:lol:x2 :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by dave severson
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:lol:x2 :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by dave severson
..............o.k. 1 more project & then it's time to get back on the "Z".
I have an issue with the stomp shear.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...INGapShear.jpg
It's in a small out building along with the lawn mower & other stuff like that, so there's not much space. Where the shear is setting now, I can shear sheet stock length wise but to sheer the end off a 4x I have to run the sheet up the opposing wall (small building). If I could turn it 90° it would work great for shearing off the end of a 4x, but I wouldn't have room to shear length wise. The deal weighs 2,600 lbs. so it's not something you can just spin around like a couch. For some reason the stop gauge only goes to 26''. I need it to go 48'' deep.
So, I'm building a truck that will be permanently bolted to the shear so I'll be able to move it wherever I need to cut whatever I need to cut, & I'm going to add a 48'' stop gauge so I don't have to use a tape measure for anything over 26''. Here's what I have so far....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...earshuttle.jpg
Got the basic frame tacked together. There's a couple places I'll have to cut back out once this much is welded together.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...HingeParts.jpg
Cutting reliefs in the hinge parts, soz' the hinges don't bind.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...weldhinges.jpg
Got the hinges all clamped together on a 3/4" shaft to keep everything aligned while tacking them together.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kedinplace.jpg
Hinges all welded & tacked to the truck frame.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...totheframe.jpg
Mocked up in what will be the down position. Picks the stomp shear up little over 1/2'' so it can be rolled around on the urethane wheels.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...thelinkage.jpg
I got a few linkage parts cut out & decided to call it a day..........''It's a day''.
That ought to make using the shear a whole lot more handy!!! Nice to have the big shop equipment, but it does take some creative engineering to make it usable in a small shop!!!! Good planning!
Got my boo-boo's fixed on the Plymouth and repainted the areas that were damaged... I've got probably a day's worth of cut and buff left then I can get on with finishing the car up finally!!!! It's not done, but I think I can see the end from here!!!!!
boo boo's suck. I get them and wonder where my eyes were the first time around.
It was worse then that, Charlie----I banged into the back of the car with a piece of tubing I was bringing in the door---snow on my boots makes for a slippery floor!!!! But then I've known that for years, haven't I?????:LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
:LOL::LOL::LOL: Hey Dave wasn't boo boo that little bear we watched on Saturday morning back in the 50's & 60's.
Got a little linkage glued together tonight.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...RUCK3-7-12.jpg
Yeah, that was Yogi's buddy out in Jellystone park! Heard he gave up stealing picnic baskets and joined a commune in Montana!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by pro70z28
Not much on the Nova today just mounted and wired the Battery cut off switch by the tail lights.
Got more done on the stomp shear truck this weekend.
Rolled on it's own wheels for the first time today.
Got a bunch of cleaning up to do & a fair amount of welding. Still have to build the tray or table to catch the sheared material & an extended gauge.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...k3-10-12-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...k3-10-12-1.jpg
It fits in Photoshop. Hope it fits in the real world.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rlaymockup.jpg
Got a little further.
Mounting pads welded in the corners.
Frame for the tray to catch the sheets as they are sheared.
Got a start on the extended gauge.
Most of the gussets are welded in.
Lock for the foot pedal.
Pretty close to tear down, clean up & paint.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...uck3-14-12.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...k3-14-12-2.jpg
Looks great Pro, anxious to see it all done and painted up with the shear mounted on it! Sure will make it easier to use when you can move it around and get it out of the way when not in use!
I finally got the truck for the shear done, but for a few punch list things. Now I just have to get it mounted under the shear.
Got some paint on it. Hard to believe it's still March. One good rain & it'll be time to mow.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...TruckPaint.jpg
Painted it a light blue & ivory hammered finish to match the shear
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kFinished2.jpg
Once the shear is bolted down I'll print out & apply the rulers for the guides. Still have a fence to make.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kFinished4.jpg
Still have a rubber pad to glue & screw to the foot pedal.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kFinished3.jpg
The table frame bolts on. It has to go on after the shear is mounted to clear the shear's linkage. I'll put an aluminum top on the table when it's all bolted together for the last time.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kFinished1.jpg
Now I have to get a service truck down here to load the shear on the deal.
Finding out that TIGing will require some time practicing.:LOL:
It's a little tricky with the preflow and ever worse remembering post flow before pulling away. Still havent got the foot pedal (amp control) figured out so I treat it like I'm at the track, wide open. And your not kidding about keeping the joints tight. But I'm slowly getting there. A lot more practice before I trust myself with the headers I spent so much time on. :LOL:
Now I'm tring to find an good torque angle wrench. I'm not a professional mechanic so I really don't want to spend the money on the Snap On Tech wrench but at this time it's looking like my best choice.
David
When TIG'ging, I like to think of it as an electric torch: just like acetylene. About the biggest difference being to be sure to wear gloves, else you can get shocked by your filler rod! Oh, and you can change the 'flame' with the pedal, how nice would that be with acetylene!
Yeah, I use to use an acetelyne torch quite a bit many years ago. But making the primary tubes just right has been a little tricky. I tried backing the heat off so I wouldn't have too much penetration inside the tubes. Also using a purge set up. It seems to help. I think it all boils down to getting the technique down.
