AWWWwwwww... go tell that to your wife! :eek::eek::LOL::LOL::D:DQuote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
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AWWWwwwww... go tell that to your wife! :eek::eek::LOL::LOL::D:DQuote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Just got off the phone with Primo. They're mocking up some wheel design ideas and a price for super skinny's up front and bigs in the rear in a salt flat slotted design similar to the Billet Specialties LoBecks. He mentioned the price shouldnt be much higher than what I was looking at for the Road King. Probably have more in wheels than most of the rest of truck but it's the look I'm dying for. I really wanted to mix things up with 20x15's in the rear for a pro street look but I fear Mickey Thompson stopping that line of tires and then I'd really be stuck. So I'll stick with the 20x10's and the biscuit cutters. It'll be a weekend warrior at best so I'm not so worried about a lot of use. Also spoke to Holley today, going backwards on the LS. Going back carberated. Midrise 2x4 intake with a pair of 660 center squirts.
Was going to go with the cantilever suicide front but I may ditch the air ride for spring behind axle so I can use one of the three solid axles I already have.
Dave, you talked me out of the Winters quick change. Instead I'm going with their aluminum housing 9" in. Price is cheaper than if I started from scratch with a FAB 9 which I really don't think will look as good out in the open. By the time I pay for the wheels I may end up going with a buddies 9" to help keep some money in the bank. My wife is about to skin me already but is still supportive. Lols.
Can't wait till spring.
David
Did you ask the Winters tech how much power the aluminum center 9" can take and live??? I keep looking at the aluminum center with the black paint in their website, don't necessarily like the black, but with the aluminum smoothed a bit and powder coated a nice color might be just the ticket under my '57......Quote:
Originally Posted by Stovebolter
Dave,
I honestly cannot remember but Charles knew I had projected desire for 600 hp. I plan to stroke an LSX block to 427 cu in and run the LS3 rectangular port heads. Surprisingly the Championship quick change rear wasnt but $200 more than the 9" and Charles suggested asphalt circle track cars with up to 900 hp were using them. I imagine the difference (why you wouldn't want them in a drag car) is because their already under power where a drag car is dealing hard launches in the first 60'? Call Charles up. He's a really nice fella. The price he quoted was for the 9" on page 17 of their catalog (available online) in as cast finish, powder coat black (additional $71), polished and machined ( additional $120) , complete hub to hub with center section and their trac posi less axles. The 31 spline axles additional $375. Man that is not a bad price for a rear that looks that nice. I was and still am really impressed. I've been putting off calling them for two years because I really figured they were much higher.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
I've ran a couple quickies on the street, they're ok till you get tires that hook, then the case lets loose, usually at the pinion bearings on the back of the case. When we ran the dirt late model had a Winters quickie in it, as well as front hubs and a Falcon transmission, all if it held up great. The only thing I don't like on their 9" stuff is that they don't have the thru-bolt bearing mounts for the 3rd member...
But I sure do like that aluminum case for the rear end housing, + it's a bunch lighter then a stock 9", and right there with a fabricated moly housing...I suppose you could put 'moly tubes on their housing center and cut a bit more unsprung weight, huh?
I don't know just where this conversation got going between the 9 and the quick change, but as I read it seems to be centered around weight???
Strange has a redesigned and lightened 9 in iron center housing that I think he said they took 7 lbs off---
I have ran q-change under fuel cars for the purpose of lowering height of funny car and only issue was occasionally breaking the rear change gears-
In our rear engined dragster, I used a franklin center, Halibrand 3 inch axle, only one brake disc but with 2 calipers and Nance magnesiam side plates--broke the thrust side plate, built a billet 7079 alum one(was a bit heavier then) problem with that set up was with only one brake disc the heat from the brake was enough to loosen the splined hub on that side---and after breaking a set of change gears in a final somewhere--changed to ford 9 inch-
We ran the 4.86 ring and pinion because the ring gear was thicker and stronger than the 4.11--never had a ring and pinion problem---
Oh yeah!!! I remember a picture you posted with the wheels way up and the quickie showing, Jerry!!!! Guess the last quickie problem I had in a street car was similar, broke the quick change gears about 60 miles from home.....
