Navy, I for one say post up a thread on that bad boy when you have time. I love early war birds. I'm sure I'm not the only one here either.
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Navy, I for one say post up a thread on that bad boy when you have time. I love early war birds. I'm sure I'm not the only one here either.
Earliest staggered shock setup I know of was in the 68 Cobra Jet Mustang.
Navy, enjoyed the plane pics again! Yes, please do a thread if you find the time! That is just beautiful..
I'll offer an opinion on your shock setup.. leave it alone and see what it drives like.. then decide! Hey! You ASKED! :eek::LOL::LOL::LOL:
Yes please post some more plane pics. Beautiful work from what I could see!
And so it begins . Here's some pic's from todays work.
1st a new cross member cut to length. The question for this is how much lean forward and inward for the shocks ? http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps725415c6.jpg
2nd The steering. The pic's show's "tack welded" steering heim joint brackets. The routing of the shafts are what I see as working. What do you think, does it look right ?http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8996efa8.jpghttp://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1e8979d1.jpghttp://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbeb2aeb9.jpghttp://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2ce3e349.jpghttp://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8b389721.jpg
You only need the rear most heim and you can eliminate the rag joint---the steering component companies have u joint assy with a dampner incorporated into the u jpoint---also , I'm sure this is just a mock up pic and you will phase the two upper joints so that they are correctly in phase , other wisw you will get a feedback that's kind of notchy from the steering
Jerry: Thanks for the feed back. I know the rag joint is ugly but does it pose any troubles, its just another item I spent money on and hate to buy something else ? The reason I put it in was to compensate for any movement of the cab when there's frame twist/flex. I don't know I maybe way off with that.
Is the phase of the 2 lower joints correct ?? I don't know whats correct.
I'm looking for an education here as to this items, I like to know the what and whys.
I REALLY do appreciate your in puts !
Here's another look at the new shock mount set up. I'm going with 2 forward of the axle. As they sit they are 6" forward and 4" leaning inward, shocks are fully extended and wheels off the ground. Is this OK or what would be better ??
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse4ac15e2.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8d12451e.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse4ac15e2.jpg
Shocks look fine, maybe tap the top down a few 32nds so it'll lessen the chance of the shocks carrying the weight.
Go here and see a bunch of drive line stuff that'll help, Driveline 101
Gordy, with most of these threads that I follow, including my own, I always learn way more than I ever contribute!! Thus, I look forward to responses regarding suspension, etc. since some of what I learn here may affect how I continue with my own project.:)
I'm certainly no frame or suspension guru of any kind but since you have boxed your frame and added that beefy x-member, I would think you've removed the lion's share of the twisting & flexing, compared to how Henry originally made it. Plus, I highly doubt you'll ever be hauling a 1/2 ton of gravel or a thousand pounds of plywood in it. I say all that because some of your concerns about suspension travel & frame flexing may never be an issue for this truck given how you're probably going to drive it. Just a thought...
As always, looking forward to the next wave of comments & progress. :3dSMILE:
Randy: Some times I just worry to much about everything, I also don't want to screw up to badly if I can prevent it. I'm just wanting to do it the right way, within my means and get an education on it all at the same time. Oh yea and have fun doing it.
Your right I doubt I'll ever haul anything heavy in it or anything at all if I finish out the bed nicely.
Thanks for your inputs !
I agree with Randy that I doubt your frame flexes or twists a lot being boxed and having that nice cross member. Shocks are looking good.
well I guess Driveline 101 explains PHASING of the u joints---
I agree with 34 40 about lowering the shock tops just a wee bit so the weight won't hang on the shoch when truck jacked up off ground
The shock mounting angle really just effects the dampening rates a bit because of the angle ---one of the main oem reasons to angle them is for clearance during full suspension travel and /or clearance for the exhaust over the axle. Once you have them mounted in regards to there travel length, I would suggest fabbibg a mock up tube at the shock ride height length so the truck chassis sets at that level while you do the drive line angle work---the spring perches don't look like they are welded to the axle housing tubes yet??? that is good as you can tip the housing for the u joint angle before you tack them-----
40FordDeluxe, Jerry, thanks for the feed back. I'm getting smarter every time you leave feed back. Its a good thing I have cutoff wheels, plasma cutter, band saws, saws-alls and a hack saw or two because ( the spring perches don't look like they are welded to the axle housing tubes yet??? ) I'll need them to do some cutting. I aligned the rear straight to the trans, no thought of load ! Maybe no thought at all. I really appreciate your help, I'll get this truck right if I have to build it twice !
