Going to start to install my door glass and power units this weekend, any tips or advice would be appreciated. I really don't know how I am going to do it yet.
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Going to start to install my door glass and power units this weekend, any tips or advice would be appreciated. I really don't know how I am going to do it yet.
Fairly simple to do, just read through the instructions that came with the power windows a time or two. Make sure the unit is installed solidly inside the door and centered under the glass. Welding a bracket or two onto the inside of your door is a much better method of installing the regulator then some lightweight bracket screwed in...JMO
i thought you were suppose to read the inst. afterwards.:CRY: :whacked: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Just documenting some minor progress on bumpers, turn signals (LED) and tack rail wood. Progress is slow but not zero. The rear is shaping up but the front end needs a lot of more work. The top is on order (2" chop).
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Thanks DennyW. The LEDs are made in the USA and have DOT on the lens so even though they are really running lights the DOT should help some? They are 12v and should work with my GM wiring system but they require a special low amperage flasher unit available from Speedway since LEDs actually take less current than a 12v bulb. The only problem is how to hide the wires. The simple solution is to add a few electronic tie-wraps to the bumper brackets with the wires underneath, but maybe I could make looms out of 1/4" tubing and paint them black to put under the brackets. There is a company in Ga. which has sold hundreds of turn signal kits for restored Model A cars but their LEDs need 23v and their kit is $169. They sold me the stainless steel plate to bolt to the bumper for $6 each and the LEDs were $9 each from Auto Zone so after I added some stainless steel bolts and washers I got the set up for about $60 and $10 for stainless gewgaws. The gas tank is in place but still needs to be bolted in and then I can add the fuel line. Everything takes time but when I rush the work I make mistakes, so I will just keep trucking along. Although I bought a roll pan I have not installed it since it would make it hard to change the battery so I will try to hide the battery with a luggage rack .
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
thats a sharp looking car. keep on keepin on
Thanks ChevyBoy, I guess you can appreciate those fenders being in PA? I grew up in Penna/Pa. and a lot of folks don't seem to realize that the "Eastern Style Rods" got the way they are partly because of fender laws. I like the looks of a fenderless rod and I guess it's great in Az or Cal but when you turn in through a mud puddle where does the splash go?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
i still wouldnt mind having the option of getting a face full of mud though... ever though there are some fenderless cars running around here with PA plates??????? all i can say is a nice car is a nice car and it looks like you got one of them....
Harmon
Very nice 'A' Don....... you lit a fire under my butt to get out in the garage this weekend and get back to work on mine. Haven't even looked at mine for many.... many months.Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
Would love to see more pic's of it.
DHOTROD, whatever it take to get you going, you have a handicap with the address of Street of Broken Dreams, you got to fight that! Actually I think my car will turn out to be better than a looker from 10 feet away, but maybe you shouldn't come closer than 5 feet. I have a written agreement to go back to the paint shop after I get all the accessories on for final touch up and to paint the wheels; there are some bubbles in the paint I hope they can smooth out. I am going to the Richmond NSRA Nationals as a general admission person with a camera and last year I realized that there are some incredibly detailed rods out there, but some of them are trailer queens. I am just going to do the best I can to make my car look and perform good/well and then drive it and wash it and drive it and wash it etc. Most of my pictures are scattered through other threads and there are some side shots on earlier pages of this thread when it came out of the paint shop. The metallic maroon looks diffferent in different light, sometimes a deep red and other times almost metallic brown, but I like it.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don, I'm surprised you haven't started a gallery for your progress shots. It'd be a quick way for later arriving folks to catch up with what you've been accomplishing.
Don, she's beautiful! Way to go man! I too wouldn't mind checking out some profile shots before the fall weather sets in and tunrs everything to winter. I really like the color.
Car is going to be super, Don. Great worksmanship and a well planned and well executed build.... Congrats on a fine one....
