid will now become a trunk lid, just have to add about 4" to the front lip and put on some hinges....
Thats going to be wild Dave, a one off Camaro for sure. Are you going to drop a ford motor in her too?HeHeHe!!
Keep working on her tommycat, you can almost feel that new motor now!
I still haven't heard how to get this overspary crap off, we have a cruise-in friday night and I am not even ready but I am dying to go.
Did you try some lacquer thinner on a rag to get it off?Quote:
Originally Posted by brickman
No, I was afraid it would take the paint off of my engine.
Keep the rag just damp with laquer thinner to wipe off the chrome so it doesn't drip on the paint.
Dave some great custom work going on . I never used that liquid mask can it be applied over anything . If i remember it rinse's off like soap .
Brick i remember having to get it off when i ran a body shop no easy chore for sure . Maybe tape off engine where you can to protect it then wipe .
yup, you can use it on most anything. rinses right off... Great stuff, just put it in a spray bottle and squirt everything!!!!! (aka--lazy man's plastic drape :LOL: :LOL: )Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Dave lazy is sitting here wondering when a keyboard will type on voice command LOL
Well been toying with the 4 bar last few days. The install measurement of 41 5/8 c-c on rear end brkts are just a little wide. At this i had to force links on to bolts on front brkt really hard. I have moved them a little closer in 1/8 inch marks to fit up a little better. This morn will be fit #4 and hopefully right on the mark. The links have a 5 degree angle built in to connect at frame brkt . I know i dont want them loose but dont want to come along them together either. I also had to trim off about 3/8 inch wedge on frame brkts to get them verticle to the frame not a problem though . Frame is starting to look like a rod .
Should work good, Bob. I see the angle finder and the level, keep checking everything till you are 100% certain that everything is right.....then check it all one more time before welding...... (This advise comes from the "been there, done that, then redone it right" book of lessons........)
Dave measure and remeasure was the theme today but i have it all tacked in . It even ended up with a 103.5 inch wheel base as original :whacked: . I was allmost afraid to strike a arc thinking it would move on me LOL. Oh i did the cut tack and move . I spent alot moving brkts in on rear till links fit right . One time i put the 3 degree angle backward and wondered why the were off :CRY: so out it came and reshift again . Whew but its there .
Looks good, Bob. Going to have the car sitting on all four soon!!!!!
Hoping to have chassis rolling this week end so i can mock K member and trans mounts
Well done Bob, I am assuming there is a certain geometry that is needed for the suspension to work properly? Is this to assure the right amount of suspension travel?
Brick still in the learning process here . I will need to ask that question when i finally decide to shock it . I did run the drive parallel with 3 degrees down on engine and 3 degrees up on rear end .
But we did some moving on it today body has been pulled and i found the
vin # which does match the title and this gave me a relief. We used some 3 pulley blocks i picked up at HF and used 4x4 across body for lift went up very easy . We removed crossmember and brkts . Started wire brushing it down . The frame is not pitted hardly at all . We'll give it a good 3 inch on elec grinder then a light sand blast for prime .
Have to pick up stock to build the k member and trans mount and reinforce the frame. I have seen drive shaft loops installed so i guess this is a good idea for safety.
I need a second garage this one is packed with two cars and parts .
Big question is i notice the trans mount to bell housing has a list to the left.
I dont see extra holes and its mounted in . Does anyone know why it is like this .You can see it in last pic .
Some are rotated that way, suppose it was maybe for a tunnel fit issue or something... Can't really give you any technical reason, I guess....As long as the engine is level, can't see where it would be an issue with anything...
Dave thanks was causing me to tilt my head looking at it. As long as its normal i have no trouble with it . Never seen any like it allways square with the block . Engine bubble is between the lines , i think i over worked getting it there trying to be perfect with out useing the phrase Good Enough .
I had one sat the same crooked way in a V-8 Ranger I did for a guy a couple years ago. Still working fine, just looks like somebody goofed!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Maybe it's a Monday or Friday bellhousing.;)
I'm sure there was some good reason for building the tranny at a twist, just don't have a clue what it would be!!!!!
The bell housing is square drilled . Its the actual trans the drilled at a angle . Like dave says had to be a clearence reason for it . Have to keep it in mind so i dont angle the floor LOL ;
"I knew D'em fords where a little twisted..or is that the owners!!" J/k, that is a different looking tranny thats for sure.
Yup, both!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by brickman
I have a body mount question? I am mounting the body on my "Z". I am using only the body panels (No inner panels). There isn't much support for the top/sail panel area, so I added a couple ''roof to cage'' mounts . (See pics.) It's a mild steel chassis. I went to tech last week and looked around and I saw cars with roof mounts - some without. Steel body & fiberglass.
My question, do you think this will work or will I run into problems with chassis flex. My thought is these are connected to the main hoop. I don't want the roof to buckle. Most of the chassis flex should be forward of the main hoop? Am I wrong? These are the only roof mounts the others are rocker panels door striker, door hinges, firewall, rear body panel. Also, the panel under the rear window is flimzy, so I planned to run braces up from the cage supports that pass about 3" below the window and connect to the rear frame rails. Any help would be appreciated. This being my first race car it's a learn as i go build.
I will make the brackets look purdy' once I take the body off for the final welding & paint.
http://img4.glowfoto.com/images/2007...720157659T.jpg http://img4.glowfoto.com/images/2007...720168445T.jpg http://img4.glowfoto.com/images/2007...720204651T.jpg
Brick my head is twisted from looking at tranny so i put some blocks under one side of chair to compensate :D .
Pro i thought i had a delima with just the basic stuff . I know cars twist but that power has to be really configured into frame and body. Sounds like if some have it and some dont it will work for you either way . Your pro Z will twist harder at cowl and forward right. So i woudn't think it would hurt there in the sail .
I've had the best luck mounting the body solid at the hinge points of the doors and the rear quarters from the main hoop and rear frame rail, then mounting the cowl off the forward hoop. The roof panel I usually let float on pads mounted off the 4 corners of the cage. I've braced the panel behind the back window and the B pillar off the down tubes from the main hoop, and use this as a support for the roof.
Ahhhh Finally got my wife convinced to toss out that 305... It cost me an old truck though... Its ok though. The truck was losing frame due to car cancer, the floor pans were one good stomp from being fred flinstones(the carpet was the only thing keeping foot from ground). in fact the only thing that was good in that thing was the engine and transmission. Even the rear end had serious issues. When I gave it a little more power, snapped the u-joint and heard nasty noises coming from the pumpkin(and I didn't give it that much extra power... I'm not that good). Sooo I have this 350/350 combo that would either sit in the truck while I replaced the frame, floorpans, rearend, suspension, etc... or it gets built for my wife's firebird... She finally convinced me to get rid of the truck after she said I could pull the motor and I get more funds to play with...
Bluestang and Dave, Don't let any body kid you about that twisted tranny mouting being a Ford thing, They are rotated even more on GM with the same trans. Hank