Found this interesting; I was checking the specs on both cars today:
1949 Plymouth P18 Business Coupe--GVW 2983lbs
1994 Taurus SHO Sedan with auto trans--GVW 3503lbs
Who would have thought the old 49 would be 500lbs lighter?
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Found this interesting; I was checking the specs on both cars today:
1949 Plymouth P18 Business Coupe--GVW 2983lbs
1994 Taurus SHO Sedan with auto trans--GVW 3503lbs
Who would have thought the old 49 would be 500lbs lighter?
That surprises me, would have figured it was the other way around. Just means you'll get better gas mileage.:3dSMILE:
That one didn't surprise me, with the additional safety requirements cars have been getting heavier about every 5 or 6 years, I was amazed when I saw some of the listed weights for the late model "Pony Cars".. more like clydesdales now!!
The old Taurus SHO ran pretty good. Should run even better with 500 less lbs!Quote:
Originally Posted by falconvan
I was surprised my truck is about the same weight as the Mustang, too.
'92 Mustang GT convert - 3350lbs
66 Ford F100 shortbed styleside - 3210lbs
:D
Falcon, did you keep the computer, harness, etc from the Taurus?
Wow, now I never would have thought that a 60's truck would be lighter than a Mustang. Pretty far out. Yeah, I kept the computer and harness. Im still tossing around two ideas; either using a Megasquirt or use the stock computer. There's a company that makes an interface for the Ford EEC called a Tweecer that allows you to reprogram them with a laptop. I've been talking to both companies but still haven't made up my mind.
I finished up the welding on the tank and as a precaution I put a coat of All-Metal body filler over the welded areas. Also here is the Taurus fuel pump/level control assembly; I fitted it with a new Carter pump and replaced the stock level control with the one for the aftermarket gauges that are in the car.
Tank should work out good, Falcon.
Does the Megasquirt offer the same tune with the lap top feature, or is it one that tunes with it's own control box instead of a laptop??? I don't know a heck of a lot about the electronics stuff, but I'd think if they both will do what you want done, the one with the most tune-up possibilities would seem to be better????
Im with you, Dave. this FI stuff is fairly new to me. Megasquirt does have the laptop tuning, too. I talked to a guy from the rat rods rule site and he said the problem he had with Megasquirt was that it took a lot of trial and error to get his baseline maps set up right. Essencially it comes with no programming; you build it, download the generic programming from their site, and start tuning from there. He said getting the car to run right for both hot and cold outside temps was challenging but once he got it, it seemed to do pretty well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
With the Tweecer you use the Ford programming and tweak it to your specs such as removing emissions parameters or disabling nusaince codes that you would get from changes during the retrofit.
It looks like they are both around the same price. Im leaning toward the Tweecer as it sounds like something a beginner could get a grasp on easier.
A buddy of mine and I were discussing the use of V6s in builds and does it make sense to do all the work over using a V8 when even a bone stock V8 makes a lot more power. The original 218 in the 49 was rated at 97hp and 170ft/lb. The 3.2 im using is rated at 230hp and 215ft/lb stock, and I think with headers and a free flowing exhaust, losing the power steering pump and A/C compressor, plus tuning I would think I could make it into the 250-275 hp range without too much trouble. On a car that's 500 lbs lighter than the Taurus, I'd think that would feel pretty respectable.
So just for fun I picked two arbitrary years of 1990 and 2005; comparing the base V8 specs offered in the trucks in 1990 to the base V6 specs offered in 2005. The idea was to see how far technology had taken us in 15 years and to look at a basic late model boneyard V6 as a swap option compared to picking up an older V8 for a few hundred bux. I figure for about $500 you could get either; a decent running older small block or a decent later model V6. Of course there are lots of convincing arguments to go either way but I thought it would be interesting info to look at.
1990 Truck V8 engine specs
Chevy Ford Mopar
Displacement 305 302 318
Horsepower 170 185 170
Torque 270 270 260
2005 Truck V6 engine specs
Chevy Ford Mopar
Displacement 4.3 4.2 3.7
Horsepower 195 202 215
Torque 260 260 235
Falcon,Quote:
Originally Posted by falconvan
Not sure exactly how the Megasquirt program works for human interface, but on mine there are two 3D maps, one for fuel and one for spark, with both graphed against MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and RPM. Spark is simply entered by the timing value you want at each MAP/RPM point. On the fuel there is a base "Fuel Constant" which is set based on your injector size, and the values that you map on the graph are adjustments or bias values to that "constant". I go from the 3D graph view to "Show Values" and it shifts to a table of numbers where I can tweak the map. The other piece of information you need to adjust your fuel map is a digital Fuel/Air indicator display driven by a wide band O2 sensor.
