everyones welds look better than i could do:LOL:
i go with the idea , you dont have to be a good welder , just be a better grinder:3dSMILE:
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everyones welds look better than i could do:LOL:
i go with the idea , you dont have to be a good welder , just be a better grinder:3dSMILE:
yup, with the right grinding and sanding, then some good paint, even my yucky old welds look good... Sure am glad Bill is such a good welder, I can't see a thing welding anymore----come to think of it, can't see much when I'm not welding!!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Ever seen any real numbers on torque gain with an H-pipe???? Some of the advertised stuff is a bit exaggerated, I'm sure.... Big thing with the pickup, I'm kind of limited on where I can put the crossover in---are there any hard and fast rules on how far back from the engine they work best????? The engine is a 351W-HO, they are a good engine, but more torque without sacrificing driveability would be nice!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
David Vizzard sayes from dyno testing ........100 percentg chance of about 2to 3 db less exaust noise and anywhere from 0 to 12 hp dependind on the set up.100 percent shure is quiets it down a few db and makes it sound alot better and anybodies bet on whether your combo will respond with 0 -12 hp....,but he goes on to say ,he has never ever seen it hurt hp or make the exaust louder ,in his words ,...its a win win ,with nothing to lose.!!!:D
Dave,I was told a way to locate your pipe. Take a lumber marker and draw a straight line down the inside of both pipes,and then take it out and do a good rip down the road,then check your pipes,where the lines are burnt off the best is where the pipe belongs. PS, those 4 into 2 into 1 collectors really work too! Hank
This is just a driver, don't even have headers on it... I've used the chalk thing for years on collectors for drag cars----cut the collector where the chalk color matches the plug reading. Don't know as I would have room to put the H-Pipe that far forward on a pickup...... Did some looking at the store bought H and X pipes, seems most of them have the crossover in the vicinity of where the tailshaft bolts onto the transmission case.... Don't know, maybe without headers they don't do as much good for torque improvement. I'm using all mandrel bent 2 1/2" exhuast pipe so the pipes probably outflow the exhaust manifolds anyway.... Guess I'll be happy if the H-pipe takes the nasty cackle out of the exhaust sound....Always thought the pipes caclkling sounded great when I was a kid....Wonder why that changed??????:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by halftanked
Never did like redneck crackle pipes, I will be watching your progress Dave, I will be curious on how this pipe works for you. I may want to do this to my car.
That'll work. I do it with a non-contact digital thermometer just because I have one. It's interesting because with that, you can see just how big the temperature difference is at "the hot spot." It generally an area of only a very few inches and will be around 100 degrees~ hotter than the areas just ahead of and behind it.Quote:
Originally Posted by halftanked
You might also be interested to know that Magnaflow has dual in and out mufflers with an integral X built inside. I used one as a resonator when I built the current system that's now under my Vette. While it may not be practical for all cars, it worked well for me because it's configured just like my factory resonator was with a 4" center to center on the inlet/outlets. They also offer wider ones. They're entirely 304 stainless and while they retail for about $200, I found a brand new one on ebay for $100. Go to Magnaflow's site, go to "universal mufflers" and look around. Get the part number you need and then go web-shopping.
With the mufflers as far back as I have them, along with the H-Pipe and large diameter exhaust pipe, it SHOULD have a deep sound and not a lot of restriction but still enough backpressure to work good.Quote:
Originally Posted by brickman
My next personal test on the chassis dyno is to compare a set of headers with the 4 into 2 into 1 collectors to a set of tri-y headers and adjustable length collector on one of the drag cars. The car's owner and I have a huge bet (coffee and a donut) on which set will have the best numbers on the dyno!!!! Somehow, it makes perfect sense to me to spend $200.00 worth of dyno time to settle a $3.00 bet!!!!!:whacked: :whacked: :whacked: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by halftanked
You bet, there is Hot Rod Rational at it's best, any reason to put a rig on a Dyno will do!! Which side of the bet are you on Dave? I will be using tri-y's on my Mopar so I will be watching this test closely.
Well, my money is on the 4 into 2 into 1 headers... Probably won't be til engine freshening time anyway.
