Sheet metal in the floors are shaping up real nice .
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Sheet metal in the floors are shaping up real nice .
I'm envious. I think I may be pulling the current frankenstien mess out and building a new one too!
Your trans tunnel turned out real nice!!
Thanks for the complements guys. I turned the cab over today and its not so nice looking under neath, LOTS of clean up work.
Navy watching this your 40 is so close to my 37 and when i have to redo it this can be my reference , great coverage .
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More pic's of welded in panels, can't stand the open edges on the bottom so I welded them. Just a bit more and I'll sand blast the bottom and Paint it with bed liner stuff.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5f7b70a0.jpg
More rust repair, weld grind weld grind.
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Here's a few pic's of the exhaust and steering issues. It seems that I'll have to come off the exhaust header with a bend right away to give clearance for the steering shaft. How sharp of a bend can the exhaust pipe have ? I'm thinking I need a 45 degree bend with in an inch of the flange to get the clearance I'll need.
How Many steering knuckles can be used in the steering shaft assy. ??
In puts welcome.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps68f4fac0.jpg
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Your 45 degree bend is not a problem. If you're making them up yourself a mandrel bent "U" or "J" on a nominal 6" radius will give you the bend you need, just cut the portion of the mandrel bend that you need and weld it into place.
On the steering u-joint question, you can have as many as you need, but you'll need to add rigid intermediate supports when you go more than two. A universal at the column end and a second one at the steering box with a solid shaft between is stable and common. If you need a third universal in between then you have to add a fixed support on one side of that third joint.
rspears: Thanks for the feed back. I have 2 Heim joints to support the steering if needed. So many things are having to be worked out at once just to move forward a little bit. I'm also wanting to get the motor fired up for the 1st time, been sitting in my shop for 2 months all wrapped up in a blanket just waiting.
Any in put for Mufflers ? Looking a FlowMaster but that's taxing my budget. Thanks again for the in put.
Sometimes you can luck out and find decent exhaust/mufflers, etc on craigslist. I think this is in your area: 2 New Flowmaster Mufflers
Go to your favorite on-line shopping spot and search for mufflers. You can find a "flowmaster look-alike" for less than 1/3 the cost, and maybe cheaper than that. Summit, sorted by exhaust, then mufflers, then price low to high will show you a bunch less than $25 each. If you get a "turbo" or "max flow" style it's going to be an open chamber style to give you that low rumble. Here's one, 2.5" in & out clearance priced at $19.50 down from $29, and they have it in 2.25" or 3" at the same sale price. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/xyz-77543/overview/ A guy can afford to replace the mufflers six times before investing the flowmaster price!
theres lots of take off mufflers around from people putting custom exhausts on late model cars-------and they are stainless, won't rust out every couple years---------
or do a search for mufflers from any of the stainless exhaust people---you can get any size, inlet/exhaust, length, round, oval , etc that you want---------
I like the exhaust for the 2000-04? mustangs as it is wide at the rear and clears coil over setups nicely over the axle, has the mufflers forward of axle like they used to be---none of that single large garbage can like on most late models
Hello! I'm also restoring a pickup. Congratulations for your excellent work. How do I send a picture for you?
grateful
Mario
Randyr: Thanks for the Post ! Will check this out.
@@@@@@@@@@@ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@ ######## $$$$$$$$$$$$$ dDEDDDDDDDDDDD
Hey Mario, welcome to CHR!! If you would like to post some pictures of your truck, it would be great to start your own thread and post them so we can all see your progress. If you click on "Forum", then "Hot Rod Talk", then "New Thread", you can get started. When posting pictures, some people like to upload the pics to a site like Photobucket then copy the image URL into the body of their post. You can also upload pics directly to the site if they aren't too big. Hope that helps a little.:)
Well here's some pictures of my cardboard tube exhaust mockup. Just trying to get around the trans, brakes and steering in this episode while keeping the pipes up under the truck. The drivers side it the tight side the the passengers won't be a problem. I thinking about the heat ect. so close to the trans ? What do you think ?
