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Oooohhhhhhhhhhh nooooooooooooo :CRY:
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Brickman, my buddy is going to disagree with me on this but I would not cut half rungs off the springs. If you measure the full lenght of the spring and then measure the spring lessl 1 rung or 2 you should come real close to knowing how much You will lower it. Their is a pocket in the upper and lower control arm where the spring sets. I would cut the spring with a cutoff wheel and not a torch. I suppose if You did cut a half rung off it would still lock in the pocket on the lower control arm but if thats all thats needed why did the factory put the pocket in the upper control arm? If You do use any heat with a torch be very careful .It can get away from You real fast and then ride like a dumptruck. I cut 1 rung off all 4 of my springs but have not put the chassis back under the car yet. I feel like with my situation it will drop me down 1&3/4 to 2 inches. Yours could be totally different.Good Luck!
It seems to make alot of sense to me riverhorse, the truck does have pronounced perches for the springs. I am thinking I may cut just one rung, the springs are very large and one well probly drop it three inches. That should be plenty to get the look I am after, later on in the year it is going to get tubbed and 4-linked.
Increase the rate huh Tech? Would that make it stiffer than stock? I can handle that, the big block makes it dive under hard braking now as it is. I have a 1 1/4'' front sway bar for it also. It's all kind of my first attempt at a pro street transformation. Any help is apreciated.
I lowered a Galaxie ('64 if I remember right) with a torch and a tape measure many years ago. Just heated the coils near the bottom and let the weight of the car drop 'em. Heat then measure repeat as ness. to get it even.
Hey ................ I wuz' just a kid ................... what did I know. Ride stiffened up some, but it looked kewl............... HEHEHE:3dSMILE: :3dSMILE: :HMMM:
done that a lot of times when in herry. if you put a block of wood under each conner of the chasses, however low you wont it to go, (like 4" off of the floor) heat the springs untill the car sits down on the blocks then waite until the springs cools off, then take the blocks out, the car will stay the height off of the floor as the blocks was. :HMMM: :cool:Quote:
Originally posted by pro70z28
I lowered a Galaxie ('64 if I remember right) with a torch and a tape measure many years ago. Just heated the coils near the bottom and let the weight of the car drop 'em. Heat then measure repeat as ness. to get it even.
Hey ................ I wuz' just a kid ................... what did I know. Ride stiffened up some, but it looked kewl............... HEHEHE:3dSMILE: :3dSMILE: :HMMM:
That almost sounds TOO easy!:D I like easy though! To just heat the springs is ovious that they will loose some tension and it is sure alot easier than taking the front end apart, cutting the coils and putting it all back together. Save alot as in hours of work, I will try it, the worst that can happen is that I will have to change the springs if they get ruined. Thanks pro and lt1s10, that is great advice. I will let you know how it turns out.
about 2 " is all you need to drop it though because by leaving all of the spring there it dont have as much travel as it would have if you cut it. drop it 2" first and then look at it and use the blocks. if you dont you cant control how low the springs go :HMMM:Quote:
Originally posted by brickman
That almost sounds TOO easy!:D I like easy though! To just heat the springs is ovious that they will loose some tension and it is sure alot easier than taking the front end apart, cutting the coils and putting it all back together. Save alot as in hours of work, I will try it, the worst that can happen is that I will have to change the springs if they get ruined. Thanks pro and lt1s10, that is great advice. I will let you know how it turns out.
And brickman I'm sure you already know this but be sure to heat a coil down @ the bottom, not in the middle of the spring. Sounds elementary I know, but I've learned to never take basic things for granted. ALWAYS gets me in trouble when i do.
Problee' won't find this technique in any dealer bulletins. HEHEHE:LOL: :LOL:
i thought i read that in a GM serv. manual somewhere. :confused:Quote:
Originally posted by pro70z28
And brickman I'm sure you already know this but be sure to heat a coil down @ the bottom, not in the middle of the spring. Sounds elementary I know, but I've learned to never take basic things for granted. ALWAYS gets me in trouble when i do.
Problee' won't find this technique in any dealer bulletins. HEHEHE:LOL: :LOL:
I lowered a 47 Merc coupe that way. Heated the ends of the main leaf and reversed the spring eyes. It melted the bushings but they're cheaper than a dropped axle.
I got the engine painted and installed in the Stang before I went on vacation. Took a picture today but everything is dusty. I don't know why the shock tower looks silver in the picture it's really semi gloss black like the other side. That isn't paint on the fuel pump either. It must be the flash playing tricks.
I need another hood for the Stang. Mine was bent when one of the hinges froze. I straghtened it out and reinforced the bottom. I thought I did a good job with the bodywork. You can't see where it was bent but when I put it on there was a 1/2 inch gap on that side near the fender. It's good swap meet material. I wanted a fiberglass Shelby GT350 hood anyway.
