Hey Robert, I agree with the "blingy" part but I'll reserve judgment on the size till I see a pic of the whole car....:)Quote:
Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
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Hey Robert, I agree with the "blingy" part but I'll reserve judgment on the size till I see a pic of the whole car....:)Quote:
Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
fair enough..I have 19's on my '06 GTO and I think they are the biggest that looks good my car. As it is the 19's ride a bit rough I can only imagine what those 22's (?) feel like!
I like the truck Gary...more and more I think my next one will be a chopped and channeled pickup.
I have a fuel door I just haven't buffed it out yet. I still have quite a bit of polishing to do actually.Quote:
Looking good Mr. Smith! Is there a fuel door or is that an exposed cap resessed in?
thought I would throw in a better pic of my grille too. I think it may have looked better with semi gloss but it's too late now.
Not sure what I am going to do with the stainless hood side trim now. I think I may have to paint them black to go with the rest of the car.
How do you guys put text between your posted pics?
If the T Bird had different style of wheels I thing the 22's would look fine. But then my nephews came over and loved them. The car needs complete restoration.
Personally, I think "stainless" is kinda neutral and would be a nice accent between the red & black. You only have the trim pieces for the hood and the grill that are stainless, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Smith
I agree. These rims look a little too "gangsta" for me but the size kinda works on the car. 20's could work nicely too. The 4door with the suicide doors could make a cool cruizer if done right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Smith
Bob does this car by chance have air bag suspension? The reason I ask is some years back my dad had one that he started to have work done too in Arizona and the bags were one thing that I can remember from pics he sent me. I believe it was in black primer when he traded it for 56 chev delivery wagon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
hope you can get past the bitterness of your 36. These things are enough work without something like that hanging over you every time you try working on them.
I am not going to put any trim around my grille so the only stainless would be on the hood sides. Soon I will have to tape them on to see what they would look like.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Yeah, especially if you wear a wide brim hat with a feather, and have huge gold rings on every finger of your hand.:3dSMILE:Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
No, it has typical coil overs in the back. I've been saved! The seller worked hard, even bombed the price another couple grand, but I just don't have the room, so now some guy in Portland has bought it. Maybe he'll get it done finally...........or maybe in a couple more years it will pop up again to tempt me.:whacked:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Smith
Yeah, I'll get back on it hard again some day, but in order to fix the biggest problem I've got to do a body removal AGAIN which I just hate with finished paint work done.
Being able to make comments between pictures is done by using photo links (such as photobucket or the like) and typing comments between the links.
As for the trim on the hood, if it were mine I'd paint the strips body color. That would give texture without distracting. To my eye both the black and the polished stainless would pop out too much interupting the visual flow by stopping the eye. At the front or on the bottom the black works because it forms a visual frame on the perimeter, but in the "middle" of the body they're a disruptor.
I don't know if I would have ever thought about painting them the body color. Thanks Bob.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Bob, how did you know that was my favorite attire???:cool::cool: NOT! :eek::D:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Yeah, I like that idea, too!:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Hey guys, what heat/air unit is everyone using these days? I am upgrading my 48' sedan and wanting a good unit for her.
I used Vintage Air. Works great, not that difficult to install or wire.
I used Old Air. Their unit is a lot more compact than any other I found.http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/index.phpQuote:
Originally Posted by brickman
Got my bumpers and lights on. Hit a real snag with my brake lights. It turns out that the steering column I used has a separate circuit for the brake lights and turn signals. and with my tail lights I have no way to separate them. So I just ordered a long 3rd brake light from Watson's that has sequential turn signals on the outside and the brake light in the middle. The only reason I went with that column was to save money but this just messed that up.
Wow that thing looks finished sitting there! What size tail light did you go with again? Mine are the 12" and it is actually two strips of LEDs tied together. The top 4" or so for turn signals, but I suppose you either don't have LEDs or have a smaller, single LED strip.
Well that figures. Mine are 9" with only one LED strip. I thought about putting another strip in but I don't think it would make a good separation when the blinkers and brakes would be on at the same time.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
I'm not sure this is an option (especially since you have already bought something else) but in my kit came a small section of wire - two into one. I forget what they called it right now, but both hot wires connect to the "one" and on the "two" end one goes to blinker and the other goes to brake. It seems to me that if they had provided you with those little guys you would be able to wire directionals and brakes seperately. I still have not wired the brake lights (only did the third light and looked at the other two), but I assume the top will blink and with the brakes on the bottom will be solid. In your case with one strip of LEDs I would assume it would be wired the same as mine, but you would have no brake light while a signal is on? I could be wrong...did you try calling hagan to see what your options are?
