Thread: Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

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Very nice work as usual sir.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Very nice work as usual sir.

Thanks Ryan.

Would a silver dollar fit in that bottom hole?

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Would a silver dollar fit in that bottom hole?

Maybe, the bottom holes 1.125" diameter

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Yesterday was one of those non productive days where you work all day but seem to have little to show for it !!!

It was raining first thing so decided to clean up the front brake back plates, they are original 56 F100 so had a fair bit of pitting on them, i had them blasted and then sanded them fairly smooth, then epoxy primed, hi build primed and then shot them in Black, they came out pretty good.








It has stopped raining so next up was to see how the master cylinder and brake pedal was gonna fit now I had the column in, straightaway I had a slight issue with the brake pedal fouling the column on half stroke, I had 2 solutions and the first was to put a crank in the pedal or move the pedal onto the outside of the pedal bracket, the first was a bit tricky as the pedal is made like an I beam so I decided to move the pedal to the outside of the bracket.
Once this was done I drilled the master cylinder mounting holes, the firewall is 1/2" thick at this point but I put in a strengthning plate at the rear inside the firewall.
Not much for 8 hrs work but its still progress.







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Great work! I love all your hang made pedal components.

Been collecting the parts for the braking system hydrulics, I really like the old style look of brass fittings and copper pipe, obviously copper is a nono for brakes so I will substitute Kunifer (Cupro-Nickel) for that.
I thought it would be easy to find all the fittings in brass but it appears a lot of them are not about, well not in imperial anyway, Anyway I found brass imperial 3/8" unf tee's easily enough, not so easy to find unf tube nuts though, anyway long story short I bought a selection of hexagon brass bar and popped into my mate Brians who just happens to have a small CNC setup, anyway poped back next day and he had produced me 50 x 3/8"UNF tube nuts Not only that but he copied the bleed screws that were in the cylinders too

The other problem piece was I wanted to use thru the frame fittings so these too had to be made on the lathe, these were made from 3/4" hexagon brass bar, they were turned down to 9/16" and threaded 9/16" -18, nuts were made from the offcuts.







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What was your technique for cutting the threads?

Did you do cut them on the lathe, or run a die?

Very nice and great to have buddies with that equipment!

Theads were cut with a tap & die

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Managed to get back on this today so started sorting out the doors, the doors that came with the cab were pretty aweful and fitted where they touched !!!
Solution was to make up part of the door inner front from the Coupe mould and graft it into the pickup doors.








Next a trial fit to mark the cutouts for the hinges.








The stainless steel hinges were marked and cut to length (they come longer than you need) then the mounting holes were marked and drilled.










I keep hearing about people that struggle to drill stainless so heres a couple of video's



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKUssO5_RqI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AS94-AdCKY

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You make it look easy, do you have a special grind on that drill bit? I am surprised you didn't make those hinges your self.

Jack.

Originally Posted by Jack F

You make it look easy, do you have a special grind on that drill bit? I am surprised you didn't make those hinges your self.

Jack.

No just a regular drill, At $160 a set its not worth making them Jack.

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Last couple of evenings i've been working on the doors, I've learnt a lot too !!!, you wouldn't believe how many small differences there are between 40 & 41 doors !!!
Anyway I got the new section bolted in and hinging.











Next job was to cut its opposite number out of the door inner










To hold the inner in place I cut some ply blocks the required thickness and temporaliy attached them to the door frame then used a couple of screws to position the door inner, I used tape to hold it in place around the screen pillars and used mat & resin to glue the parts together,
















Once the matt had cured I transferred to the bench, here you can see where some of the contours don't line up.












Next on the agenda is this top corner





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A bit more done last few evenings, these doors look like they have never been fitted, i'm not surprised really as they are all over the gaff !!!

Sorted the top front corner, a piece of plastic sheet was curved and held in place with some screws, the glass don't stick to the plastic and it leaves a nice smooth surface. I also replaced the return.


















Next I had to do something with the top return as it was as straight as a dogs hind leg !!! dotted line shows what had to be removed.














The bottom front corner was pretty mishapen so chopped it off and reglassed it.








Tomorrow I have to sort the bottom of the door which is like the sea !!!

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