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Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup
          
   
   

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  1. #226
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    think about some oval tubing for that area

    and it looks like the trans pan is lower anyway

  2. #227
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u
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    Today's activity was gas Pedal related. I either don't like or can't afford the pedal assy's on the market so I decidedto make my own. Just had to buy the 2 bronze bushings for the rotating shaft, had all the rest. Used 3/8 rod, 1/8 plate, 1/4 plate and a handle off a Browning 1919 Light Machine Gun (had a spare). The over all length of the cable arm is yet to be determined, made it plenty long. Also the arm is just held with a set screw at this time but it will be welded once all is set, or maybe another screw added .
    The parts

    The assy.

    johnboy and 40FordDeluxe like this.

  3. #228
    rspears's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
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    Nice job on the fabrication, looks great!!
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  4. #229
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks for the compliment, I ready enjoy making my own stuff if I can.
    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    Nice job on the fabrication, looks great!!

  5. #230
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    I agree, that's way cool! Good Job.

  6. #231
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    too bad that you mutilated that Browning part---------------------

    I don't know if you've fiqured out how your going to run the cable, but I use AN dash 4 Teflon SS hose with a bilkhead fitting thru the firewall and a cable inside of it and then another bulkhead fitting at the other end------------perfect alignment ain't necessary like for a rod link

  7. #232
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    too bad that you mutilated that Browning part---------------------

    I don't know if you've fiqured out how your going to run the cable, but I use AN dash 4 Teflon SS hose with a bilkhead fitting thru the firewall and a cable inside of it and then another bulkhead fitting at the other end------------perfect alignment ain't necessary like for a rod link
    I was thinking the same thing, but didn't have the AN hose info which is cool to know. I bought mine from LOKAR and it's like Jerry describes with an added feature that the engine end has an extended bulkhead fitting, about an inch or more long, to provide adjustment. It looks like you've got plenty of length on the top end of your pedal to ensure that you get full travel at the carb. I was embarrassed to find that I had been driving mine for about a year with the throttle body hitting about 80% open with the pedal on the floor. It was an easy adjustment to fix, but I needed another person (or a brick for the gas pedal) to get it right. I'd suggest you measure the linear movement you need at the carb, and then transfer that amount to your floor to upper link to decide where to drill your hole in the firewall, especially since you already mounted the pedal pivot.

    PS: That old Browning part can be had for ~$16 surplus replacement, so I wouldn't feel too bad about using it.
    Last edited by rspears; 01-11-2014 at 08:45 AM.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  8. #233
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    Sweet! Now when you put the pedal to the metal, you'll have to be carefull, since your running full auto parts! Very clever use of parts. Wouldn't mind actually having a 1919 in the old collection!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  9. #234
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    and that's full automatic vs full automotive ?????????????????

  10. #235
    johnboy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Someone once said: "Imagination is of greater value than knowledge."

    That is: the ability to see something not as it is, but as it could be.

    What you did with the Browning handle epitomised that.

    That is very very clever.

    Top marks that man . . . bloody gorgeous!
    johnboy
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  11. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Navy7797 View Post
    Today's activity was gas Pedal related. I either don't like or can't afford the pedal assy's on the market so I decidedto make my own. Just had to buy the 2 bronze bushings for the rotating shaft, had all the rest. Used 3/8 rod, 1/8 plate, 1/4 plate and a handle off a Browning 1919 Light Machine Gun (had a spare). The over all length of the cable arm is yet to be determined, made it plenty long. Also the arm is just held with a set screw at this time but it will be welded once all is set, or maybe another screw added .
    The parts

    The assy.



    Nice pedal

    ..
    Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.

  12. #237
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Roger: Thanks for the input. I will be using a adjustable throttle cable for the hook up. The assy isn't mounted yet, I just held it in place with a magnet for the pic's. I don't feel bad about the Browning part I had already used the backplate portion on a spade grip build for my gun. Here's a pic for those who would like to see where the scrap parts came from.


    Hot Rods and Old Machine Gun whats more fun than that ! Here's one more pic of my shorty 1919. Now back to hot rods.

    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    I was thinking the same thing, but didn't have the AN hose info which is cool to know. I bought mine from LOKAR and it's like Jerry describes with an added feature that the engine end has an extended bulkhead fitting, about an inch or more long, to provide adjustment. It looks like you've got plenty of length on the top end of your pedal to ensure that you get full travel at the carb. I was embarrassed to find that I had been driving mine for about a year with the throttle body hitting about 80% open with the pedal on the floor. It was an easy adjustment to fix, but I needed another person (or a brick for the gas pedal) to get it right. I'd suggest you measure the linear movement you need at the carb, and then transfer that amount to your floor to upper link to decide where to drill your hole in the firewall, especially since you already mounted the pedal pivot.

    PS: That old Browning part can be had for ~$16 surplus replacement, so I wouldn't feel too bad about using it.
    TerpnGator likes this.

  13. #238
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    you are the man can you mount that in the car haha.

  14. #239
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    Nice work and I like the pedal! Your 1919 is awesome!
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
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  15. #240
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    With more time than money I decided to machine my own steering column bracket. I had the aluminum and the tools so why not ? Here the pic's so far.






    Have to get some cap screws to fasten the 2 parts together.

    My Steering column bracket for the firewall. To be welded to the wall.
    johnboy, randyr and 40FordDeluxe like this.

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