Hmmm....the fender width is fine if the tire is wide/tall enough to fill it up....that one doesn't in my opinion....:D
I'm talking about the black one....
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Hmmm....the fender width is fine if the tire is wide/tall enough to fill it up....that one doesn't in my opinion....:D
I'm talking about the black one....
Yes Ryan,those fenders look good on that car and the only thing I would change on it if I had it, it needs wider wheel / tyres underneath them. I would lose the drain pipe exhausts also but hey, it's not mine so I will shut up.
Wish I had super wide rear fenders... But then again it would mean a repaint and the cost of that is out of reach. Like the idea of the nose of a forty not having a bumper in front of it. Check out this 37 Chevrolet I met at a show this summer. His solution is kinda neat.
Mark, I'll eventually put as wide as a tire as I can fit in there for sure. Lol
Scooting, that's pretty cool. Thanks for sharing it.
I like the wide fenders alot. Wish they repoped wider fenders for a 48 F1 truck! I have always like these 40 sedans with the dual rear windows reminds me a bit of the pre war willys! Very cool body style that has a bit of Gangster in it!
Wider tires??? You can always push the frame in a bit. This was my 38 Chevy.
Charlie, I'd love to tub this car, or even mini tub it, but I'd like to keep all the back seat and trunk room I can so that is out. The only real option was to go with the wider rear fender. Last spring I was going to buy new wheels and tires but now I'm going to get it a roller with a body back on and then decide on wheels and tires. It'd be too big of a guess with everything that I'm changing. I might keep this style of wheel and just go bigger in the front and wider in the rear.
I'm starting to realize I may have to sell my COE or get my brothers to step their end up if we want to get these all done. Originally the COE was supposed to be a project we split the costs on. So far, I'm fully vested in it. :LOL: I want to rebuild the Hemi this winter and if I want to get the 40 driving by next spring, all my extra money will have to go to it. We're also saving for a house so it's rare to spend money on projects right now.
That orange Chevy with the front bumper split like that is cool but the owner could of moved them in slightly closer to the body which, to my eye, would of improved the lines better yet still protect the grille. I like the idea of mini tubs and I think one would be surprised as just how much room one can gain by just removing the curvature from the inner guard as it is normally only the top inner side of the tyre that rubs when one adds full size tyres under the car. I am a fan of bumpers and by just moving them in closer to the body panels can make a huge difference in appearance. I also like the smooth filler type panel between the actual bumper and fender etc.
I like the looks of the bumpers on these cars, I just feel it takes away from the front of the car. I just love the look of a 40 deluxe with no bumper. I'm not much into the smoothed head light ring and no trim. I guess that might be partly because my uncle drove this car for years with no front bumper. I still have thoughts to paint it black, and patina the paint. That way it looks like I remember it, with him. I don't think I could go back to delaminating 2 piece glass and torn up original tan interior though. :LOL: Plus it is odd not having a front bumper, but having a rear. I found an old photo album my aunt gave me after I baught Sooner. (That's the car's name) I'll have to try to scan it and post it here as the car looked in the 80's.
I do plan to make a round tube, I guess you can call it a bumper, to go under the tail pan but protect the rear from direct impact. I'd like to try to do something similar in the front. Does this protect the sheet metal or front grill and stuff, no. But it will look cool. :LOL:
On the rear and the tires, I only will have a 3/4" in between the side wall and my frame. To mini tub it i'd have to move the frame in as well. In my ratarded brain, if I cut it, it'll end up with big ol tires. No moderation. :LOL:
My front bumper when finished
:LOL:
One More Look.
Hey, thanks for that! Have anymore pics of that car?!
Bumpers help with latter regrets. I can see wanting to protect the front end from damage. I can't imagine how much a new grill like that would cost or the cost for the fenders. The Half bumpers should help!
Both my brothers had 68 firebirds in high school. The one feature that looked real nice was that long center chrome nose/bumper, bad thing was it stuck out the farthest and always got pushed in in an accident. Hard to find new ones back then.
http://image.highperformancepontiac....c_firebird.jpg
Ryan you could try a pair of nerf's off the frame rails, seen that on a few cars with exposed grilles??????
Ryan, sorry, don't have more photos of the car. Found those on line when I was considering bumperettes. Legen's Hot Rods sell a similar version but too high priced for my blood. McMillan Rod and Custom offer several different nerf/chin bars if that is an interest. Subtle switch is to use Mercury bumpers, they have a dip in the middle. Parked beside a 39 Ford coupe at the Roadster show this year who had Mercury front and rear bumpers, looked nice. Also check out this 37 seen at the Roadsters for something really sweet.
I'm diggin the little push bars on the second vehicle, but the Merc bumper is unique too!
Scooting, thanks for the pics! I know a bumper will lessen impact, but only if the impact is 6" or below. It won't help with a deer or a pick up truck. I'd hate to think of any of that too. :LOL: The grill chin got the most abuse on my car. I learned quickly to keep away from curbs in parking lots. Oops. Haha
I've been going back and forth with wheels and trying to do something different on my budget. I think I have settled on Rev Classics and 15" in the front and 17" in the rear. I'm going to order the front wheels first and get new tires so I can get the front end done. I plan on making wood roller templates for the rear bacause I have no idea how wide or tall I can go at this time.
My question for you guys is this: How wide of a tire on the front of a rod is too wide? I see guys saying the wider tires steer and drive bad. I see wide tires on a lot of rods at shows, but I bet they see a trailer more than the street. I can't decide on a 15x7 wheel or a 15x6. The tire height I think I might go with a 25"-26" tall tire. That tire size chart I posted a while back sure has helped me in this area. Any input on the width is appreceiated.
