Not sure yet, Mike. Either a 727 or an 833 four speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
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Not sure yet, Mike. Either a 727 or an 833 four speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
Wow that ought to double or triple your ponies! :) :cool:
Yeah, it should make for some nice smoky burn outs.
That'll be a fun ride for sure! If you go auto, look at the 46rh. It is basically a 727 with overdrive and lock up.
I love that 727. Had one in my IH 75 Scout II with the 345 ci:). The only possible weak spot I found was at 220,000 miles the Low/reverse band broke, and I think my boy broke that with a too fast shift from reverse to low.:rolleyes: Replaced that and was still going strong when sold at 240,000+ miles.:):)
Jack.
Got the engine tore down and picked up a 440 crank this week. Everything looked good; probably could have ran the engine like it was the way the bearings looked. Off to the machine shop this week to see what everything looks like. I decided to go with the 451 stroker. That's the 400 block, turned down 440 crank, stock rods, and Keith Black stroker pistons.
I got my block back from the machine shop; everything looked good and it cleaned up at .030. I blew my car budget for the month so I'll drop the crank off in a couple weeks. We're leaving next week for our 10th wedding anniversary so no car stuff for a few weeks.
Enjoy your holiday anniversary break away and are you going anywhere special with your bride ?
Was going to ask for photo's but thought better of it in case .....
Thanks! We're going to the Creation Museum in Kentucky and just do a little road tripping here and there. Don't worry about risque' pictures.....I think we'd break the camera as old and saggy as we are! (She still looks good naked to me, though);)
Happy Anniversary Falconvan! The block is looking good. I won't comment about anything else! :eek::eek::eek::LOL::3dSMILE:
Back in the 70's, I was fiddlin' around with making a Mopar stroker with stock parts. I'm thinkin' I used a 400 block, bored 0.020", stock bore Ford 429 pistons (4.360"), big block Chevy rods (pin end bored for Ford pin diameter) and offset-ground 440 crank to arrive at 470 cubic inches.Quote:
Originally Posted by falconvan
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Very cool, how did it run? I was going to do a 470 but it was a little more crank work plus I would need different rods.Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Not much car stuff happening the last month; we had our little anniversary vacation and I recently went to work for IKEA as a Facility Manager for the new St Louis store. We're in the midst of construction and getting ready to open the store in about 8 weeks so it's been pretty nuts.
I decided to change the formula a bit and just go with a warmed over 400 rather than the stroker. Just going with a set of TRW forged flat tops, a bigger cam, some home porting on the heads and I picked up an old Edelbrock TM6 intake. It should be plenty for what I want and will save me a good bit of $ going this route. I got my heads cleaned up and tore down today and will probably start some porting this coming week. I also found a highly elusive big block truck oil pan with a rear sump for a decent price; this was a tough item to come up with but a must for the install.
I read this build thread front to back and what a journey. Inspiring how handy you are making all these different parts work together. Really nice work and I look forward to seeing your build with this BB Mopar 400. Should really scoot! :-)
Don Jr.
Thanks; it's definitely a testament of someone who cant make up his damn mind about what he wants to do!:D
WOW! It is so good to see you posting here! How've you been? You still got that sweet lil' pickup?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Blue
Hey there,
Good to be back. I have been trying to get a business going (Used car sales) combined with my regular day job so I have not been online (or in the garage) enough. Looking forward to getting back in the loop! Yes I still have my T Bucket and dad and dan still have their rods too. Been raining here in Florida daily so you have to "hot Rod" between the rain drops :-)
Hey there Mr. Blue give a shout out to Don and Dan, and say hi from us. We miss you guys. Glad to hear you all still have hot rods. Good luck on the new business!
Hey Stovens,
Thanks so much. Will tell Dan and Pops hello!
I took the 49 to the car show last night with my grand kids for one last time this season and then went ahead and pulled the motor today. It really does run nice for a cruiser but I think the big block will be a lot more fun. I'm putting the SHO motor up for sale to help finance the swap; I'm sure someone out there has a Falcon, Mustang, or Ranger they might want to stick it in.
And the evolution continues.
Great looking kids by the way.
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Nice pic with the grand kids! You didn't mess around getting it torn down! :LOL:
Very fast disassembly! Ditto on the great family photos!
They are some great kids; being a dad was always special but being a grandpa is an unbelievable blessing.
I think they come apart pretty fast when you're the guy that put it together. No rusty bolts to fight with which is nice!
"....I think they come apart pretty fast when you're the guy that put it together......"
Ain't that the truth!!!!! :LOL:
I also wonder if you don;t do a good bit of what I do when I build one.....ask yourself "what am I going to have to do to make it serviceable should I ever have to replace something?"
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Great pics and a nice family!! Cant wait to see the big block in there :-)
Yes, I did, Mike. As flaky as I am about changing them around, it's almost a sure bet it's coming back apart if I own it for any length of time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
Thanks, Don! I cant wait to see it, too! The plan is to be ready for spring cruising.
The SHO motor left today on a truck to Milwaukee for it's new home in an Austin Healy Bugeye and I got some $$ to help finance the 400 swap. The crank and freeze plugs went in today; I'll be out of town working all next week but hope to get a little more done next weekend.
400's are nice big blocks. My brother had a 68 Firebird with a high performance 400 engine, that would squeal rubber at 60 mph if you hit the gas, the gas gauge would also take a dive! :)
I had a Poncho 400 in a 70 Grand Prix SJ and remember the same scenario; great power and loved to guzzle fuel.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
I did some prep work tonight; I couldn't find the right oil pump pickup for the rear sump pan anywhere as it's out of production and the pan itself was hard enough to come by. So I just welded on a 6" extension and it looks like it will work and clear the crank fine. Also pulled out the clutch pedal as I'm going with a 727 trans, pulled out the 5/16" fuel lines and pulled off the exhaust. I hope to get the short block together next week if the machine shop gets my pistons put on the rods.
"......I couldn't find the right oil pump pickup for the rear sump pan anywhere as it's out of production ......"
Bummer, I thought I might be able to help you out but when I checked the outfit that helped me out with some of the hard to find 440 stuff when I was working on the 76, even they show it discontinued. Here's the site anyway, just in case you haven't come across them before.
BPE Big Block Truck Installation Kit
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Thanks Mike, that's a good site. I just bought a dipstick tube from him for the rear sump pan.
If it came down to it you could probably build your own pick up tube and pan. I've had to do that on these tight 5.9 swaps I've done. But it looks like you have found a pan so that's a good deal.
I got all my pistons in, went to put the cam in and it got really, really tight when slipping it into the last cam bearing. You cant turn it by hand with the gear on it so something is wrong. I'm using one of Jeg's house brand cams; I guess I'm going to call their tech support and see if maybe one of the cam bearing surfaces could be a hair oversize. I think that's probably more likely that the new cam bearings being wrong?
Mic the cam bearing surface on the cam closest to the gear, it is the last to go in.
On some fords and mopars--I install the rear bearing, put the cam in and check-Done vertical with a shop cam- then do the #4 bearing and check the cam-then 3, 2 and last 1 checking the fit after each bearing install----done vertical and with a shop cam with handle on front end-------that way I can tell which bearing is a problem as I put them in----since all the journals go into the bearings all at the same time , you can't tell whose on first ,whats on second(abbott and costello)
Jerry, please correct me if I'm wrong.
But, I believe the only cam bearing surface on the cam that does not slide through at least one of the cam bearing in the block is the last one nearest the gear. Thus my thought that that bearing surface on the cam may have been milled a little larger (mic the surface to be sure). As he said it got really really tight as it went into the last one.
Two possibilities;
1). The cam bearing surface was milled wrong (as all others slid in easy except the last)
2). Bent cam (again at last bearing surface)
While it is possible for the cam to be bent it is unlikely, however rare, it is likely to get a surface milled incorrectly. Thus my suggestion to mic the last surface on the cam.
of course he needs to check the size-but he should of already checked all the sizes before he even began to install the cam. Of the variuous engines out there it seems that there are several ways the factories have done the cam sizes-some are small in the back and get bigger toward the front--some, such as the sb chev have 3 different bearing bore sizes in the block--Ford has 5 different sizes-I'd have to look it up in a bearing spec book for the id/od bearing sizes--also the bearings are driven in with a large mallet or pulled with a puller. The heavy mallet actually works better unless maybe you are doing needle roller brgs
However , the camshaft has to be straight and fit all the bearings in a straight block at the same time----the last one is usually more likely to bind up because the person installing that bearing didn't have his installer tool lined up in 2 holes at same time??
Cam diameter #1 1.9990 Block cam bore 2.130
#2 1.983 / 2.114
#3 1.968 / 2.099
#4 1.952 / 2.083
#5 1.749 / 1.880
typical bearing thickness 0.0645 oil clearance 0.0005-0.0045
Great info; thanks. I'm going to see what i can come up with this weekend.