Thread: 55 Wagon Progress

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Thanks for the comments guys.

My nephew Chris stopped by to help this morning so we decided to work on the roof a bit. Added a guide coat and skimmed across it with the vixen file to show the high spots...








To help keep inside and outside guys on the same page, some reference marks were added from the door opening back, on inside and outside of the roof.





Worked the highs and lows, and thought we'd compare it to the other side. Making a profile template to match the good side...








Shown at about 6, 12, and 18". We're getting close..

In the latest issue of Rod & Custom, June2014, there is an article starting on page 66 of the repair of the door reveal on a 32 Pickup door. It had been hit by a fork truck and the repair had left much to be desired and since no one makes repo panels they decided to cut up another door for the patch panel. I have a sneaky hunch that you could have made one. Shame on Rod & Custom.

Awesome stuff,Robert.. Love watching your work.. Inspires me to try a little harder on my own stuff.. Love it..

Love your metal work !

NTFDAY,

Just finished reading that article in RC and I feel the same way. I hated seeing that perfectly good 32 door cut up. I'm not a body man by any degree but I think I would have tried to machine some custom dollies or dies to get those reveals to shape. They were going to cut the damaged section out anyway and with it cut out they would have had better access to work on it.

Robert,

Thanks for making that template to check the good side to the other, will use that idea in my own project.

Guys, I'll agree that cutting up anything like that, especially a 32, should be a last resort. You would think a publication like Rod and Custom would have adequate contacts to find someone to duplicate that from fresh sheet metal. Not sure who they had doing the work (not a subscriber, no sneak peak for me...) but it sounds like they picked the wrong place to showcase for a magazine article, and likely had someone better qualified three blocks away..


Jack, just to clarify, here's how I did the profile layout..





Start with a profile "blank" and span the profile you need to copy.





Using a compass, open up the span to insure it is wide enough to make the mark on the blank on both ends ...





Don't rotate the compass as you move it, this will make the radius larger than the original. Keep it "locked" pointed in the same direction as you glide across the roof surface, leaving the profile to cut....





Cut with a band saw, jig saw, tin snips, whatever is easiest for you and most accurate. Test fit and adjust as needed.

Robert,

Thanks for that tip on how to make the template, especially the tip on not rotating the compass.

Jack.

Many guys have those contour templates that will help out with making these, but for those that don't most all of us have a cheap compass from grade school (or our kids) that will serve the same purpose just as accurately..

A block of wood the height of the tallest point will work also. Just hold the marker on the block and follow the contour

Thanks for that tip guys! I usually cut a piece of card board up until I get the correct shape. It usually takes a while.

Trying to finalize the rear end of this car.. The tailgate skin didn't align too well to the upper lift gate, the gap was way out of whack. I guess this is what I get for installing the skin based on the old tailgate.








Note to self, don't fold door skins unless adjacent panel is there to set gaps..


Time to break out the door skin removal tool....











Flange unfolded....





Spoon was slid between the skin and inner panel and body hammer used to flatten out the crease...





Right side flange is now a bit short, so added a strip of metal..











Flange re-folded, just needs some fine tuning and finishing the corners..











Much better...

Very nice work!

Do you now have to reflange it ??

Yes, the re-flanging is done for the most part, just some tweaking of the gap in a couple tight spots..

Here's the tools used to re-fold the flanges. (don't mind the hammer marks)





A mark was used on the front to indicate the new fold line. This press brake die was placed against the back side, and the flange tapped over. A flush tap against the face every now and then keeps the folded edge crisp..





That took the flange over about 90 degrees, then this modified gooseneck die was used to take it over to about 135 degrees...





At this point the gate was closed to verify gaps. A door skin hammer on the inside and a dolly against the outside skin was used to complete the fold..