Weekend racing update--On Friday, Greg won his heat, 5th in the feature. Last night he won his heat, 2nd in the feature... Ebay has been kind to us this week also, scored 2 very nice sets of 461 heads... The rules for Super Stock next year require cast iron GM heads--no Vortech's--and only 1.94 and 1.6 inch valves... Looks like we have enough goodies now to start getting some engine's prepped....
Bob and Brick,
Well there is still a lot to do but I could collect pictures scattered here and there if I knew how to make a gallery; I still haven't figured out how to make a new thread on this new software. Bob, great idea, tell me how within the limits of the present Forum software. Brick, I just got back from the Richmond NSRA Nationals just three miles from my home and there were some amazing cars there but there is still a lot of room in the '46-'48 Chevy category, so choose your color! Think of all those old Chevys out there longing for a V8! Bob while you are telling me how to make a gallery, can you also tell me how to start a new thread? I took a lot of pictures at RIR yesterday and I could put some on the Forum. Also how do some people put more than one picture on a post?
Don Shillady
Retired SCientist/teen rodder
Wow Don, really great looking rod. Love the color.
Don
Okay Don, but it's gonna cost you some day.;)
To do your gallery just click the camera icon under your name from within a thread as here, or click the gallery link (with the picture of Dave's orange roadster) if you're on the home page. On the right side of the second link bar near the top of that page will be the "upload pictures" link that will take you to a page similar to the image management one you used to post to this thread. You can add titles and comments in a couple of the boxes if you wish to describe what the picture depicts.
To start a new thread there're two quick ways to get there. In the left column of the home page near the top there's a box marked "main menu" with two links listed (at least on my screen) the second is "forums", click that and you choose the forum you want to post in and it will give you a page with a "new thread" radio button in the upper left. Also on the home page, or any thread page for that matter, half way down in that left column is the
"CHR quick hop" box. If the forum you want to post to is listed there it'll take you right to the page with the "new thread" radio button.
There are other ways to get to these pages, but those are the two quickest I've found.
Went to a swap meet in Springfield Mo and I picked up a set of flowmaster 40's for $100.00! The guy had 8 sets left and I think most of them went to my buds. They are going on tomorrow and I can't wait to hear how it sounds.:cool: ;)
Hey Brick, if you or any of your buds want their hundred bucks back, let me know!!! As the old saying goes, sometimes it's better to be lucky then good, !!!!!! Heck of a good score, way to go!!!!
Drove her home from the Muffler shop today and was very pleased, it's not radically loud but deeper and more presense than before, I really like them.
I guess that means you won't be selling me them, huh Brick????:LOL: :LOL:
I didn't let any grass grow under my feet, they went right on the car. I put a couple hundred miles on her yesterday and it sounded great. Makes it just that much more fun to drive!
Just another small bit of progress. My son helped me bolt in the fuel tank I had fabricated by Rock Valley. It is of heavier 14 guage stainless than the 16 guage they usually use and they made it from a cardboard box I taped together. I had some small adjustments in the mounting taps and I had to get a new drill bit to drill some holes through the very tough stainless but we bolted it in and then found we could not get the hinge bolts back in the rumble lid, so we took it all apart again, installed the rumble lid and then played "teeny-tiny hands" to get the bolts back in between the quarter panels and the rumble hinge. I'll show two pictures, the first shows how the fill neck tucks under the lid in the left rear corner of the rumble seat. The actual "seat" will just be thin padding rather than the usual bulky cushions.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Brick: I am reading your muffler description with interest. I was going to go with cheap turbo mufflers as lt1s10 suggested but the decision is not made yet so I am interested in hearing various descriptions of muffler sound; you seem totally sold on the flow-40s; I guess at that price they sound even better!
Tank looks great, Don!!!! Know what ya mean on the teany tiny hands deal....Mine sure don't work as well as they used to, that's for sure!!!!
