He might have what you want.
1940 1941 1942 1946 1947 Ford Truck Right Door | eBay
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He might have what you want.
1940 1941 1942 1946 1947 Ford Truck Right Door | eBay
You may want to check if the cab is twisted, but I think you said the doors you have are different. Man I feel for ya.
Little more work on the cab roof and a new rear cab corner (2nd one same side ). Here's a tip for those whom are going to put a cab corner in " have the door hung or be prepared to re do it . The roof is getting better worked out some dents and folded the inside lip back over the the new roof.
Was thinking of leading in the joint on the back of the cab but the lead just doesn't want to take. I'll use 3m seam self leveling sealer.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0a2c6ab7.jpg
inside lip
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse018c648.jpg
cab corner
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb7c4a580.jpg
roof post
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbae081cc.jpg
Have I told you that you are my hero?!?!?! No Fear! :LOL::LOL:
If the lead won't stick, the metal isn't clean enough. You can try a solution of weak muriatic acid and then neutralize it or rinse with lots of water.... If you do use an acid - keep the door open and use some fans to pull air through the building....
Nice work again! How'd you come out on your door?
They sell a tinning butter for leading I use it when I do leading makes it better BUT clean is the real answer
I thought of using some liquid cleaner/flux that I have but once it runs down into the seam its trapped between the lead and the inside lip that's rolled and crimped . I thought of welding it all and grinding, but I'm sure it would pull the roof line out of whack.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Door is on the back burner for now, hope to find another that fits better or one to use as parts to make this one fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Charlie is right.. get some tinning butter.. it's a flux but I believe it'll wash clean after you're done adding lead.
I just don't think I can use any flux or tinning butter because I can't clean the acid residue that will be trapped between the lead and the crimped inside edge of the roof and cab . Here's a little reading on leading.
First thing you have to do is prep the whole surface you cannot tin any Paint, Primer, Oils, waxes, etc
I want to lead it but long term I think the un-washable seam will cause me problems.
What I should have done with the roof after sandblasting the edges prior to assembling so that I could easily lead it in is :
TIN ALL EDGES/SURFACES that I wanted to lead in. In doing the tinning I would be-able to clean up all the residue flux/acid and the leading in would have been a cake walk ! D@m it this makes me mad !
I think you can use the baking soda solution and neutralize it just fine. It even says that as one of the steps in your link.
You can't neutralize what you can't reach. The inside has a rolled lip. The lead will seal it all from the outside. I want to lead it but can't. Unless I can sand or scotch bite it clean enough to get a filet of lead to stick there.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
You're in Catch 22 - you don't want to flux because you don't want the acids in the flux to wick into the rolled lip, but the lead absolutely will not stick to the parent metal without flux. Lead/solder won't stick to a base metal, even if it's sterilized, without flux. Seems to me that the small amount of residual acids in the rolled lip will be totally encased in lead, absent any oxygen. Once any bonded oxygen is used up it couldn't corrode further, could it? Just thinking, and scratching my head a bit on this one. :confused::HMMM::confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy7797
If I were still in the office I'd be chatting with one my ChemE co-workers over a cup of coffee.;)
The big 3 leaded every roof joint for decades, they got away with it... wash / wipe the area down with a baking soda solution if your nervous about it and call it done. that's my 2 cents and with your dollar will get you absolutely nothing! ROFL...
So I e-mailed a ChemE friend and he says my idea sucks :eek::LOL::LOL: He says that he's not a fan of "tinning" due to the potential for long term corrosion, so I explained that normally one tins, then washes with a baking soda neutralizing rinse before going on with the leading which doesn't work here due to the rolled joint.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Maybe you could have someone TIG the joint for you, then lead it? If that's not an option then maybe a skim coat of good quality body filler is in your future?
I have been watching this and wondering if some epoxy glue/filler would fix this for Navy? This stuff has came a long ways over the years and you can do some amazing stuff with it. There's several different kinds out there. You'd want metal to metal and after you apply it and it cures, you can sand it like a filler and then proceed with either tiger hair or filler over it. I've seen some cool stuff done with it.
Epoxy glue would work but surfaces have to be clean
I don't understand the need for epoxy glue? Navy's wanting to lead the joint, but cannot tin it without flux getting into the rolled joint. If he's just going to use filler after the epoxy, why do you need epoxy? Just use filler on the joint as it is.
I'm assuming he's wanting to use lead as a more durable filler because bondo can crack in a stress joint. Since he's having issues getting the lead to stick, this is a great alternative. So I mentioned the epoxy because it is a lot stronger and will act like the lead but it just isn't an alloy or metal.
But you're promoting a skim coat of body filler (I hesitate to use the trade name "bondo") after working down the epoxy filler, not trying to bridge lead over an epoxy seal joint, correct? I'll wait for more input from Navy before I post anything further here.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Sorry for posting. It is just an idea.......
And yes, a skim coat of epoxy filler is applied over the glue because you don't always get perfect surfaces when applying the glue. Also no, not trying to use the glue as a bridge over lead. Since the lead won't stick, id just use the glue. I just mentioned it because it is an option if he can not get the lead to work.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Guys Thanks for ALL the inputs but Holy cow lets not argue over my seam.
Henry Ford put these roofs together with spot welds and then rolled the lip on to the top part of the roof from the cab section and that was what made it water tight, as far as Ford was concerned or as I can see from taking this one a part. My whole reason to lead it in was to produce a weather tight seal along with a nice looking fillet at that seam. I do have a 2 part self leveling seam sealer that is used for auto body repair sitting on my work bench.
Seam Sealer by 3M - Sealers by Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies
The lead work the big car company's did was mostly to join quarter panels and such together and they didn't have any rolled lips to in-trap any acid flux ect. I've taken quarters off a camaro, the quarter and roof panels were laid one over the other and spot welded , and leaded over. There were no lips so everything could be cleaned off inside and out .
I think the biggest thing is just to keep water from seeping in to the seam and causing rust.
Maybe I should just RATROD this thing and go smoke some tires !
You can make it pretty cool as a rat rod too, but I'd keep at it as you've over came a lot already.
No-ones arguing.. just expressing opinions.. and you know we all have them and how they smell right?!?! :D:D:D:LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy7797
Add a few tacks, stiches of weld and use the seam sealer! "SEEMS" like it should work well!:eek::LOL:
My other opinion is.... Do NOT rat the truck!!! :eek::HMMM::HMMM::HMMM:
Of course it is yours.. and you can do as you see fit! But to rat it out....:p
OHHhhhh the horror!!! :p:3dSMILE::LOL::p:3dSMILE::LOL::D
The Horror, the Horror, yes it would be a GREAT HORROR to rat it out. Its like a Mouse giving an Eagle the finger just before it sinks it's talon's into him,, it would be the last act !Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Could you use a non corrosive rosin type solder flux to seal and tin the area, then apply the lead over the tinned areas?Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy7797
Not real tough to weld a seam closed, just have to be very patient when doing it so as not to warp the panels....
Tig welder would work great for this seam it seems. :LOL:
OK, to re-open the idea another ChemE buddy came back to me this morning and he agreed that if you use a tinning flux that gets into the rolled joint, then tin the seam and lead over it the base metal should corrode only slightly because once the loosely bonded oxygen is used up in the flux there's no more free oxygen to feed corrosion. I think that you'll be fine tinning your joint, then leading it closed which will encase any remaining acids. In fact, I think that the heat from leading the joint will quickly cook out the joint, eliminating future corrosion from consideration. Just my $0.02.
I just bought one but my talent does match up to the task yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Here's a little bit more work done. I had welded in a new cab corner and of course things are not perfect so I leaded in to fill some of the low spot. I don't want to bondo thicker than 1/16 if I can help it.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1af6c76f.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9b71f58f.jpg
With roof seam still in question I welded up a mockup seam of the same shape/size and applied the seam sealer to see what it would look like, this is a sanded finish.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps4d677e03.jpg
From the picture it appears the seam sealer will work nicely..
TIG does work nice, but a MIG will do just fine for filling a seam. Once it's welded (properly)there is no chance of the seam opening up and showing a line in the paint---yes, they will do that when filled, even with lead!!!! Some good prep time cleaning the seam out, and patience in welding IMO will yield the best results....Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Took a a week working on the F1 Ford's roof seam with the mig, worst part was grinding my sloppy welds, but it is rock solid two or three years later now!
Its been awhile since my last post and that's because I haven't got much done, just welding and grinding on the cab. I had to add some lips to the toe board section trans cover so I have enough to bolt through. I also cut out my instrument panel for my gauges and speedo.
The roof seam is still not 100% decided on what course of action I'll take. Here's pic's .
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps62eb117b.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps45dcf73a.jpg
Hi Navy, this is one of those periods in a build where it sometimes feels like nothing is moving forward... it's just the hours that get consumed and nothing can be substituted for that labor.. It's still looking good, who's floor panels??? And is that a 40 ford instrument cluster?
The floor panels are Bob Drakes, good thickness to them with well defined bends, toe boards are from .060 flat sheet. The instrument panel is an original that I milled the center out to get max clearance for gauge viewing. A .100 aluminum sheet was than cut to fit. There's going to be more to it than that when its done, pictures will explain it better than I can attempt to describe the finished panel .Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Got a little painting done on the truck, well really the the tranny. Used SPI Black epoxy primer and that will be all for the tranny.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0d6e1d3e.jpg
Bought 2 new/used doors for the truck this weekend and they make no difference in the fit to cab clearance issues . So as far as the doors go I'll just be modifying the door edges a bit.