Oh well, if they didn't pick on the Ford guys they'd probably end up picking on each other.....
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Oh well, if they didn't pick on the Ford guys they'd probably end up picking on each other.....
Dave Good thought
Hank do you have the reason for this off set on the trans . I know its not to pitch shifter toward driver . This is the type of info the engineers do with out explanation .
Well Bob, if it wasn't for us Ford guys, only thing they could be picking on each other about is what length bolt to use when they bolt their 350/350 combinations together!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Dave and i thought the science was done on a chevy combo . :3dSMILE:
You should see how cocked a third gen camaro t5 bellhousing is.
http://i9.ebayimg.com/03/i/07/c9/f0/7a_1.JPG
Note the orientaion of the block mount bolts, if the picture a was taken with the bell straight up and down, you can see how sideways the tranny mounts...!?!? You have to fabricate a wedge to mount the tranny to the cross member with these bells.
They are cocked for driver comfort, center console shifter location and sometimes an exhaust or crossmemeber clearance issue. It also looks like they did it here to drop the hydro clutch cylinder and linkage down to an accesible point below the body...
Sounds like a heck of a good reason to me, Gus. I put one of the 5 speeds like Bob has in a V-8 Ranger pickup some time ago. Worked great, tucked the shifter in close to the driver's seat and a perfect angle for some really fun gear bangin' with the 5 speed!!!!!!
That is wild, the dang shifter will come out the side of the tunnel!
[QUOTE=brickman]That is wild, the dang shifter will come out the side of the tunnel![/QUOTE
Actually, they come out in the top left of the tunnel, then the shifter handle has a bend in it to make it straight in the car. Not as far offset as it would appear. Remember, the shifter is in the center of the tranny not on the side as it is in the dinosaur 4 speeds....
Gus looks like about 20 degree on that one . Im happy knowing this is normal . That one had me tilting my head also .
Got the Longacre scales I ordered last week. I was hoping for 1,500 but i got 1,849 Lbs. :eek: :eek:
that's with a bare iron block & heads, 400th case, complete modular 9" all the body panels but the trunk lid, glass windshield & rear glass, mild steel chassis. I'm thinking if I can have it race ready at 2,800 Lbs. I'll be happy.
1800 would be good, heck with the full cage and all the bracketry on a mild steel car I'd say that was real good, Pro!!!!
That seems light to me with all that tubing.
To be honest, it looks more like 1,848lbs to me.
"Do I hear 1,847?"
I have managed to get some work done on my car, making it drivable again was a real chore. It was worth it though, I got to get her out to the local cruise-in friday night. I found a great console out of a pontiac grand Prix that is going to work very well, I'll have it in by monday with a little luck. Then I can finish putting the interior back together. I still have a months worth of cleaning to do.
It's actually 1847. I left a wrench in the back on the frame rail. :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
LQQKin' great Brick.
Was it a 1 1/4 wrench LOL Pro still looking good cant trust scales well at least my wife dont . SSSHHH
Careful he's probably going to change it to something like 1831 now. Sheesh.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Found another wrench, now it's 923.5!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:lol: :lol: :lol:
Need some advice on this one . I'm putting in some frame strength and wondering is there a rule of thumb . I'm going to run the sbf and it will have a little AW root beer stand power . I've seen some frames where there bracing incorparates the top and lower frame together. I think i will add a 1x1 square stock brace on the inner frame . Some have a angle brace going down to lower frame to support K or X member . The cross supports will have the tranny support and a loop for drive shaft .
You should box the rails with 11 gauge steel plates first then connect your x members to that.
Thought it would be more solid this way welding to frame then boxing around and welding . Also im using 11 ga plate for boxing .
nope, you should get the boxing plates on first. also makes fitting the plates and welding much easier. Once those are on, then anything resembling an X brace is the best brace to make. Don't forget to add a few gusset when the X-member is installed. Might also want to consider having the center portion of the transmission crossmember removable, a large enough section that you could R&R the transmission.....