I think it wuz' on page 387.:)Quote:
Originally posted by lt1s10
i thought i read that in a GM serv. manual somewhere. :confused:
Cool, thanks, I will consult my collection of service manuals!!:D :D :cool:
I will heat them just at the bottom and I will use the blocks. I will post a pic. The motor and new tranny will be going back in tomorrow so the wieght will be back on the springs. I am looking forward to seeing how it's gonna look and handle. If it doesn't work, I can always buy another set and cut them and put them in. Thanks everybody.
if it works i told you how, if it dont work pro70 told you how. :cool: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally posted by brickman
Cool, thanks, I will consult my collection of service manuals!!:D :D :cool:
I will heat them just at the bottom and I will use the blocks. I will post a pic. The motor and new tranny will be going back in tomorrow so the wieght will be back on the springs. I am looking forward to seeing how it's gonna look and handle. If it doesn't work, I can always buy another set and cut them and put them in. Thanks everybody.
Hey.... I just read about it on page 387. HEHEHE:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :whacked:Quote:
Originally posted by lt1s10
if it works i told you how, if it dont work pro70 told you how. :cool: :LOL: :LOL:
results may vary
caution: HOT
take only as directed
read and follow all label directions..............
Good night Mrs. Clahan .......................... wherever you are.:LOL:
show me.:eek: :DQuote:
Originally posted by pro70z28
Hey.... I just read about it on page 387. HEHEHE:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :whacked:
May B it wuz' pg. 389???:DQuote:
Originally posted by lt1s10
show me.:eek: :D
I have not kept up with this thread and am only replying to Richard (Tech1) regarding the very yellow '29 roadster on the previous page. Brickman mentions more than one project, my other project is a Florida room for my wife; will it ever be finished? Next is the sheet rock which looks like a lot of fun! Still I did receive my Cobra radiator this morning. I have decided to use the cheaper '29 radiator shell with a stock hood (4 piece) but I plan on the chrome shell with a fake cap at the top with a chrome quail ornament for a RestoRod look. The yellow'29 has the nice nerf bars on the front and maybe that is something I should consider. At the moment I am favoring a dark metallic red with chrome radiator shell, chrome taillight brackets and a tan top. I have also seen some neat running boards made out of diamond plate. Does anyone know where to buy shiny aluminum diamond plate? At the moment I am thinking of buying one of those pickup truck bed tool boxes and cutting pieces out of it for partial running board step plates, maybe long teardrop shaped plates. Anyway I am making some progress and the weather has been very good this week so maybe I will be able to put a lot of time on the car soon.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
If there is a steel supply store in your area they should have it, or be able to order it.Quote:
Originally posted by Don Shillady
Does anyone know where to buy shiny aluminum diamond plate?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
glade to hear somebody is getting something done don. im backing up. me and pro70 just shooting the breeze about nothing. he should be working on his car.:HMMM: :LOL:Quote:
Originally posted by Don Shillady
I have not kept up with this thread and am only replying to Richard (Tech1) regarding the very yellow '29 roadster on the previous page. Brickman mentions more than one project, my other project is a Florida room for my wife; will it ever be finished? Next is the sheet rock which looks like a lot of fun! Still I did receive my Cobra radiator this morning. I have decided to use the cheaper '29 radiator shell with a stock hood (4 piece) but I plan on the chrome shell with a fake cap at the top with a chrome quail ornament for a RestoRod look. The yellow'29 has the nice nerf bars on the front and maybe that is something I should consider. At the moment I am favoring a dark metallic red with chrome radiator shell, chrome taillight brackets and a tan top. I have also seen some neat running boards made out of diamond plate. Does anyone know where to buy shiny aluminum diamond plate? At the moment I am thinking of buying one of those pickup truck bed tool boxes and cutting pieces out of it for partial running board step plates, maybe long teardrop shaped plates. Anyway I am making some progress and the weather has been very good this week so maybe I will be able to put a lot of time on the car soon.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Quote:
Originally posted by pro70z28
If there is a steel supply store in your area they should have it, or be able to order it.
