Mann there is not a lot of room under there for a booster....I looked once...:eek:
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Ryan,
I think if you get your brake components sized right along with the right leverage on your pedal you'll do just fine without a booster. Bias towards a bigger bore on the MC as opposed to smaller, if that's an option for you, to increase the volume of fluid pushed for a given pedal movement.
When my dad & I first built my car we put the MC on the firewall and hung a pedal under the dash. It worked well for years but looked like crap!!:eek:
When embarking on this redo I installed a new firewall and moved the pedal/MC back under the floor. I bought one of those pedal/power booster/corvette MC combos from ebay and fitted it to the frame. Then I decided I wanted to go with a 5 speed instead of an automatic. Thus I added a clutch pedal to the rig I already had.....
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Sorry I don't have a pic with the MC attached but it's the GM/corvette style MC. I've toyed with adding a remote fill since it will be hard to access under floor.
I think I'll hold off on buying a MC or the adapter, until I actually get the engine and trans in the frame so I can see how much of the X member is going to be left. :LOL:
[QUOTE=40FordDeluxe;489760]I think I'll hold off on buying a MC or the adapter, until I actually get the engine and trans in the frame so I can see how much of the X member is going to be left. :LOL:[/QUOTE
yeah, you might need one of these 1935-40 Ford Bolt-In Tubular X-member - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
but I think we might have talked about this before....:)
Yes we have. I measured one at Good Guy's in Des moines this year, and I don't think it's wide enough to get the 46rh through it either. That's an expensive piece to have to modify if you know what I mean.
I hear ya! These guys have one, too. It's wider than stock but don't know if it's wide enough for you. page 60
No, there's isn't wide enough either. I originally was going to use theirs. My plan is to build an X member similar to what Fatman does on their chassis.
Today I ordered some parts for the Hemi. I'd like to get the 40 in my shop this weekend and get going on it. We'll see how that plan unfolds..........
Carb Adapter
Intermediate shaft
Small Block Chrysler Billet Electronic Dist.
Oil filter relocating plate
Oil filter mounting bracket
Oil byplass plug
Rear main seal
Timing cover seal and gasket
Spark Plug Rubber seals
I need to get my water pump on and see what I need to do about a dampner and pullies. Then figure out PS pump, and alt situation.
Just curious why you're not going to run the fuel injection....
Today I said to heck with it and dug out the Hemi. I started removing the pieces I don't need, and started cleaning gunk and grime off the engine. I also put my BBC water pump on to see how it was, or if it was going to fit. Yep, it fits! I have no gaskets in there now, so it's tight against the timing cover. Worst case, I'll have to clearance the 2 lower bolt heads on the pump cover. I'm waiting for my parts from Hot Heads, but until then I'll keep cleaning this thing. I have to get a balancer and find my lower pulley so I can determine what I need to do for an upper pulley. This weekend I'm going to start putting the engine in the car. But first, I have to do my fire wall.
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I'm going to cut the old water pump to get the upper cross over off. Then I'll braze a plate on it. Later on down the road I'd like the aluminum one Hot Heads sells, but for now this will have to work. I'm going to try selling the stock pieces I removed from the engine to help fund more parts. I also forgot I had this new air cleaner. I might run it for now until I get it running, then buy one of the vintage units.
Today I pushed the car out of it's storage spot, and washed it. It badly needed it. I need to go on a bird killing spree........................ Now it's in the shop and I'm going to get started on it in the morning. My new distributor showed up today. The big brake kit is MIA though.....
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Thanks for the update. I see the air filter for that tall oval element we talked about in the other thread.
Seeing your motor reminds me "how come I don't have a hemi?" I grew up thinking I'd put a hemi in everything and that still sounds like a great idea.
From the looks of those front tires, I'd say you've been 4-wheelin' in that thing!!:LOL:
Are you planning to lift the body off for your x-member modifications?
Yep, I found it the other day and I'll use it for now. That filter you found should work great too. I agree with you. I've always wanted a Hemi from the first time my friend and Dad found 30 in a local abandoned junk yard. Too bad the state crushed every last thing in there!
:LOL: Yep, pretty much! I had to push and drag it through some muddy holes to get it from one barn to the drive way, and back to our shop. This springter has allowed the ground to be very soft, and all the gravel has sunk and made a mud mess. dang the luck.....
Yes, I do plan on taking the body off the frame. First I'd like to get the engine placed where I want it, then see what all needs redone to get the trans in there. I know that will be the worst part. With the body off I'll be able to brace the frame to minimize movement when I cut the X member up. Well, I'm sure mine has already moved and sagged. So, hopefully I can get some of that back.
I also found a decent set up for a gas door I'm going to try. I never knew 41-48 fords had gas doors.... So I'm getting one from a local rodder and will add this to the car some time. :LOL:
Today I removed all the stock suspension parts and began the install of the tubular control arms. I did not have any luck sourcing a drill bit the size of the outer diameter of the spacer. So, I found a hole saw that was the same size. I cleaned the inside of the cross member, ground it, and tacked a 1/4" piece of scrap in there. Drilled a hole in the center, and then used the hole saw to cut the hole in my cross member to get the spacer in it. Once that was done, I had to enlarge the front bolt hole to 5/8". Then I slid the spacer in, and put the lower control arm on. I have to trim the spacer to allow the inner washers to be used. Right now it's too tight to get the control arm on and the washers. I'm guessing who ever designed these wants you to drill both holes to the outer dia of the spacer. But I'm using the front as a locating device. I have to check my caster and camber before I weld it up. I have a lot of clean up to do to this cross member. Hopefully I can get some stuff done over the weekend. But as usual, it's getting busy. I have to go to my Grandmother's birthday party tomorrow afternoon, and church and Easter/more b-day celebrations Sunday. I doubt I get much done.......