Continued Thanks to this Forum for the help and advice I have received and a place to report to. The idea of finishing the car often overwhelms me and I just mull it over for a few days and then do the next step. I am attaching a second picture showing the other side of the tank in which the 4" wide steel bar behind the tank is more visible. I had to angle that plate (1/4" thick) forward on the bottom to clear the bottom edge of the rumble lid when it is in the open position so I could only get a single 3/8" stainless bolt on each rear mounting tab but the front of the tank has a 20" long by 4" wide tab on the floor with three more 3/8" stainless bolts. The tank should hold about 13.3 gallons and should be well protected by the Model A rear bumper and the steel bar behind the tank. Compared to what I see on some 32-style tanks with only a chrome bar behind it this looks pretty sturdy to me and not likely to result in a Pinto-type explosion on rear impact unless by a train (in which case the explosion is the least of the problem!). I hope the upholstery person does not want to remove the rumble lid to attach a pad because I don't want to do the "tiny hands" trick again on those two back bolts. Actually they were easier to tighten than the windshield-cowl bolts on an MG midget; that is the teeny-tiny bolt-hole record for me, try it sometime!
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Note in edit: I was working on the second picture when Dave replied, thanks for the encouragement Dave!
Note 2 in edit: the bolt with a washer on the inner fender mount is heavy duty since it is the inside of the under-fender mount for the rumble step plate on the top of the right rear fender.
Thanks DennyW! lt1s10 gave me some ideas for the fuel line which is the next step and I will make sure it is mounted BELOW the hot wire from the battery to the starter which is also along the right rear frame rail. Still, looking at the situation I am a little surprised that the inlet on the stock Chevy fuel pump at the lower right front of the engine faces forward! I have the simple type pump with no tube fitting for overflow return to the tank, just one outlet to go to the carb. What I am asking for is what is available for a flexible line from the front end of the fuel line and whatever fuel filter I add at the end to the pump. A rigid fitting would probably last only a few minutes of vibration so there needs to be some sort of flex line from the fuel line along the frame to the pump inlet. Suggestions?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
looking good don, and maybe i'm missing something , but where are you gonna put the tank vent tube? a piece of neoprene hose at the fuel pump to let the motor move will work. you have a lot of choice of inline fuel filters you could use. for the street most any good filter will work.
Kinda like this;
Also, on some fuel pumps you can change the "clocking" on the bottom half.
Thanks Bob and lt1s10, the tubing idea looks like an easy fix for the vibration problem. As far as the vent tube goes, I discussed this with the guy at Rock Valley and I plan on just drilling a hole throught the inner fender panel and running a piece of tubing from the tank into the right rear wheel well, up high away from the tire. My wheels, for whatever reason, are out a little far from the inside of the fender wells anyway and my tires are just barely covered by the outer edge of the fenders. I went with the 8" rear precisely to avoid having to narrow a 9" rear and I measured a '30-'31 Model A with an 8" rear and exactly the same size tires that I have and they fit nicely. Either my offset is too far out and/or the '29 body is narrower than the '30-'31 body because what was supposed to be a perfect fit turned out to be just a little too wide, but I am not going to change the wheels unless I hit the big jackpot so I can use the extra 1" clearance inside the fender to vent the tank and anyway if the tubing hits the tire it is soft and will just "wear to size"! How come I get stuck on the simple things like a piece of tubing? I was thinking there had to be some sort of braided line for the fuel filter. I know I need a filter because I used to have a rusty tank in my MG Midget and even after I had it "cooked out" I still had to change the filter frequently and twice on my back along the side of an Interstate! The new tank should start out clean (?) but who knows what is in there. At least the stainless tank will never rust! Thanks for the picture Bob!
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Here's a pic from the other end of that fuel line, next to the tank. This is a spin on type filter complete with the mounting flange you can barely see, it's a GM piece if I remember correctly, but unfortunately I don't have a record of the part number or application. If you're friendly with a GM parts guy he might have a clue. I really dislike those cheesy looking inline filters next to or near the carb.
You should rinse out the fuel tank before final hook up and firing, even with the filter it should be done.
i would put the fuel filter between the fuel pump and carb. a lot to choose from. with the new tank ,you should be good to go. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...5&Ne=1&NeXID=1
I use the inline long tube cleanable filters, very easy to mount them along the frame rail. Sometimes it's tough to find a suitable spot for a canister type filter.
