Very nice offer. That will get it out. :)
Don
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Very nice offer. That will get it out. :)
Don
you can presurize the fuel tank with an air line or even the discharge hose on a vacume cleaner and blow the fuel out
:): i had forgot about that ,, that`s sorta how i stole most of my gas as a youngster :rolleyes:.. put the hose in the tank .. stuff a rag around it and blow with all your mite .. the pressure build up would push the gas up the hose and out ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
never heard of that. i will do that today thanks
Yep, just don't put more than a couple of pounds of air pressure in there or you will end up with a 50 gallon fuel tank. :eek::D
So, I wasn't the only one who spent my misguided youth siphoning gas out of other peoples cars, huh? Not real cool when you don't get your mouth off of the hose quick enough and you get a gulp of hi test! :eek::CRY:
And gas was only 20 cents a gallon and we still stole it!:confused:
Don
Kind of like a scene from a Walter Matthau movie when I was a kid. He kept putting gas in the neighbors car. The neighbor would brag about how excellent his car was and what great gas mileage it got, then they started siphoning it out, and the guy starts to cuss his car out, can't understand what's wrong with it, meanwhile Walter just sits back and grins. Wish I could remember the movie it was, maybe one of the bad news bears?
http://www.crazy4cinema.com/Actor/imgs/matthau.jpg
used the shop vac to pressurize. what a breeze that was. thank you so much for the tip. now i get to hook up all my fuel lines and hope to fire this afternoon. woo hoo
yur welcome barb
ok guys. got all the fuel out and ran the fuel line and thought i had the wiring done. the new fuel is flowing well into the carb. engine turns over well but is not firing. ran a wire from the + on the coil to the ballast resistor. from the - on the coil to the distributor. put the wire from the hei to the ballast resistor. also have the wire from the electric choke to the ballast resistor as that is what i was told to do from edelbrock. i have all new spark plugs with proper gap and spark plug wires. did them one at a time to make sure that i kept the original firing order for the engine. what am i missing.
If your runing an HEI I don't think you want a ballast resistor.. HEI's run full 12 volts unless you have somthing special?
it was hei but now it is points. the wire that i ran used to plug into the hei from the ignition. now i have it run to the ballast resistor and the coil wire to the ballast resistor.
open the points manually .. if voltage is there there should be a spark
Quote:
Originally Posted by HOSS429
If the points happen to be open you'll have to bump the engine until they are closed. Wear a glove or use an insulated tool or your heart could get a decent jump start.
sorry for being so dense but how do i do that?
You can do it by hand on the crank bolt or bump the starter, just remember that the coil is pushing at least 20,000 volts and if you get across it it'll sure let you know.
so i take the wire off the top of the coil and ground it out to the block using insulated gloves or tools while someone turn the engine over to see if i get a spark?
Hi Barb, they meant for you to pull the wire from the dist end that go`s to the coil, high tension lead, with a pair of gloves or insulated pliers, hold about a 1/4 of an inch from manifold, while someone cranks it over you`ll note a spark, if not we have other issues.
thank you . sorry for being so dense. i am really learning alot from doing this swap. do not think i will try it again for awhile:LOL:
The last time the ignition got me is when I had just got done washing the car/engine, well I was in jeans ( they were wet), and reaching in to unloop a spark plug wire from the throttle lever and leaning up against the fender when it got me, not my hand but thru my zipper,,,,,:whacked:
OUCH! i would peed myself!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyardgirl
Barb, I can't tell you how many times I have said that !! :LOL:
Ken
:3dSMILE::LOL:
Barb when I check for spark on a point set up distributer, You can take a plug wire off one spark plug and take a screw driver with an insulated handle, with the blade of the screw driver inserted in the plug wire(where it attaches to spark plug) and holding the plastic screw driver handle, place the shaft of the screw driver against a groundable piece of metal on the intake and have someone crank the ignition. If you have a spark, you know your getting juice to the plugs. (just make sure there is no starter fluid cloud or gas that might ignite nearby!)
On my 460 setup, I couldn't get spark, and found out it was the little black wire going from the distributer to the coil. Sometimes when they are old, they have internal cracks inside the plastic insulation that would never let you suspect they aren't connected and working right! It can drive you nuts figuring that one out!
thanks stoven. after looking over very closely the coil i noticed a crack in the casing. going shortly to the parts store and getting a new one. hopefully that will solve the problem.
okay guys I installed the new coil and checked all the wires. still not firing. i have only the wire from the + on the coil running to the ballast resistor and the positive from the ignition running to the ballast resistor. I have a wire from the negitive from the coil going to the distributor. That is the same wire that was originaly there on the old coil. I read somewhere that i also need a wire from the + coil running to the starter but i have not run that as i was not sure and wanted to ask you guys first. What am i missing. the coil wires and all the spark plug wires as well as the spark plugs are all new.
Barb
you don't have ignition power when switch is in start
Disconnect the pos wire on your coil and run a jumper hot wire right from the battery---
Put a spark plug wire into the coil with a removed plug on the other end laying on the manifold for a ground and turn the engine over---$ 5 says you get spark (if your points and condensor are installed and adjusted correctly
thanks so much jerry. i will try that first thing in the morning.
Barb, Don't mean to hijack your build thread but a quick story.
When I was doing my Hemi swap into my 49 Ford F1, everything was done and she just wouldn't fire off. The kid (Brandon) that helps me in the shop three days a week grabbed the #1 plug wire and was holding it up against a ground. wouldn't you just know it when I turned that Hemi over she fired right off. Old Brandon is holding that plug wire and the motor is running about 1,500 or 2,000 RPM. It was a sight to see, he was trying his best to turn loose but just couldn't, took me a few seconds to realize what was going on before I shut it off. Brandon learned a lesson that day thats for sure and for certain.
Roland
That's a pretty "shocking" story. :eek::LOL:
Something I have been meaning to mention to Barb and anyone thinking of using the shop vac trick to pressurize their tanks to pump out fuel..........SPARKS AND GAS FUMES DO NOT MIX! It is way better to use compressor air to put air into the tank, but if you don't have a compressor, be very careful using a shop vac.
First of all, make sure the hose in on the exhaust side of the compressor. If you inadvertently suck gas into the vac it can explode, big time. Then, keep the shop vac way back from the tank and the gas can you are filling. The motors in shop vacs are not ignition protected and create sparks.
A couple of years ago we had two older men who were killed when they were using a shop vac to clean up the bilge in their boat. They were blown clear out of the boat and it burned to the waterline. The explosion caused by gas fumes is equal to many sticks of dynamite.
Just had to mention this in case someone else picks up this tip and decides to use it.
Don
Simple trick, use two rubber hoses, one to drain the gas from, one to pressurize, smaller 3/8 for the gas, garden hose to blow into, wrap with a plastic bag at the top to keep the pressure in til gas starts flowing out, I do this all the time to fill my mower and gas can.:LOL:
any progress barb ?
engine turns over. got gas got spark but not catching. everything looks good but wondering if the fuel pump does not pump enough pressure for the carb?
Try pouring a spot of gas through the carb - should fire if gas starvation is the prob.
did that. no go. will take another look at the distributor tomorrow.
Barb, see if you are getting spark to the plugs. Pull number one spark plug boot off and slip a number 2 phillips screw driver or old spark plug in the boot. Hold it about a quarter inch away from the block (use insulated pliers or hold the plastic handle of the screwdriver) while someone briefly cranks the engine. You should see a spark jump that gap.
You can also go to Harbor Freight and buy one of those $ 5 transparent light deals that you insert between the boot and spark plug in the head. As you crank it you should see the light flashing on and off, if you are getting spark.
Just be careful doing any of these as you are playing with sparks and gasoline in the same area somewhat. I always keep a fire extinquisher handy when starting a new engine, we've all lit up one or two in our lifetime. :eek:
Don
My 2 cents Barb, if you have spark and fuel, re-check the firing order. Remember the Cadillacs have 1,3,5 and 7 on the PASSENGER side and 2,4, 6, and 8 on the Drivers side, and it's not the standard 18436572 firing order of most other GMs (the correct firing order is1-5-6-3-4-2-7-8). Also verify that the points are just starting to open when #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke.
And don't do what I have been know to do once in a while (forget to put the rotor back in after adjusting the points :rolleyes: )
i will do that. thanks guys
Kick that thing in the right front tire and threaten it with death by crusher if it doesn't start cooperating!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Works for me..
:d:lol::lol:
Fuel Compression and Timed Spark = http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3yCq73cHNc