keep it Matt. I'm just around the corner from hoping back into my build, now that the weather is dry!
Dave sounds like your going solo again! Sometimes it's nice to play your own music!:D
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keep it Matt. I'm just around the corner from hoping back into my build, now that the weather is dry!
Dave sounds like your going solo again! Sometimes it's nice to play your own music!:D
Gonna stay that way this time.. Tired of trying to help people out and getting nothing but screwed for my efforts!!!! Time to go back to just taking care of Dave, I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Sorry to hear that, Dave. It sounded like you were really enjoying yourself over there. But you're right; we have to take care of ourselves first.
I like your car, Matt! Looks like you've got some serious brain juices flowing; keep up the good work.
Dave, I have had to do the same thing as you..two times.Only thing that was supposed to be done that I could not do is the paint. The shop wants money...then your car sits...and sits...then they want more money and give excuses! I brought it home and I have got more done in a couple months then had been done in a year!
Good Luck
Nope, wasn't my car... I was working there trying to help a guy out getting a shop going.. Guess I couldn't lower my standards enough to meet his, so I packed up and left. Saw a couple of cars that were not done correctly, too many corners cut in order to get the customer's money. Tried to convince the owner that if you take care of the quality the money will follow, and he didn't believe me. I'm old fashioned I guess, just refuse to sacrifice quality work for a quick buck...Quote:
Originally Posted by moter
Well said Dave.. Quality is first on my list at my shop.. And your very right about the money following.. Never have any lack of work here.. Plus it's your name on the work..Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
A short weekend update on my T project. got the headers built (muffler is just stuck on to see if I like it) drag link and stearing arms fabricated. A few more things to do yet, but the chassis will be coming apart again for finish work and paint before TOO long now.
Russ
LotsaToys, is that a combination mechanical electronic fuel injection systen ur using like a converted englese system of some sort ???
Nope. I built that myself. the TBs are from 2 Susuki GSXR 600s with conciderable modifications. hand made manifold etc. actually uses all stock Caddy sensors (except TPS) fuel rail and injectors, so I guess you could say it's stock, except for the air inlets :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWizard455
Russ
Very impressive!:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by lotsatoys
I thought i had some reconition of that system from somewhere. Like YOU lotsatoys, i have and have had LOTS OF TOYS, among them a number of motorcycle and one of which was a Suzuki GSXR750. Nice work man. If ya don't mind me asking WHAT or who's product did u use to manage that system and is it mechanical or electronic, or perhps some combination of both ?
N E way, good work and a very unique project to boot, im anxious to see the finished project, i expect it will b awsome.
I have always gotten a lot of feedback on my BMW, some of it really negative from the import purists as well as the domestic purists. Why did u ruin a BMW like that, WHY did u use a Buick V8, or why a ford 9" rear. All easy questions, Why a BMW ? 1st cause i LOVE the look of the car and the luxury features it has and i was able to keep. Why a Buick V8 ? Cause Im a Buick V8 fanatic. Im a drag racer and seemingly unbeknownst to many drag racers even, drag racing is about QUICK, not so much Fast. QUICK accelleration is a function of TQ and or TQ multiplication and the traction to make use of same. OF all the V8 engines ever mass produced the 400/430/455 Buick is the most TQ laden at much the lowest rpm, My Stage 1 455 based engine in my car began life as a 360bhp@5000 and 510lb/ft @2800rpm. I ported the heads past what the out the box Stage 2 Heads were while keeping the Stage 1 exhaust port which is diff from the Stage 2 which requires special custom made headers. As it is in the car it makes 541bhp @ 5760rpm n 562lb/ft TQ @ 3780 RPM with a hydraulic flat tappet cam om premium pmp gas. PLUS, a 400/430/455 Buick V8 dressed in cast from the factory is just a shade over 50lbs heavier than a dressed in cast from the factory SBC. Add aluminum intake, headers etc and the Buick is nearly 9lbs less than an SBC in the same dress and had a cube capacity of 543", mine is just 464 tho. Why a Ford 9'' ? Cause the 9'' has the best selection of gear ratios and u can have a number of diff center sections set up with diff ratios for easy gear changes. additionally, the 9'' is as strong an axle as u can get at its weight. a DANA 60 is a mite sturdier but its also nearly 60lbs heavier too. Mine is suspended on a Mancini/DC Mopar Super Stock Leaf spring suspension w/ Adjustable pre load links for a 68/69 A-Body Cuda factory racer. This because this is an easily adjustable no brainer tried and true rear suspension system thats simple, durable and WORKS.