David
rule of thumb---amps = metal thickness------.065 equals 65 amps----outside of bends are streched thinner so will need to back off the pedal a little--my welder has a pulse control and that helps me for timing the dabs and lets the puddle cool a little---
As I've TIGed I find myself cranking the amps higher & higher. Now it's set on 180 (it's a synrowave 180) I do all the controlling with the pedal. Even sheetmetal. That might not work for everybody, but it seems to work best for me. I just watch the puddle & adjust the amps as needed as I go. Works especially well on aluminum. Not a good idea (gaps that is) as a general rule but they can be filled pretty easy with a wide amp range too, just watch the puddle.
can you weld a beer can at 180 amps?
I find that on anything of a staedy thickness--tubing--not like welding a braket to the middle of something--that using the max setting at just over what I need gives me the widest range for the travel of the pedal---using the full setting makes the pedal work like a on/off switch and doesn't let me DRIVE the welder with the pedal????
I have found that welding on the outside of the bend(thinnest portion of tube) to a full thickness straight piece has a tendacy to shrink the tube and fks the fitment
I've never tried to weld a beer can, but I might try it one of these days.
maybe I'll stop by with a 6 pack!!!!
How do you know when to back off on the heat? Puddle gets to wide or starts to drop away?
I noticed that when I had it cranked up higher.... 70amps my weld dropped down into the tubing which would make it look real bad after cleaning up the welds and the undesirable weld inside which would restrict the exhaust flow. The joints would be very noticeable. So I dropped back to 62 (welding 16 ga or .0625) and much improved. I was trying to fill a couple wide joints with 3/32" filler rod which felt like it was too big as a filler rod so I'll be getting some smaller rod.
I still have a lot of practicing to do. This exhaust tubing is real picky. I want just enough weld left on top so I can easily clean it up with my roloc scotchbrite pads so the headers will look good for a trip to Jet Hot (or somewhere ?). At the same time I want good penetration without alot of build up inside. :rolleyes:
David
so you see that the thumb rule works!!!!!!!!!!on the thin stuff i set the amps for full pedal travel and then back pedal(let up on pedal just like driving and getting wheel spin)--the pulse feature on the thin stuff works real good as a timer---I think one of those music clicker things would work good also--kind of keeps my coordination--i don't weld as much any more and you can tell more practice / play time would help---I like 1/16 rod for most stuff but do use a lot of 3/32 for balancing crankshafts as it weighs 30 gr per 3 foot or almost 1 gr/inch----just bend the rod where i want to stop and weld away until get to the bend--
I never wear gloves----watercooled torch and bare handed easier to feed rod--
You'll have to make it a six pack of pop for me. Last time I had a couple beers I thought I was gonna' die. (acid reflux in my old age)
My son Jeff has been on vacation the last couple weeks workin' on his Camaro. He took the stock fuel pump out & installed an external ( much bigger) pump, a couple ''mega micron'' filters & all new fuel lines & fittings. The fuel pressure gauge doesn't bounce around anymore, it's got a nice clean supply of fuel for the nitrous now.
Hey Jerry, you'll appreciate this, I actually "finally" talked him into droppin' my Rossler 210 in there for a few laps. He's been stuck on keepin' that 6 spd. until now. I told him since I won't be using it anytime soon, he should try it just to see how it compares to the 6spd. I'm bettin' he'll be hooked the first time he lets go of the trans brake button. :eek::D:D
for racing I'm sure he'll like it--
I'm coming down that way to get some cheaper gas friday nite and do a little carpentry work at Dee's------
you guys gas is about $.40 cheaper than up here
$3.94 last I checked, but it may change before the sun comes up.
$3.98 here hasn't hit 4 yet but can't get much closer
Quote:
Originally Posted by pro70z28
That's deplorable!!!! Trying to make your own son become "shiftless"..........
I still think you should just buy him a 5 speed Lenco!!!!!!!
He's on his own if he buys a lenco. :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
I just want to use his car as a test bed for the Rossler. I've had it for 2-3 years now, I should really find out if it works. :whacked::LOL::LOL:
I had a truck lined up to lift the shear onto the truck, but I know those guys are busy this time of year & I hated to bug them about my little project. So, tonight I got this bright idea to build brackets for the floor jacks that would pick the shear up, but would not get in the way when I rolled the truck under it.
I used some scrap stuff, nothin' pretty, but it worked. The bottom angle iron that slides under the shear between the feet has a lip that wraps around to the inside of the shear. When I jack it up it locks onto the shear, simple but effective.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kbrackets1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ckbracket2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ckbracket3.jpg
Slipped it in place, drilled the mounting holes & bolted it in place.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...28/Itfits1.jpg
Even the shears pedal linkage clears. Once the swivel wheels get straightened out it rolls surprisingly easy for 3,000 lbs.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...28/itfits2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...28/itfits4.jpg
Table fits. Needs an aluminum top & there's a little more to get the fence finished.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...28/itfits3.jpg
That really turned out nice Pro!!!! Sure does make that monstrosity a whole lot more usable when you don't have to wait to get 6 big dudes to come by the shop to help you move it out so it can be used!!!!!!
It did turn out very nice. I couldn't picture it being under the shear so, as always, the pics tell the story. That's great how you made the cutout for the linkage.
Very nice setup, and clever.
links to my pics of the 63 Dodge project....
Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket
Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket
I am currently building a bonneville style 40 ford. Pics to follow. Ford 302/aod trans, 9" ford with 4.11 /detroit locker and moser axles. Around 1960's era build.
Great looking '40!!! Tell and show us more!!!! Drop dead gorgeous car!
Love your Dodge, I'm impressed with your fabricating skills!
Nice 40! Love th3em scallops!