Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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I think the move to stagger rear shocks came with the mid 60- early/mid 70s on the mustangs and then the Camaro /novas that were track raced with the boss302 and sbc 302 in that road racing era of the small block muscle cars---spread to the bigger engine mustangs and others---later Ford even went to 4 shocks on the rear of mustangs--don't know what year off top of my head but they had two shocks normal location and two more above axle length wise with otter frame rail---------

You posted pictures of the Spad earlier in another thread didn't you? Sure seems like I had seen it before, and I recall the fantastic wood work in it, and the details in the construction. Beautiful!!

Navy, I for one say post up a thread on that bad boy when you have time. I love early war birds. I'm sure I'm not the only one here either.

Earliest staggered shock setup I know of was in the 68 Cobra Jet Mustang.

Navy, enjoyed the plane pics again! Yes, please do a thread if you find the time! That is just beautiful..

I'll offer an opinion on your shock setup.. leave it alone and see what it drives like.. then decide! Hey! You ASKED!

Yes please post some more plane pics. Beautiful work from what I could see!

And so it begins . Here's some pic's from todays work.
1st a new cross member cut to length. The question for this is how much lean forward and inward for the shocks ?

2nd The steering. The pic's show's "tack welded" steering heim joint brackets. The routing of the shafts are what I see as working. What do you think, does it look right ?

You only need the rear most heim and you can eliminate the rag joint---the steering component companies have u joint assy with a dampner incorporated into the u jpoint---also , I'm sure this is just a mock up pic and you will phase the two upper joints so that they are correctly in phase , other wisw you will get a feedback that's kind of notchy from the steering

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

You only need the rear most heim and you can eliminate the rag joint---the steering component companies have u joint assy with a dampner incorporated into the u jpoint---also , I'm sure this is just a mock up pic and you will phase the two upper joints so that they are correctly in phase , other wisw you will get a feedback that's kind of notchy from the steering

Jerry: Thanks for the feed back. I know the rag joint is ugly but does it pose any troubles, its just another item I spent money on and hate to buy something else ? The reason I put it in was to compensate for any movement of the cab when there's frame twist/flex. I don't know I maybe way off with that.
Is the phase of the 2 lower joints correct ?? I don't know whats correct.
I'm looking for an education here as to this items, I like to know the what and whys.
I REALLY do appreciate your in puts !

Here's another look at the new shock mount set up. I'm going with 2 forward of the axle. As they sit they are 6" forward and 4" leaning inward, shocks are fully extended and wheels off the ground. Is this OK or what would be better ??

Shocks look fine, maybe tap the top down a few 32nds so it'll lessen the chance of the shocks carrying the weight.

Go here and see a bunch of drive line stuff that'll help, Driveline 101

Originally Posted by 34_40

Shocks look fine, maybe tap the top down a few 32nds so it'll lessen the chance of the shocks carrying the weight.

Go here and see a bunch of drive line stuff that'll help, Driveline 101

30_40 Thanks, I started reading the Driveline 101 wish I had read it sooner.

Gordy, with most of these threads that I follow, including my own, I always learn way more than I ever contribute!! Thus, I look forward to responses regarding suspension, etc. since some of what I learn here may affect how I continue with my own project.

I'm certainly no frame or suspension guru of any kind but since you have boxed your frame and added that beefy x-member, I would think you've removed the lion's share of the twisting & flexing, compared to how Henry originally made it. Plus, I highly doubt you'll ever be hauling a 1/2 ton of gravel or a thousand pounds of plywood in it. I say all that because some of your concerns about suspension travel & frame flexing may never be an issue for this truck given how you're probably going to drive it. Just a thought...

As always, looking forward to the next wave of comments & progress.

Originally Posted by randyr

Gordy, with most of these threads that I follow, including my own, I always learn way more than I ever contribute!! Thus, I look forward to responses regarding suspension, etc. since some of what I learn here may affect how I continue with my own project.

I'm certainly no frame or suspension guru of any kind but since you have boxed your frame and added that beefy x-member, I would think you've removed the lion's share of the twisting & flexing, compared to how Henry originally made it. Plus, I highly doubt you'll ever be hauling a 1/2 ton of gravel or a thousand pounds of plywood in it. I say all that because some of your concerns about suspension travel & frame flexing may never be an issue for this truck given how you're probably going to drive it. Just a thought...

As always, looking forward to the next wave of comments & progress.

Randy: Some times I just worry to much about everything, I also don't want to screw up to badly if I can prevent it. I'm just wanting to do it the right way, within my means and get an education on it all at the same time. Oh yea and have fun doing it.
Your right I doubt I'll ever haul anything heavy in it or anything at all if I finish out the bed nicely.
Thanks for your inputs !

I agree with Randy that I doubt your frame flexes or twists a lot being boxed and having that nice cross member. Shocks are looking good.

well I guess Driveline 101 explains PHASING of the u joints---
I agree with 34 40 about lowering the shock tops just a wee bit so the weight won't hang on the shoch when truck jacked up off ground
The shock mounting angle really just effects the dampening rates a bit because of the angle ---one of the main oem reasons to angle them is for clearance during full suspension travel and /or clearance for the exhaust over the axle. Once you have them mounted in regards to there travel length, I would suggest fabbibg a mock up tube at the shock ride height length so the truck chassis sets at that level while you do the drive line angle work---the spring perches don't look like they are welded to the axle housing tubes yet??? that is good as you can tip the housing for the u joint angle before you tack them-----