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Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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    I'm assuming he's wanting to use lead as a more durable filler because bondo can crack in a stress joint. Since he's having issues getting the lead to stick, this is a great alternative. So I mentioned the epoxy because it is a lot stronger and will act like the lead but it just isn't an alloy or metal.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe View Post
    I'm assuming he's wanting to use lead as a more durable filler because bondo can crack in a stress joint. Since he's having issues getting the lead to stick, this is a great alternative. So I mentioned the epoxy because it is a lot stronger and will act like the lead but it just isn't an alloy or metal.
    But you're promoting a skim coat of body filler (I hesitate to use the trade name "bondo") after working down the epoxy filler, not trying to bridge lead over an epoxy seal joint, correct? I'll wait for more input from Navy before I post anything further here.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #3
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    But you're promoting a skim coat of body filler (I hesitate to use the trade name "bondo") after working down the epoxy filler, not trying to bridge lead over an epoxy seal joint, correct? I'll wait for more input from Navy before I post anything further here.
    And yes, a skim coat of epoxy filler is applied over the glue because you don't always get perfect surfaces when applying the glue. Also no, not trying to use the glue as a bridge over lead. Since the lead won't stick, id just use the glue. I just mentioned it because it is an option if he can not get the lead to work.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  4. #4
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Guys Thanks for ALL the inputs but Holy cow lets not argue over my seam.
    Henry Ford put these roofs together with spot welds and then rolled the lip on to the top part of the roof from the cab section and that was what made it water tight, as far as Ford was concerned or as I can see from taking this one a part. My whole reason to lead it in was to produce a weather tight seal along with a nice looking fillet at that seam. I do have a 2 part self leveling seam sealer that is used for auto body repair sitting on my work bench.
    Seam Sealer by 3M - Sealers by Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies

    The lead work the big car company's did was mostly to join quarter panels and such together and they didn't have any rolled lips to in-trap any acid flux ect. I've taken quarters off a camaro, the quarter and roof panels were laid one over the other and spot welded , and leaded over. There were no lips so everything could be cleaned off inside and out .

    I think the biggest thing is just to keep water from seeping in to the seam and causing rust.
    Maybe I should just RATROD this thing and go smoke some tires !

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Navy7797 View Post
    Guys Thanks for ALL the inputs but Holy cow lets not argue over my seam.

    My whole reason to lead it in was to produce a weather tight seal along with a nice looking fillet at that seam. I do have a 2 part self leveling seam sealer that is used for auto body repair sitting on my work bench.
    Seam Sealer by 3M - Sealers by Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies

    I think the biggest thing is just to keep water from seeping in to the seam and causing rust.
    Maybe I should just RATROD this thing and go smoke some tires !
    No-ones arguing.. just expressing opinions.. and you know we all have them and how they smell right?!?!

    Add a few tacks, stiches of weld and use the seam sealer! "SEEMS" like it should work well!

    My other opinion is.... Do NOT rat the truck!!!

    Of course it is yours.. and you can do as you see fit! But to rat it out....

    OHHhhhh the horror!!!
    johnboy and cffisher like this.

  6. #6
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    No-ones arguing.. just expressing opinions.. and you know we all have them and how they smell right?!?!

    Add a few tacks, stiches of weld and use the seam sealer! "SEEMS" like it should work well!

    My other opinion is.... Do NOT rat the truck!!!

    Of course it is yours.. and you can do as you see fit! But to rat it out....

    OHHhhhh the horror!!!
    The Horror, the Horror, yes it would be a GREAT HORROR to rat it out. Its like a Mouse giving an Eagle the finger just before it sinks it's talon's into him,, it would be the last act !
    34_40 and rspears like this.

  7. #7
    36 sedan's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 36 Ford Sedan, 23 T Bucket
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    Quote Originally Posted by Navy7797 View Post
    My whole reason to lead it in was to produce a weather tight seal along with a nice looking fillet at that seam.
    Could you use a non corrosive rosin type solder flux to seal and tin the area, then apply the lead over the tinned areas?

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