Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree815Likes

Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 26 of 73 FirstFirst ... 16 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 36 ... LastLast
Results 376 to 390 of 1085
  1. #376
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,778

    Sounds great. Always feels good to hear them fire up for the first time
    Last edited by stovens; 02-28-2014 at 09:14 PM.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  2. #377
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    759

    Todays activity was placing the cab on the frame to match up gas pedal linkage and anything else that I could get done before pulling the engine. I decided that I needed a block to hold the tranny dipstick off the firewall. A little milling and this is what I came up with.




    inputs welcome

  3. #378
    randyr's Avatar
    randyr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Santa Monica
    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
    Posts
    1,988

    Nice milling!!
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  4. #379
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    759

    Here's a question for anybody who knows about 40 ford pickups. I have a 42 cab that has gas tank straps in the back of the cab. Are/were these used for anything in a 1940 ford , did they even exist in the 40. I'm planning on taking them out but don't want to if there's another purpose .
    Last edited by Navy7797; 03-06-2014 at 06:28 AM.

  5. #380
    Elder Rodder's Avatar
    Elder Rodder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Amherst
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford PU
    Posts
    4

    You might want to look into Chassis Engineering's crossmember replacement pieces that restore strength to the removed parts. You have the holes where the original stamped steel side went, so find some replacements for them(which CE might have listed) and bolt everything back in to get your geometry back to stock parameters. I'd also leave the stock rear crossmember in the frame and use CE's parallel spring kit, which is a bolt in, and in my '40 PU I put a Ford 9 inch into the springs, and just ground the lip of the crossmember to be sure it cleared the 9 inch. Keeps everything strong back there, as the rear frame end crossmember is not strong enough alone. boxing the frame is a good move, for the strength to keep from fame flexing (which Ford made the frame so it would flex) and cutting and welding it ruins that, so better to make it so it no longer tries to flex, and prevent cracks in it where it no longer can. Also check-out CE'sblot-in front crossmember for rack & pinion steering (Mustang II). It works really well, and has adjustable upper spring pockets to front height. Their stuff works really well when you follow their fabrication instructions.

  6. #381
    Elder Rodder's Avatar
    Elder Rodder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Amherst
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford PU
    Posts
    4

    Elder Rodder

     



    You might want to look into Chassis Engineering's crossmember replacement pieces that restore strength to the removed parts. You have the holes where the original stamped steel side went, so find some replacements for them(which CE might have listed) and bolt everything back in to get your geometry back to stock parameters. I'd also leave the stock rear crossmember in the frame and use CE's parallel spring kit, which is a bolt in, and in my '40 PU I put a Ford 9 inch into the springs, and just ground the lip of the crossmember to be sure it cleared the 9 inch. Keeps everything strong back there, as the rear frame end crossmember is not strong enough alone. boxing the frame is a good move, for the strength to keep from fame flexing (which Ford made the frame so it would flex) and cutting and welding it ruins that, so better to make it so it no longer tries to flex, and prevent cracks in it where it no longer can. Also check-out CE'sblot-in front crossmember for rack & pinion steering (Mustang II). It works really well, and has adjustable upper spring pockets to front height. Their stuff works really well when you follow their fabrication instructions.

  7. #382
    Elder Rodder's Avatar
    Elder Rodder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Amherst
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford PU
    Posts
    4

    Elder Rodder

     



    I believe the two holes at the upper cab back are to fasten the seat back (which was made to swing up originally) and had has nothing to do with the gas tank. In the last picture a small tab welded to the cab was the rear mount for the under seat 20 gallon gas tank, and the other two front mounts were welded to the seat riser. You should put the riser back if you have it, or find an original. It's a good base for a bench seat (mine was a jump-seat from a 1971 GMC Travelall that was narrowed at the front to match the cab taper, re-upholstered, and works well with my cab back trim (right up against it). I went to a rear mounted poly gas tank (really tough 1/2" thick stuff) and it fits nicely under the pickup bed. Of course, my cab was a '46 Ford donor, and the frame is a '40 Ford PU, which had the holes for the rear tank they used. Some engineer got cute after the war and mounted '46-48 tanks under the seat. Got tired of sitting on 20 gallons of fuel and put it back where it should be. Good luck with the project.

  8. #383
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    759

    Roger: I had to buy one of these tools but for $9.95 it was worth every penny. Thanks again for telling/showing me the tool. (:

    .
    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    That set should come with a nifty plastic tool that's both an insulation cutting tool, to get the right amount of electrode exposed; and a crimping tool, to get the ends on just right.
    Attachment 60563

    If one doesn't come in the package you should pick one up because they make the job of installing ends an easy, repetitive task with good results. I think I've got two or three of them out in the shop if you don't get one and want to wait for snail mail.

  9. #384
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    7,297
    Blog Entries
    1

    Nice work on your dipstick mounting piece. I just bought an anchor locking lokar dipstick for my 72 Chevy. Dang, all this stuff has gone up since the last ones I've purchased!
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  10. #385
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    759

    Quote Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe View Post
    Nice work on your dipstick mounting piece. I just bought an anchor locking lokar dipstick for my 72 Chevy. Dang, all this stuff has gone up since the last ones I've purchased!
    Yup it cost a lot more than anybody knows until you start building. Every time I think I have and end cost figured out I remember something else that I need. But it's cheaper than building airplanes !
    randyr and rspears like this.

  11. #386
    BAM55's Avatar
    BAM55 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Inglewood
    Car Year, Make, Model: 55 Chevy 210 and 58 Chevy Truck
    Posts
    267

    Quote Originally Posted by Navy7797 View Post
    Yup it cost a lot more than anybody knows until you start building. Every time I think I have and end cost figured out I remember something else that I need. But it's cheaper than building airplanes !
    Speaking the truth thats for sure.



    It took me a while but I made it through the thread and I really enjoyed seeing your project. I recently worked on a nice 45 Chevy Truck for a friend and it made me really want an earlier truck Ford, Chevy, Stud, or International. It does not matter to me.

    Anyway nice build thread.

  12. #387
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    759

    Bam55 Thanks for reading my post. I have read yours and wish I had your metal skills, VERY nice work.

  13. #388
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Seguin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
    Posts
    759

    Today I changed the exhaust manifolds to Headers. I picked up a set of stainless steel headers for $100. so I decided to put them on.

    Bent the pipe to get max clearance around oil filter in a attempt to keep the heat away.


    Starter clearance is all I could get without getting the pipe to low.

  14. #389
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    7,297
    Blog Entries
    1

    Nice work and those headers look really nice. That should be good on the room. Way better than most headers on trucks I've had.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  15. #390
    MP&C's Avatar
    MP&C is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Leonardtown
    Car Year, Make, Model: Walking
    Posts
    1,214

    Quote Originally Posted by Navy7797 View Post
    Here's a question for anybody who knows about 40 ford pickups. I have a 42 cab that has gas tank straps in the back of the cab. Are/were these used for anything in a 1940 ford , did they even exist in the 40. I'm planning on taking them out but don't want to if there's another purpose .
    I think they will also provide a bit of support to the outer skin, as well as to the brace under the window. They would serve well to give you a mounting point for interior panels.. Removed, the outer skin may be more inclined to flop around for more noise in the cab??
    Robert

Reply To Thread
Page 26 of 73 FirstFirst ... 16 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 36 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink