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Chickenlegs---You sent me a private email requesting more info about my roadster pickup. I documented the entire buildup on clubhotrod, but their website had a major crash last year and now all the pictures are totally screwed up on the old posts. You can see all the buildup of my rpu over at streetrodding.com.----Brian
Got the crossmember tacked in place. If the IHRA tech says it's o.k. I'll weld it in. Then we can get the paperwork finished for certification. I've got the converter cover and a deep cooling pan on there for clearance. I figure if it clears those obsticles it should clear anythin'.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...boltsleeve.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rossmember.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...deTackedIn.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...detackedin.jpg
Looks good, Pro. Why did they need an X-member there? In case the trans case splits or ????
It's the required 6C member in the SFI book. NHRA considered the tranny crossmember as the 6C member, but IHRA said the tranny crossmember was too far back from the 6A & 6B members to be legal. It's to protect my feet in a side impact. Never know when somebody might take out the center cones and t-bone me :CRY: I guess I'll just have to be fast enough to not let that happen. :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
makes sense, I guess... Maybe IHRA just has a lot more drivers that lose it and run into other cars????:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
:LOL: :LOL: Could B :LOL: :LOL:
That reminds me of this little deal. Just shows how fast things can go bad.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/Orlando/FastEd.wmv
http://competitionplus.com/index.php...d=829&Itemid=6
Yup, been there done that just not on a dragstrip.... Usually happened just when I was getting ready to go fast!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: Building a car that is too safe is just about as impossible as building one with too much horsepower.... Heard of it happening to others, but can't imagine it happening to me!!!!;)
A real bone head friend of mine built a car for the strip. He could easly pull the wheels. One day being stuiped while the wheels were in the air he decided to turn them :eek: .He didn't get them back in time and totaled it.I think thats called being an A$$ hole
They have reasons for all of thier rules probly, car is looking very mean ProZ!
How big of a chore is putting suicide doors on a car? If it isn't a years worth of work I may put them on my '48.
When I did my 38 I used the rear door hinges and jambs from a 50 plymouth. I grafted them in it worked real well. They sell kits to do this they are not cheap You not only need to relocate the hinges but the locking system also. If you deside to do this I STRONGLY recomend the bead bolt pins so the doors can't open while your traveling. I know first hand that is not a good thing.
Driven em sideways ,backwards ,heck even upside down aint nuthing for the Big Daddy:LOL:
I got a couple doors today. They seem to be about the same size as the doors on the "Z", so I think I'll use 'em for that purpose.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...amaroDoors.jpg
Bet there a little lighter:LOL: :LOL:
Haven't checked yet. My old ones complete w/glass are 106 Lbs. ea. I'm guessin' the new doors w/o hardware are around 25 lbs. ea. :toocool:
Brickman
Heres some pics of during and after
Thanks cfisher, that is very helpful. I had already decided to use door lock pins just for the common sense of it all. Looks like a chore but not so much that it can't be done.
I remember one of the things I did was leave the front hinges in place to help line up the door while fitting the new ones in. Those doors are heavy and when working alone you have to come up with any trick that works. I put them on my 32 also only I made those hinges.
Good advice, they are heavy buggers by yourself. Going shopping for kits tonight to see what kind of expenses will be ahead.
Getting the wires all lined out and redone,fuel pump ,mounted ,fan mounted ,remote wires for the switching solenoids run ,for fan and fuel pump and headlights.Exaust fabricated from a ford truck y pipe with cat ,to its new home on the chevy!!Ford parts always help a chevy:HMMM: Clutch linkage hooked up and adjusted ,brakes bled and ready for temp use.clutch/ z-bar hooked up and adjusted.3 on the tree ready to go .Hoses double hose clamped and ready.Water pipe sized wire ,ready to carry the load.....WoW I been busy and did not know it:LOL: No order to the pics ,just pics of the items I have hooked up.Plese disregard the dust,its a driveway project,but under all that dust:CRY: it is nice shiney and new!!
More pics.Its almost starting to look like a truck ,instead of a bunch of incomplete pieces under the hood.Once I get all the wires lined out,they will be put into wire sheaths.
Last pic,now take it easy on me ,this is my first complete restore /hot rod project ever. Go look at my gallery for more pics,from what I understand now ,I am bringin this thing back from the dead.It was pretty rusted out.Heres what it looked like before too.
Lots of work there. I have a sugestion though. Put a drop of crazy glue or somthing like that on the allen heads on your covers. I used those on my vett and they kept getting lost. Edelbrock is more than happy to sell you more.