In order to have the brake lights and blinkers work on the same circuit your blinker switch has to have what is called an interrupter built into it. Most switches have that unless the car is designed to run the brake lights to a separate bulb. In Hagens directions it says that you will need another light if your switch doesn't have an interrupter but I skimmed right over that when I installed mine thinking it did. And of course I didn't start my wiring until after I painted the car. I doubt that yours will separate the blinkers the way you think they will. If they did there would be some sort of gusset in the bucket so the lights wouldn't bleed together.
Well I hope I have an interrupter because I would rather the whole lense light up as one for either signal lights or brakes. If the LED strips work seperately like I was thinking I thought the intensity of the LEDs would prevent the lights from bleeding together as much. Now I'm curious so I'll probably wire them this weekend and see what happens.
Let me know what you find out.
Oh I don't know what type of column you have but if the wires are not marked make sure you find out which blinker wires are designated for the rear otherwise they won't work right.
I am happy to say I got the tail lights wired with no issue. I wired the Hi/Lo module Hagan sent into the tail light and turn signal wires, temporarily twisted the front turn signal wires together and it all worked well. The whole lense blinks, but what I forgot to double check is what happens with the brakes and blinker on :HMMM:. I can assume what will happen, but I would be wrong. Mr Smith did you see turn signals at all, was it only a problem with brakes on? I think I will be ok, but wish I had thought to check with all my front wires temporarily twisted up.
I forgot to wire in the license plate light. Would that just be wired in with the tail lights since it should be on when ever the tail lights are?
I got tail lights and blinkers but my brake lights wouldn't go through the same circuit. I even called ford and they said they need to be on a separate circuit. Yes just tap into a tail light feed for your license plate light and you should be fine. And as long as you didn't mix up the front and back your blinkers should come on with your brakes but it would bug me too that I forgot to check.
Well if I am getting turn signals and brakes it sounds like it will all work fine, but I'll have to wait until I wire the headlights and that isn't on the short list at the moment unless Bob Drake puts their trim rings on sale again or someone else has them for less than $75.
Speaking of headlights what is the best way to wire them so that the buckets can still be removed (for paint later)? Can I use the terminals that will slide in and out from each other or should I cut the wires later and reconnect them?
I didn't wire mine so I could remove them. I did think about it but I figured since it was already painted I wasn't going to worry about it. If I were to wire it for removal I would use those weather pack terminals and of course you will have to put them outside the buckets and may even need to get some that are only two terminals to fit through the mounting holes. You may want to log into ebay and put in a search for headlight rings. and ad them to your favorite searches to be notified is some come for sale.
I have trim rings but they are scratched and have overspray on them. I was thinking about cleaning them up and using them, but I need lense clips and the clips that hold the ring on are a little floppy so I figured I may as well buy them new. I barely missed Bob Drake's sale now I can't bring myself to pay full price :CRY:
No worries, Robert. I'm sure he'll have another sale soon....:DQuote:
Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
I called them to see if they would honor the expired sale price a couple weeks ago and he said no and that they don't put a certain item on sale very often just every now and again when they get overstocked on an item. I believe it too because I've noticed sales they have on a whole bunch of random parts. O well I'll either use the ones I have for now and just buy the clips or suck it up and pay for the new rings to be done with it. I've got plenty more to do to drive though much less worry about seeing at night :LOL:
No I didn't get to work on MY project again this weekend but we did get a bottle tray built for my son's Camaro. Built it out of scrap sign substrate (.080 aluminum).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ottletray2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ottletray1.jpg
He's got to glue the rubber bumper in the bottom for the bottle to rest against, Mount the bottle heater to the tray & then give it a quick polish before final installation.
Looks good Pro, but the bottle??? Drinkin' and drivin' ain't good!:whacked::whacked:
I don't know where this kid gets these crazy ideas.........:LOL:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ottletray3.jpg
I'm fairly sure where he gits his ideas!Quote:
Originally Posted by pro70z28
I'm still working on the 87 Firebird,This car went from being turbo charged, to dual quad na, guess with two carbs on line, I will be first in line at the pumps! does that mean I win?
