Sorry to hear of the work stopping, but I'm all for watching you construct an old air plane. Especially any early war type plane. Oh, congrats on getting back to work too. :LOL:
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Sorry to hear of the work stopping, but I'm all for watching you construct an old air plane. Especially any early war type plane. Oh, congrats on getting back to work too. :LOL:
.... and appropriately, since that's Navy's build!Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Navy, I agree 100% that an airplane build thread would be a very cool addition to this forum. Others may disagree, but if you start a build thread in some other place please let me know where, as I'd love to follow.
I don't think I'd be starting a thread for this , this would be the wrong forum. Its a job that I love doing but its not anything that gets me excited like a good looking, tire smoking, great handling, Fast and louder than hell Hotrod. I will post a few pic's along the way just to share.
OOOOOOOOOOpps should of said WW1, I am currently finishing reading Unbroken(WW2) and made the mistake! I do like the WW2 planes though! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
X 2! Please.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Well, if you feel this is the wrong forum, please tell us where you will be posting it along. In all honesty, this forum has a non hot rod area and this build will fit in great!Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy7797
What do you think ? I'm replacing the original hood latch with one from a Olds 88. My plan is to put the latch/catch/springloaded with cable release part on the hood so that I can use the original hood release. It will be mounted in a plate of sorts that replaces the original cross member /latch part. Inputs welcome.
old latch
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5246a20f.jpg
new latch
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps3d8cefb7.jpg
Truck grill cross member with latch pin
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6bacb6af.jpg
I think I see what you're trying to do and it looks like it'll work just fine. Besides... you've already tackled harder jobs than ths one! LOL..
Navy, it'll work either way but when I see that solid upright part across the body portion it seems to me it would be in my belly every time I leaned over the engine, especially trying to get into the back back to work on something. I think I'd put it on the hood where I could bump my head on it instead.... Latch on the body, projecting bolt on the hood makes more sense to me.
Good point Roger.. Pun Intended!
I don't think I'd prefer that banging into my skull.. Heavy blanket would cover it up and make it tolerable to my padded belly.. LOL..
Started to make parts for the hood latch.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps520a35b2.jpg
POOR hood fit
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps69eb5144.jpg
Navy,
Not to belabor the point, but it seems to me that the flat latch portion that has the cable release would normally be on the fixed body panel, not the moving hood. Seems to me that every latch assembly like that has the pin portion on the hood, not on the body.
Roger your right about the normal orientation, but its a mechanical thing and doesn't care where its put. I have looked at this for some time and to install it the normal way I would have to cut up the fender cross brace and do to much fabbing. It all so wouldn't allow the use of the original hood release. I also didn't want to have the release cable running in the engine bay and no handle in the cab.
Just don't forget where you put it, when you are under the hood. Could end up with a nasty goose egg.
I think that's why a lot of people use the old VW style latch unit for the compact size:
Attachment 63049
Sounds like you've thought it through and have the fab work well planned! It'll work either way, and you've got to be aware of the pin portion either way. Looking forward to the fab process, and seeing the truck another step toward driving!
Thanks for the input Roger. I had bought an after market latch that was smaller but it was to weak IMHO. I'm using an junk yard part. Trying to get the hood and fenders and grill to line up is really a pain in the #$%#. I don't know how these truck ever rolled off the assembly line.
Have a great weekend everybody !
One step closer to ?? I got the hood cross member welded in and put the hood on the truck. Fitment is a bit better than I thought it would be, but its still way off from where it needs to be.
I need to bend the cross member in at the bottom so the hood doesn't come down on the fenders. Thinking a bit of heat on the member to aid this.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa6230bd3.jpg
Navy, I've never done it, but seems to me that I read somewhere (likely on here....) that you set the body, mount the front clip and hood for the right fit at the cowl, then mount the fenders to match up with the hood? Bet Uncle Bob can offer some experience in the proper order to retain sanity.
Roger, I've seen it explained a few times on the HAMB as how you just described it.
More hood /front end work. Here's a couple pic's of the safety latch and hood plate/brace thingy.
I wanted to use the original safety latch because of its small size and its a 40 part.
Here's the results so far.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2a5aa520.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0f6321f0.jpg
Looking good!
I don't envy you, Navy. I read through two different descriptions of the trials, tribulations and step-by step process of aligning the '40 front fenders and it's a chore, for sure!
Aligning the '37 is no cakewalk either!!!:CRY::CRY::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I've had many rod builders tell me the 37-40 ford cars, and 39-42 ford trucks were nearly the hardest of any old vintage auto, to get the sheet metal fitting nice.