you won't have to cut them off---you can get tapered spring wedges at any spring shop---works for drive shaft angle or front end caster on leaf spring axles
And I appreciate your comments on our suggestions---so many just blunder on with no feed back
Jerry's right on the shims. You can also get the shims with a hole in the center so you can bolt them under your bottom spring plate so it is a more permanent piece.
Thanks guys. I've looked at some shims on the web and think I might just put my Mill to work and machine a set, plenty of raw steel laying around the shop. It only got up to 39 degrees in the shop today so I didn't get a lot done, just welded the new cross member. Have a great weekend everybody !
Today's activity involves the radiator mounting and I'm looking for inputs. There should be some rubber spacers/bushings at ? I have a bolt/spring kit for the lower rad mounts. Here's some pic's. Do I bolt the rad support mount tight on the rad or ?
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps20fb0bdc.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf26a3e5d.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps51b9062e.jpg
Another question, my fan shroud is plastic of some sort and came with 4 sheet metal screws for mounting. I'm thinking of drill and tap and use 10-32 screws maybe 6 instead of 4.http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdd6d3dce.jpg
I use a rubber pad on the bottom and top mounts just to keep some of the vibration from working on the welds in the radiator. As for the fan, 6-10/32 screws with nylock nuts should do fine IMO
Gordy,
I overlooked your questions on this one. On mine I used the standard spring loaded mounts at the bottom and put a rubber pad nominal 3x3x1/8" thick under each of the two mounting tabs at the bottom. The top of mine has a pair of adapter plates that hook to the Carolina Customs hood top mounting bars that brace back to the firewall. I didn't use any rubber at the top.
For the fan, mine came from PRC with a shroud made from a sheet of aluminum with a 16" hole matching the fan diameter. At the top and bottom they bent over a nominal 1/2" tab to close the space, and on the sides the made a similar 90 degree bend with a nominal 3/4" tab, then bent out a 1/4" mounting flange which aligns with the two mounting channels on the sides of the radiator. This gives a little "box" that sits 1/2" off of the radiator core, matches the core area, and has mounting flanges that are held to the radiator with four 10-32 screws near the corners. I've had zero problems with over heating using this shroud, and my unintentional "test" was forgetting to hit my "ACC" button one day, and noticing the pegged temp gauge after idling in traffic for a few minutes :eek::o:o Punched the "ACC" power, and watched the temp gauge start falling within ten seconds, and sitting at 190F within less than a minute.:D Proved the goodness of a shrouded fan to me!!
I've a PRC radiator with a flange around the edges but no excess to the back side of the flange so it's screws or machine sdcrews into tapped holes to hold the fan assy on. Its a 17" and the shroud covers all the back side of the radiator, so I guess that'll be plenty. With aluminum I always worry about vibration and wear. The bottom mounting is all set just like yours but the side ? I have to keep the side mount bolts from vibrating in the radiator frame/shell.
Now that I think about it, maybe I should put a washer, than a nut, tighten and than use a rubber bushing over the bolt inside the bracket along with a nut to secure it.
Tell me about " Carolina Customs hood top mounting bars" , replaces original hood hinges ?
Thanks for the input !!!!
How about riv-nuts?
Jerry I was thinking of those or something like that I used on airplanes. I guess I'll Google it up and find a source. D#m it sometimes I just want to rush things instead of waiting to get the right stuff. It sure would look and last better if I used them. Thanks for the input.
I only mentioned them because I would bet you knew what they were and how to use them
I was simply pointing out that my top radiator/grille brace does double duty. Stock '33/34's had the cowl brace pair that went from the top of the radiator back to the top of cowl, but I'm using a pair of billet aluminum units that I attached to the top outside of the radiator, running back to the outside of the cowl. The hood top has bars that mount four pins that latch the hood top down to the mounting bars. Scroll down to the "Hood Top Only Latch Kit" - single opening hood latch kit Triple opening hood hinge/latch kit hood brace kit No bearing on your '40 installation, but they do sell some other nifty stuff.
