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Thread: 55 Wagon Progress
          
   
   

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  1. #736
    MP&C's Avatar
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    Jerry, thanks. Yep, someone else already pointed that out, I think all the stickers had us misled/confused in some sort of "this side out" fashion. Something else to do Saturday morning..
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    Robert

  2. #737
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    I think your flywheel/flexplate is on backwards


    I hadn't noticed before, but I'd say Jerry is on target. Those six "bumps" drilled for the (3) converter bolts should be with the high side towards the converter, not towards the engine as shown in the picture above.

    Good eye, Mr. Clayton.
    jerry clayton, stovens and MP&C like this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #738
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    Is this an external balanced crank assembly?? The reason I ask is that I can see crank flange thru the hole in flex plate---------but if you look at where the TCI sticker is you'll notice that there isn't a hole there----- only 5 holes---means this is flexplate for an external balance like for a 400sbc or a 454 bbc
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  4. #739
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    Stroked motor with 400 crank..
    Robert

  5. #740
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    and it was balanced with that flex plate???????

    Did the balance guy use dowel pin in the crank? where you have the punch?
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  6. #741
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    Jerry, you got me. She bought the motor from local guy that had it built for his Camaro project by a reputable machinist in this area. The Camaro project never got off the ground, so it was still sitting on an engine stand as when he brought it home.. Don't know if she thought it needed a new flex plate due to teeth issues on the old one, or what. The flex plate was new in the package among the parts slated for this build, so she got information from somebody on which one to get..
    Robert

  7. #742
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    Does it have an external balance front dampner?

    I would definitely suggest you see if you can get balance info on the cranl assembly including specific specs as to what flywheel/front dampner/internal/external balnce --------

    If you can easily remove oil pan and the crank counterweight has 3 or 4 inch holes 2 or 3 inches deep it is probably internal balance and that flexplate won't work-

    Or you can fire it up and if it shakes like all hells coming loose----------

    Wish I was closer to assist you
    Did you get some of that snow?????????
    Last edited by jerry clayton; 02-05-2016 at 07:12 PM.
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  8. #743
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    Will be pulling the trans and flex plate in the morning. Would there be any key indicators looking at the back of the crank or at the harmonic balancer to tell one way or the other? Didn't really want to open the engine up if we don't have to..


    We got just enough snow to get the roads wet.. My driveway resembles a mud bog after the last snow, so it can't go away from here soon enough
    Last edited by MP&C; 02-05-2016 at 07:53 PM.
    Robert

  9. #744
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    Are you kinda out in the country/rural area( can you see DC from there?) lived in Alexadrania? for a while I was based at DC in 1969-------

    Most obvious would be probably if it has an external front dampner it will be external balance ------IF it has a neutral balance front, chances increase to it have been balanced internal and would need a neutral flex plate.

    Its sorry circumstance but seems that the people that balance cranks are all wierd in there ways/methods-----thats why I have my own balancer.

    just so you know-front dampners can be either the outr ring or the internal hub that is offset balance-take some close up pics and post them--the heavy weighted portion will be 180 from the offset on the rear crank flange----
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  10. #745
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    Thanks, will get some pics tomorrow, thanks for the help. We're about an hour SSE of DC (crow flying), think PAX River NAS.
    Robert

  11. #746
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    Flex plate PN, it does have hole #6 behind the TCI decal...








    Crank flange looks like it's been notched, could this be part of someone's balancing efforts?








    Harmonic balancer











    Thanks for any pointers....
    Robert

  12. #747
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    that looks normal---------but I would suggest that since the body isn't on already--------fire the engine up and see if it shakes---If it runs smooth ok, but if it shakes, she needs some balance work/parts. I'd start with asking for more exact info on the engine build----
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  13. #748
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    First off, thanks to all who let me know the flex plate was in backwards. I don't normally wrench on drivetrains, so glad to find out before the body was on the frame. I guess all the decals gave the false sense of "this side out". Wouldn't you know, when I turned it over, the instructions for dummies was right there in plain sight!











    All back together....











    Working on another header clearance issue...











    Removed the factory carriage bolts, they will be replaced with some grade 8 hex head bolts, and to add more clearance we'll get rid of the nuts inside and use some locking heli-coils..

















    ....for much better clearance.

















    More parts added....

















    Robert

  14. #749
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    Regarding header clearance, I have less than 1/4", (More like 3/16 at best!) between one of the primary headers and the boxed frame on the left side (driver-side for US people!) on my '55 F100 with 429 and had no problems - even when I tore up the left hand engine mount.
    '55 F100 hot-rod (owned 40 years)
    '66 Thunderbird Town Landau
    '64 Anglia (project)

    Morris Marina ute runaround.

  15. #750
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    Just trying to play it safe....while we have access.


    Well the stainless lock nuts showed up today, so we pulled the third member, cleaned the mounting surfaces, installed a new gasket and torqued things down.








    We also had taken delivery of the Explorer brake kit that gives us shoes inside the rotor for the parking brake. So we have some Lincoln Versailles parts if anyone needs some...











    Went digging through the brake hose selection at the local Napa store, Guy Auto Parts. This should work for the rear, front hoses should be here Saturday.








    Now we need a bracket to anchor the hose end... We came up with this design using 16 gauge CRS, and planned to clamp it under the U-bolts...














    Now looking at it, I'm not sure I want the U-bolts off the axle housing, and may just cut the ears off and plug weld the bracket to the housing. Thoughts?
    Robert

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