Well after months of not getting my fuel injection to work ( didn't ready spend much time) my truck is running great. Just waiting to go to the paint shop. Spring is just around the corner and I hope to be ready. Pic's will be coming soon.
Printable View
Well after months of not getting my fuel injection to work ( didn't ready spend much time) my truck is running great. Just waiting to go to the paint shop. Spring is just around the corner and I hope to be ready. Pic's will be coming soon.
Another problem popped up, new water pump causing pulley to be out of line. The old pump was off just bit so I let that one go but the new one is off by 3/16 (too long at the pulley mounting plate) . Mounting my A/C pump ready brought this to my attention. My power steering lines up and so does the alt. Does anybody have spec's on a short water pump for SBC. Its either the pump or the billet alu. pulley. Thinking of pressing the flange on shaft a bit, but down the road that will cause troubles on the road if the pump fails. thoughts ?
The short water pumps were used on early engines with a pressed on balancer that was around 3/4" to an 1" thick and the crank snout was not drilled or tapped for a bolt. I used to drive them on with a hammer and a length of 2 by 4. Mixing billet with steel pulleys could be your problem. Can you take and post any pictures?
Ok I measured the pump and its correct length of 5 5/8" long. Everything else lines up so I guess I guess this shinny billet pulley is another part to be added to the scrap heap.
NTFDAY, thanks for your input and for an education, I have a 283 with a 327 crank that uses a bolt to hold the balancer on .
I'll have to get some pics.
I see they make shims for the balancer but that means the power steering pump and alt. would also have to be shimmed out, not really an option .
I wasn't aware of different length pumps for Corvettes. The only thing I found different for A Vette was the boss for the water pump hose fitting. A C3 Vette with air requires a different pump, the boss for the hose fitting extends out further from the body, and if you use the wrong pump you need an extended hose fitting. I found that out the hard way. Also , FWIW, 55 to 57 sbc's have no provision for side motor mounts, they used a front saddle mount.
About ready to go to paint so I thought I'd make sure the New Grill that's been on the shelf for 5 years fits. After trying ALL combinations of old and new parts this is the best it fits. the old one fits perfectly, as a 40 can lol.
It take's a bunch of pressure to make the bolt holes line up and I think down the road it'll break for sure. Anybody had any experience with die case grills ? Hope your all staying safe in these troubled days.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
Hey Navy, gotta love these repop parts sometimes...lol! If you pressure the side pieces to fit, does the center section still line up? If everything else is fitted and braced better than factory, I wonder how many years down the road it would take for any actual breakage? Just thinking out loud here....
I was told by an old friend once, when I was assembling my coupe, that the only thing worse than 33/34 ford front clip was a 39/40 !! I'm surprised I've any hair left!! And yes, repop parts don't help the situation.
I have talked to James at Bob Drake ( he's been there 22 years) He told me they have never changed the pattern or had any issues with the grill. I had sent him 8 pic's and he no answer. He said they don't have any grills to compare it to and won't for 6-8 months. It also seems that Drake is the only manufacturer of these grills, others sell them but get them from drake. Anybody know anything different please chime in, I need help. Thanks
what I found on the net
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
On your grille fitment, I've got to wonder if you could gently bring the side pieces into place to bolt them down but not tight, then bring the center section into place and get the bolts installed, followed by carefully snugging everything down if over time the pieces won't take a set in their mated positions and slowly relax into position. I'd be tempted to give it a try, maybe even using a heat gun on the pieces that seem stressed, leaving them overnight or out in the sun for a few hours and coming back to coerce them into place. No guarantees, but I think I'd give it a shot. What choices do you have other than trying to convince the parts to fit?
I'm no 39/40 expert ;) so forgive my ignorance,:confused: are the 39 deluxe and 40 standard grills exactly the same?
Jack
Don't know about the 39's, the grill I have fit's 40 standard and 40-41 pickup's.
Update
Just looked at 39's and their grill appear to only 2 piece
Have seen some after market grills that look like 39's that fit 40's.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
window channel repair
Well Happy New Year to all ! This is the year my truck will be on the road . I said the same thing the last 5 years, but its true this time.
Lots to post but time is all I need.
Here's a pic of new , newest exhaust
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
Reason I needed new exhaust is that I needed ground clearance, so I went to oval pipe where needed.
Why did I need more clearance ? Because I had to go to smaller tires. Why smaller tires ? Because I couldn't get the dang tire off the rear axel without dropping the axel off the air ride , slight over look during the build :(
Where did you find oval pipe, or did you flatten it yourself?
Today was torque converter change day. Reason , the converter was causing forward movement unless I stood on the brakes. It wasn't meant to be in this lite of a vehicle , I installed a 2200-2500 rpm converter.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
I saw this on FB on a Pullmax Group page, basically a set of dies is used to flatten the tubing. This arrangement would allow you to assemble your pipes using mandrel bends and then flatten afterward in order to have a smoother transition in the corners/bends. I know, day late, dollar short. (story of my life :LOL:) But even for a guy without the reciprocating machine, a set of dies made up like this and adapted to an arbor press would get the job done.. albeit more slowly.
Attachment 73291
Attachment 73292
Attachment 73293
photo credit Vini's Hot Rods, Alabaster Alabama
When I was shopping for tube & bends I noticed that Summit, Speedway and JEGS all carried oval exhaust tube and mandrel bends, but as Navy says it's a lot more expensive. Robert, your idea of building from round stock, then flattening would be a lot cheaper if time's not an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by MP&C
Finished up the converter work today and I'm very happy with the way it works , no more having to stand the the brake pedal at idle. Have a Great hotrod weekend !
pic of plane that was in early post
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
This was video of the aircraft start up but I had to delete it because I can not separate account info from vid ? sorry
voided post
Did I ever say how much I think PB sinks ?
here's a vid, I lost a bunch of pic's on Photo bucket so my blog is missing a bunch of pic's will try to reinstall them some day.
You have the file set to private, can't access without permission??
You can add multiple albums and set privacy on them individually for the stuff you want to keep private..
Very nice work and very cool to hear it is running, driving, and moving! This is the year for my 40 as well! One way or another. (I as well have been saying that for years, but enough is enough! LOL)
I used my press and some flat stock to oval some pipe when I made some piping on my vette. I think I may have to do this to get the exhaust out the back of the 40 too. But I am not past putting the cut outs on it and exiting out under the front fenders to get it ti Good guys this year. :LOL:
.
Finally after 8 years this month , It's getting painted ! pic's to come