Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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I knew that....my fat fingers didn't


.

That's a pretty loom set up.

I'd lean towards making your own so they'll be perfect

Times 3... get a "universal" style et and do the cap end yourself, then you can make the length to what you need.

Just ordered a set of Taylor's, thanks for the input !

That set should come with a nifty plastic tool that's both an insulation cutting tool, to get the right amount of electrode exposed; and a crimping tool, to get the ends on just right.
A_Taylor Tool.jpg

If one doesn't come in the package you should pick one up because they make the job of installing ends an easy, repetitive task with good results. I think I've got two or three of them out in the shop if you don't get one and want to wait for snail mail.

Originally Posted by rspears

That set should come with a nifty plastic tool that's both an insulation cutting tool, to get the right amount of electrode exposed; and a crimping tool, to get the ends on just right.
Attachment 60563

If one doesn't come in the package you should pick one up because they make the job of installing ends an easy, repetitive task with good results. I think I've got two or three of them out in the shop if you don't get one and want to wait for snail mail.

Roger: Thanks thats most gracious of you to offer, I hope one will come with the wires. Thanks for the inputs.

Roger: I had to buy one of these tools but for $9.95 it was worth every penny. Thanks again for telling/showing me the tool. (:

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Originally Posted by rspears

That set should come with a nifty plastic tool that's both an insulation cutting tool, to get the right amount of electrode exposed; and a crimping tool, to get the ends on just right.
Attachment 60563

If one doesn't come in the package you should pick one up because they make the job of installing ends an easy, repetitive task with good results. I think I've got two or three of them out in the shop if you don't get one and want to wait for snail mail.

Dang thats a nifty tool.. I picked up a set of pliers made for the task ( also from Taylors ) but are a PITA! They are clumbsy and hard to use and rarely give a clean decent looking crimp!

Originally Posted by 34_40

Dang thats a nifty tool.. I picked up a set of pliers made for the task ( also from Taylors ) but are a PITA! They are clumbsy and hard to use and rarely give a clean decent looking crimp!

Mike, I bought a separately packaged tool at the recommendation of the old counter guy at the performance shop, saying that I would be glad I had it after doing one wire, and then found that there was one packed in the box of the Taylor Universal wire set that I had purchased. The packaged one got hung on a nail to go back but never made the trip

The two pieces form a solid block about 1.5" square with ears on top to catch on the jaws of the vise. A nifty cutting guide is provided where you set the wire in place at your marked finished length and cut off the excess, leaving the right length "extra". Set the wire in place, then put a razor blade/knife at the "step" and rotate the wire, taking away the right length of insulation to leave a perfect, fully intact center conductor. Put the boot over the end, put the terminal in place, put the two halves of the block together and a turn or two on the vise handle makes a perfect crimp every time. Soooo much easier than anything I ever used before!!

Today was battery box day. I fabed the box from 16 gauge sheet, angle iron and restrains that came with the battery. Still a little more to do but this is the bulk of it. Inputs welcome .

Will you have a removable panel in the floor for access? If so, does it interfere with the seat location? Since it's a dry cell battery you could mount it on it's side for easier access to the terminals if there's no hole in the floor. Sorta like the pic in post #299.

Originally Posted by randyr

Will you have a removable panel in the floor for access? If so, does it interfere with the seat location? Since it's a dry cell battery you could mount it on it's side for easier access to the terminals if there's no hole in the floor. Sorta like the pic in post #299.

Battery slides in from the back, connections are on the side towards the tranny. I don't worry about access other than installing and removal. If I need a jump I'll go straight to the on-off switch that will be on the fire wall or someplace that has easy access.

Sounds great. Always feels good to hear them fire up for the first time

Todays activity was placing the cab on the frame to match up gas pedal linkage and anything else that I could get done before pulling the engine. I decided that I needed a block to hold the tranny dipstick off the firewall. A little milling and this is what I came up with.




inputs welcome

Nice milling!!