Getting close Bobby. Got to find the time to get the box finished up now...
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Getting close Bobby. Got to find the time to get the box finished up now...
To change the subject after that neat dash Dave has almost finished, I am attaching a picture from the CARnut site (before they locked their pictures) showing a very neat set of "windows" on a '29 roadster. I am about to drill holes in '29 roadster stanchions and I am reluctant to drill any more than for windwings so I would like to neglect all those bristling studs needed to attach side curtains. My inclination is to just drill holes for the windwings and get the rest of the car finished before worrying about side curtains with the option to drill the small holes for the studs later. The '29 shown seems to have plastic windows that extend all the way back so I wonder how the doors can be opened with these in place? Still the setup looks really neat and much better than cloth side curtains. About a year ago someone on this forum said they knew the owner of this roadster. Can anyone remember so maybe we could get the owner to send a photo of the side window installation?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
I finally got some color going on mine today - '07/'09 Ford Valencia Orange (it's a screamer color !!). It isn't cut or buffed yet - still fresh and soft - hmmmmm.
I had put some of the paint I was originally going to use on the inside of my hood panels - great color if you like river bottom mud with some metallic:eek:
Dang nice color Dave. Are you going to use an accent color with it, or going monochromatic?????
IC2, Nice smooth coverage, but will it glow in the dark? Almost! Orange was my choice too but the wife said no to orange and lack of fenders so I ended up with metallic-wine-maroon but I like it. Maybe you could give a hint as to your plans for side curtain or other windows? It looks like your tank is a '32-type on the outside. I certainly agree that is a lot better than saddle tanks, at least for my rough driveway. Sorry to bother you guys but I am trying to psych myself back to work after a layoff so here is my internal "rumble seat tank". No need for paint since the whole tank is stainless but I will cover it with some sort of carpet. The picture is a little dark but I made a cardboard mockup and Rock Valley welded it up out of heavy duty stainless. IC2 I have missed a lot of your progress, how are you hanging the rear bumper? Does Brookville have an adapter for the rear tank or it is from somewhere else?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Dave S,
I had some problem when I first saw the color in the can, but on - love it. The jury is out on any accent color but will probably paint the beltline accent a nice contrasting color. Might even do the fenders another color eventually, but that's later.
A note of warning - some of my Rage Gold came from a late 2005, early 2006 bad batch and I do have some cracking (only one was painted, and has to be repaired). Hopefully you don't have any of this stuff as it was a nation wide problem for bodyshops
Don S.
The color was my wife's choice - tho she now wonders why!!
The top is a custom cover that moves the side of it to just behind the door opening to eliminate seeing the irons and having the conventional 2 piece side curtains. The side curtains are zippered in place on the canvas and snapped at the door. They will need some further work for ease of access. I used LeBaron Bonney irons. Unfortunately, I forgot my camera the day I picked the body up so don't have photos yet. It kinda looks like a Bop Top.
I do like your tank though I did decide early on that I really didn't want gas "in the car" with me. This left me with either the plastic saddle tanks or adapting the '32 style to my A frame. Dagle's shop in CA, make a kit but didn't have one for a new style TCI chassis so I did my own design using a pair of shortened 24" frame horn repair pieces, a SS spreader bar, a pair of frame horn covers and about 30 feet of 1.5" x 3" rectangular tubing (and about 100 hours of labor). As far as rear bumper - TBD but a '32 rear will work with my modified frame. The attached photos are mediocre, but do show in general the mods
The frame mods look great, Dave, and that deuce tank really adds a nice touch to the back of the car! Super nice work!!!!!
As for the color, good to see someone stepping away from the norm on roadsters and going with something unique. I'm still kind of a red-aholic, but trying to break away from it.... Uncle Bob sez he was starting a 12 step program for us red-aholics but as yet he hasn't told me when the meetings are!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: Maybe if I had a better eye for color I would be more daring..... Last time I picked colors other then red, my friends came over and took away all my paint chip books and told me to let them know when I needed paint and they'd go pick it out for me!!!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: On my old pickup I got really brave and made it a two-tone, but of course the accent color had to be red!!!!!!!!! I can come up with all the wild frame, suspension, and sheet metal mods, but when it comes to color I usually just put it up for a vote and go with the majority opinion......:( :(
The scheduling of the Procrastinators Club meetings has gotten in the way.......................I'll let you know later.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
:D
Thanks for the good words Dave.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
The Deuce tank seemed to be the only way - with the Tank's Inc 6 gollon plastics the only other alternative and to keep some trunk space (sorry Don).
Thos plastic tanks hang too low in the front, at or below the scrub line and didn't seem safe. At least if you get hit in the back and there is a fire, you have some chance of survival. If you get hit in the side, one of you might not make it out.
It took lots of counselling for me to break away from red as well. I still have relapses but have a semi-understanding wife(with her second red car in a row) who tends to keep me on a reasonably straight path. She was actually the one that picked the color though I did find one called Orange Crush - but it had too much pearl for a first time user (and was $200 more a gallon??).
