I've been pondering the idea of putting hydraboost on instead of a vacuum booster. I'm not finding any pressure reduction valves to put in line before the rack to keep from blowing the seals on it. Anyone have any suggestions?
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I've been pondering the idea of putting hydraboost on instead of a vacuum booster. I'm not finding any pressure reduction valves to put in line before the rack to keep from blowing the seals on it. Anyone have any suggestions?
Check Borgeson - https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/produ...productid=1716 They mention a pressure reduction kit for their hydroboost pump.
Thanks Roger. My biggest thought is, will the power be limited to the hydraboost with lower pressure? I guess it will be in a 3000lb car and you really don't need full potential compared to a 8000lb truck hauling 10,000lb or more.
I'm going to put this link here so I can find it easier later. I'm putting another parts list together so I can start work on the car soon.
Borgeson Universal Power Steering Pump Pressure-Reducing Kits 899001 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
I finally made my mind up and I'm going to stick with it. I sold the 5.3, and will be sticking the Hemi in the 40. I couldn't stand the thought anymore of not following through with the Hemi. Recently I purchased a NOS weiand dual quad intake for it, and a 392 water cross over. Once the tax return comes in, I plan to buy the parts to rebuild the engine. That will be a wad. Haha
After doing some more searching, I found a valve to reduce the pressure to the rack but allow full pressure to the hydraboost unit.
ADJUSTABLE POWER STEERING VALVE (PS-101) - HEIDTS
I actually found it in this installation page.
http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/hydroboost.html
Amazing how good sense prevails! Go Hemi, go Hemi.
I have been cringing every time you mentioned another engine setup.
You have the perfect one in your hands...
I am anxious to see how you like that setup.
I really am going to try to get the car drivable this year. My aunt is in poor health and wants to ride in it before she leaves the earth. I hope she can stick it out a while....
Wow, some progress! I got a gantry crane built to complete the tasks of lifting car bodies, pick up beds, and engines etc. Now to mount the winch and wire it. The 2500lb 12v atv wireless remote winch was on sale at harbor freight for $89. I had a super coupon and got it for $56. I also baught some lifting slings to aid with the 40 body lifting. If the weather will co-operate I will be hauling g the 40 home this weekend. Rain has softened things up too much and I'm trying to not tear up too much yard.
I guess I'll add the pic after I shrink it. Haha
It is really one of life's hardest lessons. Knowing that are time here is limited, I enjoy learning from others if they have something worthy of learning.
My mom actually stopped by my Aunt's house this past weekend. Mom said she is doing decent. One of her sons is living with her now so she has some help and company. Hopefully she stays in good health, this won't be a 30 day reassembly. Haha
Here is the picture of the gantry.
Now you're probably asking what in the world is that other blue vehicle in the pic? That is another excursion I bought. (2nd pic) I saw it on CL in Omaha, and it was cheap. I got it to do another cummins swap. It was hit in the left side bumper. It needed the frame pulled. I got that done but need to get the front end put back together, and replace the radiator. It is a V10 4x4. For now I'm just going to get it assembled and drive it. The wife's ride needs to go to the body guy so she can use this while he has hers. Because we all know it will be in and out. Right? :HMMM:
This is another engine I fixed and am selling to drum up Hemi parts funds. It is a 89 rotary pump non intercooled 5.9 Cummins 12v. (3rd pic)
The table is something I built to donate to a great cause. Vintage Torque Fest in Dubuque Iowa, donates their proceeds to a chosen child that has life threatening heart diseases. I decided I wanted to do more to help out, and this is the best way I know. This will be sold in the art auction on the last day of the show. The base is going to get lettered and pin striped, then it will get cleared. I have to come up with something to put in the wrist pin and crank journal holes so the glass can sit on them instead of the metal. The cam is froma 24v 5.9 cummins, the rods and head bolts are from a 12v 5.9 cummins, and the flex plate is from a 4.9 Ford. Man, that glass is a nice heavy, thick piece!
