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Thread: 55 Wagon Progress
          
   
   

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  1. #181
    lamin8r's Avatar
    lamin8r is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Awesome stuff,Robert.. Love watching your work.. Inspires me to try a little harder on my own stuff.. Love it..
    Micah 6:8

    If we aren't supposed to have midnight snacks,,,WHY is there a light in the refrigerator???

    Robin.

  2. #182
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u 1937 Caddy Coupe
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    Love your metal work !

  3. #183
    Jack F's Avatar
    Jack F is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 ford 3 window/461 pontiac
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    NTFDAY,

    Just finished reading that article in RC and I feel the same way. I hated seeing that perfectly good 32 door cut up. I'm not a body man by any degree but I think I would have tried to machine some custom dollies or dies to get those reveals to shape. They were going to cut the damaged section out anyway and with it cut out they would have had better access to work on it.

    Robert,

    Thanks for making that template to check the good side to the other, will use that idea in my own project.
    NTFDAY and stovens like this.
    www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44081

  4. #184
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    Guys, I'll agree that cutting up anything like that, especially a 32, should be a last resort. You would think a publication like Rod and Custom would have adequate contacts to find someone to duplicate that from fresh sheet metal. Not sure who they had doing the work (not a subscriber, no sneak peak for me...) but it sounds like they picked the wrong place to showcase for a magazine article, and likely had someone better qualified three blocks away..


    Jack, just to clarify, here's how I did the profile layout..





    Start with a profile "blank" and span the profile you need to copy.





    Using a compass, open up the span to insure it is wide enough to make the mark on the blank on both ends ...





    Don't rotate the compass as you move it, this will make the radius larger than the original. Keep it "locked" pointed in the same direction as you glide across the roof surface, leaving the profile to cut....





    Cut with a band saw, jig saw, tin snips, whatever is easiest for you and most accurate. Test fit and adjust as needed.
    Last edited by MP&C; 03-17-2014 at 08:11 PM.
    Jack F likes this.
    Robert

  5. #185
    Jack F's Avatar
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    Robert,

    Thanks for that tip on how to make the template, especially the tip on not rotating the compass.

    Jack.
    www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44081

  6. #186
    MP&C's Avatar
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    Many guys have those contour templates that will help out with making these, but for those that don't most all of us have a cheap compass from grade school (or our kids) that will serve the same purpose just as accurately..
    HWORRELL and randyr like this.
    Robert

  7. #187
    cffisher's Avatar
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    A block of wood the height of the tallest point will work also. Just hold the marker on the block and follow the contour
    Charlie
    Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
    Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
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  8. #188
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
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    Thanks for that tip guys! I usually cut a piece of card board up until I get the correct shape. It usually takes a while.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
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  9. #189
    MP&C's Avatar
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    Trying to finalize the rear end of this car.. The tailgate skin didn't align too well to the upper lift gate, the gap was way out of whack. I guess this is what I get for installing the skin based on the old tailgate.








    Note to self, don't fold door skins unless adjacent panel is there to set gaps..


    Time to break out the door skin removal tool....











    Flange unfolded....





    Spoon was slid between the skin and inner panel and body hammer used to flatten out the crease...





    Right side flange is now a bit short, so added a strip of metal..











    Flange re-folded, just needs some fine tuning and finishing the corners..











    Much better...
    Robert

  10. #190
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    Very nice work!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  11. #191
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    Do you now have to reflange it ??
    Charlie
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    Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
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  12. #192
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    Yes, the re-flanging is done for the most part, just some tweaking of the gap in a couple tight spots..
    Robert

  13. #193
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    Here's the tools used to re-fold the flanges. (don't mind the hammer marks)





    A mark was used on the front to indicate the new fold line. This press brake die was placed against the back side, and the flange tapped over. A flush tap against the face every now and then keeps the folded edge crisp..





    That took the flange over about 90 degrees, then this modified gooseneck die was used to take it over to about 135 degrees...





    At this point the gate was closed to verify gaps. A door skin hammer on the inside and a dolly against the outside skin was used to complete the fold..
    cffisher, randyr and 40FordDeluxe like this.
    Robert

  14. #194
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    Very nice as always TOOLS make the job
    Charlie
    Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
    Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
    W8AMR
    http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
    Christian in training

  15. #195
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    Wow great work, and I really admire all the specialty tools you build and share with everyone! Thanks.
    randyr and rspears like this.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

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