I like it Dave, simple and clean always works best.....and is usually the toughest design to ome up with!!!! Nice work!
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I like it Dave, simple and clean always works best.....and is usually the toughest design to ome up with!!!! Nice work!
Ditto what Dave Said!
Great idea Dave! Man oh man, that is a pretty car! Great Job!
Nice strap system Dave.
I like the screws holding the straps together as well. Gives it a nice look.
Not only did you save yourself a few bucks, and have a fun project, you didn't punch any extra holes in the hood: Hot Rod Leather "Why?" Hood Straps - Exterior Parts
Rather than the turn buckle thing, how about attaching a stainless Model A hood latch for a spring loaded mechanism that coincidentally goes with the car. It could go either way; fastened to the fender rail would hook a D ring at the bottom of the strap down leg, or, rig it with a D ring to the down leg and hook into the eye bolt arrangement.
Bob - I guess I almost copied Hot Rod Leather without knowing - those must be new as I do recall going to their site, but at least a year ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
The hood latches (you picture '28-'29's) are a part of a look that I was trying to get away from as well, even had them mounted at one time in their normal location before paint, then sold the entire arrangement, plugged the 8 holes and plan eventually when (IF??) I install the hood sides to use Dzus quarter turn fasteners. I just don't like those latches even on a restoration.
My total cost, excluding shipping - is about $35 with the turnbuckles and SS lock nuts already on hand. The SS eye bolts that I want are about $13 each - but may have to wait until next fall.
The shouldered eye bolt - that has to stay. It replaces a fender to frame bolt so about all I can do is try to find something to replace the turnbuckle which works, but there is probably a better choice - eventually
Well it took about a year, off & on, mostly off, :(but I finally have the firewall in primer. There's still body work to do, but I wanted to get it covered so it doesn't rust again. Hot & humid today, so I have the A/C running to dry it out, yea, that's it, I have it running for the primer. lol.
I'll be setting the front end on this afternoon. It's going to be a job, the front end needs a LOT of tweaking I'm afraid.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...med5-30-11.jpg
Firewall cover set in place, roughly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ace5-30-11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d2-5-30-11.jpg
Not too bad for the initial set-in-place, Pro! Haven't seen any 'glass front ends that didn't need a bunch of work to make it fit correctly, certainly not on of those "Take it out of the box and bolt it on" deals.....but then few parts are when building a car! I'm sure you'll get it dialed in!
That's quite the job on the firewall Pro.
I love the letters.
Looks great, Pro! You'll be in the staging lanes before you know it.
Nice job. Gotta love them old muscle cars. They look like they want to eat pavement! :)
I'm new to this site and in fact just finished putting my new Holly 4 barrel carb on, 3 1/2 inch straight pipes, gas springs, traction bars, 295 drag radial tires, and crager ss rims on my 71' Mach 1 and an currently looking for a new transmission to seal the deal. I'm looking for a 5 speed automatic with an overdrive, would anybody happen to have any suggestions?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...end6-11-11.jpg
I started on the hinges but then decided I better get the front end straight first or the hinges would be wrong. (The front end is a mess) The nose didn't even come close to fitting, so I trimmed the opening & made cuts where I had to, to get it to match up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ungtrimmed.jpg
I used some scrap aluminum from an old sign to get the nose in the right place.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...escrewedon.jpg
Glassed the blank spaces between the gussets. After it sets up I'll unscrew the gussets & finish the fiberglass, a job I'm just itching to get done. lol
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...lassingin1.jpg
No glass on the outside yet but the grill surround fits. (ya' I know, wrong Z-28 emblem on the grill, it's what it came with) Got a nice shinny NOS one in the box that IS the right year.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...illmock-up.jpg
Back to working on the hinge & tree stuff for now. I'll leave the glass work for cooler weather. :lol:
Well, they got the basic shape right anyway!!! Last 'glass front I had to work with was on a Chevy II---they missed the body line by about 1 1/2"!!! Oh well, guess you could just call it job security!!!!