The key is to build your base spark map first, then leave it alone while you work on fuel with the engine warm and a buddy watching the O2 values. Easy, part throttle driving to get your cruise mixture set for F/A around high 13's to mid-high 14's. Then a few more aggressive accelerations watching the O2, looking for high 12's to ensure no detonation. Once you have your fuel map done with fairly smooth transitions (no sharp peaks or valleys) on the 3D display it should be doing pretty good.
For everything else mine has correction curves that affect the base maps, fuel vs air temp for density of charge, acceleration vs coolant to bias more transition fuel when cold (accelerator pump), fuel vs coolant (choke), and one of the hardest to get perfect, crank fuel vs coolant temperature which controls the amount of injection during crank. That last one has been a bear for me to get just right, but then I like for the engine to fire within a few revolutions no matter if it's cool, warm or blistering hot. It's fairly flat at temps below freezing and above 240F, but a pretty steep ramp between them and getting the numbers right for those knee points is fun. Once you see the way the data is displayed for the Megasquirt, and how they handle adjustments for coolant and air temperature it's pretty straight forward to see how the different curves relate to one another, and it all starts making sense. Sorry if I'm preaching to the choir here.
Thanks a bunch, Roger. You're not preaching to the choir, you're preaching to the ignorant. :D I can see this is going to be a real adventure to learn this stuff but I guess there's no other way than to dive into it. Stay tuned for lots of questions once I get to that point!
Got the tank finished and mounted today. Im not real happy with the way the filler came out; it's sticking out too far but I'll address that later. I cut a section out of the trunk floor and will raise that section a few inches to give me clearance for the sending unit, fuel lines and wiring.
I also bought a Wilwood MC for the clutch with a remote mount resevior. I built a bracket for it and have it mounted to original clutch pedal after putting a longer pin in the pedal arm and reversing the direction that the pin went in. Looks like it'll work; I threaded the pushrod, cut it in half, and put it back together with a coupling nut to give me about 1 1/2" adjustment on the rod.
One advantage to that extra long gas filler......you'll be less likely to dribble gas down the side of the car......:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Just teasin'! I'm sure you'll make it look perfect! :)
Hah! Yeah,it looks goofy. Probably some spacers should take care of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Hey Falcon, I don't wanna clutter up your thread with too much extraneous stuff but thought it was interesting that the Lexus powered 32 Ford we discussed on page 28 was at the car show I attended on Saturday.
The car was commissioned to be built by Lexus in 2006 and was the first streetrod to grace the cover of Autoweek magazine. The current owner, who was sitting with the car at the show, was the Project Designer for Lexus. He's now retired and bought the car from them.
It's a 3 pedal car using the trans from a Toyota Supra since Lexus didn't offer a stick with the V8.
Anyway, here's a few pics I took for ya:
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8f0b4873.jpg
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7fcddbf4.jpg
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...psd71ac456.jpg
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...psd462e512.jpg
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5945af95.jpg
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...ps84fcca9a.jpg
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...psde76fa2b.jpg
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...pse919c211.jpg
That is certainly a darn beautiful car and although I'm not a fan of independent front suspension on fenderless cars, that works very well although I would prefer slightly narrow wheels and tyres on the front. It has a fantastic stance and like the way the rear tyre fits in the swage line around the back of the body. Stick shift too would make it an exciting car to drive.
That is killer, Randy! Thanks for sharing; now you're going to have me out looking for a Lexus engine!
I got the firewall roughed in yesterday using 18 gauge sheetmetal. I ended up cutting a couple inches higher for more clearance. For now it's just tacked together; I'll make it neat and paint the firewall when the engine comes out for cleanup.
Your still just mass producing these hot rods Falcon . I like this new engine idea .
Thanks, Booby. Good to see you back!
Not a lot of car stuff done today; I had a big list of honey-dos since we're doing a family BBQ tomorrow plus it was really hot out. I did do a trial fit on the intake. A few things you have to do to turn the intake to face the front is to grind the EGR passage off the intake, cut the top lip off of the timing belt cover, and put some 1/2" spacer plates under it. I've got a water jet guy cutting the spacers, the other two items are done. Looks like it's going to fit in the firewall just right.