Dave,
You could just put the H pipe where I did - about the only place it would fit without rebulding the entire system from the headers back. My main interest was to take interior drone and sharp sounds away - and if I was lucky and got it somewhere close to the right place, it might give me a bit more torque and maybe a MPG or so better.
Just a note - your cross pipe can be up to ~1/2" smaller in diameter. My head pipes are 2.25", the crossover is 2". This also makes fit up easier.
Great looking chassis IC2, did you silcone chaulk that brake light switch? That is such a bad place for grit and grimm that I have had to replace mine once already. The new one I siliconed around the edge of the meter where the wires attach and it has lasted almost 3 years now.
That setup looks great Dave. Looks like I can make it fit about the same place on mine, should have room under the transmission tailshaft without ending up with the crossover pipe hanging down below the frame rails. These old pickups have some huge frame rails!!! Guess I'm hoping for the same result, a nice mellow tone and whatever torque or efficiency improvements I get will just be a bonus....Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
This Imco exhaust muffler is what i have on my 04 f150 . Click link for sound , muffled a bit from actual . oh turn up volumn also
http://www.grabthepower.com/manager/...d_F150_5-4.mp3
The light switch might get a deflector and dielectric grease but probably no silicone. With as much shiny stuff under (read dum' decision) there I'll probably spend more time then I should cleaning. My history with hydraulic switches dates back a long time with only an occasional and 'normal' failure rate.Quote:
Originally Posted by brickman
Dave,if you look back at 63-64 Galaxies with a 390 or better,they had a crossover in the headpipes stock. I remember them because of their price,and how upset the customer was when he was told what the job would cost. Hank
My recollection (hazy) of my '63 w/406 tri power was that the cross pipe was just behind my 4 spd trans tailshaft - tho my car was an odd ball. It was a late(mfd May '63) '63XL Fastback with an early, non-cross bolted 406 with early 427 long factory cast iron exhaust manifolds - and all OEM.Quote:
Originally Posted by halftanked
Geez, what a full fledged Ford lover won't do to make a buck these days!!!! Here's a nasty old '57 chebbie wagon that I have to do some work on. The stock 283, with the cam protruding out the back of the block, is being replaced with a 327 .030 over and some kind of trick EFI unit that the dude hasn't brought over for me to see yet!!!! But hey, nobody else wanted to do it, and the labor bill should buy some goodies for the Ranchero so what the heck!!!!!
As for the car, the frame is very nice, fenders and quarters (and probably the doors too) are fiberglass glued to some pop riveted patch panels!!!!! Both front floors were repaired in the same fashion. Talk about a project that offers job security!!!!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: Have to meet with the not so proud owner tonight a discuss his options, come up with some sort of plan. Only good news is, he's in it cheap!
Keep the torch in the closet Dave!
I have a question for you guys, everywhere I read the fella's saying" Plan your build" and "Put a rear gear according to the motor" and "Pic a cam for the engine". I would like to know what knid of formula do you all use when putting an engine together for a project. How do I know whats too big of Cam for the head and displacement combo? Things like that, I am wanting to build a screamer for my Dart and I am not sure if my ideas will work.
I cheat....I just fill out one of the Comp Cams or Lunati spec sheets, then call one of the Techs and either get one off the shelf that's close to what I need, or have one built.... Everybody has a different set of rules for cam selection so I just go to the guys that build them for a living... They usually do a heck of a good job.Quote:
Originally Posted by brickman
You need to start with a goal......how much hp and intended use is a good starting point.:D
There is no better way for a daily driver kind of car - and a grocery getter not so clean Chebbie wagon with an unremarkable 327 falls in that category IMO:whacked: . Now, if it was a Nomad........Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Yeah, it will definitely qualify as a daily driver!!!! I guess there wouldn't be a lot of concern if the car got a ding or two!!!! If it were a Nomad....Heck, I would almost like it!!!! Even though it would be just another chebbie!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
I can just see a Tri-Five Nomad now - a nice modular Ford V8 or V10 - and with that nice big engine compartment....**) that used to have that little bitty 283/327........