Last is a sweet 38 Ford I saw cruising down the road today! Just more inspiration to get mine home! (First Pic. Pics loaded out of order as usual)
Cool deal on all fronts! On your table, get you a piece of a nice hardwood, like walnut, hedge, or whatever grain you like and cut four discs out for a tight fit in your rod end holes. A hole saw would work if you don't have access to a lathe. The glass will sit on the four rod ends and won't need anything in the wrist pin ends. If you try to do all eight you'll be fighting to get them all equal height, but the rod ends are easily adjusted by loosening the caps.
Roger, thanks. That is a great idea on using the hole saw! I definitely have that, but I'm running short on knowing some one with a wood lathe. I was thinking about the same as what you just said. But I was over thinking it. I was worried about there being no support in the center of the glass. But, now that I have the glass, I don't think it will be an issue. I called some glass places to get new glass cut but no one wanted to do it due to liability issues. So, I found a table on CL with this glass top for $20. Then built the table to fit the measurements of the glass. Today I went and got the table. I was lucky they didn't sell the table before I went and got it. I couldn't go get it until this morning.
Yep, you guessed it. No more progress on the old 40. However, I did pick up another frame. It has some pitting just ahead of the rear end. I am thinking I will lop off the front of the frame on this frame and graft it on mine to eliminate the horrid mess I had with the MII cross member. I had half a notion to tear this 38 Frame apart and sand blast it, box it, basically start over. But I haven't decided yet. I've also been thinking about putting a 4 or 5 speed manual behind the 354 too. Figured I'd kill the itch I have to get another muscle car with a manual trans. But who am I kidding? :LOL:
Once again, it's been a while since I've been able to do much with the 40. I have been having project thoughts a lot lately, like always..... I picked up the crew cab 95 F350 with a powerstroke diesel and I was having very bad ideas. I'm going to put a common rail 5.9 cummins in the F350 at some point. With that being said, I was going to take the powerstroke and put it in the 40. It is essentially free, will make decent power with a tuner, and get great mileage. There my mind was made up.
Well, as most of you know from following this thread, I'm always changing my mind. I was searching info on getting broken bolts and extractors out of a block when I came across the roadkill guys on you tube. I watch gas monkey some times and saw the race between them and the road kill guys. I just assumed the road kill guys were a joke. (Gas monkey deal is sort of that way) Any how, I watched a video of the roadkill guys swapping a 5.9 cummins in a 83ish cadillac. Then I realized those guys are pretty much like me, make do with what you can etc, except they have a way better backing and time frame. :LOL: So I got hooked watching their journeys and builds and I have decided that I can't put a diesel in the 40. I need to have a spark plug engine in their for sanity sake. Haha
I don't know if I posted it on here but a while back I picked up a NOS Weiand 2x4 intake for the Hemi. My plan is to run that and some edelbrock 600s with the help and advice from MikeP. This morning I met a friend of mine and I traded him a dodge cummins engine adapter for a Mallory Unilite distributor for the Hemi. I'm going to try to get a part every 2 weeks for the 40. I've said it before, but I'm going to try to get the body home soon. I'm hoping to do it the day after new years since I have it off. I only have 3 home made projects left to make, 2-3 customer trucks on the books, which one is in the garage now. I figure since I got the garage space cleaned out, the 40 can just set there rather than the crap I had setting there. Then there are no excuses to not get the car drive able this year. It's been too long!
Got one of those on my 460, works great. Just don't weld on the frame while it's installed(per manufacturer, I haven't had a problem yet!).
I will keep that in mind. It'll be a while until there's a complete enough car to hook it up I'm afraid. :LOL:
I got mine form a guy who raced using 460's. It had about 20K miles of service on it when I picked it up, but what a difference over the old points and condensor stock distributor!
Glad to see you back on the 40. I saw that Roadkill video with the thrown together diesel Caddy; very cool and it would really be slick in your car. I've always thought about doing an old late 40s/early 50s truck with a Mercedes turbo diesel.
