Thread: 55 Wagon Progress

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As a student I am asking: On Post #219 was it possible to mig weld and file the problem area? Why cut the area out?

Originally Posted by August Mariner

As a student I am asking: On Post #219 was it possible to mig weld and file the problem area? Why cut the area out?

That would have been a viable option had I looked at it a bit closer. With any damage that even remotely suggests rust, I tend to lean more toward cut out and replace. Where this wasn't a clear cut rust issue, I had made these drip rails previously, so I felt the end result would be better once some cutting opened the area for exploratory poking around to see how structurally sound that area actually was.

A few months ago, I had bought a 60" Starrett rule.





One of the first things I checked with it was the vertical weld that joined the 4 door NOS quarter on the drivers side of the 55. Previous to this the largest rule I had was a 24", which did not show the deflection as well. When the 60" rule spanned the joint, it showed a pronounced high spot at the vertical weld instead of the gradual crown that the panel should have. I'm not one to overload something with bondo to cover up something like this, so the vertical weld as well as part of the horizontal was sliced open to re-adjust the panel and get the correct contour.


After the slicing was complete, despite the panels coming together slightly, the gap was slightly wider than the first time welded. The butt weld clamps did not work all that well in keeping the panels where they needed to be, and after about the third time of the square peg falling out of the hole, I made a slight modification to better keep the peg from falling out. About one third the way down, the peg was punched on all four sides to keep from falling out.








Although I didn't get pictures of this part, the modified clamp worked especially well in gapping the horizontal weld joint to better fit the profile template for the crown of the panel. Basically with the peg no longer falling out, the portion of the butt weld clamp shown above was used to pull out on the panel until it filled the profile template, then the panels were tacked at that point. Move another couple inches, repeat. This got the vertical crown back where it should be. This was process was repeated for the vertical weld to correct the horizontal crown along the length of the quarter, checking across the vertical seam with the 60" rule. This picture was taken afterwards with the smaller rule so I could hold all the components and the camera, but gives an idea how the "partial clamp" was used to get the panel's crown correct.





I don't typically used gaps in welding panels, was kinda forced into this to get the crown corrected, so I needed to make a copper backing tool. I had some rare earth magnets so I used one along with some flattened copper pipe. Note the magnet is ever so slightly raised to insure the copper is pulled good and snug to the panel..











Each use will tend to leave the copper soot covered, so I used a welding brush to clean the copper between each weld.





Welds all complete, just a few left to planish and dress, then some panel bumping and we should have one more thing crossed off the list..

Originally Posted by MP&C

That would have been a viable option had I looked at it a bit closer. With any damage that even remotely suggests rust, I tend to lean more toward cut out and replace. Where this wasn't a clear cut rust issue, I had made these drip rails previously, so I felt the end result would be better once some cutting opened the area for exploratory poking around to see how structurally sound that area actually was.

Thanks for taking the time to answer!

Now that's Master Metalcrafting! I'd say 99/100 would have hit that panel with a skim coat of filler, sanded it smooth and shot it with Hi-Build primer.

I use to wonder what all the differences were between a $20K car and a $150K car. After years of building things I know I still lack the integrity, I would have filled and moved on. One day perhaps I will get myself to find that zone consistently. Great post! It has been like reading an advanced Auto-body text book, only with more information.

I like the magnet on the copper that's a GREAT idea. I wind up proping something on the inside or get someone to hold it Again great idea Thanks

Very nice work sir!

Thanks for the comments guys. Charlie, that was a rare earth magnet, super strong. I'm sure one made for a cabinet door at the local hardware store would work equally as well.


Back to some finish work on the driver's quarter, we do have a few low spots to address.





Where the wheelwell and rearward offers quite spacious accommodation for hammer work within the quarter, the window area forward of the rear wheel does not fall in the same category. So as much as it pains me, one of the Snap On body hammers was given a top chop..





Yeah, this will do the trick...








For a dolly on the outside, the small shot bag is used to promote small, controllable stretches.





After the hammer work, placing the rule at a slight angle across the seam to use as a profile gauge, the area is much better than before.





This should hold this spot until paint. For now, another item checked off the list...








Moving to the other side, got about half of the quarter's weld seam ground flush on the outside, more to come.

Thanks for adding to your day's work all the detailed photos and posts.

More great work sir! You make it look easy!

Thank You Robert. It is appreciated!

Ya might consider having some harbor freight hammers for future specialty tools, I know cutting on that snap-on hurt you almost as much as it hurt the hammer!

Just a guess here but I think the words harbor freight are not heard in Roberts' shop.

Jack.

Nothing that I've bought...