Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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Sounds great. Always feels good to hear them fire up for the first time

Todays activity was placing the cab on the frame to match up gas pedal linkage and anything else that I could get done before pulling the engine. I decided that I needed a block to hold the tranny dipstick off the firewall. A little milling and this is what I came up with.




inputs welcome

Nice milling!!

Here's a question for anybody who knows about 40 ford pickups. I have a 42 cab that has gas tank straps in the back of the cab. Are/were these used for anything in a 1940 ford , did they even exist in the 40. I'm planning on taking them out but don't want to if there's another purpose .

You might want to look into Chassis Engineering's crossmember replacement pieces that restore strength to the removed parts. You have the holes where the original stamped steel side went, so find some replacements for them(which CE might have listed) and bolt everything back in to get your geometry back to stock parameters. I'd also leave the stock rear crossmember in the frame and use CE's parallel spring kit, which is a bolt in, and in my '40 PU I put a Ford 9 inch into the springs, and just ground the lip of the crossmember to be sure it cleared the 9 inch. Keeps everything strong back there, as the rear frame end crossmember is not strong enough alone. boxing the frame is a good move, for the strength to keep from fame flexing (which Ford made the frame so it would flex) and cutting and welding it ruins that, so better to make it so it no longer tries to flex, and prevent cracks in it where it no longer can. Also check-out CE'sblot-in front crossmember for rack & pinion steering (Mustang II). It works really well, and has adjustable upper spring pockets to front height. Their stuff works really well when you follow their fabrication instructions.

You might want to look into Chassis Engineering's crossmember replacement pieces that restore strength to the removed parts. You have the holes where the original stamped steel side went, so find some replacements for them(which CE might have listed) and bolt everything back in to get your geometry back to stock parameters. I'd also leave the stock rear crossmember in the frame and use CE's parallel spring kit, which is a bolt in, and in my '40 PU I put a Ford 9 inch into the springs, and just ground the lip of the crossmember to be sure it cleared the 9 inch. Keeps everything strong back there, as the rear frame end crossmember is not strong enough alone. boxing the frame is a good move, for the strength to keep from fame flexing (which Ford made the frame so it would flex) and cutting and welding it ruins that, so better to make it so it no longer tries to flex, and prevent cracks in it where it no longer can. Also check-out CE'sblot-in front crossmember for rack & pinion steering (Mustang II). It works really well, and has adjustable upper spring pockets to front height. Their stuff works really well when you follow their fabrication instructions.

I believe the two holes at the upper cab back are to fasten the seat back (which was made to swing up originally) and had has nothing to do with the gas tank. In the last picture a small tab welded to the cab was the rear mount for the under seat 20 gallon gas tank, and the other two front mounts were welded to the seat riser. You should put the riser back if you have it, or find an original. It's a good base for a bench seat (mine was a jump-seat from a 1971 GMC Travelall that was narrowed at the front to match the cab taper, re-upholstered, and works well with my cab back trim (right up against it). I went to a rear mounted poly gas tank (really tough 1/2" thick stuff) and it fits nicely under the pickup bed. Of course, my cab was a '46 Ford donor, and the frame is a '40 Ford PU, which had the holes for the rear tank they used. Some engineer got cute after the war and mounted '46-48 tanks under the seat. Got tired of sitting on 20 gallons of fuel and put it back where it should be. Good luck with the project.

Roger: I had to buy one of these tools but for $9.95 it was worth every penny. Thanks again for telling/showing me the tool. (:

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Originally Posted by rspears

That set should come with a nifty plastic tool that's both an insulation cutting tool, to get the right amount of electrode exposed; and a crimping tool, to get the ends on just right.
Attachment 60563

If one doesn't come in the package you should pick one up because they make the job of installing ends an easy, repetitive task with good results. I think I've got two or three of them out in the shop if you don't get one and want to wait for snail mail.

Nice work on your dipstick mounting piece. I just bought an anchor locking lokar dipstick for my 72 Chevy. Dang, all this stuff has gone up since the last ones I've purchased!

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Nice work on your dipstick mounting piece. I just bought an anchor locking lokar dipstick for my 72 Chevy. Dang, all this stuff has gone up since the last ones I've purchased!

Yup it cost a lot more than anybody knows until you start building. Every time I think I have and end cost figured out I remember something else that I need. But it's cheaper than building airplanes !

Originally Posted by Navy7797

Yup it cost a lot more than anybody knows until you start building. Every time I think I have and end cost figured out I remember something else that I need. But it's cheaper than building airplanes !

Speaking the truth thats for sure.



It took me a while but I made it through the thread and I really enjoyed seeing your project. I recently worked on a nice 45 Chevy Truck for a friend and it made me really want an earlier truck Ford, Chevy, Stud, or International. It does not matter to me.

Anyway nice build thread.

Bam55 Thanks for reading my post. I have read yours and wish I had your metal skills, VERY nice work.

Today I changed the exhaust manifolds to Headers. I picked up a set of stainless steel headers for $100. so I decided to put them on.

Bent the pipe to get max clearance around oil filter in a attempt to keep the heat away.


Starter clearance is all I could get without getting the pipe to low.

Nice work and those headers look really nice. That should be good on the room. Way better than most headers on trucks I've had.

Originally Posted by Navy7797

Here's a question for anybody who knows about 40 ford pickups. I have a 42 cab that has gas tank straps in the back of the cab. Are/were these used for anything in a 1940 ford , did they even exist in the 40. I'm planning on taking them out but don't want to if there's another purpose .

I think they will also provide a bit of support to the outer skin, as well as to the brace under the window. They would serve well to give you a mounting point for interior panels.. Removed, the outer skin may be more inclined to flop around for more noise in the cab??