Thnx,I have already knocked a few off ,cheap plastic garbage,I was actually under the impression when I bought these that they were really 2 piece:LOL: I see shiney car parts and get tunnel vision and start putting money down before I check em out too good.That carb cover/dust cover is going to go by by too,I am going to route a cold air pipe from somewhere out of sumtin shiney:LOL: I am really disapionted in the quality of some of these brand name exspensive shiney parts.The 160 buck crome 100 amp alt being one of em,looks 10 years old and I have never used it yet,will not buy one of those again either:LOL: I should have spent the extra on the black 6000 rpm + racing one,instead of shiney one with the hidden instructions inside the box under a flap that said do not spin to 6000 rpm:CRY: Word of caution ,leave the "Spectre" brand junk on the shelf of the local parts house too.:CRY: I wanted a learning exsperiance :LOL:
Yea I have the same tunnel vision I've had it for over 50 years. I got extra little plastic allens if you need them:3dSMILE: :3dSMILE: Wish I still had the vett. Had to get rid of it as I looked like an idiot trying to get out of it. Even got a tilt wheel still couldn't exit with grace.:eek:
So far the King chrome stuff that I am using is holding up very well.
An update, a few months late (see post #1130 in this thread). We got the suicide doors (jesus that was alot of work!) and trunk mounted and are only about 50% done with the interior. Frame, axles, engine, and most accessories are mounted and painted. Still got a few days worth of bodywork to do (dont wanna do the bodywork while the body is on the frame).
Hoping to have her on the road sometime in Janurary or February.
Looking real good!!! You got a bunch of work done in a short time.... Keep us updated on the progress.
Nicely done Shawnlee, looking like a street rod. It;s really fun to watch the change take place. It really inspires you to do more work on them, Very cool!!:cool:
Way cool looking car pieceofpaper, I love the suicide doors. I had to give up the idea on my car. The car is really looking good.
My pile of parts is growing, and she goes into the paint shop finally in 2 weeks so my car is finally going to be painted. I am really stoked about that, I have a new console in progress and have everything as far as body rubber seals. I may be getting toward the end of my build, time to start looking for another project.
good looking stuff, glade to see someone can still do it. keep up the good work. :cool:
I've been talking about it and gathered a bunch of really good information on the engine to be built for it, so here's a couple of in progress pics of the Camaro I'm building for Jackie.
That little weak link looking rear end is going to be replaced with a 9". Bored this morning so I cut the ends and all the extra brackets off of a 9" housing. Next step for it is to put it in the lathe and make the cuts for the new length, weld some ends on it, check it for straightness and start fabbing up some brackets to mount it with. I'll be using some reinforced stock lower arms with a lower mount hole on the rear end bracket and stock location on the front to help a bit with weight transfer. The top mounts and bars I will fabricate for a triangulated 4 bar mount. The car will have no back seat, 6 or 8 point cage, frame ties and all the usual go fast goodies..... Lots of work to do, but no pressure on this one I just work on it when I feel like it....
Cool deal Dave. Don't cha' just love those GM projects. :HMMM:
I made up these seat mount sleeves for the aluminum seats. Got 'em welded in now. Flanges give the bolts somethin' nice & flat to tighten up against. I hope to get more time later in the winter to get some serious stuff done.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...oltsleeves.jpg
Neat stuff. Must be busy again, huh??? Going to have the Camaro up next summer????
No, I don't think I'll have that much time. My winters are purdy' short. Hope to get the body on and a few things like steering, brakes, etc. done. Interior sheetmetal ......... is an outside possibility.
I'll have pics up of my '67 Falcon's engine build up when I get a cheapie camera, that I won't worry about getting destroyed in the auto shop. gonna get 1 of the $15 1's from walmart. also going to fix the rear 1/4's after the engine is built, I may cut the 1/4's out of a diffrent car and reshape them to fit in the falcon. we have a selection of about 10 cars I could use, there all junkers
Matt, if you can't get any aftermarket quarters for the Falcoon, might want to go to Metalshapers and check out some of the hammerforming techniques. Doesn't take much more then some plywood patterns, a bunch of clamps, and a lot of labor.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt167
Sorry if I missed it Mat but what size engine are you building for your falcon?
I was working on the Camaro today, body work and welding in some patch panels. Decided I didn't like the dash, so here's a pic of the stock plastic one and the template for the 3/8" Aluminum one that will replace it. Thinking about getting the aluminum dash plate black anodized, then using Autometer Phantom white faced gauges. The rest of the gauges will be in a custom aluminum panel above the radio. Let me know what ya think. My first time messing around with these mid-80's Camaro's, trying to come up with some different looks that aren't too radical of a departure from stock... I'll move the headlight switch and whatever else I need for switches below the tach and speedo, small holes and LED lights for the directionals. Idiot lights on the old dash are on the "delete" list.. Thanks
I don't see why that wouldn't work AND look real nice.