Bob, I'm concerned that the Procrastinator's group took priority over Dave S's counselling. I know, someday.......**) **) :LOL:
Dave W the color is great i was at the car nut yesterday and not many of this shade and the one's i'd seen did catch my eye for a longer look. Pics never bring it out right with lights and flash going on upclose i bet its a sharp color .
The tank placement is a real headache , i too decided inside passenger compartment is out .
The color is bright and I'm sure there will be some comments, good and otherwise!!Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Here ya go with a tank kit for your 'A'
http://www.dagelsstreetrods.com/gas%20tank%20kits.htm
I see they now have one for my chassis - oh well
Dave W i have looked at this as a great way to fill the open void between the rear fenders also . Sedans are just to open in the rear and do need some type of filler .
Ok Uncle Bob..... Guess I'll just call you if you have any questions....Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Never put off til tomorrow what you can ignore indefinitely....
I think it would look great on your sedan, Bobby. Now if you'd just sell me one of them Mustangs at a huge loss, you could buy it!!!! Man, I like my ideas!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Dave S. hhmm gas tank or Mustang , sedans not to heavy to push around LOL . I wonder what neighbor would be willing . I can still make the vvrroooommm sounds :D
Bobby,Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Somewhere in my picture files I do have a picture of an A sedan with the '32
style gas tank. I probably was a film photo and not on a digital/CD. But I do have one of an A with a filler piece - attached - and will take a look later on at some of my film photos for the other.
There is one '31 A sedan that does have an OEM filler that looks nice, but I suspect it is less scarce the the proverbial hens teeth. That was the '31 Slant windshield Fordor - they made only 12,000 of them:eek: .
Here ya go, a '29 and a '31;
And I found one
Dave W and Bob thanks for some eye candy . I do like the gas tank better then the filler . Gas tank seems to give it a more ERA period correct look .
I thought of saddles and if i remember right the cost is about the same for both .
Just came in from garage DA'd the left side down ,been in primer along time and recoated it . The older primer sure faded a bit.
Dave S you keep bending me i may break . LOL I try and keep with rule never sell a aquaintence a car . Dave your quailty and mine i'm sure do not match i do use the words out of sight out of mind and close enough in my work . But i do like em smooth and shiny too.
Dave W ( its a wonderfull life ) is your saying i see. Hope Brent gets it corrected i know how you feel .
Bobby,Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
The only reason I care is that I lost my list of subscribed threads and my original anonymous name. It does seem that those who "know me" have figured out who I am and still are taking an occasional pot shot, but - what goes around............
Just a word of warning - the '32 tank system is more expensive, especially if you factor in a significant amount of labor to modify the frame. The frame horn covers were crapola (Vintique) and had to be totally reconfigured - probably 20 hours worth just to make them look right. The fiberglass pieces that I've seen look much better. I believe that I do have more pictures of what I did but need to be scanned - that is, if I can find them!!!
An additional related note, those not familiar with the original configuration wouldn't realize at first glance, but the fitment of the tank and rail covers on the light grey car I posted is exquisite. There are gangs of hours to reshape the covers and make the tank to body fit as good as it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
I wonder if they were 'home made' as they are configured completely different then the OEM's. They are nice. The car that I pictured seems to have the OEM style which I started with. Either way - lots of work to make them fit correctly and look nice. Mine being a roadster, hang out in the breeze with the shorter body.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Well the '32 tanks do look great and I guess I was not aware of where to get them when I worked out the rumble-seat tank. And yes the space underneath is a big gap. In my career I have always suffered from being slightly out of step and so I also put the battery down there. At present it does not look good and I am considering ways to cover the battery. There are shiny battery covers but that just calls attention to the misplaced battery. I do have a roll pan but it would have to be hinged to allow battery access so it sits in a corner unpainted. Frankly I will just be glad if I ever get this car to run, but we all know that rodding has a lot of opinions as to what looks "right" and I suppose I am going to end up with a shiny one-of-a-kind but as I said at this point I just want to get it together and running and I can only do what I can do. I also prefer not to cover up the neat rear coil springs. There are several options. 1. add a black battery cover and make it look like a missing tooth with all black across the rear. 2. add a shiny battery cover in an attempt to just add more shiny surface. 3. paint a battery cover the body color. I kind of favor item 3 but with the bumper all the way across maybe the shiny battery cover would work? At this point I know it will still be less than perfect but I can always add a fox tail and just enjoy riding in a "jalopy" which is nostalgic for me. Any other ideas on how to fix this particular gap?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don thought here how about making a battery holder that drops down in a channell of some type with pins holding it up . Pain i know to crawl underneath to access it but that places rear pan in . I cant see how far off the ground you are but you might not need to much to reach batt.