More than all the negativity tho, i get a whol;e lot of encouragement from car crafters much about how unique a car i have, i bvelieve when completed ur ride will b every bit as unique and appealing as mine is if not more so.
I'll be using a Holly Commander CPU on this motor, with mixed feelings about the unit. I had one already, so that clinched the deal however. There's a GM 7730 (TPI unit) on another Northstar I have and it works really well also. A guy over on the Fiero Forum set that one up for me.
I totally agree with your reasoning on cars. Build what YOU want. the way YOU want it.
keep the shiny side up,
Russ
Thanx Russ, i also tried saome after market fuel injection system management on rides of my own as well as other folks rides.
I used the Edelbrock TBI conversion kit, bout 1500 bucks with the headers and valve covers and breather lid. This system converts a TBI system to a multi point batch fire system which slightly increases the cfm capacity as well as fuel economy and a bit of perf improvement to boot.
On a customer ride i tried the Accell DFI system. This system is rather complex and expensive to say the least but once done and mapped its hard to beat and is adaptable to a wide range of EFI systems including home built units. A friend at the last Buick Nationals i attended used 3 halfs of Holley 1050 Dominators a throttle bodies to make a tri-power EFI system with the DFI management system, w/ 40 lb/hr injectors on a 274 cube normally aspirated v6 Buick engine in a 3750lb 87 Regal T-Type this car managed a respectable and consistant low 10 sec et's(10.2-10.3). Budget permitting u may want to check into this as to how u coud apply it to ur system.
As u have undoubtably found out, there is a BIG trend of installing NorthStar drive trains in FIEROs with great success. Many of these ride have stone stock drivelines and Northstar management systems, quiet as church mice and run consistant 11 sec et's on real street tires not DOT stickies.
As i said in an earlier post, i have a friend in the motor who has 2 of these beasts, one with a stock(300bhp) system from a Seville STS, the other with a much moded 444bhp Northstar from the XLR-V roadster but unlike the XLR_v this car also uses the Seville/ETC FWD 4L80E transaxle rather than the 4L85E rear transaxle used in the C5/C6 vettes and XLR's. This car normally on motor runs consistant 10's and he plans to build a 2 stage fogger spray system for this engine which as u may know is a supercharged engine. Again, jus some info I have on diff aspplication of the Northstar system that u may b able to expand upon and help u better complete ur ride...again, thanx for the info and on ur FI system and best of luck with the project, as i say, i expect it to b a rarely found and unique combination to say the least with performance like as not better than either of us might suspect now...
Do they look like this? :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWizard455
88 with widebody kit, 300 VIN9 N* , 5 speed trans, custom dash etc. I really enjoyed building this one, but it's time to move on. want to buy it??? ha ha. 12K would take it home.
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL827.../375590838.jpg
Russ
Neither of the ones my friend has do, one is Cadillac Adriatic Blue, the other black, both are Stock Body GT's and still have the above the roof functional air scoop. both have the complete corresponding NorthStar electronics with lap top programing ports, as well as custom dashes, from the exterior, save for exhaust, tires and wheels both cars appear to b STOCK Fiero GT's. The Supercharged car, the black 1, has a rather knarley exhaust note n flowmasters, but the blue stocker isn't any more noisey than i'de imagine it was as a 2.8 chevy v6 stock.