I agree Don, where can you go to find a brain trust for hotrods better than here?
Don: Nice tank. How many gallons does it hold?
Stainless will outlast the car. I ran mufflers on my '27 made by Stainless Specialities. They are still in perfect shape after all these years and miles.
Don
Thanks Denny, I missed seeing that.
Don
Bob you got me worried now, I don't really want to take the tank out again to rinse it out and I did not want to put gas into it until everything was set up because I did not want gas fumes in the tank while working on it. I think I will just trust on two filters one before the pump and look for something nice looking between the pump and the carb. Actually I don't see what you have against the filter before the carb. I use to think the old glass filters in the Fords were really neat to see what what was coming through. I prefer to have a see-through filter between the pump and the carb but I had no idea there were such extensive filters back at the tank, that looks pretty thorough to me. Echoing Brick, this Forum is pretty amazing considering the experience available from all of you. I was just looking back through the last several pages and note that Dave is now setting up 461 heads on a SBC after all those posts on the Blue Oval! Are the track rule limited to SBC 400s for the tracks where he runs? I guess there are many different Racing Associations with 4 cyl, V8 etc. but it does sound strange with Dave picking up 461 heads. I had a set but thought they were too high on the CR for the street and the set I had did not have any accessory holes so I sold them to a local circle track guy here. I guess they are second only to a set of 461X heads but I have never seen the 461X heads, only read about them. Well thanks for the help and ideas. I will check with the Rock Valley folks and hopefully they cleaned the tank out when they leak tested it?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Since I am in the Marine business, I have always used a spin on water separating fuel filter like the ones used on boats. The one I use is a 10 micron that catches almost everything, and I mount them before the pump. I always use electric pumps, and these pumps hate dirt.
Every 6 months or so I toss the old filter and spin on a new one.
Don
Itoldyouso, That's very interesting, a good filter before the pump would take care of it. I'll look into a marine type filter. Any part no. or brand to look for?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don our Wissota (sanctioning body) requires a max cubes of 360 cubes. A couple of my long time sponsors prefer a chebbie engine in the car, so chebbie engines it is..... Would love to put one of my beloved blue ovals in it, but the big check from a sponsor weighs more on the decision then my personal brand preference!!! I did acquire a set of 461X heads a couple years back at a swap meet and have allready sent them off to be magnaflux inspected and then they will be used on the primary engine. Hope to have 2 complete engines ready for the car, as well as one that shall we say enters into some of the grey areas in the rule book.......
As far as your tank, before you make your final connections to the fuel system and are ready for fuel you could fill it with lacquer thinner and let it soak for awhile, then drain the lacquer thinner out and dry the tank with compressed nitrogen from a cylinder with a low pressure regulator. We use a similar setup on our pit cart for racing to run impact wrenches at the track. Nitrogen as you well know is a very dry gas and will remove all residue from the tank. You would need to regulate the pressure to less then probably 15 psi or so, but it will do a very good job of purging the system prior to it's intial filling. We do this on all our race cars after they have been sitting over the winter.
I have gotten away from the see-thru filters in the fuel system because of the inherent fire hazard should the glass or plastic container get broken. As I said earlier I use the long inline washable element filters with AN fittings now for race cars and hot rods. I also either use hard line or stainless braided lines and avoid rubber hoses like the plague!!!!! A bit more expensive, but the increased safety IMO is well worth it. Whenever I do have to run an electric pump, I also use an oil pressure shut off switch to shut off the pump as an added safety factor...... Racing has made me a bit paranoid on some of the safety issues, I guess. Still the scariest thing that can happen on a race car, Hot Rod, or any type of car is FIRE!!!!! I don't mind spending the extra $$$$ on a car to make the fuel system safe....
YEp fire scary!!:LOL: I think Denny made this little fella!!
An old remedy to cool the fuel and prevent vapor lock was always to clip clothespins to the gas line at or near the carb. The pins would absorb heat from the fuel line. I wonder if vapor locking is still a problem with carburetored engines.