Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

too bad that you mutilated that Browning part---------------------

I don't know if you've fiqured out how your going to run the cable, but I use AN dash 4 Teflon SS hose with a bilkhead fitting thru the firewall and a cable inside of it and then another bulkhead fitting at the other end------------perfect alignment ain't necessary like for a rod link

I was thinking the same thing, but didn't have the AN hose info which is cool to know. I bought mine from LOKAR and it's like Jerry describes with an added feature that the engine end has an extended bulkhead fitting, about an inch or more long, to provide adjustment. It looks like you've got plenty of length on the top end of your pedal to ensure that you get full travel at the carb. I was embarrassed to find that I had been driving mine for about a year with the throttle body hitting about 80% open with the pedal on the floor. It was an easy adjustment to fix, but I needed another person (or a brick for the gas pedal) to get it right. I'd suggest you measure the linear movement you need at the carb, and then transfer that amount to your floor to upper link to decide where to drill your hole in the firewall, especially since you already mounted the pedal pivot.

PS: That old Browning part can be had for ~$16 surplus replacement, so I wouldn't feel too bad about using it.

Roger: Thanks for the input. I will be using a adjustable throttle cable for the hook up. The assy isn't mounted yet, I just held it in place with a magnet for the pic's. I don't feel bad about the Browning part I had already used the backplate portion on a spade grip build for my gun. Here's a pic for those who would like to see where the scrap parts came from.


Hot Rods and Old Machine Gun whats more fun than that ! Here's one more pic of my shorty 1919. Now back to hot rods.

Originally Posted by rspears

I was thinking the same thing, but didn't have the AN hose info which is cool to know. I bought mine from LOKAR and it's like Jerry describes with an added feature that the engine end has an extended bulkhead fitting, about an inch or more long, to provide adjustment. It looks like you've got plenty of length on the top end of your pedal to ensure that you get full travel at the carb. I was embarrassed to find that I had been driving mine for about a year with the throttle body hitting about 80% open with the pedal on the floor. It was an easy adjustment to fix, but I needed another person (or a brick for the gas pedal) to get it right. I'd suggest you measure the linear movement you need at the carb, and then transfer that amount to your floor to upper link to decide where to drill your hole in the firewall, especially since you already mounted the pedal pivot.

PS: That old Browning part can be had for ~$16 surplus replacement, so I wouldn't feel too bad about using it.

you are the man can you mount that in the car haha.