I was looking at the Strange Housing, too. They also added a lighter set of brakes for the rear now too. Winters sez that their aluminum center for the 9" housing is 15lbs. lighter then a steel housing....thinking maybe the ideal way would be to use the Winter's aluminum center for the housing, then a pair of 3" thin wall 'moly tubes.... Should be strong and light, even gave some thought to going to a set of floater ends and hubs with the 31 spline axles?????? Never did brake a hub on a floater unless it was from getting into a wall or another car....
I got the Strange floater hubs on my pro stock chassis---used the 5 1/2x 5 bolt circle--don't even have to jack it up to change rears----also have a aluminum center(don't remember if it is Strange or Mark wILLIAMS) IT HAS THRU BOLTS FOR THE CARRIER BEARIBGS sorry about caps)---I do prefer the nogular iron housings though for drag racing as nothing then lets me down--35 spline gun drilled axles----
Best thing about the floaters is the gear change without removing the tires. The thru bolt carrier is way stronger, IMO--We've got over 200 runs on the Comet (only a high 9 car) and absolutely no problems. Also, I like to do a bit of corner carving, maybe even an open track day or two at a road course, and the floaters are much stronger for that then a flanged axle..
Dave--if you still don't have the part for your furnace---JohnstoneSupply or Grainger----both big suppiers of HVAC stuff---and also Dreisilker.com
It's some sort of weird motor that turns the wrong way, can't just reverse it cuz it has to send a signal to a pressure switch to make the furnace light.... Johnstone didn't even stock it!!! Hopefully it will arrive yet this afternoon on the Big Brown Truck, going nuts sitting in the house all day!!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Hey OJ, are you doing any classes at your shop this winter? I didn't see any posts on here so I was going to check the other forum, but saw you pop in here.
35Ford I keep loosing your build link !! geez these computers need reformatted every now and then .
Jerry & David, I see Winters and Strange now also offer aluminum hubs for their floaters..think they'd work out ok for the '57 being a street/road course car, or better to stick with the steel units?????Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
steel hubs for street, aluminum hats for rotors
I probably won't run the floaters although it would be nice. I'm leaning towards the quick change again. But I'll probably change my mind again before the end of the day. Dang ADD. LOLs. Why is there such a difference in the price direct from Winters and Speedway? Winters price is much cheaper direct.
About to leave the house and check out that 36 cab. Hopefully they will sell it. It's in really nice shape.
David
you're not missing much Bobby..I have a link that I haven't updated in a year or more! :rolleyes: :o it's part laziness and part just haven't done much of anything on it at all or worth showing!Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Ok, figured that was the best way to go. Guess in something critical like a hub strength has to take the priority over weight!Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Ive been buildiing my 50 hardtop now for about 2 years since I sold my 50 merc monterey to finance the build. The drive train is done finally. 250 stroker..292 head and crank. JE psitons. big cam fenton like headers. dual rochesters. Built 700R4 57 chev posi 3:73's ...75 percent of the interior is done..All the chrome is done...plus some...most of the body work is done...still needs more blocking...fortunately this is a rust free hardtop...very hard to find a non rusty 50, due to the way they built them back then...all the glass is done and tinted..shes lowered, with dropped uprights and lowered springs, and a dropped steering arm. Blocks out back with lower rear leafs..chrome smoothies, with whitewalls...Its been a slow and costly process, but im taking my time and doing it right...I went back to school, so its going really slow...
Kanaka,
WE need pics, pics and more pics.:):)
Jack.
Doing a frame off on a '69 C10 short box. My first build and its been a big learning curve. Engine bay and interior are painted, exterior not yet done. Ordered a small block stroker from Smeding Performance yesterday. It should be shipped at end of Feb. Next thing to throw money at is a tranny. The diff is a 12 bolt 3:08 so a 700R4 won't work. Recently read an article on the TH400 with a switch-pitch torque converter. Spoken with Phoenix Transmission and think I will go that route. Would love to get this hot rod finished its been a long 6 years!!
Why not change your rear gears and go with an overdrive tranny? They are nice if you plan on driving on the interstate at 70+ mph.
Its all about money. Its cheaper to leave the 3:08 and the switch-pitch 400 is cheaper than th 700R. The switch pitch gives me good acceleration off the line and at 65mph turns 2700rpm. The 700R at 65mph would turn 2500rpm. For 200rpm its not worth the cost to switch out the rear gears etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by rumrumm
Borrowed a heater from a bud for the shop, looks like the control board is out on my Reznor, too. Chit!!! Guess I'll have to do some price checking on a new one.....