As for the purchase of ur machine, that is an awfully fair price for the work i can imagine u have crafted into the conversion, im certain that i nor u could duplicate the car for that now. But, i must respectfully decline, I am strictly old school, carbed, normally aspirated for all my hot rods, including my bike, that i BUILD. an electronically controled HOT ROD requires tools and equipment i do not wish to purchase, and they require really expensive periphial equipment as well. Having 4 personal hot rods, my Ninja, a 78 4dr Buick Lesabre GS Custom, 77 5spd 455 H.O Pontiac Trans Am, an 88 Stage 2 455 Buick BMW 327A Post coupe, things that are far too expensive to fit comfortably within my budget for hot rodding. Besides, i also hot rod and drag race my work truck/tow vehicle/parts chaser pic up truck, which I am currently replacing. Had a 92 Silverado which burned, replacing it with a 96 GMC Sierra 1500. GMC is currently 4.3 Vortech V6 w/4L65E n 3.73 posi. the plan is to replace same with the Carbed 406'' SBC n TH350 Trans/2500 verter from the Silverado. Insurance gave 5500 and the salvage. So far i have 2500 in the replacement with just the driveline swap to go. Besides, the wife swears before bean and bacon if i bring home another hot rod, one of the others and or ME have to go....LOL
Nice car BTW tho....
That Trans Am sounds pretty spiffy, MR Wizard. Lets see some pics!
Thought I'd dust off the "Z" and work on it a little this weekend.
I didn't get it dusted off, I didn't get any work done on the "Z" either , bit I did get these stands built.
I haven't had a free weekend for months, but this weekend I had some time so I started to assemble the car stands I've been cutting out a little here & a little there.
I welded til noon, then cut down some trees & hung a door for Jenni & J.D. then came back and worked on the stands some more.
This afternoon I finished them up & jacked up the "Z". Made some adjusters out of 3/4'' bolts, so I can level them. I wanted to mark them so I could set the stand back on the floor in the same spot each time & have them be level, so I made some decals to keep them in the right locations. Also, the stand decks are 15''x15'' , just the right size for the scales, so I can weigh it on the stands if I get the urge. It's no hoist, but it should make working on the "Z" a little more convenient.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...aroStands6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...aroStands4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...aroStands3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...aroStands2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...aroStands1.jpg
Nice set of stands, going to make working on the car a whole lot better. Never have scaled on a set of stands, but as long as they're nice and level sure no reason it won't work!
Wow it sure is looking good.
What is the weight that you are shooting for?
Kurt
I need some tall stands for my rat rod.. working inside the cab, I keep hitting my head on the roof/ roof support... eventually it'll either be dented or I'll have a concussion :LOL:
being theres no floor, it sure would be nice if it was a little taller
Thanks Dave, Kurt. It's at 1455 as it sits, but there's a lot O' missing parts yet. I'm roughly guessing somewhere in the low 3g's, but that's just a guess. At one time I piled all the available parts in and on top of the car, figured in the 68 lbs. for the fiberglass front end and myself and came up will 2200 lbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by vara4
That was bare iron block & heads, and
still no engine internals, radiator, drive shaft, tin work, all fluids or pro charger and a list of other misc items. I don't see any way possible to keep it under 3,000. Just have to crank up the boost to compensate I guess. :LOL:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2..._Panorama1.jpg
even incomplete that looks just plain nasty, as in MEAN n Nasty, nice, love to see THAT beast of a maro, complete, toolin down the road.
Any final thoughts about what color it will be ?
BTW, Falcon, i didn't ignore ur photo requests of the Trans Am, my computer crashed recently, i have a new machine and tho i was able to recover my original hard drive with all my documents and pictures and have it ijnstalled in my new machine as additional storage space, danged if i've figured how to import from IT to main storage on the new machine or import out of it to something like the forum...give me a bit n i'll get it all figured out, in the meantime there are already pictures of the Bmer, the Trans Am, my silverado, AND my Lesabre on this and other threads around the forum, Pontiac Big Block, Nitrous Oxide and i believe engine talk.
A shot of my Trans am's engine bay i hope, new machine, havin issues trying to import from the old machines hard drive out in attachments.
Another shot of the TA. still std bore, but now with ported 6H heads w/ 1.71 vs 1.66 exh vlvs, comp cams flat tappet solid 290 x 304 .594 x .587 106* x 108* 3200-6500rpm, Tremec TKO600 5spd/ 2.64 1st/ .64 5th, 27.6" frt x 28 x 11.5 x 15 MT ET Streets rr on 3" x 15" frnt n 10" x 15" rr Weld Drag Lite Classics.
ooooppppps, my bad. told ya i was ewxperience new computer teething issues right ?