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps90b275ab.jpg
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That should work
That looks pretty good. You're making great progress.
Looks good! I wouldn't worry a bit about the proximity to the tranny.
I'm thinking maybe a heat shield or wrapping the pipe with header tape just because I'm a worrier ! The header pipe coming off the exhaust manifold is 2 1/4 " I want to reduce it to 2" just after the bend. See any troubles with a pipe of 2" for 283 bored .60 over ?
lower it more to match what you have on the passenger side---------it will be a lot cooler with it a little lower
did you cut off the brake pedal?
Jerry: I had to cut the pedal to shorten it, would have come out 5 inches to high. It's one of those generic pedal assy.
The trouble with lowering the pipe is it will have to be lowered by aprox. 4" to clear the frame work and I'm not sure of the ground clearance, I guess I'll have to set the truck back on the floor and have a look. Worried about speed bumps etc.
Thanks for the in puts.
think about some oval tubing for that area
and it looks like the trans pan is lower anyway
Today's activity was gas Pedal related. I either don't like or can't afford the pedal assy's on the market so I decidedto make my own. Just had to buy the 2 bronze bushings for the rotating shaft, had all the rest. Used 3/8 rod, 1/8 plate, 1/4 plate and a handle off a Browning 1919 Light Machine Gun (had a spare). The over all length of the cable arm is yet to be determined, made it plenty long. Also the arm is just held with a set screw at this time but it will be welded once all is set, or maybe another screw added .
The parts
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps984da2d0.jpg
The assy.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd16757b0.jpg
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Nice job on the fabrication, looks great!!
I agree, that's way cool! Good Job.
too bad that you mutilated that Browning part---------------------
I don't know if you've fiqured out how your going to run the cable, but I use AN dash 4 Teflon SS hose with a bilkhead fitting thru the firewall and a cable inside of it and then another bulkhead fitting at the other end------------perfect alignment ain't necessary like for a rod link
I was thinking the same thing, but didn't have the AN hose info which is cool to know. I bought mine from LOKAR and it's like Jerry describes with an added feature that the engine end has an extended bulkhead fitting, about an inch or more long, to provide adjustment. It looks like you've got plenty of length on the top end of your pedal to ensure that you get full travel at the carb. I was embarrassed to find that I had been driving mine for about a year with the throttle body hitting about 80% open with the pedal on the floor. It was an easy adjustment to fix, but I needed another person (or a brick for the gas pedal) to get it right. I'd suggest you measure the linear movement you need at the carb, and then transfer that amount to your floor to upper link to decide where to drill your hole in the firewall, especially since you already mounted the pedal pivot.
PS: That old Browning part can be had for ~$16 surplus replacement, so I wouldn't feel too bad about using it.
Sweet! Now when you put the pedal to the metal, you'll have to be carefull, since your running full auto parts! :) Very clever use of parts. Wouldn't mind actually having a 1919 in the old collection!
and that's full automatic vs full automotive ?????????????????
Someone once said: "Imagination is of greater value than knowledge."
That is: the ability to see something not as it is, but as it could be.
What you did with the Browning handle epitomised that.
That is very very clever.
Top marks that man . . . bloody gorgeous!
Roger: Thanks for the input. I will be using a adjustable throttle cable for the hook up. The assy isn't mounted yet, I just held it in place with a magnet for the pic's. I don't feel bad about the Browning part I had already used the backplate portion on a spade grip build for my gun. Here's a pic for those who would like to see where the scrap parts came from.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps07aec247.jpg
Hot Rods and Old Machine Gun whats more fun than that ! Here's one more pic of my shorty 1919. Now back to hot rods.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps4fd9478e.jpg
you are the man can you mount that in the car haha.
Nice work and I like the pedal! Your 1919 is awesome!
With more time than money I decided to machine my own steering column bracket. I had the aluminum and the tools so why not ? Here the pic's so far.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psca802757.jpg
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Have to get some cap screws to fasten the 2 parts together.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psac59bbed.jpg
My Steering column bracket for the firewall. To be welded to the wall.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps522ffa3c.jpg