I did manage to get in a little time on my old pickup today. Going to have to repaint the hood and grille, some clown just couldn't leave it alone while I had it parked outside.....:mad::mad::mad: Then while I was working out the new gouges in the hood I decided to redo the headlight openings a bit, too. Hopefully I can get this furnace issue resolved and get some repaint on the old and paint on the new parts for the Ford and actually have one of my own done and running!!!!!
Another one of them one step forward and 3 steps back days.......
Shame for that to happen to you Dave . Also for the mugs with raccoon fingers .
Dave A question if you don't mind?? Won't the 57 be a bit top heavy for road racing??
Stock,it would be...Those issues are being addressed!!!!;)Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
Yipppeeeeee! I've got a warm shop again! Install was a piece of cake, had to buy a few fittings for the supply line, but that was about it! Seems to be a very nice, uniform heat. Just a 100 CFM fan for a bit of air movement but not that noisy dang thing in the Reznor! Thermostat doesn't have temperature settings, just a scale of 1 thru 5.... Got it started, set it on about 2 1/2--hour and a half later the temp was 82 degrees!!!! Seems to be plenty of BTU for my little shop! Thinking I'll get a little 10" or 12" fan to hang in the corner furthest away from the heater to get a bit of circulation, but I think that's about all it will need for a 'tune up'..
Good news, Dave! Know you're glad to have the new heater in service and it sounds like it's up to the task. Heck, next you'll be posting pictures working in shorts & T-shirt with the snow stacked up outside!
Well Rog, with arthritis and fibromyalgia, then add in some really poor circulation on my left side, I just can't do nuttin' when I'm cold!!!!!! Ok, I can't do much when I'm warm, either..:LOL::LOL::LOL: But, if one is going to just sit around and be bummed cuz you can't work as hard as you used to , might as well be warm when you do it!!!!!:whacked::whacked::whacked:
:LOL:and if you understand all that could you please explain it to me?
Just took Pepper for a short walk and checked out the garage. I came in the house a couple hours ago, before I left the shop I dropped the t-stat to 1 1/2--temp is now stabilized at 65!!!!! and as you mentioned earlier, I no longer have that noisy dang fan messing up my hair!!!!!!!:cool:
Good news Dave. Glad your back in action. What happened to the truck hood and grill? I've been contiplating heat in my garage too, right now the thermometer out there is reading 39 degrees. The cement slab keeps it pretty cool unless I open the bay doors during the day. It's very well insulated so I think a little heat would work, just not plumbed for gas, so have to go the electric route!
I gave some thought to going electric this time, just too dang long of a cold season around here. I looked at an electric unit with similar BTU, think it was just a shade over $300. Then of course probably need to add an extra breaker in the box and wire the heater into there. Of course, we would all hire a certified electrician to do that!!!;););)
Good deal, Dave. Glad to see you're back in business!
Went out to the shop this morning, temp was still holding right at 60. Turned the it up a bit, about an hour later it was a nice, comfortable 70 degrees!!!!
As for the hood and grille on the pickup, I had it parked in the front driveway for some time..... Somebody decided it would look better if they kicked the grille and put some gouges in the hood with a key or something.... Got an idea who did it, for his sake he'd better hope I don't find some proof that it was him!!!!
They are a top heavy car stock... the back half of the roof had been caved in from kids jumping on it, have to replace it so instead of using 18 ga. (.047") steel like the factory used, I'll use .040" aluminum. Back window and all the side windows will be lexan instead of glass plus a few other things to lighten it down. In '57 the cars were still built for driving on bad roads, so the engine and tranny were quite high in the chassis. I'll be changing all that, lowering the engine height and moving it back to move the CG down and the balance back. Mainly just changing from all the old style, heavy weight materials that were used on the car to some modern components that are both stronger and lighter.Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
A chalanging task. Glad you got your heat working again. I know if mine quit I'd be down stairs playing with my trains. Can't take the cold like I used to. I think all the years working outside year round took care of that.. I think we need some pictures of that 57 and how its progressing..
Can't even see the thing now Charlie! Pushed back by the chassis table and all covered up! Got to get the others done so I have room and time to get on it!
Pay work before play work....A bummer at best
Yeah!!! Just what kind of deal is that anyway????? Happens around here all the time!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
Is Brickman still coming in with hid 48 Chevy ???