I had a buddies Iroc for 9 months , worked on it only when I felt like it .
But even in you pics we can see the prep that went down before the paint . Thats the 10 K paint job part no one understands .
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I had a buddies Iroc for 9 months , worked on it only when I felt like it .
But even in you pics we can see the prep that went down before the paint . Thats the 10 K paint job part no one understands .
A bit of progress on Mike's Buick, had to paint the door jambs and of course there was some rotted out areas on the door shell that had to be repaired. The guy who had the car for some strange reason decided to do the jambs blue, so had to sand all that crud off and repaint them in white. Also got the inside of the trunk done, tomorrow I'll do the inside of the hood then start prepping the rest of the car for a bit of touch up here and there and some clear!
I like the curves on that car Dave. What do you prefer to seal off the back of the repairs....like where the door jambs meet the door skin? I've been using Rust Buster but dont really car so much for the extended waits between coats.
David
I like to strip all the paint, old sealer, etc, do a coat of Phix (about the same as Rust Buster, yeah, it's slow too), then epoxy primer, seam sealer (I use 3M), and onto the finish paint and clear....
The old Buick does have some great lines to it, got the last of the primer on it yesterday so once more around it wet sanding and it's time for the shiny stuff!!! Had a lot of little areas to repair on the exterior, car was originally put together a few years back with not a lot of emphasis on the detail work.... Should be good to go for a few more years, now. Mike, guy that owns the car, wants to drive it a couple years, then a complete re-do and re-power on the car.... His son bought it for him, then died about 6 months later.... Not real sure their's enough money to get it away from him now.....
Well, I can say that I like the odd stuff. Not that a Buick is odd, just that you rarely ever see one. And that one looks in great shape.
My grandpa had a couple old Desoto's on his farm in Duluth back when I was a kid. Wish I had asked him for them before he sold the farm. They, like the Buick, are rarely seen. Around here at least.
Wish I grew up in the 50's or 60's.
David
Mike actually came up on a lead for a matching '60 Buick drop top someplace down in Missouri!!!! He was waiting for the guy to send him more pics of the car, then he'll probably have that, too!!! Mike's just another kid playing with toys, he'll be 70 next month!!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:
I'd forgotten how huge these old cars are!!!!! Started wet sanding yesterday and couldn't make it all the way around the car, had to go out and finish it this morning!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL: Somebody tried to tell me the car hadn't gotten any bigger and that I just got older, don't know if I wanna believe that or not!!!!!!
Anyway, a few little things left to do on the Buick, then hopefully shoot some shiny stuff on it this weekend!!!!!
I am in a bit of a fix: The fellow that built my 318 sent it back to me with the oil pump in a box [not installed]. When I went to install the oil pump, I immediately noticed that one of the rear main studs was keeping me from mounting the pump correctly. I cut the stud down to the nut, almost, but it is still about 1/8" too long for the oil pump to set squarely in place. My dilemma: do I cut into the nut, or build a shim to fit under the pump?
This is a 93 318 with magnum heads, really about 325 right now with roller everything. It is going to be mated with a Torqueflight trans and the rearend from a 89 New Yorker and being put under my '38 [Sarnia built] Dodge 2 door touring.
No need to double post here on CHR ( http://www.clubhotrod.com/shop-talk/...-oil-pump.html ), and in fact it makes things very confusing for you and everyone else if people start responding in two or more places. Your dedicated thread is all you need.Quote:
Originally Posted by Inkitup
My dad and I are almost done my 1954 Ford NAA tractor and then we'll be moving on the my 1947 Ford Fordor. It used to be at my dad's place and I only worked on it on vacation but it's at my home now. So far we've blasted the body and frame, made new rocker boxes front to back, new trunk floor cut from a 66 Galaxie. Most of our attention has been on the chassis. We installed a 1992 TBird IRS and a 2000 Crown vic front sub frame. We have mounted the engine/tranny from the crown vic and it fits like it was made for it! Next step is to get the IRS blasted and painted, and finish the rolling chassis. I stretched the wheel base slightly front and back to get the wheels centered in the wheel openings and the chassis sits about 4 inches lower than stock. Love it! Why a Fordor? So I can take my family and cruise anywhere, plus I love suicide doors...
[FONT="Arial"][SIZE="3"][COLOR="navy"]
I need to install seats, doors, windshield and then fire it up and go.:)
NICE! Like the deep maroon color. Looking foward to startup!
Dave those invicta's are some sharp innovation from Buicks car design .
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Until Mike and Chad got this one, I'd kind of forgotten just how stylish the old tanks were!!!! Buick had some very stylish innovations throughout the 50's and 60's but seemed to stick with the tried and true mechanics for years at a time!!! Ahhhh, the days when Detroit actually hired stylists and designers!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
The days before the accountant's input drives the styling decisions? Or maybe even that the accountants are making the decisions!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
I suppose the bean counters had a lot to do with it, but I also think back to the days that the US Automakers started building junk with no styling, no performance, and tried to tell the buyers that that's what they wanted!!!! The foreign car companies still built cars with performance and decent styling with the result being the onslaught of millions of foreign cars being sold in the US!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Dustin El Camino is fast becoming a pain in my side. Lol's. Poor young fella has had his share of problems out of the car already. Keeps wacking his oil pan on stuff. Already has a low profile pan (with kick-outs) so now I'm looking for an even lower profile. Maybe a Miloden or Moroso road race pan. Web site says 7.5" bottom of pan to mounting flange. We have 8.25" now. Car is either leaking a lot of fluid or he has blow by problem.