Yea Dave I should have taken a pic. of it when I first set it on the car.If I lined the door up on one side I had 2'' of mismatch on the other side. The kids are on vacation so we are celebrating Father's Day Friday. I spent the last few days working on hinge designs. Each one had a little problem here or there but they all helped me come up with the final design. To get the front end to work like I hope it will, the front end has to come forward first 3.75'', then raise 2". Then flip up. I want it to be removable also. I came up with a bunch of ideas, some of the more promising ones I cut prototypes out of 1/4" PVC cut offs. First obstacle was getting the geometry right. After that was just making sure there was enough material in the right places & keeping it small enough to fit where it had to fit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...prototypes.jpg
The last design came pretty close to fitting alongside the 3''x2'' main rails but still but I still wondered if I'd be kicking myself down the road when it came time to mount the radiator, pro charger & all the other stuff that needs to go in the front. Then I got the bright idea of building the linkage inside the frame rail. After a few more prototypes I think I have it, (works on the bench anyway) lol
So, today I cut out the CNC parts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...gepartsCNC.jpg
Got a few parts to make on the lathe yet & some massaging to do on the frame rails to make everything fit. I guess if it doesn't work I'll just have to go back to the drawing board. Only 1 way to find out..................... Stay tuned.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...sofftheCNC.jpg
Anxious to see the entire assembly...if it works don't lose the program, I wanna do the same sort of thing on the '57 and my 'maro!!!!! I'll be tuned in!!
My car is a round tube car and I welded a 3/4 washer to the end of the rail tube--then on the tubing structure of the front end I put 2 tubes going back about 5 and 7 inches long which plug into the washer holes--the longer one starts first for initial alignment and then the 5 incher--this has been the easiest method of installing / removing front ends of any I've seen
That's what Art Morrison offers for this chassis also, but I am trying to make it a tilt front end so I need a little lift along with the slide to get the nose off the ground. I know, I'm a glutton for punishment. lol
When you get it running , you ain't ever going to tip it---unless its a cold one after the last round!!!!
Still working on the '36 Plymouth--plumbing and wiring!!!! With the EFI and all the electronics, this one is a really learning experience from the carb and distributor stuff!!! Just ordered the last of the fittings for the fuel system so I should get it finished up this weekend. The power steering pump for the hemi had a plastic reservoir attached to it that would have wound up in the middle of the left front fender so I had to make a fitting for the pump and change to a remote reservoir and make up all the hoses. Had to do a lot of learning along the way on this project, but I think I've become a convert to EFI because of it. Good power and good fuel economy in the same package!!! Who would have ever thunk that???
Hoping to get things ready to install the battery and start checking out circuits this weekend and hopefully get it fired up some time next week.
Looking forward to pics. of the finished product Dave.
The way my week is going the "Z" might get sidelined for a few days. Work schedule is backed up.
I had a real disappointment with the manifold set up I bought for mine. XV motorsports wasn't exactly up front about it. Come to find out there is a 50# loss of torque if you do not use any kind of boost to go along with it. Found that out when I did some research on programming it with the diablo tuner. I may put the stock manifold back on soon if I can get the fuel rail hooked up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
And second that on the pics.
Had to work most of the day today, but I found enough time to assemble the hinges & buff them a little.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...sassembled.jpg
I think it's time to have Brent or Bill change your screen name to "KING O' BLING"!!!!
:LOL:
Hope they work for you as well as they look pro.
Came out looking real nice.
Neat stuff Pro!! look great!
Hi evryone
noob here looking for some outside advise. I'm in the 4th year of an all steel frame up of a 34 plymouth coupe. Here are the specs so far.
I boxed the frame put in a 1970 318 V8, Erson #E420121 Cam 1400-4800 RPM Range , 727 Auto Trans w/1800RPM stall speed, 83/4- 3.08 rear end gears. I would like some exhaust ideas, some tell me go with the X or H cross over some say no. What do think?
Thanks everybody.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
I don't think the anti-billet crowd is gonna like this deal Uncle Bob. lol
yuppers, we gonna have to start calling your 'maro "The Bling-Bling Thing".................
