Also, if I do go the blower route, it'll be hard to put a hood on it and cover it all up. :LOL:
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Also, if I do go the blower route, it'll be hard to put a hood on it and cover it all up. :LOL:
Brooks Construction 40 would be so much fun to drive around in. That has to bring nothing but smiles to people. Even the hardcore have to grin a little.
Laugh it up while you can. You can keep the Prius or any rice crap for that matter. :LOL:
So how many of you rich retired guys drive your 8-9mpg street rods daily at over 60 miles per day? Like I said, this car will be driven and I want to "try" to get the best milage I can. It'll help me be able to drive it. I was able to squeak 15 out of the 377 TH400 combo, but it was no power house. I could go EFI but there again, my budget is low. It'd be nice to be able to load up in it and head for Texas or what ever and not worry about a lot of things. I'm addressing all the things that didn't get fixed before so it should be a lot easier to take it farther away. I was constantly repairing it before. Now it should be un presidentailly solutioned so to speak. :LOL:
I think I can safely say that "WE" are all your side when it comes to being able to own and drive the Hot Rod that you built. But if you want "power adders"? Like a Turbo (or 2) or a supercharger with a four barrel (or 2) then the addidional power comes with a cost! And if you are like me, you will never keep the right foot from pressing to hard!
Can I or anyone say you won't reach 15 mpg? No, not with any certainty.. but I highly doubt you'll reach 15 mpg. Of course that is just a guess and there are many variables like tire sizes and gearing etc. etc. etc..., If you want to drive it daily and achieve the most mpg you can, AND do better mpg than a Hummer? Stay away from the "power adders" at a minimum..
Again, just my point oh two, YMMV, yad yada yada..:rolleyes::LOL::3dSMILE:
I hear what you're saying. :LOL: In my calls to Hot Heads, Bill I believe is his name, told me they have an employee with a coupe that has a turbo 392 that has a lock up over drive trans and he is getting 19. It's a single carb blow through set up too. True or false, IDK :LOL:
Rich retired guys, huh? I've got so many things flying around my head with that comment that I'm bound to make someone mad or offended with my reply if I start. Suffice it to say that once you attain that point in life I expect you'll realize how many ways that sentence is wrong. Best of luck with the decisions on the drive train for the '40. I hope that it meets all of your expectations for both power and economy.
My Nova got 9 or 10 mph when driving about 3 0r 4 when having fun :eek::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL:
I wasn't trying to ruffle any feathers with that. I typed that with a smile, I just figured since mileage isn't a concern that money can't be either. :LOL: Mileage isn't my main concern on it, but i'd like to try to make it the best I can considering what it is. I hope I'm rich when I retire but at the rate my SS is going, I for sure won't have that so I'll have to rely on what ever I provide myself. My last SS statement says I can't draw until I'm 72 and I've been putting in since I was 13. I'm not waiting to retire at 72 for sure. I doubt the descion will meet all my expectations because it'll never be done if you know what I mean.
On a side thought.................... Have any of you guys seen the big steel wheels with baby moon hub caps on anything near you? (Bigger than 16") I kind of had the thought that something like that might look good on here. It seems it's getting pretty hard to find a wheel that isn't everywhere anymore.
I haven't seen any but to be honest, I quit looking at steelies 2 years ago. The whole red (or insert a color here) wheel with baby moon - with or without a beauty ring - is more copied than the Cragar 5 spoke!
Oh, and run wide whites with that combo and you've got the other half of a plain vanilla 32 w\SBC in it. (IMHO :LOL::LOL:)
I know the look you're talking about Ryan and I kinda like it on some cars/trucks. Sometimes the baby moon can be substituted with an old style Ford cap, too. In the latest issue of Streetrodder magazine on page 32, there's a '36 Ford Phaeton with updated "artillary" wheels & caps, which look to be around 17"front/18" rear that look pretty cool.
A lot of the new aftermarket wheels are just too much "bling" for me! I've been gravitating towards more traditional styles but in modern sizes. It gives the car/truck and "edge" without going over the top. I will probably do 17"front/18"rear on my 37. I like the 20's on the rear of the '40 in your video link but any bigger than that is just too much for me.:eek::LOL:
Here's a pic of some aluminum rims to look like steelies. This truck belongs to one of the guys at the F100 Western Nationals that I always go to. They're definitely more pricey than the steelies but kinda illustrate the look you're talking about I think....
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...0/IMG_1331.jpg
Randy, thanks. That's what I was thinking of. But I bet they're not cheap. What is though right?
I think the wheels Randy pointed out would look retro yet modern on your 40. They would be a good choice.
"Rich retired Guys" who don't care about milage? Sure I know a few. Be careful about putting others in that box. I don't fit it. The objective is to have fun and go places. Enough said, go back your shop and enjoy yourself. Considering all the cars and trucks you are working on, you have a lot of ambition, remember to have fun too.
Ok, I'm sorry to all of you whom I offended with the Rich Old Guys comment. I did write it with a humorous side but I guess it can be read either way. Sorry to upset you guys. I really do appreciate the help and influence.