Roger and Jerry, Thanks for the feed back.
If you mount a radiator from the 4 corners( two botton/two top) instaed of the factory used tri point mounting, you will eventually have a failure from frame twisting as the tri point system does put the radiator in a bind like the 4 points---sorta like the 4 link rears vs the 3 link system--
That's why it's critical to use the spring loaded bottom bolts, so that the flex of the frame compresses the springs as opposed to torquing the radiator. At least on mine, the top braces also provide enough flex that I'm not concerned with twisting the radiator tank. Of course I may be wrong, but I'm not worrying about it.
I worry about everything ! Some times I just have to get over it. I went to install my donor flexplate on my engine 2 day and as usual with my free parts it was wrong, too big. So here's the question. I have 2 choices for a new flexplate, standard for $30. or Heavy Duty for $90. It seems like it'd be a big pain to have to pull the motor for a bad plate in a few years. I guess what I'm asking have you guys had any troubles with the standard plates ? Thanks
Why is it too big???? There were some different diameters /number of teeth---but all it took was using the correct starter location-----
Like the other have mentioned the I’m not sure what you mean by being too big…….The flex plate won’t fit in the bellhousing or the starter interferes.
To expand a bit on what Roger posted.
If it’s the case of the starter interfering, there are different starters used for the 168 and 153 tooth flex plates. The one for the 168 tooth flex plate uses a starter that has the mounting bolts staggered, and the starter for the 153 tooth flex plate has starter bolts located straight across from each other.
Just a bit of FYI…..the 1958-1962 283 blocks came with a 168 tooth flywheel (the flex plate you currently have) and the block is drilled for the staggered bolt starter. They do not have the second bolt hole drilled for the 153 tooth straight bolt starter. The second bolt hole can be drilled and tapped in the block if you need it however.
As far as needing the HD flex plate, I would say probably not as long as the one you have is in good condition. My experience is that flex plates normally go bad in the teeth area due to improperly adjusted starters. I have replaced a few over the years that were cracked out in the center area where they bolt to the crank flange, but that is fairly rare. With a 283 I wouldn’t worry too much about ripping the center out.
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Thanks for the inputs guys ! Here's what I did. I put a new flywheel on the motor to match the starter I had, it was cost effective. The block does have 3 holes for starter mounting . The way I see it the starter should be able to turn over a 283 even with the smaller flywheel.
Here's today question, its about venting the crank case.
I have the vent cap that is bolted to the back top side of the block, {see pic with no cap installed}. I have a vent cap in each valve cover.
Do I need to keep the block vent or can I block it off with some nice turned aluminum plug . ?? OR should I run the hose that originally came off the block vent to the carb where a PVC valve would hook up ? And what about a PCV valve ?
Here's some pic's.http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5f356c78.jpghttp://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdd0d24b3.jpg
engine starter combo
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8429ff90.jpg
If you're using this on the street primarily, then I'd vote yes to the PCV Valve on one side and a Breather Cap in the opposite valve cover, then plug the intake with a welch cap. I like breathing clean air thank you very much! LOL..
If you're heading for the track primarily, then use the vented intake as well as vent the valve covers. And yes, you've labeled the hose connections right on the Holley. There should be 1 more under the front bowl also. Is yours plugged?
Maybe this'll help too?
You will definitely want to run a PVC valve. There are a couple of options, but if it were me I would do as 34_40 suggests and run the valve in one valve cover and the a breather cap on the other, then tap a freeze plug in the vent hole.
If you elect to run the PVC valve from the vent hole in the block you need to verify that the vapor separator (the round can looking thing in the lifter valley) is in place or you will suck oil into the intake. Normally you only need to run the PVC valve in the back of the block if you are running the early non-vented valve covers and have the fill tube/breather on the intake..
http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps1102e4dc.jpg
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Positive Crankcase Vent
Poly Vinyl Cloride
And the vent on the side of the metering plate is used on Ford applications----the GM type use the bottom one
why are you running coolant hoses off the back of the manifold??
I knew that....my fat fingers didn't :LOL:
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