It just depends on which era of ride your shooting for. 5" bias to 8" radials 22" and up. I have 23" x 7" radials on one of the A's... Works fine. I couldn't decide on wheels either so I threw some Moon Discs on it until I can get some definable inspiration. They may be on there for a long long time? Personally I think your steelies look bitchen and fit the car perfectly, I wouldn't change a thing but everyone is different. Feel the force young Luke!
I do like the steelies, but everyone around here is running them. And, I like shiny things so I want some shiny wheels on this thing. :LOL: I like these and they make them in 15" and 17". I'm trying to keep the side wall height decent and not have a rubber band look. I'm trying to build this with a retro vintage sort of feel. It'll have some similar things as it had in the 70's and 80's but with some upgrades that I like. Such as a V-butt windshield, (Maybe),the wider rear fenders, a power adder, bla bla blah. :LOL:
If the above wheels won't work with my rear end, I will go back to the Halibrand Replicas. I like the look of them and they are more vintage too.
This is gonna show the age of when my tires were selected. The fronts are 205-70-14s. The rears are 235-70-15s. I had a wheel rake long ago. Just for reference. The width of the front seem good and stable in the corners. I don't have power steering so they still turn decent at almost no speed. I would think a 215 which is a more popular size today would be fine. My rears will sometimes kiss the fender edge under a twisting driveway. Wish I would go the fat rear fenders like you are planning and make them wider (just for looks). Watch your wheel offsets, that is what may cause problems or solve problems. Happy Hunting! I like shiney too and think you have made a good choice.
Thanks Scooting. It's funny, my car had 14" in the front and 15" in the rear when I got it. It currently has that too. My wheels and tires are going on my Mom's Mustang. Back in the day the 40 had Keystone mags on it. I can't bring myself to put a set like that back on it. :LOL:
My vote is for the J.D. Wheel Cragar knock off's... :LOL::D:rolleyes: But here again those were and are on a lot of cars and not really unique. They are sort of era'ish as well. Wheels are about the only thing that really changes the looks of a ride without major work. It just boils down to... well Moon Disks for me!
Let us know when you deside.
I made a decision and pulled the trigger on 2 15x7 American Racing Rev Classics in Chrome. I'll more than likely go with a 17" rear wheel but the width will be determined after the body and rear fenders are back on. I also ordered a paul horton welder series mustang 2 crossmember and some other misc pieces I'll use on my frame. I am going to ditch the engine mounts I purchased and build my own too. The rubber biscuits on the ones I have already are showing dry rot cracking and that isn't cool to me. It'll have some poly t bushings in DOM now. Might as well fix it now rather than later.
I also took one of my core turbos apart as I'm trying to find 2 good cores to use. Yes, I'm planning on putting 2 small turbos on the Hemi. It'll be different. It isn't a 871, but my wallet can't support a blower right now either. :LOL:
Today I cleaned all of my stuff off the 40 frame and my youngest brother helped me get it flipped over. I started working on the bottom side. Once I get everything welded up I will flip it over and position the rear suspension. Tack it in place then set the body on the frame to get set up to do the new front suspension.
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...915_121138.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...915_121145.jpg
Bad MII pics
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...915_121152.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...915_121203.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...915_121215.jpg
Wow! You said that front end was bad but that really looks rough. Some of it looks like it was not too long before it would have been coming out from under there. Glad to see you changing it.
Yeah, I'm glad it's going in the scrap heap. What a hack mess. I'll take better pics of the ugly tomorrow.
Here's more horrid cross member pics.
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...916_121603.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...916_121610.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...916_121619.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...916_121635.jpg
I did some more grinding and welding on the bottom of the frame this morning. I have been filling un needed holes too. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the back half finished up so I can flip the frame over and start the rear suspension mock up.
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...916_121648.jpg
Man there sure are a lot of hackers out there. I see that crap all the time. You wonder how people can live with them selves doing crap like that.
Electric welders have done more damage to old Ford frames than all the salt on all the roads in the USA
I think a sawsall, cutting torch, and not knowing how to read a tape measure are right up there. :LOL:
I found a piece of the lower lip of the RH rear frame rail that was cut away with a grinder. The inner part of the X member was fine. I have no idea why who ever cut it out. Must have been another short cut for who knows what.
Hey at least they didn't try to hide it with Bondo... Personally I don't think it is the arc welding machines that were the problem... It's the lack of skill by the yahoo that held the stinger in his hand and called himself a welder. I've seen some really nice repairs with nothing but old school stick welders...
Ya just had to go there didn't you? :LOL: I haven't started any paint removal on the body yet. But, because of what you just said, I will probably just repair what little needs done to make it a nice driver, and worry about the rest later. I'm hoping the guys who did the body actually did nice work. It's been roughly 15 years since it was painted and it still looks pretty good. Here's to positive thinking. :)
I know of guys that have had their body wok done in Mexico. They are just flat beautiful for the first 6 Months or so it takes abou that long for all the body panels to settle in and start moving around. I know a guy who had his 30 tudor sedan done there and every body seam i n the roof and down the back has actually cracked and it flexes as he drives it. But he did save about $2000.00 I'm sure yours will be just fine. Put it together and and enjoy the darn thing. Wish I would of about 20 years ago! LOL
I got some more work done on the frame. I pretty much have the rear third of the bottom of the RH rail done. I have the side to finish on it. I welded the bottom of the LH rail and need to finish a few more places and then grind it, then finish grind it all.
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...917_235602.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...917_235553.jpg
Here's the repair of the bottom frame flange where some one notched the outer rail but left the inner? So odd.
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...917_235613.jpg
It's starting to look like more than a hacked erector set now.
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...917_235633.jpg
Looking good there Ryan.. You're on your way now.