I can hear the Chebbie freaks now - their screams are penetrating the either now and I don't even need a computer:toocool: :LOL: :LOL:
Yup, that big old Triton V-10 would just slide right in there!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
hey Dave How ya been Oh my you gave me a idea I'm not building cars anymore as a matter of fact Im trying to sell my old truck last one of all my rigs to day I'm building trikes any way I can see a V10 in a three wheeler Oh Boy that would be a lot of fun:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
That's a gonna be one looooooong trike, John!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by john gemmer
yeah But it would be a lot of sh## and get I guess you would have to have a set of brass one to ride it :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Well, it would be fun!!!! Gotta say that! For whatever reason, the V-10's don't even sound like a V-8.
.............and the three valve '05 and newer version sounds even stranger. I've been looking for a cat back system for my truck and the only one recommended so far for a good sound, low cab resonance is a Gale Banks - and it's "bargain priced" at ~$600Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Heck with that, duel turbine helicopter engines! Why mess with earthly power plants! Carefull though, it may burn your leg if your not careful!
Well been lurking and getting some things done . The deck lid had a small tag right where 3 compound curves were ,took some time to get it right sure got scratched up being stacked on . . With the A and everything else in the garage i decided it is time to get the Stang running . This way i can pull it out and turn it around to finish prep work . I need to order brake , fuel and trans lines from classic to get it going . This weekend the trans will go back in after a long 10 years . I stored it full and plan on new seals and fluid , wasn't a leaker when i removed it .
Bobby,Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Just a word of warning - I had stored a C-4 with some fluid as well (not totally full so it could be moved without drooling)for about 10 years as well. I opened it to install a TCI shift kit. The ATF had turned to a varnish like substance which necessitated a full rebuild.
Dave W. Oh boy not good news for me . Hope i get lucky and some fresh before run works it clean . Dont feel like a tear down for cleaning .
Bobby,Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Just dump it, pull the pan and give it a check. If it smells evil but hasn't really gone gummy yet then you might be lucky with a good flush - hope so for your sake as it was he!! to clean up. Even if you have to pull the valve body apart for a full cleanup(and TCI/B&M shift kit??), it might be well worth it. If I had some pictures I'd post 'em of what I found, but it wasn't pretty.
Looks like thats whats in store pan will come off today . If i remember right fluid was dark but it wasn't burn't when i pulled it . Other then the valve body not much the the goop will stick is there . Never was a trans guy other then knowing to keep fluids up in them .
If it is indeed a C4 then it's simple. Eleven bolts pull the pan, another half dozen or so pull the valve body. You get all the gaskets with a shift improver kit - B&M have better instructions then TCI. When you have that apart, you flush with a good and clean solvent then reverse the process. You also have to dump the old stuff out of the torque converter - and there are two pipe plugs to open. when it's empty, put the plugs back, dump in a quart for a "prime" and you are ready to go. If it's cruddy, put a clean quart in it, slosh around, then dump again. It will then be reasonably clean. The only thing you have to watch out for is that you get the smaller, internal input shaft in correctly - there is a difference in spline length. The shorter spline goes inside the tranmission, the long, into the converter. There are a couple of internal links from the outside shift arm that need to be aligned to the valve body, but just watch how you take it apart. Not exactly a no brainer, but nearly so.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Always dump the converter fluid - if you don't you might as well not put fresh fluid in it as it will contaminate any new fluid at first start. If you get in "trouble" a PM or another thread will get you help from me, Dave S or Denny ((sorry guys, but I know you are 'intimate' with Fords as well:eek: ))
Be careful of what fluid you buy - some WILL NOT work in a C4. Type F or FA are the recommended fluids. Others will also work, but not sure which as I use the FA.
Have fun:D :D
Its the original trans in the car a C4 cruise o matic as ford called it . Looking for the container of the bellhousing and torque convertor bolts, left it still together today . Did check the fluid and its still nice and red not as dark as i remember. I'm going to sell this Cpe so no shift kit for it i just want it to go as it did before i pulled it.
Im glad i read about the fluid though i bought a syth. mercon . Glad i didn't use it.