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Thread: Another Build Thread - My '32
          
   
   

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  1. #316
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
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    I will put either a steel or aluminum firewall between the passenger compartment and the trunk. In my '31 I used the hood off a mid-80s Ford pickup to seal off the trunk area. The pic below shows the hood skin welded in place and partially sealed; the side extensions are not yet in place in this pic, but they were put in shortly after.

    A 70 mph hit from any direction in one of these cars would probably mean "lights out"... permanently. These bodies are pretty stout, though. This past November a 'glass bodied 5-window did a double barrel-roll when the rear suspension broke as he was leaving a local cruise-in. The body got scratched and gouged pretty good and there were probably a few stress cracks, but it was still intact and the doors stayed shut.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  2. #317
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    The wreck I mentioned above... He was getting on it a little, but not really hard. Radical big-block Ford sounded sweet. When the rear suspension broke the car veered right and ran off the road. The car rolled over twice and ended up on its right side. The driver got a broken arm from flopping around inside - no seatbelts!

    Whoever built this car cut the ears off the Ford 8.8 rear end, repositioned them, and MIG welded them back on! Any dumbass who doesn't know you can't MIG weld cast iron with steel wire hasn't got any business building cars. Moral of the story - inspect what you're buying very closely and if you don't know what you're looking at, get experienced help.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  3. #318
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1946 Ford Coupe, 1962 Austin Healey 3000
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    So much for all the internet chatter about MIG welding on 8.8's. I've seen threads where every kind of filler wire imaginable was recommended. Usually followed by "Never had ANY problems".

    The most believable info I've found would seem to indicate that these center sections were cast from nodular iron. Better than regular cast iron, but still cast with all the associated welding issues.

    Just crazy that someone would rely on cast welds of any kind to support that much load. A thick steel plate sandwiched between the case and the rear cover would have been a better solution for mounting the ears. Many aftermarket link setups are made this way for GM and Ford open back rearends. A 9" Ford would have been the simplest fix.

    That kind of crap in the picture is scary. Makes you want to find something to hide behind every time someone in home built hot rod decides to "get on it" at a car show.
    Last edited by Hotrod46; 06-11-2019 at 08:17 PM.
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    Mike

    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc-
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  4. #319
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    I tried it too after all the mixed reports. I melted my bracket on the pumpkin just as pretty as could be with wire. I let it cool and gave it the smack it with a hammer test and it cracked right off. That's when I went to plan B instead.
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    Seth

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  5. #320
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    Hello Jim. Glad to know you're back at it. I've missed your posts. Carry on!
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

  6. #321
    johnboy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldrodder43 View Post
    Hello Jim. Glad to know you're back at it. I've missed your posts. Carry on!
    What he said.
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    johnboy
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  7. #322
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Hi guys. Glad to be back. Stay tuned, there's lots more to do before this one is finished...

    You can weld on the axle tubes - they're steel, but that center section is cast iron and should be left as cast.

    Cast iron CAN be welded quite successfully with high nickel rod made for that purpose and a stick welder. I have welded cracked heads, cracked blocks, the broken jaws of a vise, the broken foot of a pot-belly stove, and other cast iron pieces over the years, but my life wasn't riding on any of them. If this had ben my car I would be tempted to go find the guy that built it and punch him right in the face.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  8. #323
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    FWIW - I've had very good luck TIG welding cast with nickle filler rods. The TIG process seems to help keep cracking at bay. However, I have no proof of that other than my gut based on a little experience.

    I learned the TIG/nickle thing from my dad and he swore by it.
    Mike

    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc-
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  9. #324
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Yeah, the key in both cases (stick or TIG) is high nickel content. Also, both processes concentrate the heat in a small area. I have also seen cast iron that has been brazed. In that case, the whole part has to be heated to keep heat expansion from cracking the part somewhere else. Regardless of the process, I would not use a cast iron suspension or steering part that has been welded. Steel will usually give some pre-failure indication like bending or a crack in the paint or chrome. Cast iron (and cast aluminum) will often break without warning.
    Dave Severson likes this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  10. #325
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    With the tank set aside, I glued the supports in place with body filler. I discovered when I was teaching high school Auto Body Repair, next door to the wood shop, that body filler is a really strong glue... as long as you aren't concerned about appearance. I scuffed the floor area with my angle die grinder and a Roloc disc. Then I mixed some body filler, "buttered" the bottom of each support, and stuck them in place.

    I didn't have time to go any farther today, but next I will 'glass them in place. They are actually strong enough just as they are, but a layer of fiberglass will make them impervious to moisture. This is the same process I used when I "wooded" the body on my Track-T.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

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