Question: How long does it usually take an engine with chrome moly rings to seat given the machine shop did everything right? Rings supposedly file fit. He went through 4 qrts of oil in 3 fuel ups. I did notice his oil leaks but definitely not 4 qrts worth.
His rear disc brakes just aren't backing off after releasing pedal. Dragging slightly all the time. I have the Wilwoood prop valve backed off all of the way. No other combi valve. Using an aluminum vette style mc from Speedway (you know...the one with the stainless valve) and the tech fella assured me it was for rear discs, but now I'm having my doubts. If it was a true vette style it wouldn't have any residual valve built in....correct? We're using the D154 style calipers in the rear. All new hoses. No crimps. I just see no reason that pressure wouldn't be released back to the mc. Oh, and I've triple checked pedal free play and rod length. Pedal doesn't move the rod on outside of booster until after a 1/4" of pedal travel.
How can I test rear portion of mc to make sure fluid returns? I was thinking about using some clear hose to a baby food jar but did figure it would move enough fluid to tell if what was going in was going back.
David
Other than the above it's okay. I finally got the end gate 4000 sanded and buffed. Turned out fairly good. I have to get some pictures up. I'm sorry. I've got so much going on I keep forgetting to take my camera.
David
A few not so great quality picks taken from my ipad. I'll try to get some good pictures with my camera soon with the end gate on.
David
And a few more...
And a couple more....
Finally got the kick panels matched up with the interior color. :)
Absolutely, Gorgeous!
Thanks. :)
And none better than a snap of his maiden voyage! :LOL:
The Elky came out great! Don't understand the brake problem at all.... Are both pads hanging up, or possibly just the inner or just the outer??? Maybe the caliper isn't centered on the rotor or something weird like that?? I've never heard of a proportioning valve holding back pressure, don't really see how it could be the culprit.... Possible the wrong master cylinder was in the wrong box???
Thanks Dave. The caliper brackets may be off slightly, but after the pads get wore down after four weeks of driving, I would think they would eventually stop dragging. They aren't. Still dragging slightly. Oh and both inner and outer are wearing the same amount. Just put new pads on and they are now half gone inner and outer on both sides, rear only. Puzzles me.
David
David,Quote:
Originally Posted by Stovebolter
Not saying it's your problem, but my front calipers were hanging up where the caliper slides through the caliper bracket. I had to do a little bit of creative grinding with a flap wheel on an angle grinder, relieving the bracket just a tad. This can be a bigger issue if you paint the calipers & bracket disassembled, using hard epoxy primer and then a thick finish coat of paint. I hope it's something that simple.
If the pads are wearing out that fast, something must be holding a lot of pressure on the calipers...as long as the calipers themselves aren't hanging up...What calipers are on the rear?Quote:
Originally Posted by Stovebolter
Wish it were that simple too Roger. Left them unpainted. And my calipers slide on the caliper bolt. The bolt threads into the bracket and stays put, and then the caliper floats on the bolt. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Dave, we were using Cadillac Seville with ebrake but had to much trouble with them leaking around ebrake screw so we changed over to the D154 S10/Monte Carlo style calipers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
David
Hmm. Used the same caliper a bunch of times with no problems. All the slider parts on the caliper work good, I'm sure? I guess I'd be for screwing a gauge into the rear brake line fitting at the master cylinder, then after the proportioning valve to see which is holding the pressure.....
Yes. I'm going to try that tomorrow Dave. I did buy a gauge kit as you suggested a while back. The pressure should peak when pedal is pushed in, shouldn't it all but disappear when pedal is released since its a disc brake? I was told that disc brakes have no residual pressure valve like drums do. I just have to get the young man back out to shop. Lols. He's afraid it'll never leave the shop again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
David
Yup, with discs should be no pressure when the pedal is released.
Thanks guys!
Soon all he'll need is side mirrors! Paint looks great now. Hope the brakes sort themselves out. I know I read on here a similar issue a few years ago, that ended up being something related to a valve mounted backwards, wish I could remember the details better! Keep us posted.
Ha ha Steve. I told him mirrors are a blessing but he's determined to stick with the shaved look.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
David
Went out to the garage to finish up a fan shroud for Mike's Buick...Got a bit of work done but didn't get it finished, another one of those days that "King Arthur" is the victor!!! Oh well, should be some NASCAR stuff on the tube soon, and there's always tomorrow, right?
I think you've got your ponytail too tight............loosen it up and it'll go better.;)
You know that "King Arthur" can be a pain :eek::whacked::whacked::LOL:
\Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Days like this, there is no ponytail. Hands don't work good enough to do it. Just a headband.... I used to get mad and throw things, now I just give up and hope there's some racing on the tube!