I read through three links on descriptions of the process, and the common thread in all of them is that you 1) align the hood with the cowl, paying attention to all the gaps, and measuring carefully to ensure that it's straight & centered; 2) align the hood to body lines, including the trim, as that's what draws the eye; and 3) then align the front fenders to the hood. One guy says that he doesn't even think about starting the hood/fenders until the door gaps are finished. I expect that a truck is a bit different from a coupe or sedan where that rear fenders are more fixed, and I've not done one before, but it seems to me that it would be pretty easy to get into a real tangle trying to align the hood to the fenders & grille, when there are so many parts of the hood alignment that are critical. Just my $0.02, and here's the links -
Street Rodder Tech Article - 1940 Ford Sheet Metal | The H.A.M.B.
1940 Ford Hood Alignment - The Ford Barn
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/vi...=14&Topic=1512
Good luck on the process, I know you'll nail it eventually, and I'll not bother you again about the process.
THANKS for the inputs guys. I really need all the input I can get, sometimes a slap up side the head also works. Its a Nightmare for sure trying to get this right.
i leave the inner fenders loose when doing the early fords. the fender will bow quite a bit to match the hood. but like said the hood is first. cant move the cowl . like the 37 it can be a pia. 37 is worse because of the 3 piece hood .
Trying to make the hood fit the cowl 100% correct is nearly impossible. Had the hood off and on 6-7 times today. Had to elongate some of the hinge holes in the cab to get the hood down to the cowl, its still sitting a bit high. To mount the the fenders out of the way of the hood I'll have to change the mounting holes in the fender or running board in order to drop the rear of the fender about 1/4 to 3/8 inch and than rise the front about 3/4 inch. I just hate making holes bigger than they were originally intended. Theres sure to be more I need to learn .
Still working the front sheet metal an still scratching m head. I had a chance to get a Quick Change rear today. New with bearings, axles, seals retainers and the tags and book. Speedway list this rear at 3200.00 I got this out of a guys garage for 2k. Very happy, just slight surf rust on the tubes.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2e9f8351.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse6d006a4.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd7f16a04.jpg
Very cool rear diff for the truck!
Nice quick change! From everything I've seen and heard on these early fords as far as sheet metal alignment, is basically there were no tight specs at the factory, at all. That's why some doors don't fit well on some bodies. We repainted a 39 Ford when I worked in a body shop years ago. When we got to fitting the front sheet metal, we welded a new inner lip on and then drilled new holes. We had to add some to the back of the hood to get the hood to meet the grill and for the hood to sit correct at the back near the cowl. It was a PITA, but I learned a lot, bled a lot too. :LOL:
Yup it looks like the hood is going to need a little custom work to look good. Thanks for sharing your experience, I was beginning to think I had some really bad parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
I stopped by the paint store today to get some paint so I could paint the motor (again), trans and the rear. I wanted to get a Single Stage Urethane in my color of choice. Well I came home with nothing. The paint I choose is a 2015 Ford Bronze Fire and it only comes in 2 stage. Price per gal. $900. I want a paint that won't chip to easy, so that leaves that one out. Unless I can use it and cover it with Chip Guard from TCP Global, Any thoughts ? This would be for the Rear and Trans only. As a uneducated car painter this is driving me nuts. Now I know why I see a lot of primer only builds, the color process is mind boggling.
Navy, I'd go to my local independent paint guy, who's been in the business and painting actively for 50 years and ask him to mix me something in a single stage that's as close as he can get to the shade of the Bronze fire, leaving out any metallic, but that's just me.
Back when I worked in a body shop, we shot many engines with a single stage sikkens. It held up really nice, and didn't break the bank. On my 72 Camaro, I painted the engine a midnight blue metallic pearl. It looked sweet. It held up ok even after being put in a couple different projects over a few years.
Had to do a revision to the hood latch plate. I also moved the safety catch back to its original location. Here's some pic's.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...pswl9pv5z1.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...pshs42vf7a.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psz84ggx3r.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psqkf5aja7.jpg
Here's my idea of a hood latch spring, spring centers in the latch and the pin goes up into the latch. It works good but I'm always open for your inputs.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psduos4bjn.jpg
Should save you from catching your elbow on the pin
Todays update> I've picked my color. Painted the tranny and will move on to the rear and engine as weather allows. The color in the trans pic doesn't look like it really is but the others pic's shown are good.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psh14cd9px.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5r8b2cxi.jpg
Plan on having black valve covers with this paint. pic isn't to good.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...pshzechbbz.jpg
Before it's all said and done I may add some more metallic.
Great color. smooth and shiny is looking good. Thanks for the update pics too.