That is an impressive looking intake isn't it?!?!? I didn't realize it would need to be turned but it makes sense now...
Keep up the good work and know we're following every step over here!:LOL::LOL:
Yeah, yeah; sure you are.:LOL: I got my oil pan back today; the guy did a nice job and it fits around the tie rod perfect. Also set up my accelerator using the pedal and cable from the Taurus. Literally a bolt in, didnt change anything and the pedal travel and location is just right. I pulled the belt tensioner off the power steering pump bracket and will move it to the other side of the engine. I just need to design a bracket for it and find a belt the right length.
Tomorrow Im going to pick up a set of small block Ford 1 1/2" long tube headers I found on CL and will use those and the flanges Im having made to build some headers. I had some 3.8 Mustang ones but they are not going to work out.
Pan looks good and the whole swap is working out nice Falcon!
Falcon, it's looking really nice. I say sand off the ford emblems on the intake and make people try to guess what the engine is. :)
For sure the Ford emblems are going. I'm looking at a few different Mopar emblems to take their place. I got these headers tonight from a 351M. I think the passenger side is going to work out really well as the tubing spread is almost exact once you cut off the last tube. As soon as I get my flanges back it should only take a few short 45 degree pieces to put this one together. The drivers side will be a little tougher; i have to work around the steering column.
maybe you should make a "Nopar" emblem......or maybe "Fopar":D:D
As long as it's not "Fubar" you'll be ok!:LOL::LOL:
:LOL: That's pretty good.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
:LOL: I like "FOPAR"; I'll have to see if someone could whip me up a couple of those! I have these, too. They might look pretty good on both sides of the intake.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Pro Z could whip out some decals for you Falcon, he's got all that fancy sign making stuff!!!!
Might have to look into that, Dave! I was hoping to be building headers today but my flanges aren’t done yet so I tackled some other jobs. I got a bracket made for the belt tensioner. It came out pretty decent; I’ll have to add a rear support off of the motor mount for it one I mount it permanent. I also finished welding in the setback on my firewall and filled about 15 holes that will no longer be used. I patched a couple holes in the floor where the old accelerator and MC access panel were, made a new MC access panel, and made a panel to go over the trans tunnel where I had cut it out.
It is coming a long very nice!
Thanks, Ryan. Im anxious for this guy to get my header flanges done so I can get things rolling. Not much to do until then.
Perhaps I missed it but, how far back does the engine sit into the passenger compartment?
Looks like some good progress!!!!
.
It's negligible; about 3". The box I made for the setback made a handy place to mount the accelerator pedal, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
I finally got the word that my flanges are done although I dont have them in hand yet. So I should be building headers next week. I do want to get the car all one color before it goes back on the road so I started on some minor bodywork today; plugging several old holes in the decklid and rockers where Im eliminating some trim and emblems that I dont have anyway. The guy that built this had a motorized deck lid lift that was pretty cool but a little bulky so I decided to go another route. I saved this auto latch from a 96 Firebird that I scrapped; it was on the rear hatch. I'm going to use a GM trunk lock for the manual release cable and the button that worked the lift for the power release.
Thanks for the info.
Good progress Falcon, always something to do while waiting for parts, right? Are you going to stay with the same color on the exterior?
Dave, I'm going red since its got the red and white interior. I'm keeping this real simple and budget friendly and just using a single stage red eurothane.
I did a quick reprint on a Honda Civic with some paint from TCP Global and it really looked nice so that's what I'm going with again.
I figured you might go with a red on it, should look great with the interior! Will you be using the Restoration Shop single stage, or the Kustom Shop paint? When I still had the big shop, we used a lot of TCP's paint, still get most of the House of Kolor stuff from them.....
The Restoration Shop's "Corvette Red" is really close to the red powdercoat on the wheels and dash; I think I'll use it. That's what I have on the 48 dash, too.
It's a nice color, used it on a number of different cars! Good product for daily drivers!
I finished up both rockers and other than a little patch on the passenger side they were solid and no surprises. It's always the same area rusts out on these old Mopars; right below the taillights and the lip below the decklid. I could see some bubling through the paint so I decided to go ahead and fix it. Even though its going to be a budget paintjob, I dont want rust coming back through right away. I sanded it all down and its like I thought; several areas with pinholes in both spots. But it's worth the extra week or two of work to know its taken care of. The rest of the car is really solid.