Steel fab today, no bling. :LOL::LOL: Got a little more done on the hinges. Made a jig to cut the frame horns off. Boxed in the rail to keep junk from getting down inside the frame. Welded them in along with some fish plates to weld the horns back on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...horncutjig.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../frameplug.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...iedtherail.jpg
I had a little ooops. I spun some bushing bungs on the lathe, welded them in & when I tested it the hinge came out of the rail. The pins were supposed to keep the hinge in the rail but there was just enough clearance for it to slip by.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...aceswelded.jpg
So I made up these little clips to grab the pin a little better. Ended up making clips for both pins. That meant the linkage would no longer fit inside the rail, so I made some c-channel out of square tubing for the bottom. Holes are for junk & water drainage. I'll have to add one on the top too. At least the hinge locks in place solid now, in both open & closed positions.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../Hingeclip.jpg
Got a few more parts to make & they will be ready to weld back on. The 3/4'' pins are for alignment during welding, eventually they will be replaced with 3/4" nylon bushing stock & a 1/2" steel pin. Got some black corian® cut-offs from a counter top place. Cutting that on the CNC to fill in the gaps between the rails & the hinges, so there won't be any metal to metal contact. Nylon & corian® should allow the hinges to slide smooth.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...nsmockedup.jpg
I hope this deal goes a little better from here on out. Hate those glitches.
For no ''bling'' it sure feels like I just looked at some.
Nice.
Looks great Pro! Glitches were invented about the day after hot rod building!!!!
You wanna talk glitches - just take a look at my AVATAR. Only one has brought me to a halt coasting to the side of the road though:eek::CRY:
That 'hinge' system looks great
Ok. Been awhile since I've been here. Been obsessed with trying to get my son's 65 finished. Finally all in primer and about half of it blocked and ready for paint. Now....its just too dang hot to mess with it. Bought a huge fan for the shop but my sweat keeps dripping on primer while I'm sanding. Figure I'll just put it off for a while.
Which leads me to my alternate plan for the 36 Cheby. I knew when I started this truck build....that in the pit of my stomach I really just wanted a open wheel hot rod. Anyone familiar with Gizmoness (James Crosby's 56 Peterbuilt) will know right away the direction I hope to go with the 36. I hope to set the cab on a pair of 32 rails, no bed (bobbed rear), maybe a quick change rear maybe not, solid axle traditional steer with sprint car steering box, keeping the LS, and either a set of the modern looking 20X10's and skinny's up front or the prostreet look with 15X15's at the back.
I'm still trying to figure out what to expect on the steering though. Not a great deal of info on the net. If I cant figure out a cantilevered/air bag set up for the front I'll probably go with spring behind Ibeam with traditional steering.
Taking at least 6" out of the bottom of the cab and 4" out top.
I see several members projects are finished. Great to see! Its good to see everyone still doing their thing on here. Hope everyone is well!
David
Hey, welcome back!! How have ya been, anyhow??? Sounds like a plan coming together for the '36!!!
Welcome back . I found a photo of Gizmoness. Cool Rod and a link about it here '56 Peterbilt "Gizmoness" | KruzinUSA
http://www.motortopia.com/worldofrod...ng-300x200.jpg
Hey Dave. I'll try to pop in now and then since its wonderfully hot and humid right now. I've been holding it together as usual. Hard pressed for time to do anything now days. I think the corporates have figured out since they made cutbacks at the beginning of the economic slide, they are saving money even paying over time. Plus side I still have my job, down side I just about have no other life.
Yes, I am doing an about face on the 36 now. Kinda pricey stuff going all perty and shiney for the front end and the rear. That should be the largest portion of the expense though. I would like to go with a Super Bell 4" drop, hairpins, traditional steer with sprint steerbox in dash. And I'm still diging for a used Winters Champion rear. Reality.....probably get a 9" and add a Magnum (paint) with cross steer. I really dig that Gizmoness. I just wish I had someone local that had a 32 so I could compare the curvature of the 36 to it. I already know I'll have to widen the frame a bit so I'm just going to buy a set of new rails and adjust from there. May be able to make some adjustment to the curve of the frame as long as I dont mess up the relief in the side.
Its good to see all is well.
David