Thread: 55 Wagon Progress
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03-26-2013 10:55 PM #46
johnboy
Mountain man. (Retired.)
Some mistakes are too much fun to be made only once.
I don't know everything about anything, and I don't know anything about lots of things.
'47 Ford sedan. 350 -- 350, Jaguar irs + ifs.
'49 Morris Minor. Datsun 1500cc, 5sp manual, Marina front axle, Nissan rear axle.
'51 Ford school bus. Chev 400 ci Vortec 5 sp manual + Gearvendors 2sp, 2000 Chev lwb dually chassis and axles.
'64 A.C. Cobra replica. Ford 429, C6 auto, Torana ifs, Jaguar irs.
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03-28-2013 09:11 PM #47
Ok, one side left to go...
Trimming to fit..........
Welding the layers together....
After dressing the welds..... I do have a couple pin holes to fix, but the gap is looking much better.
Robert
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03-28-2013 11:57 PM #48
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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Wow, very nice work! That looks amazing. Clear and move on.Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
Tire Sizes
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03-29-2013 08:29 AM #49
Robert great coverage and pics of the repairs . This does give a great insight to doing some tedious work for alignment on the panel . I did it to the mustang doors and fenders .
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04-03-2013 08:29 PM #50
Thanks for the comments fellas. Spent tonight working on the tailgate jamb area, touching up some factory welds in preparation of installing the rear tail pan. Wasn't too long before Murphy's law reared its ugly head, and the lower part of the jamb showed some signs of rust lurking inside.
Cut open an access hole and cleaned out the inside as best I could for welding in some new metal..
For making a replacement, I have an "anvil" I made recently out of some scraps from under the welding table...
Here's the anvil end we'll use this evening as matched up to the original...
Fitting, trimming, and welding...
....and, as can be expected, one more to go... Until next time.
Robert
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04-03-2013 08:37 PM #51
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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Robert, excellent anvil! That is an awesome idea. I have been thinking of making a die so to speak to put in my press. I'm going to remove the bumpers on my 40 and I thought I'd be proactive and make some rectangle pieces and put a curve in the center to agg rigidity and help it contour the fender/tail pan. This way if later on I decide I want bumpers again, I can just unbolt the covers and bolt the bumpers back on. Anyhow, keep up the great work. It's nice to be able to watch a pro and pick up what ever a guy can.Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
Tire Sizes
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04-11-2013 08:57 PM #52
Ryan, some of those home-made tools are the most used..
Had a couple hours this evening so I decided to remove some mud daubers nest....
Used a combination of burr grinder, roloc sander, etc, to clean out the rust and scale as best I could. Once the car is up on the rotisserie again, the troublesome voids such as these will get a good flood of paint.
As this one needs a bit more flange turned in, the inside will need a bit more stretch to go with it. A suitable hammer with more heft will come in handy.
A couple fitments and adjustments, and this is ready for the welder...
and with it getting late, we'll cover the welding on the next update..Robert
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04-12-2013 03:13 PM #53
time and patients great workCharlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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04-12-2013 06:04 PM #54
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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Great work! You sure make it look easy!Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
Tire Sizes
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04-13-2013 08:19 PM #55
You should see the scrap pile!
Time to finish this part up....
All cleaned up....
Robert
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04-15-2013 08:32 PM #56
Starting on the tailpan, we were torn on using the pinch weld flanges. Some of the "subtle" mods we had done included removing the pinch weld flanges and leaded seam above and below the tail lights to get rid of a dirt trap/rust generator...
The pinch weld seam for the tail pan is also in the tires path, especially given the wider rear tires and mini-tubs it's now using.
So we decided to get rid of these as well, and butt weld the panel in. With the car still sitting on the frame, the standard offset snips had some interference issue with the frame rails...
Luckily my lovely bride had picked these up for me a couple years ago...
For a much better fit in such a tight area...
The tailpan was trimmed as well, leaving a bit extra to insure we had enough metal to span the gap...
Used the tipping tool to unfold the remainder of the flange and the door skin hammer to flatten it out...
After another test fit, the reproduction showed to be not that accurate, go figure....
After marking the new bend location, the bead roller was fitted with the tipping die to relocate the bend...
Now that the tipping die has left a crease indicator on the bottom side, a hammer and anvil is used to flatten out the incorrect crease...
For a much better fit.....
With tail gate test fitted....
Well that's about all for this go round, will start welding the tail pan in next time...Robert
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04-15-2013 08:37 PM #57
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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Holly cow! Great work. I would have probably junked 2 of those wrong pieces trying to put the correct bend/roll in it.Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
Tire Sizes
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04-19-2013 07:06 PM #58
The tail pan and rear opening were prepped a couple days ago by painting some epoxy on the surfaces that would be adjacent to each other after welding for some rust prevention. Tonight holes were added to the tail pan for plug welding, and the panel fitted up..
Here's the epoxy, I use a letter A size (.234) drill bit for my plug welds, and to clean the epoxy from the adjacent panel, I use a letter A that has been flattened and backfaced to form a cutter similar to an end mill. It cleans the paint well, and hardly touches the metal on the adjacent panel..
Butt welding the vertical seams...
Note the views from the back side show full penetration welds. Next, grinding the welds in prep for the next set of weld dots..
Robert
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04-19-2013 09:20 PM #59
....and finishing the vertical welds...
Robert
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05-07-2013 07:47 PM #60
Thought I'd spend some time this evening to see how I could clean up these corners....
Trimming out some of the excess...
Used the roll former die to make the radius....
Fitted, welded, and looking much better!
Robert
Uncle Bob is giving you sound, factual advice. My friend that sold a car at Gateway shared that the sales guy told him that they have car owners who decide they would like to sell, but also want a...
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