On the wheels, I do like them, but not as much as Halibrands or something shiny. :LOL:
On the powerplant, I'm betting it'll end up with a single 4 and no power adders. Every time I start building a project in my head I don't realize how little time I really have and how much money it's really going to take to finish it out. So, I need to put together a list of parts it really needs and see what that looks like. It's probably going to be way more than I'm thinking. It always is.
And Scooting, you probably will put more miles on yours than I. I won't be coast to coasting and our weather to be driving cars and trucks like these is roughly 7-8 months. Either way I'd like to see if I can meet up with ya on your trecks across the US.
Ryan, If I recall correctly you need 3 little car seats in the back. Get it running and do that. Ask Mom to navigate and we will pack our twin grandchildern and travel to Orlando together to visit the Mouse, the Manatee, and slip up to Datyona. Not all trips are about cars, but all trips are more fun in a Hot Rod.
Well, not work progress, but the old enclosed trailer I have the car in is up by the shop now. Now to get the wife's excursion done and clean the shop so I can reload the shop with projects. :LOL:
Does anyone know what brand the wheels are that Randy posted are?
I forgot I found these pictures on my computer that I saved. I'd like to get the stance of the either one. I like those wheels but doubt I go that route. I really like the black one. Just less flames, a V-butt windshield, and no pumpers. My plan is to duplicate the flames on my car currently but change the colors. White, silver, then a light blue fading into a dark blue metallic.
Has anyone seen the 40 Ford Coupe that won the riddler award last year? I really liked the flush mount glass they did on it. I'd love to do flush mount on mine. I had a thought on doing the rear windows and would like your guys's feed back.
Here's my thought. When you remove the rear glass and remove the weather stripping, isn't there a lip of pinch weld that the weather stripping is locked in place by? Why couldn't a guy add to this lip, have larger glass cut, make a drain on the bottom for each window, and glue the new glass in with urethane? What are your thoughts on that?
If they're truly flush mount, and glued in place with urethane then where would a drain be located and why would it be necessary? On the 'glass body we had a lip about 1/2" wide, and the guy laid in a rope of urethane that was nearly 1/2" diameter, smooth around the lip and smoothly set the glass in place and pressed it down to seat the bead evenly. Then a tool to take away the squeeze out, and a finger dipped in mineral spirits (I think) to smooth it to a final finish inside and out. No place for water to get in, nothing to drain, nice smooth look. Just my $0.02.
Ryan, they are Colorado Custom according to the cap....
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_2782_1.jpg
Here are some others in similar style but I don't know if they are the same brand.
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...ps65772254.jpg
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...psb60c9d48.jpg
A buddy from my gym was telling me about a source in Burbank offering large diameter steelies at affordable prices. I'll try to find out more....
Randy, thanks. I checked out the Colorado Custom web site and it looks like they make/offer the hub cap but not the wheel. I probably won't go with steelies and hub caps though. IMO they are way over played. :LOL: Those billet ones are awesome, but I can bet they aren't cheap at all.
Have you checked The Wheel Smith in Corona, CA? - theWheelsmith.net Home for Custom Wheels and Accessories They advertise an aluminum artillery wheel in 16, 17 & 18". Another one making smoothies is Early Wheel Company, but they only go to 16's - Early Wheel Company | Rally Wheels, Smooth Center Wheels, Hubcaps, and Trim Rings . Might not be what you want, though.
Roger, thanks for the links!
Check www.circleracing.com and billet section. Smooth wheels plus salt flat types. How about an inexpensive salt flat wheel with oval openings but instead of the cast part being grey, powercoat it black. Let the outlines of the polished ovals and edges show through? Look at the cast wheels section and the gasser types but imagine them black with polished lips and ovals polished. You would have something special to match your black 40, gasser style, that no one else has. Think out of the box...
Summit has Americian Racing salt flat wheels for $200 plus, easy to paint them and polish the ovals.Attachment 60172
Here's a '39 Ford pickup with polished salt-flat style wheels if you want to see what they look like.....:D
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7759ca8d.jpg
Kind of like these Rocket Igniter's Salt Flat wheels available here Rocket Racing Wheels | Rocket Igniter Gray | Free Shipping From Selected Rocket Dealers!
http://www.rocketracingwheels.com/bl...image-3532.jpg
Thanks guys for the pics and links! I do like those and I agree Mr.Scoot that painting or powder coating the center black would be a unique feature. So far I like the Halibrand replicas, these salt flat style wheels, and the rocket ignitors. I mat have to see if I can have someone photo shop me a pic, or buy a sub to the digital paint booth and see how it'll look.
I do like these but they are a little more money.
Circle Racing Wheels
If I go with my wider rear fenders I'm thinking it might take a 10" wide wheel to fill the opening and make it look right. I guess I might have to do some mock up before getting my hopes up. It seems that the salt flat wheels aren't offered in 10" but there is a 20x9.5. Thansk for the pics and help guys!
Don't get real excited, there's no progress been made yet. :LOL: However, I did decide to use the steering column from my 72 Chevy in the 40, and I almost made an engine change. I have the chance to buy a good running 69 396 and a TH400 that needs rebuilt. I thought about sticking them in the 40 so I could get the car running easier. Then I decided I was a durn fool and needed to just finish out the 354 swap. :LOL: Hopefully in a few weeks I can drag the car out of the trailer and start on it again.
One word - HEMI - or as Paul Simon would say "stick to the plan Stan"