Well, mocked up the new roofline that is relacing the rear hatch on the Camaro. Looks like about 3 pie cuts on the 20 gauge and a bit of dinging and pinging once I get the patterns transferred to the sheet metal from the poster board. Then a bunch of welding, grinding, filling, and smoothing. New back window will be some dark Lexan....
Ok out side it is . Would x bracing between the crossbars be ok . I will make a removable trans mount bolting in from bottom .
Dave adding gussets to frame under member for support
Dave that is taking shape . I.m imagining a completed view now and it looks great .
ok off to work
Yup, just some .125 triangle shaped gussets will add a lot of strength to the car... Remember this is the main crossmember holding the rails together in the middle and must be strong to prevent flexing. I make my center section removable, and attach it to the fixed portion of the crossmember with two 7/16" grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts on each end...
Might also want to consider another crossmember about 6" back of the end of the transmission above the driveshaft, then attach a tubular drive shaft hoop to it!!!! It will make the frame just that much stronger, and prevent the "pole vaulting effect" should the front U-Joint break some day when you're standing on the loud pedal!!!!!!!! (please don't ask how I learned this lesson!!!)
I an starting to feel that Camaro Dave, very cool.
I have always thought that you have to box the rails for strength first and then construct the car around them. Not saying thats right but it seems the most sensible to me.
Thanks Brick. I don't even like chebbies, but if I make a few more changes I could almost start liking this Camaro.....allready have plans for the other one, might get a bit radical on it...... This one is just a mild custom for Jackie. I'd imagine she'll drive it till the first time it scares the heck out of her, then put a for sale sign in the window and give me back my parts money!!!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Dave Cam is looking good.
Ok i think i see a pattern i can do Dave 4 day week end coming up i should have it mocked in. Ill get some pics here before i final weld . Im useing 1 1/2 inch stock, do you think 1 inch stock will work just for the X bracing or should i stay the same .
The 1" would be fine, plenty strong enough and a size smaller would be nice esthetically...
Dave,the curvature of your templates kind of look like 73-77 malibu sail panels,wonder if they'd graft in and give you a preformed lip to mount the glass? I'm actually surprised you didn't put a Mustang fastback roof on it. Hank
Brick trimming boxing plates around bracing is more but not too much . I did my motor mount this way . But now im seeing where a gusset to frame would be supplemental to spreading weight thru out height of rail . I did weld gusset on the inside of frame rail to mount for added strength .
I've got a shrinker/stretcher, forming the window lip is no problem. Mustang roof line would have gotten too far back into what is now the deck lid and creating an entirely different set of problems!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by halftanked
Bob, I'm not sure if I posted these pictures for you before or not.........if I did, sorry.
I see you are using a Model A frame, so did I under my '27. I boxed it with 3/16 flat stock, and used Speedway crossmembers for the motor mounts and also the tranny mount (also running a sbf like you) Then I fabbed up a K member setup to take out any tendency to twist. Frame is very solid and does not move.
The reason I like using the Speedway type crossmembers is that every 2 feet or so you have some kind of crossmember tying the two rails together, makes for a very ridged setup.
Just thought these might help you out.
Don
Don thanks i do remember it now . This is still a rough mock . The short braces on the right i will bring up from the lower section of rail . The level will be a cross brace at rear tieing the two back 45s together and the X member will be a removable section as dave had mentioned . I hope im not over killing but that is the tendacy i have when building .
The brace under trans is a temp just holding it up .
Ok off to make the Donuts
That should work, no such thing as overkill on that light of a car unless you were going to make the floor out of 1/2" plate!!!! Looks good to me, whatcha think, Don?
Don at work i kept thinking how good the engine mount is . My idea was i can drop oil pan with out any interference, i dont know now if that was a good thing or bad . I guess i'm allways open for changes untill final paint and i'll probable say oops i forgot that .
When I built the panel truck I made a removable cross member for the motor mount. I switched to carrera coil overs not long after this pic. but the motor mount stayed. I had the engine settin' high in the engine compartment as you can tell by the stilts it sat on. :LOL: :LOL: All in the name of weight transfer. :eek: :eek: