Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Nice work again! How'd you come out on your door?

Door is on the back burner for now, hope to find another that fits better or one to use as parts to make this one fit.

They sell a tinning butter for leading I use it when I do leading makes it better BUT clean is the real answer

Charlie is right.. get some tinning butter.. it's a flux but I believe it'll wash clean after you're done adding lead.

I just don't think I can use any flux or tinning butter because I can't clean the acid residue that will be trapped between the lead and the crimped inside edge of the roof and cab . Here's a little reading on leading.
First thing you have to do is prep the whole surface you cannot tin any Paint, Primer, Oils, waxes, etc

I want to lead it but long term I think the un-washable seam will cause me problems.

What I should have done with the roof after sandblasting the edges prior to assembling so that I could easily lead it in is :
TIN ALL EDGES/SURFACES that I wanted to lead in. In doing the tinning I would be-able to clean up all the residue flux/acid and the leading in would have been a cake walk ! D@m it this makes me mad !

I think you can use the baking soda solution and neutralize it just fine. It even says that as one of the steps in your link.

Originally Posted by 34_40

I think you can use the baking soda solution and neutralize it just fine. It even says that as one of the steps in your link.

You can't neutralize what you can't reach. The inside has a rolled lip. The lead will seal it all from the outside. I want to lead it but can't. Unless I can sand or scotch bite it clean enough to get a filet of lead to stick there.

Originally Posted by Navy7797

You can't neutralize what you can't reach. The inside has a rolled lip. The lead will seal it all from the outside. I want to lead it but can't. Unless I can sand or scotch bite it clean enough to get a filet of lead to stick there.

You're in Catch 22 - you don't want to flux because you don't want the acids in the flux to wick into the rolled lip, but the lead absolutely will not stick to the parent metal without flux. Lead/solder won't stick to a base metal, even if it's sterilized, without flux. Seems to me that the small amount of residual acids in the rolled lip will be totally encased in lead, absent any oxygen. Once any bonded oxygen is used up it couldn't corrode further, could it? Just thinking, and scratching my head a bit on this one.
If I were still in the office I'd be chatting with one my ChemE co-workers over a cup of coffee.

Originally Posted by rspears

You're in Catch 22 - you don't want to flux because you don't want the acids in the flux to wick into the rolled lip, but the lead absolutely will not stick to the parent metal without flux. Lead/solder won't stick to a base metal, even if it's sterilized, without flux. Seems to me that the small amount of residual acids in the rolled lip will be totally encased in lead, absent any oxygen. Once any bonded oxygen is used up it couldn't corrode further, could it? Just thinking, and scratching my head a bit on this one.
If I were still in the office I'd be chatting with one my ChemE co-workers over a cup of coffee.

So I e-mailed a ChemE friend and he says my idea sucks He says that he's not a fan of "tinning" due to the potential for long term corrosion, so I explained that normally one tins, then washes with a baking soda neutralizing rinse before going on with the leading which doesn't work here due to the rolled joint.
Maybe you could have someone TIG the joint for you, then lead it? If that's not an option then maybe a skim coat of good quality body filler is in your future?

The big 3 leaded every roof joint for decades, they got away with it... wash / wipe the area down with a baking soda solution if your nervous about it and call it done. that's my 2 cents and with your dollar will get you absolutely nothing! ROFL...

I have been watching this and wondering if some epoxy glue/filler would fix this for Navy? This stuff has came a long ways over the years and you can do some amazing stuff with it. There's several different kinds out there. You'd want metal to metal and after you apply it and it cures, you can sand it like a filler and then proceed with either tiger hair or filler over it. I've seen some cool stuff done with it.

Epoxy glue would work but surfaces have to be clean

I don't understand the need for epoxy glue? Navy's wanting to lead the joint, but cannot tin it without flux getting into the rolled joint. If he's just going to use filler after the epoxy, why do you need epoxy? Just use filler on the joint as it is.

I'm assuming he's wanting to use lead as a more durable filler because bondo can crack in a stress joint. Since he's having issues getting the lead to stick, this is a great alternative. So I mentioned the epoxy because it is a lot stronger and will act like the lead but it just isn't an alloy or metal.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

I'm assuming he's wanting to use lead as a more durable filler because bondo can crack in a stress joint. Since he's having issues getting the lead to stick, this is a great alternative. So I mentioned the epoxy because it is a lot stronger and will act like the lead but it just isn't an alloy or metal.

But you're promoting a skim coat of body filler (I hesitate to use the trade name "bondo") after working down the epoxy filler, not trying to bridge lead over an epoxy seal joint, correct? I'll wait for more input from Navy before I post anything further here.