Please don't give me any more bad ideas. :LOL: I was so close to putting a 7.3 powerstroke or my 5.9 common rail cummins in it. I just finally decided that I needed 1 spark plug vehicle and the 40 is an iconic rod, so it needs an iconic engine. The hemi. :LOL:
No, in reality, I have 1 car with a long 6cyl diesel and I don't drive it much at all because it is harder for me to get in it and see out of it. And the family can't go with you, so it just sets. I can't bring myself to do that with the 40. Once it's together again, I have every intention of daily driving it until the white crap flies. (Just like before I tore it down to un rig it) Then spend more money on it to build a stout engine during the winter.
Sorry for the bad pic, but I was wet and tired and wanted to get in the house. It was 10:30pm by the time I got it off my trailer and pushed in the garage. I drug it off my trailer with me and a strap, used a car moving wheel dolly at the rear and my engine hoist in the front, and pushed/pulled it in the garage. Raining and misting the entire time. Not really ideal, but it is home!
That's starting the New Years off right!
Rich
Sure wish mine had a firewall like yours. I think that makes all things easier.
Great to see the 40 back Ryan!!!
I missed a couple of posts back in December glad I caught up. The Weiand intake should be a good match for the engine, nice score (old HEMIs just don’t look right with less than 2 carburetors :3dSMILE: )
I assume you are going to be using the Hot Heads adapter for the Unilite
Hot Heads Research & Racing Early Chrysler Hemi Distributor Adapters
Let us know how it works out. I knew they were available but have never talked to anyone with firsthand experience with them.
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Mike, yeah, that's my plan. I was actually going to call you to pick your brain about some more hemi info later too. :LOL: I kind of stumbled into the unilite. A friend of mine needed a part I had so we traded. Now I can knock off a $300 or more dist off my list and get the adapter. Next thing to do is find core carbs or sell something to get new ones.
I've got to pick the body back up off the chassis a little to cut off my rear brace on the rear frame rails. The brace won't allow the floor to set over the frame properly. Once that is done, I'm going to bolt the body onto the frame and get the thing set at a ride height and get it leveled out. Then I'm going to cut off the front of my frame and graft on the one from the 38 frame. Then it'll be time for the new MII cross member. That will be a huge accomplishment. Bye bye hackery. :LOL:
Do you have the original dual point distributor for the 354? If you do they are pretty easy to convert to electronic using stock Mopar SB parts.
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Mike, I do. It's still in the engine and still worked. I read the info about the swap but wasn't sure if I wanted to do it considering the unreliability of those pertronix kits. What are your thoughts on that?
This morning I had about an hour to kill before I had to go to work. I took my oldest son out to the garage with me as I had him until I dropped him off at school. We got the body jacked up and I cut off the brace I had on the frame. I dressed what was left of the welds, we set the body back down and began jacking the frame up. I let him jack the cherry picker at the front and he was having a blast. Next thing is to get the body aligned with some of the original mounting holes, and loose fit some bolts in it. I'm going to try to cut the 38 frame tonight after work. Luckily my parents live out in the country so no one will get teary eyed when I'm running an angle grinder for 10 minutes. :LOL:
Great to hear about you getting out there with your son……working with the kids has always been fun for me.
As far as the Pertronix kits I remember hearing about problems with them a few years back, but not lately. I’ve personally had good luck with them and suspect that some of the problems may have been caused by people either using a coil with improper resistance or not running a ballast resistor with them.
I’m running a Pertronix conversion on the Mallory dual point in the 283 in the Ram 50. Up until last summer I’d never run an engine with the Pertronix conversion for more than 3 or 4 hours straight. I took the truck back to Illinois last fall (24 hours straight out there and 24 hours straight on the way back) only stopping for gas and bathroom breaks. The Pertronix never missed a beat and is still going strong.
BUT if you have the original cast iron Prestolite distributor I would convert it to electronic using stock Chrysler parts. It’s what I’m running on the HEMIs in the 57 and 37 and with the exception of 2 very minor modifications it’s a drop in conversion. If there ever is a problem with it, it’s all stock parts that any parts store should have.
http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...pskyhnyna8.jpg
What you will need is the breaker plate, pickup coil, reluctor wheel, upper shaft and vacuum advance from a later (73 and up NON-Lean burn) 318-360 small block Mopar. You can’t use a BB Mopar parts because it turns in the opposite direction of the SB and the vacuum advance will pull the breaker plate in the wrong direction. I used to have a few of the electronic distributors laying around and would just gut one for the required parts, but you should be able to souse them new locally.
The conversion itself involves removing the original breaker plate and vacuum advance. In the center of the upper shaft is a felt plug that you pull out and then remove the wire “C” clip that holds the upper shaft (which can be the hardest part of the whole job LOL).
http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...psdffsxyxr.jpg
Once the original upper shaft is removed you will need to set the new breaker plate in the housing. One of the retaining screws that comes in from the side will line up, but you will need to drill a second hole (next to the cap hold down clip). Once the new hole is drilled, install the new upper shaft and install the breaker plate with pickup and vacuum advance and press on the reluctor wheel. On the new vacuum advance there will be a metal prong built into the bracket that indexes the distributor cap on the newer distributor…..this will need to be bent over (as I did on mine) or cut off so the cap will fit. You will want to enlarge the hole the distributor lead goes thru (cutting it to the top of the distributor so the grommet on the plug lead now slides into it). Set the air gap on the reluctor wheel/pickup to .008-.010 with a brass feeler gauge and it’s good to go.
http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...psig3c98in.jpg
That just leaves a couple of things. The distributor cap you will need to use is the 56 -61 MOPAR cap (Airtex/Wells 5D1024 or Standard AL148). The rotor you will need is just a standard mid 60s up V8 MOPAR rotor (Airtex/Wells 4R1021 or Standard CH303).
You will also need a control box to trigger the coil. I’m using a Chrysler Orange box on the 37 and the wiring is pretty straight forward.
http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...psomr35fnn.gif
I’m using an MSD 6AL on the 57 Plymouth I don’t have a copy of that wiring diagram, but it was just follow the MSD instructions.
Less the control box and coil, total for the conversion should be under $50.
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I put a Petronix unit on the 66 289 Mustang I gave my grandson. I converted a Mallory dual point and used a matching Petronix coil. He came home in Nov. and drove the car to Cherry Point, NC with no problems. I'd recommend a conversion.
Disregard post.
I was misreading the schematic. I see now that the ballast resistor is bypassed for start.
I think the satin black will look great - I might have missed this already mentioned in a post but are you planning on keeping the flames with the satin black or just going straight up satin black?
Mikep, thanks for that detailed info. I might just do this so if there is an issue on the road, I can walk into a parts store and get parts for the distributor.
My plan for now is to paint it gloss black and keep the same flames but change the color to silver, white, and blue I think. If I run short on time, it might get the satin black. For now it'll just get single stage unless I get far enough to get base clear.
I have an unrealistic goal to drive this car to the start of power tour in June. Quit laughing. :LOL:
Your 1940 Ford Deluxe looks great, I am in the process of restoring a 1940 Ford Pickup. The body is all steel except for the rear fenders which are fiberglass. I really want to find a set of Steel rear fenders for it. If anyone reading this has any options or anything used please let me know. Thanks Paul
Well, the '38 frame is a donor now. I got the front of it cut off. Next step is to cut mine off and get the cuts made to fit the 38 fronts on my frame. I guess first, I have to get the rails stripped of the X member pieces and suspension cross member. :LOL:
I got the inner pieces of the frame removed from the outers. Now I need to find some one to blast the outer rail pieces, or break down and find my small blaster and do it myself. :LOL:
“……or break down and find my small blaster and do it myself…….”
25 years ago I built my own blaster out of a discarded gas water heater. It didn’t leak but they had stopped using it because it didn’t work so good (built up calcium). I tuned it upside down cut a hole in it for a 2” (2 ½ ?) pipe bung. Before I welded that in I ran a rod thru the hole to break it calcium up and clean it out (hanging it upside down from the cherry picker).
I added a couple of wheels and a handle. I ordered the sand control valve, strainer hose and nozzle from a sand blast place (in Ohio I think). It’s kind of a monster and can hold up between 300 and 400 pounds of sand/media. It’s ugly as sin but sure works good.
http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...psw09ncq0w.jpg
Hey it’s not like you don’t have enough projects :LOL::LOL::LOL:
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