Camoflage;
Ireland if we all add up our labor and then devide profit we probably make about 13 cents a hour total . In my case i would just chalk it up to a good fab experience and education . Do like doing those things so i wouldn't be concerned to much about labor just the fun .
Don,Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
At this point on your car, to add a '32 style tank would be a big undertaking that would, in my humble opinion not have any real aesthetic/mechanical payback. I only found out about it by seeing a car at a show with the mod - then went back and found a Street Rodder article. While it can be done with the body in place, much more sucessful assembly and welds can be made with it off and the chassis at stripped so it can be accessed from all directions - including turning it over. I, like most occasional welders, don't do well with overhead welds. See the picture ('nother one)
(Please note - I cleaned my shop that day for pictures - that ain't necessarily the normal condition)
I like the idea of the rolled pan and a shiny battery box - there are several drop down designs commercially available. The rolled pan will give it a finished look and a lot of your fancy shocks will still be seen and shine right next to the suspension. Then the Lone Wolf plate..... I'm hiding most of my rear TCI Chrome and SS pieces with a tank and fenders.
Here is what i thought was a kit for about the same cost as saddle . Confusing add though they show covers in pic but add i dont think includes them .
http://www.tperformance.com/street_r...932_fuel_tank/
Two good ideas. Actually I am already on the second set of holes for the battery box having lowered it for clamp clearance, but Bob's idea might be the easiest. Actually some sort of less-than-shiny battery cover with a suitable agnostic verse as Bob suggests might be the best idea. Maybe with this help I can end up with something that looks less bad after all. Thanks! Just for the record the internal rumble seat tank cost about $600 from Rock Valley and I went to one gauge thicker than their usual tank, all for added protection from a rear end collision. Still the pictures above show that the Model A gap can be filled very nicely with the '32 style tank.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
While Dave has shown that it can be done at home, for those that might be interested there is also a "pre-fabbed" version available;
http://www.dagelsstreetrods.com/gas%20tank%20kits.htm
Bob,
I copied, in a general sense the Dagle setup - as noted in my earlier post. They just didn't have one for the "new" design TCI frame at the time so I got my welder, tape measure and sawzall out and got 'creative'.
Bobby,
You have to sometimes read between the lines with Total Performance - personal experience. They also can be 'a price leader':whacked:
I listed the individual pieces, again in my earlier post. If you do go this way, I suggest that you get either a 12 gal OEM repro or the 15 gallon version. The 17 gallon version gave me some ground clearance problems(1.5" lower) and I had to exchange it for the 15. If you are using horn covers, that, IMO, the 15 gal is the best way to go - who cares what the sides of the tank look like - they're covered. You want 3-4 more gallons of capacity. The frame horn repair sections are also too long and need to be modified for length. I should have my tank in the frame in a few days - it's painted but needs cutting and buffing first. I'll take a bunch more pictures and put them in a folder.
Ireland like you i think i'll do my own frame work . You pic has given me ideas to mod for my frame set up . I seen a great article on making your own frame horns and not to complicated so i will save a few more dollars . Thanks for all this info and please post more pics of it when you take them .
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
The 10ga repair frame horns are cheap ($50-$60) - but the rest of the mod parts tend to get up in price.
Well, I wasted some more time on my pickup. Decide I should have an H-pipe in my exhaust. I'm building the whole exhaust system out of some mandrel bends and straight pieces of aluminized 2 1/2" tubing. Well, I looked at a few sources and decided that $100.00+ was waaaaay to much to pay for an H-Pipe. I got out my trusty 2 1/2" whole saw and made up some really low buck fixtures and here's the results. I have a total of about 3 hours of my time, including coffee breaks and time spent playing with the dog along with some leftover pieces of tubing that were laying on the floor by the bench.... Oh yeah, they're easy to build, but don't let some half blind old geezer like me do the welding on them!!!!! Mig welding by the Braille method is really tough!!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Now when I get the rest of the system installed, all I have to do is determine the length of the tubing that goes between the two "T" pieces, cut it to length and weld it in. No idea if it will make much noticeable improvement in power or sound, but it was something to kill a few hours with on a Friday afternoon in the shop!!!!
Don't laugh at my welds, someday you'll be a half blind geezer, too!!!!!!!
out of site out of mind , and nothing that can't be cleaned up Dave . If it weren't for grinding wheels i'd be in alot of trouble . I would weld till i know there not going to leak . How many pounds is this roll of wire again.
MIG = MY ITS GLOPPY
And I thought I was the only one that made pigeon dropping MIG welds on H pipes:LOL: :LOL:
(I'm even older and blinder then Dave S )
Explain again the benefit of all this labor on this pipe for your trk Dave? I am just curious what this pipe does, no offense intended.
It is supposed to help even out the flow in the exhaust and allegedly improve the torque. Don't know, never ran one before. Just thought I'd give it a try....
Never had one before, do they actually help with the torque, too????? Or just make them sound nice? Either is fine with me, I guess but both would be great!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW