Beers do have a grounding effect during the stressful moments! :) Make ideas flow easier!
http://blog.hemmings.com/wp-content/...53_resized.jpg
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Beers do have a grounding effect during the stressful moments! :) Make ideas flow easier!
http://blog.hemmings.com/wp-content/...53_resized.jpg
You are ALL WELCOME to my shop for a few beers anytime !
Started the day off with a trip to a car show and ended up doing a little bit on the truck.
1 st pic shows the difference between the doors, a little closer look reveals the left door had been crunched at some point in its life.
2nd pic is my alignment tabs for the roof.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps39d06f4c.jpg
auto focus seem to be having troubles.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa0489c4a.jpg
Where is Selma, just in case your close by I need to know.
Then I could come over and steal some ideas from you HE! HE! HE!
Looks like you do some of everything there.
Kurt
Selma is just north of San Antonio, Tx. My shop is in Seguin, Tx. east of San Antonio about 30 miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by vara4
Nobody has to steal any ideas from me I'll give them to anybody who wants them.
Kurt: Where is Pahrump ??
So if you have glass in the short door, when you roll it up how does the fit seem? Wondering if you could push up the upper channel a 1/4" and fix the gap, as well as get the window to have a proper seal?
Yup that's exactly what I'm going to do. My old auto body buddy told me how to do it without screwing up the door skin. at least it will be closer.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Cool keep us posted!
Nice work on the door. One thing I thought of, is as that cab rusted the cab could have settled and someone back in time could have massaged the top of the door down one way or another so the door would still shut and hot hit the drip rail. Just a thought. The repair is looking great!
The door sucks, more troubles than was ever seen before. I was able to pull up the window frame 1/4 inch but there's more trouble with it. I'm posting pic's of both sides and I think they'll tell the story. In the end it will work til I find another or at least another upper part of a door that I can graft on .
right side
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps09ebd00e.jpg
left side
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0645a57a.jpg
right side
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbff6fabd.jpg
left side
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2d6812f6.jpg
I would say you have your work cut out for you..Any chance in finding another door? maybe out west?
I was thinking maybe add a shim or extension to the window regulator base on the glass where it mounts would work? Might also just chase the problem farther out of whack.
Nope that won't work. The window is hitting the frame at the sides due to the door being out of shape. The glass is plenty tall the hole is just to small. Another door will come along someday. Thanks for your input !Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Todays activity was centered around roof repair. The roof had a dent with a slight crease in it. I ended up cutting the inside panel open to knock out the dent. It's about as good as I can get it, the inside panel just is really in the way to do lots of dolly work. At this point it's less than 1/16 depth off at any point. I hoping that's good enough. I have NO body work knowledge so feel free to chime in here.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps035bba9b.jpg
This next picture shows the back of the roof and as you can it has many little dent's, flat spots. I'm thinking rubber hammer or steel with dolly to try to push them out. Maybe lead the in ?
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5579b954.jpg
What is a reasonable thickness for bondo ?
Have you ever seen a stud gun before? I'd recommend going and hetting one. It's a valued body tool IMO. It will weld studs to the sheet metal so you can put a puller on the stud and pull dents out. Here's one just for an idea.
Stud Welder Dent Repair Kit
I'm the furthest thing from a body guy but, Robert (MP&C) has a good idea (I think) with the use of a pvc pipe end cap to backup the metal and allows the metal to move and not get stretched between a dolly. He has some threads on here, the latest was a tri 5 chevy roof.
That roof is going to take time and patience. But that's the fun right?!?!:)
http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-bu...-progress.html
I'm in no way a metal mover but from what I've seen I'd say Ryan's advice to invest in an economical stud gun and a bag of studs is a great idea for the dents you've shown. Maybe some of our resident metal masters will chime in here.
I bought the cheap stud gun at harbor freight and couldn't be happier with it. Just keep in mind you can pull too far!!!
On that door, you might try scrolling thru the "Swap Meet" section of Ford Barn Sometimes you can find some reasonably priced body parts on there. Just make sure they take good pics of the item and describe it accurately!! Ask me how I know that......:eek::LOL:
So Navy, am I understanding right that your left door seems to be from an earlier or later model that had a different profile across the top which means at a minimum you need to extend the upper skin area to close the gaps (and then deal with the extra wide gap where the door weather strip goes); and now the right door seems to be crunched down so the window doesn't fit, but that door fits the cab opening? It sounds like that truck led a hard, hard life and may have played "turtle" at some point in its history....
I'm by no means a sheet metal pro or pro body man. :LOL: I just get by and do my own stuff. It takes me longer but I can afford my time. Haha I've watched guys use a buffer with a flat disc and take the crowns off dents like you have shown, and then use odd shaped rubber or steel dollies and get in from the back side and push them back out. I like the stud gun because it eliminates most of the need to cut the inner panel. MP&C can definitely tell you how to make those repairs in no time. He is the man for sure!
Ok guys here's what I did today. And as always THANKS for the inputs !!
I bought a Stud gun from HF. Yes it works great. Sand blasted the edges where the roof will meet the cab.
I had already cut a hole in the inside panel to knock the roof out so now I have 2 choices as to what to do with the hole.
1. Patch it with a section from the old roof.
2. Make a inset where a GPS or backup camera etc. could be obscured. I made up a paper template for such a inset, its not quite right be close enough to provoke my thinking about possibilities .
What do you Think
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6c9eb9ab.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps90281a2f.jpg
Well as far as the doors go I'm just going to start hunting down a new one for the drivers side, the passengers side will work just fine. I'm going to work around the door for now got lots of other things to do on this truck. Thank you all for the inputs.
I think that opening would work great for a back up camera or GPS as long as your sun visor doesn't block it.
Sounds like a good plan to me. Whenever I fixate, the project stagnates. Doing other things on it, is a way to keep your momentum moving forward!
Times 3 on the GPS or Camera idea.
Well I'm glad you guys like the idea because it became a reality today. It's just tacked in place now, I will finish welding it with my new Tig that I pick up tomorrow ! I finally decided that now is the time to buy one, not when the truck is done. Getting a Miller Diversion 180. Anyway here's a pick of the camera area.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps382c8d4d.jpg
Heck, that's better than a camera holder! LOL..
Run an A/C line behind it and your set.
Looks great and cool on the new Tig unit!
wow, great build thread here! Lots of information i can use when i start my '41 build. Keep us updated!!!
Once again you're turning lemons into lemonade Navy. I think you've already justified the purchase of the stud gun, and besides another cool tool is always a good thing, right? Right approach on the door, too, IMO.
Headed to another swap meet this weekend hoping to find a door or at least an good upper half of one. I really don't want to splice the door together but will if I have too. Happy Easter to all !
Good luck on the door hunt!!
Happy Easter back at cha! Good luck on the parts hunt.
Latest work on the truck. Roof install was a PITA because of the dam door . The door still is giving me doubts about whats really wrong with this cab. I installed the roof using the windshield pattern made of plastic and shield measurements prior to removal of the old one. I measured the roof to the rocker panel on each side and there 3/8" different thus the door troubles a long with the bent door, yet the front shield is correct. So what is wrong ? I measured the hinges to all points on the doors and cab on both sides and they measure within 1/16" . http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse59fdd12.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbae081cc.jpg
I'll just keep moving on and see where I end up.
I'd just keep doing what you're doing as well. It's looking good by the way.
Looks good did you have any luck on finding another door??
No door to be found yet, I'll find one somewhere someday.Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
Is the floor to top of door jam the same demensions on both sides of the truck? And how about the rear window measurements? Is it possible that the back of the replaced roof was longer on the door side that is too short? Just trying to guess what may be going on, if it isn't the door being from the wrong model?