Tha last was the same as the previos pic. Soooooo, how bout THIS!!
a couple other shots of the engine bay.....
Well Im currently building an 84 GMC s-15. I was just going to buy an s-10 and put a small block in it and that was going to be the end of it. Well I came across an 84 s-15 that had been backhalfed and already had a small block in it. One thing led to another and next thing I knew I had bought a sand blaster, taken my truck completely apart( I mean completely rear end, control arms, cab, etc etc) and was sandblasting the frame to my truck in my drive way. Well i've painted it and put it back together finally after who knows how long. All I have left to do is wire everything up,(I already have the new harness), my interior, body work, and paint. So I still have a long way to go but I have bought everything I need already so all I really have left to do is finish putting it together and do the body work and paint it. The hard part is finding time to do it because I work mon through sat. Its a fun project i've been working on for quite some time and it feels good to be getting close to being done. Even though we all know that we never consider it "done" in our eyes.
Sounds like a cool project, Rob. Post some pics, we'd like to see it! That's a good lookin beast, Mr Wizard. I love the looks of the old T/As. That was everyone's dream car when I was in high school.
Sound like it may b a somewhat popular conversion but with so many way that u can go in the details ROB, i expect u'll have one heck of a nice machine. As Falcon said and i second, post some pics, during construction, the rest of us may b able to impart some input that'll make it even better....
Keep at and " U'LL GETERDONE!!!!!!!"
I'm leaning toward dark blue, but I haven't given it a lot of thought yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWizard455
might i suggest 2001 Cadillac Adriatic Metalic Blue ?
thats the color of my Seville STS. if ya like blue its a dark rich blue that will appeal to ya.
They are a neat set of stands Pro,,what height are they?They look the same as the top ..15 inches in height too?? I need to build a set like that to put under the Customline..Quote:
Originally Posted by pro70z28
They are 18'' tall, 20'' when I have it on the scales.
Gary--I'm with Evolo--what type jack do you use to lift the car that high? I have a set of hunter alignment stands about that size and hight but you use a lift to raise the car and then put them under the wheels.
Jerry
Heres a few pics I took about a year or so ago. I'll charge my camera and take more recent one and some up close pics of the backhalfed part of the frame. The pic of my cap and front clip is somewhat new but I've still done more since I;ve taken it. I'll put more up soon.
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...30a9a01875.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...0a03021e46.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...6f0156c885.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...2ef6e56ed1.jpg
an early in MY ownership pic of the TA and a pic of the cam card for the cam presently in the engine. don't know if i ever noted it but the Borg Warner Super T10 is in the storage with the other removed OEM parts, replaced by a Tremec TKO 600 5spd manual w/ 2.64 1st and .64 5th; 4th is 1-1.
Also, the original 3.42 posi gear set has been replaced 1st w/ 3.23 n now with 3.08. Tires rear are 28 x 11.5 x 15 MT ET Streets and tho a single stage wet plate in THIS pic, car now has a 2 stage wet plate totalin 250bhp on both stages as well as a spun/trued stock HEI dist w/ GM heavy duty bronze breaker, MSD 7al2 Ignition, blaster 2 coil, 3 step retard module, 2 step rev control, dial adjust launch RPM control
I cheated a little. I jacked it up as high as the floor jack would go, put the tripod stands under it, let the jack down, set a 6''x6'' block of wood on the jack and raised it the rest of the way. Not the safest I know, but I have plans to fix that soon. Probably won't come down off the stands for a good long time, at least until the firewall is done.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Had a little time today to work on the "Z". I straightened up a couple places on the firewall so I'd have a straight clean edge to start rebuilding. Then I made one of the two wells the intercooler tubes will pass through. I might use this one or I may try another approach. I'd like the mating surface to be a little smoother than this one. [shrinker sorta' wrinkled it a little]. This is my first attempt at any ''real'' metal shaping so there may be a few trial & error attempts on this deal.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rtubewell1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rtubewell2.jpg
Gary that's some damb fine work in my opinion. I wish I had something close to what your already doing. Looks like it will work just fine as is!