if richmond dont have it then you cant get it. :cool:
I got the motor plate tabs fitted in place last night ............. Didn't get done with work 'til about 9pm tonight, so I said ...."[rcgjicfj"..... on goin' out there tonight. I'll just talk to lt1s10 and read my shop manual instead. HEHEHE:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
But I think I'm gonna hit the sack ..................... there's more to do tomorrow. ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ:)
you need to read that book. id like to go to bed, but i have to do a breathing thing at 1:00 so its no need.Quote:
Originally posted by pro70z28
I got the motor plate tabs fitted in place last night ............. Didn't get done with work 'til about 9pm tonight, so I said ...."[rcgjicfj"..... on goin' out there tonight. I'll just talk to lt1s10 and read my shop manual instead. HEHEHE:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
But I think I'm gonna hit the sack ..................... there's more to do tomorrow. ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ:)
:rolleyes: :(
It is easy. I did it that way too , When I was 15. Looked good , Rode bad, Very bad. Tried it again about 10 years ago on a chevy short bed. Ended up buying new springs for a 6 cylinder and cutting one coil out. That put it down where I wanted it and rode good too.A little work made me :LOL:
you didnt know how to do it then. the black el camino was that away and that drove like a caddy. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally posted by riverhorse59
It is easy. I did it that way too , When I was 15. Looked good , Rode bad, Very bad. Tried it again about 10 years ago on a chevy short bed. Ended up buying new springs for a 6 cylinder and cutting one coil out. That put it down where I wanted it and rode good too.A little work made me :LOL:
I know that you are going to be right about the ride riverhorse but this truck is just for running with our local car club untill my '48 is done. Then I can give it the full monty, but right now anything I spend on this truck comes right out of my chevys cookie jar and that isn't setting well. But spring is almost here and I have to have a cruizer running!:D
Pro70, I have to ask a dumb question, what is the purpose of the two aluminum plates you are installing?
Hey Don, How are you doing? Got any new pic's of your rod?
The front plate is a motor plate. It supports the front of the motor (Motor Mount). It also acts as a cross member to support the frame rails. And it supports the strut mount tube. And, you can't see it in this pic., but behind the pipe clamp the motor plate extends down along side the lower strut tube brackets and is bolted to tabs there too, to add support to those brackets. So I guess it's a multi-purpose plate.Quote:
Originally posted by brickman
Pro70, I have to ask a dumb question, what is the purpose of the two aluminum plates you are installing?
The other plate is called a mid plate (Between the trans. and the block). That plate supports the back of the engine and the trans. and also doubles as a cross member. And I suppose it could be useful to stop fling parts in the event of a "Kaboom Event". HEHEHE
When using a mid plate "In this case 1/4") thick, it's a good idea to have the converter built to compensate for the mid plate. (Weld flex plate mounting tabs 1/4" forward from stock).
Brickman, nice to hear from you. My most recent pictures were posted on a thread called "I ain't go no body" about a month ago. Since that time I have purchased a HEI distributor from Summit and a Cobra radiator from Brookville. I should have posted on this thread but at that time I was pretty excited about a spurt of progress and also had to learn about posting pictures. To look at it's just a frame on wheels with drive line installed but now I have a 700R4 and new 3.55 gears in the rear. I am still learning a lot from other builders on this Forum and appreciate the help, but I probably won't have a body until late Spring and I hope to get the body on and the engine running by the end of the Summer. I am on a monthly budget so that is the throttle on my progress, but after I get a Lokar shifter and parking brake I should be ready for the body and I will probably get a Bebops 'glass body. Yesterday we heard the "peeper frogs" for the first time this year and that is a sign of Spring here so I should be able to get more garage time soon.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
[QUOTE]Originally posted by brickman
[B]I know that you are going to be right about the ride riverhorse but this truck is just for running with our local car club untill my '48 is done. Then I can give it the full monty, but right now anything I spend on this truck comes right out of my chevys cookie jar and that isn't setting well. But spring is almost here and I have to have a cruizer running!:D
brickman, if you take your time and use the blocks the springs will work just fine. my cars drove good or i wouldn't have owned them. some body need to explain to me what the dif is in heating the springs or cutting the springs to lower them. if you do it right there is no dif. :confused:
ps- heat the springs at the bottom about where you would cut it, if you dont it will ride bad.:HMMM:
Same to you Don and the rod is coming along nicely, well done. I never had a doubt.:D
Thanks for the advice lt1s10, I will do everything this weekend. I have the engine detailed and back in now. It's just a matter of getting the engine bolted back in, hooking everything up, and then I will be lowering it. I should be driving it sunday if everything goes right. I am really looking forward to getting it lowered, I love that attitude it gives a truck. Anyway, thanks.
it will work fine prove riverhoese wrong**) **)
Quote:
Originally posted by lt1s10
it will work fine prove riverhoese wrong**) **)
..................and if doesn't work, talk to lt1s10 .................HEHEHE:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
ill go up there and make it work:HMMM: :LOL:Quote:
Originally posted by pro70z28
..................and if doesn't work, talk to lt1s10 .................HEHEHE:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
I like that attitude lt1s10, never surrender!!:D
I have most of the engine compartment done, recieved some company and had to call it a day, so the underneath is next and then the lowering. So you have a couple of days off!:p :D :3dSMILE:
I also had a bodyman friend of mine come out and look at my '48 and it looks like I may be getting off the hook having to do the painting!!! Halayluya! :D Thats a great load removed from my shoulders, work will start as soon as the truck gets out of the way.
