He might have what you want.
1940 1941 1942 1946 1947 Ford Truck Right Door | eBay
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He might have what you want.
1940 1941 1942 1946 1947 Ford Truck Right Door | eBay
You may want to check if the cab is twisted, but I think you said the doors you have are different. Man I feel for ya.
Little more work on the cab roof and a new rear cab corner (2nd one same side ). Here's a tip for those whom are going to put a cab corner in " have the door hung or be prepared to re do it . The roof is getting better worked out some dents and folded the inside lip back over the the new roof.
Was thinking of leading in the joint on the back of the cab but the lead just doesn't want to take. I'll use 3m seam self leveling sealer.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0a2c6ab7.jpg
inside lip
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse018c648.jpg
cab corner
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb7c4a580.jpg
roof post
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbae081cc.jpg
Have I told you that you are my hero?!?!?! No Fear! :LOL::LOL:
If the lead won't stick, the metal isn't clean enough. You can try a solution of weak muriatic acid and then neutralize it or rinse with lots of water.... If you do use an acid - keep the door open and use some fans to pull air through the building....
Nice work again! How'd you come out on your door?
They sell a tinning butter for leading I use it when I do leading makes it better BUT clean is the real answer
Charlie is right.. get some tinning butter.. it's a flux but I believe it'll wash clean after you're done adding lead.
I just don't think I can use any flux or tinning butter because I can't clean the acid residue that will be trapped between the lead and the crimped inside edge of the roof and cab . Here's a little reading on leading.
First thing you have to do is prep the whole surface you cannot tin any Paint, Primer, Oils, waxes, etc
I want to lead it but long term I think the un-washable seam will cause me problems.
What I should have done with the roof after sandblasting the edges prior to assembling so that I could easily lead it in is :
TIN ALL EDGES/SURFACES that I wanted to lead in. In doing the tinning I would be-able to clean up all the residue flux/acid and the leading in would have been a cake walk ! D@m it this makes me mad !
I think you can use the baking soda solution and neutralize it just fine. It even says that as one of the steps in your link.
You're in Catch 22 - you don't want to flux because you don't want the acids in the flux to wick into the rolled lip, but the lead absolutely will not stick to the parent metal without flux. Lead/solder won't stick to a base metal, even if it's sterilized, without flux. Seems to me that the small amount of residual acids in the rolled lip will be totally encased in lead, absent any oxygen. Once any bonded oxygen is used up it couldn't corrode further, could it? Just thinking, and scratching my head a bit on this one. :confused::HMMM::confused:
If I were still in the office I'd be chatting with one my ChemE co-workers over a cup of coffee.;)
The big 3 leaded every roof joint for decades, they got away with it... wash / wipe the area down with a baking soda solution if your nervous about it and call it done. that's my 2 cents and with your dollar will get you absolutely nothing! ROFL...