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Position of the lower arm looks good so far, Ryan. That crossmember looks weak, going to take some good reinforcement and gusseting to make it work right! Just keep that upper arm centered in it's range of travel on the slots! Did you put an angle finder or caster/camber gauge (preferred) on the spindle to get the 5 to 7 degrees cranked into it?
I would also suggest some gussets from the crossmember to the frame as well as from the lower shaft tube to the crossmember. With the proper structuring and some good welds, it should do fine, Ryan....
Yes I did Dave. Now the other issue that was brought to my attention. Look at the top pic in post 143...... The front part of the frame is above the rear part of the cross member by a good bit. Hopefully the LH rail is the same, or maybe that is a bad pic. I'm heading over there now to look at it. I think I know why it's hacked, I mean done like that...... Instead of notching the lower portion of the frame so the rack would fit, they raised the front of the frame to make clearance. Oh, this just gets better and better..... I do plan on adding gussets every where I can. I think I'm going to make the gussets and tack them in place, then get the engine sat in position so I can try to make sure everything can fit. Then remove the engine and weld everything with the engine out.
On the bright side, I ordered a 2 1/2" exhaust kit from summit, and a new Tank Inc 16 gal gas tank. My brake kit and front brake lines are on the way too. I got my first installment from Hot Heads as well. They back ordered my carb adapter for 2 weeks. It should work out ok. I have plenty of work to do until then. :LOL:
Yup, the front part of the frame is way too high, puts the spring tower up too high and the anti-dive angle for the upper A-Arm is way off!!!! Going to have to do something there, too. Missed seeing that when I looked at your pics.
Hopefully this pic comes through, it's the correct set up for anti-dive angle on the upper arm. The angle of the upper arm should be about 7-10 degrees with the front of the arm higher. As long as this angle is not less then your caster angle, it works out ok.
Yikes, Ryan, that's kinda wacky!! Sure you don't wanna consider one of these?? :3dSMILE:
35 40 Ford Chassis Rat Rod Rat Rods Ford Other New Frame Custom | eBay
I missed it too. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about it. I honestly am thinkng of just strengthening it and running it. Because either I: A cut the cross member out and buy a new one and try to scab the old front frame horns back on, or B start with a different/new frame. Well, this thing drove surprisingly well for all the bad crap it had going on. I think I might be able to live with the anti-dive being screwed up. The biggest complaint I had before was the bump steer. So as long as it doesn't drive worse than it did, I will probably leave it. It isn't pretty or ideal, but I think it would be a major project to correct that without at least a frame jig.................
Thanks Dave! That helps a lot! I think I have an idea how to bring the angle down too. I can cut the upper part and cut a pie shape out of it. Bring it down to a correct angle, and weld it all up. The only way this thing has survived is the boxing plates they put on the inside are one piece. This thing may not be ideal but it'll have to work for now. I can't imagine how bad it really is if we compared stock frame measurements to what it is now. Poor dang car.
I did check the LH rail and it's the same way. So when they installed the MII, they just cut the frame off and then stuck the cross member and scabbed from there. How this car survived all this is beyond me. I bet that front end has 100,000 miles or more on it like that. I put 8000 miles on it, and my uncle drove the car daily when I was a lad.
If you ordered the thin aluminum timing cover from HH you’ll end up with plenty of room between the timing cover and water pump (although you’ll lose the mounting boss for the fuel pump). The HH timing cover is designed to use with the short BB Chevy water pump and it looks like you have the long pump on the engine. It’s no big deal except the lower pulleys they sell to go with short pump and are too far in to work with LWP.
I had to use the short water pump, cover and pulleys on the 57 Plymouth to get fan clearance. On the 37 Dodge, I’m using the stock cover, factory BB LWP (which just clears the stock timing cover), and a stock BB MOPAR 4 grove lower pulley. I’ve still got to get around and figure out PS brackets for the 37.
Mike, I've taken your advice and used the BBC LWP, stock timing cover, and BB Mopar 4 groove pulley. I still need to source an upper pulley, and figure PS pump and mount. Alt mounting, I'll probably do what you did too. I'll see how it fits in the car, once I get there. :LOL:
Today I started cleaning up the LH frame rail. I will have to live with the anti-dive angle situation. My idea to cut it and move the front down wasn't looking to be a good idea. So I decided to leave it and strengthen it every where I can. I also got the lower control arm on. I'm having the spacers cut down today, and I'll weld them in tomorrow.
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Today I removed the running boards and started removing the toe boards. I'm getting ready to remove the fire wall. My gas tank and exhaust showed up today too.
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(rubbing my hands together) Woo Hoo!! Here we go!! :LOL::LOL::LOL:
Going to have to schedule a road trip to Manhattan, KS (the Little Apple!!) so you can cruise the K-State campus with the sedan. They'll love that color in Manhattan!! Might have the college girls lined up for rides...
Shiney new parts, yah! Your floorboard looks a lot better than I would have guessed. Charge on.