That is a very cool way to make everything strong Pro70, and very clean looking too. I suppose alot of special things go into that tube frame huh? Very cool man.:D
Quote:
Originally posted by brickman
I like that attitude lt1s10, never surrender!!:D
I have most of the engine compartment done, recieved some company and had to call it a day, so the underneath is next and then the lowering. So you have a couple of days off!:p :D :3dSMILE:
I also had a bodyman friend of mine come out and look at my '48 and it looks like I may be getting off the hook having to do the painting!!! Halayluya! :D Thats a great load removed from my shoulders, work will start as soon as the truck gets out of the way.
That is a very cool way to make everything strong Pro70, and very clean looking too. I suppose alot of special things go into that tube frame huh? Very cool man.:D
"never surrender" thats my motto. sure do get me in a lot of trouble though. :CRY:
Got the funny car cage all tacked together. Got the diagonal braces tacked in, floor "X" brace and ''outer'' forward cross member braces tacked in.Quote:
Originally posted by brickman
That is a very cool way to make everything strong Pro70, and very clean looking too. I suppose alot of special things go into that tube frame huh? Very cool man.:D
Oh ........... and the lower dash bar too. That's about it for this week
What a maze Pro70!! You should be safe inside that cage. That baby is going to be a rush to drive when it's done!
Quote:
Originally posted by pro70z28
Got the funny car cage all tacked together. Got the diagonal braces tacked in, floor "X" brace and ''outer'' forward cross member braces tacked in.
Oh ........... and the lower dash bar too. That's about it for this week
you gonna need a "pipe map" to get in and out. you could get lost in that thing. :LOL:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by lt1s10 B]it will work fine prove riverhoese wrong**) **)
Well Mike, I'm just a simple guy that knows a little about a lot of things, And not a lot about anything. I have been proven wrong many times before and that doesn't bother me. At least I can say
learned something from the experience and Im not afraid to say, I'm sorry, I was wrong. We do have some scientist and engineers here that may be able to teach us something about temper of the steel. I do not believe You can heat those springs enough to make them colapse with out effecting the temper, therefore you will be adversely affecting the ride. When I cut off a rung of a spring with a cutoff wheel I am not effecting the temper of the steel. Because I have reduced the overall lenght of the spring, I am making it a little stiffer.I am not smart enough to compute exactly how much stiffer but I think I can get real close.
SO, Here is Your challenge. PROVE ME WRONG. Either way, We'll all learn something.:whacked: :whacked:
My theory has been that when you heat a coil and it collapses on itself, that point becomes the end of the spring (as far as load is concerned). so heating the spring doesn't really weaken the spring just makes it shorter. So heating the spring or cutting the spring has the same effect.
However, cutting the spring may give you ''slightly'' more travel because your removing some of the spring allowing ''slightly'' more clearance. As opposed to heating the spring where the "dead" part of the spring stays in the spring perch taking up ''spring travel'' space.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by riverhorse59
its gonna make the spring stiffer any time you shorten it either cutting it or heating it . when i heat a spring i go up the ring to where i would have cut it and only heat about 1 " of the spring and that part will sat down on the ring below it and that's all it is to it. I've laid wet rags, used dif. things on the upper part of the springs to help keep it cool, but if i hadn't no longer than it took to heat a 1" or so of the spring , what ever dif it may have made you couldn't have felt it in the car no way. i gonna say the dif in the heated spring(the way i did it )and the cut spring wont enough dif. to compute. you put a reg. 350 in your car i had a 454 with a 671 blower on it in mine(i needed a stiffer spring) so with stock springs it probably put my car right where i wanted it and your car with cut springs made it to stiff. you are not comparing apples with apples and i sure don't need a scientist or engineer to tell me how to lower my car. it did what i wonted it to do and that all that counts. sound like you might need that help though. :rolleyes: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally posted by lt1s10 B]it will work fine prove riverhoese wrong**) **)
Well Mike, I'm just a simple guy that knows a little about a lot of things, And not a lot about anything. I have been proven wrong many times before and that doesn't bother me. At least I can say
learned something from the experience and Im not afraid to say, I'm sorry, I was wrong. We do have some scientist and engineers here that may be able to teach us something about temper of the steel. I do not believe You can heat those springs enough to make them colapse with out effecting the temper, therefore you will be adversely affecting the ride. When I cut off a rung of a spring with a cutoff wheel I am not effecting the temper of the steel. Because I have reduced the overall lenght of the spring, I am making it a little stiffer.I am not smart enough to compute exactly how much stiffer but I think I can get real close.
SO, Here is Your challenge. PROVE ME WRONG. Either way, We'll all learn something.:whacked: :whacked: