Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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40FordDeluxe, Jerry, thanks for the feed back. I'm getting smarter every time you leave feed back. Its a good thing I have cutoff wheels, plasma cutter, band saws, saws-alls and a hack saw or two because ( the spring perches don't look like they are welded to the axle housing tubes yet??? ) I'll need them to do some cutting. I aligned the rear straight to the trans, no thought of load ! Maybe no thought at all. I really appreciate your help, I'll get this truck right if I have to build it twice !

you won't have to cut them off---you can get tapered spring wedges at any spring shop---works for drive shaft angle or front end caster on leaf spring axles
And I appreciate your comments on our suggestions---so many just blunder on with no feed back

Jerry's right on the shims. You can also get the shims with a hole in the center so you can bolt them under your bottom spring plate so it is a more permanent piece.

Thanks guys. I've looked at some shims on the web and think I might just put my Mill to work and machine a set, plenty of raw steel laying around the shop. It only got up to 39 degrees in the shop today so I didn't get a lot done, just welded the new cross member. Have a great weekend everybody !

Today's activity involves the radiator mounting and I'm looking for inputs. There should be some rubber spacers/bushings at ? I have a bolt/spring kit for the lower rad mounts. Here's some pic's. Do I bolt the rad support mount tight on the rad or ?




Another question, my fan shroud is plastic of some sort and came with 4 sheet metal screws for mounting. I'm thinking of drill and tap and use 10-32 screws maybe 6 instead of 4.

I use a rubber pad on the bottom and top mounts just to keep some of the vibration from working on the welds in the radiator. As for the fan, 6-10/32 screws with nylock nuts should do fine IMO

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I use a rubber pad on the bottom and top mounts just to keep some of the vibration from working on the welds in the radiator. As for the fan, 6-10/32 screws with nylock nuts should do fine IMO

Thanks for the feedback ! I wish I could use the lock nuts but the flange won't allow it. I'll have to tap the flange/shell and use some locktite maybe.

Gordy,
I overlooked your questions on this one. On mine I used the standard spring loaded mounts at the bottom and put a rubber pad nominal 3x3x1/8" thick under each of the two mounting tabs at the bottom. The top of mine has a pair of adapter plates that hook to the Carolina Customs hood top mounting bars that brace back to the firewall. I didn't use any rubber at the top.

For the fan, mine came from PRC with a shroud made from a sheet of aluminum with a 16" hole matching the fan diameter. At the top and bottom they bent over a nominal 1/2" tab to close the space, and on the sides the made a similar 90 degree bend with a nominal 3/4" tab, then bent out a 1/4" mounting flange which aligns with the two mounting channels on the sides of the radiator. This gives a little "box" that sits 1/2" off of the radiator core, matches the core area, and has mounting flanges that are held to the radiator with four 10-32 screws near the corners. I've had zero problems with over heating using this shroud, and my unintentional "test" was forgetting to hit my "ACC" button one day, and noticing the pegged temp gauge after idling in traffic for a few minutes Punched the "ACC" power, and watched the temp gauge start falling within ten seconds, and sitting at 190F within less than a minute. Proved the goodness of a shrouded fan to me!!

Originally Posted by rspears

Gordy,
I overlooked your questions on this one. On mine I used the standard spring loaded mounts at the bottom and put a rubber pad nominal 3x3x1/8" thick under each of the two mounting tabs at the bottom. The top of mine has a pair of adapter plates that hook to the Carolina Customs hood top mounting bars that brace back to the firewall. I didn't use any rubber at the top.

For the fan, mine came from PRC with a shroud made from a sheet of aluminum with a 16" hole matching the fan diameter. At the top and bottom they bent over a nominal 1/2" tab to close the space, and on the sides the made a similar 90 degree bend with a nominal 3/4" tab, then bent out a 1/4" mounting flange which aligns with the two mounting channels on the sides of the radiator. This gives a little "box" that sits 1/2" off of the radiator core, matches the core area, and has mounting flanges that are held to the radiator with four 10-32 screws near the corners. I've had zero problems with over heating using this shroud, and my unintentional "test" was forgetting to hit my "ACC" button one day, and noticing the pegged temp gauge after idling in traffic for a few minutes Punched the "ACC" power, and watched the temp gauge start falling within ten seconds, and sitting at 190F within less than a minute. Proved the goodness of a shrouded fan to me!!

I've a PRC radiator with a flange around the edges but no excess to the back side of the flange so it's screws or machine sdcrews into tapped holes to hold the fan assy on. Its a 17" and the shroud covers all the back side of the radiator, so I guess that'll be plenty. With aluminum I always worry about vibration and wear. The bottom mounting is all set just like yours but the side ? I have to keep the side mount bolts from vibrating in the radiator frame/shell.
Now that I think about it, maybe I should put a washer, than a nut, tighten and than use a rubber bushing over the bolt inside the bracket along with a nut to secure it.

Tell me about " Carolina Customs hood top mounting bars" , replaces original hood hinges ?
Thanks for the input !!!!

Originally Posted by Navy7797

Tell me about " Carolina Customs hood top mounting bars" , replaces original hood hinges ?
Thanks for the input !!!!

I was simply pointing out that my top radiator/grille brace does double duty. Stock '33/34's had the cowl brace pair that went from the top of the radiator back to the top of cowl, but I'm using a pair of billet aluminum units that I attached to the top outside of the radiator, running back to the outside of the cowl. The hood top has bars that mount four pins that latch the hood top down to the mounting bars. Scroll down to the "Hood Top Only Latch Kit" - single opening hood latch kit Triple opening hood hinge/latch kit hood brace kit No bearing on your '40 installation, but they do sell some other nifty stuff.

How about riv-nuts?

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

How about riv-nuts?

Jerry I was thinking of those or something like that I used on airplanes. I guess I'll Google it up and find a source. D#m it sometimes I just want to rush things instead of waiting to get the right stuff. It sure would look and last better if I used them. Thanks for the input.

I only mentioned them because I would bet you knew what they were and how to use them

Roger and Jerry, Thanks for the feed back.

If you mount a radiator from the 4 corners( two botton/two top) instaed of the factory used tri point mounting, you will eventually have a failure from frame twisting as the tri point system does put the radiator in a bind like the 4 points---sorta like the 4 link rears vs the 3 link system--