I don't know if i've got this in the correct place, but still working on the 87 Firebird, it's a runner (sorta) but trying to get the gearvendors OD is giving me problems, and when i say problems it's not the gear vendors it's self, just all the extras, like speedo connections and a few other, Gear vendors has been more than helpfull, it just gets frustrating with a unique application, ex going from electronic to mechanical speedo, and still keeping the oem speedo. thought i would try out the new site layout guess I'm not a fast learner
Well, the '36 Plymouth came back from the upholstery shop so it looks like time to get it finished up and running now instead of messing with the '57! Not as much fun, but it sure does pay better!:LOL:
The Plymouth wasn't really ready to get the interior done, but the guy had an opening in his shop to do it so the car went there. Might not have been able to get the upholstery done until mid summer or so had we waited til the car was ready. Anyways, I'll have to do a bit of back tracking on the Plymouth then press on getting the wiring, plumbing, and a myraid of other small things finished up! A bit out of order but all plans have to be a bit flexible, I guess.
The interior did come out quite nice, I'll get some pictures up of it soon.
Got the grille all welded up and installed and put some paint on the brackets that hold the cooling fans and trans cooler today so i can get them installed tomorrow (hopefully). Also got an order off to Del City for more shrink sleeve, connectors, and some other electrical stuff I was almost out of, it should be in on Tuesday. Need to do more polishing on the grille, a bunch of wiring, and some sanding on the edges of the back window so it will fit in the opening. Little things are eating up a lot of time, as usual. Work all day and it looks like I didn't do anything.
Looking forward to seeing some pics Dave
I'll try to remember to take the camera out there tomorrow, gonna put the battery in the charger right now!
Having fun with the Plymouth now, putting things together for the last time! I finished up the grille, built it out of .125" round stainless rod, and got it and the cooling fans installed. Also got the wiring harness almost all connected on the engine, just a few odds and ends to finish up there. Got an order coming in tomorrow with electrical goodies to finish up the wiring, then some more plumbing coming in on another order Wednesday! I'm not at the end of the project at all, but occasionally I can catch a glimpse of "the end" of the build!!!!
I'm new to this and I have a question about my 350 small block. What do I torque my head bolts to? In case you were wondering I have a 1976 Chevy Stepside. Don't really know if that really makes a difference.
At least 2 (or maybe 3) years ago (how time flies when you are having fun) I asked for suggestions on how to hold just the two top hood halves on without the sides - and be half way decent looking. I posted this on another forum yesterday first simply because I another guy had the same situation - so if you have seen it, don't "yell" at me:
I have decided that I'm not going to run the hood sides for my car at this time - and even didn't paint them so I wouldn't get lazy. Using a two piece hood top makes it a bit difficult to hold down, and to come up with something that isn't clunky gives you a mind execise.
There are quite a few that I've seen that have the leather straps and zig zag springs - and I really like that arrangement except there are getting to be too many and I try to occasionally think outside of the normal box.
What I did was to kinda use that leather strap theme a little bit, but modify to something different. I ordered up some 3/4" wide heavy duty nylon webbing, some 3/4" 'D' rings, a couple of turnbuckles and a couple of eye bolts along with some SS 10-32 machine screws.
First, I welded some 'D' rings to some short pieces of .25 round rod to fit in the loops for the sides. These pull against those loops and wont fall out but will come out easily when I want to open it up:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1545.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1547.jpg
Then I measured things up and cut plus punched some holes:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1546.jpg
These pieces were then bolted together rather then riveted - by choice as I like the look - and attached to a 1.25 ring and then the turnbuckle:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1548.jpg
The eye bolt replaces the fender hold down bolt - the galvanized eye bolt needs to be changed to a SS version in the next McMaster -Carr order.
This is what I ended up with:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1544.jpg
The webbing has a 2000 pound break strength, so is way strong enough, the eye bolt would pick up the car and with the smaller width webbing, my engine is visible without the usual two 1-1/2 leather straps and some hardware detracting the eye.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSCN1550.jpg
Right now, to open, I have to loosen the turnbuckle as there is an open hook at the eye bolt. I have a lock nut there now, but it will get a wingnut (SS of course) arrangement eventually - next McMaster order along with the eye bolt and maybe a SS turnbuckle instead of the aluminum body version I have there now. Like everything else on a home built car, it's a WIP item which I didn't want to spend a fortune for parts without knowing it would work.