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Thread: Another Build Thread - My '32
          
   
   

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  1. #361
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
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    Before I could install my torsion bars and arms and put the front end together, I drilled the front mounting bosses and installed grease fittings (1st pic below). Then the torsion bars and arms go in place, being careful that I index them the same from side to side. Actually, I put center punch marks on the arms and bosses before disassembly so I could easily get them back where they belong.

    Once the rear end is squared with the frame, it is simply a matter of measuring straight forward and setting the front axle parallel to the rear axle. I did this step with the front axle sitting on jack stands and centered, side to side, under the frame (2nd pic). At first measuring, the right side was 1/4 inch longer than the left. A few turns on the Heim joints here and there and now both sides are the same. The next step was to adjust and install the front panhard bar and the shackles (3rd pic). Finally, I was able to assemble the spindles, king pins, and caliper brackets and mount the front wheels. The frame is sitting on its own four wheels again (last pic).
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  2. #362
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    Now you're talking! Put'sa smile on my face!!

  3. #363
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    Great work, it is looking sweet!
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
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    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
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  4. #364
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Nothing picture-worthy, but a little progress. I'm getting the engine ready to drop back into the frame. After we were gone to Indiana for five days (got out just as the snow was beginning), I finally got back to work by replacing the ugly old oil pan with the pretty chrome one. One would think that would be a pretty easy step, but... This engine came from a 1985 Chevy wrecker. The truck has a 7 quart pan which is deeper than the passenger car version and uses a longer deeper sump on the oil pump. I didn't realize what I had until I went to bolt up the new pan! OK, so I removed the oil pump and spent about two hours modifying the sump. I also discovered whoever assembled this engine didn't put the little sleeve on the oil pump shaft extension, so I had to make a trip to the parts store to get one. I bolted the oil pump back in place and... the SOB pan still didn't fit, so I had to take it back off and shorten it just a little more. FINALLY it fit.

    Now the next hurdle. I got one of those new-fangled one piece pan gaskets. Supposed to make installing the gasket easier - it does. The only problem is it's thicker than the old 4-piece style, so it was a bitch getting some of the bolts started. After messing with it all for another hour I finally prevailed and my engine now has a pretty new chrome pan.

    I bolted on the starter and the motor mounts and lifted the engine off the engine stand. I set the engine on the floor and decided I've had enough fun for today. Tomorrow I will bolt the transmission and engine together and install them in the frame. If the weather cooperates I may roll it outside for a picture. Time will tell.
    Dave Severson, NTFDAY and 34_40 like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  5. #365
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Well, the weather didn't cooperate for a picture, but I didn't get as far as I planned anyway...

    I have a question for anyone who can answer it. I have assembled a bunch of cars over the years, but always dealt with small-blocks and, if I wasn't using a manual transmission, I generally used Turbo 350 and 400s. The torque converters, with some manipulation, always slipped into the trans deep enough that the trans then bolted up easily to the engine and the torque converter spun easily until It was pulled forward maybe 1/8 inch and was bolted to the flex plate. My question is, does a 700R-4 fit the same way? When I go to bolt the trans to the engine the center snout on the torque converter fits into the recess in the back of the crankshaft and, when I tighten the bell housing bolts to the block, the torque converter seems to be tight. Do I have something wrong here? The trans seems to go together with the block normally, but the TC won't spin easily.

    I'm trying to avoid having to pull the trans out later after I have the body on the chassis, so I want to address this issue now.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  6. #366
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    Definitely not right. All the 700's I've installed went in as easily as a TH350. The torque converter made the same 2 clunks going in and always had to be pulled back forward to mate up with the flex plate. From what I can gather from your post, your pump will be short lived if you go with it as is. Sorry, can't tell you what your specific issue is.

    I would start by measuring the diameter of the snout on the torque converter to see if it matches the counter bore in the crank. Also, check for a manual trans pilot bearing that may have been inadvertently left in.
    Last edited by Hotrod46; 11-17-2019 at 07:59 AM.
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    Mike

    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc-
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  7. #367
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    ALso check the convertor journal closely, see if the pump bearing has sufficient clearance ( or related damage/galling) from the convertor journal being force in. I'd say it's rare but I have seen the bearing cocked during assembly with the damage causing issues later.
    ted dehaan and Dave Severson like this.

  8. #368
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Thanks, guys. Tomorrow I will separate the two (engine and trans) and investigate. Hopefully it's just a matter of the lugs in the pump and the notches in the TC snout not lining up. Thanks for answering my questions. I'll let you all know.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  9. #369
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    Make sure the flywheel isn't on backwards-----------
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    By popular opinions-just a grumpy old man key board bully--But really, if you are going to ask for help on an internet site, at least answer questions about what you are asking about-----

  10. #370
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone for the input. I checked the flex plate again even though I had referenced a picture online before I bolted it on Saturday. It was on correctly. After verifying it was correct I turned my attention back to the torque converter. I've never had one fool me and frustrate me as much as this one. It felt like it was seated; I could swear it was slipping onto the pump lugs, but a straight-edge and ruler kept telling me it wasn't in near deep enough. I took it out 4 times to verify where the lugs were positioned. Then I would slip the converter back in and it would feel like it was catching the lugs, but no. Wiggle it a little, rotate it a bit, wiggle again. I can usually hit it on the second or third "wiggle and rotate", but this SOB required me to remove it and start over 4 times. FINALLY, it went in all the way! I guess the lugs and notches in this trans are a tighter fit than usual. Anyway, after screwing with it for about 3 hours it's together and mounted back in the frame.

    Maybe tomorrow I'll get the exhaust system back on and I'll get a picture. Next on the build list is brake lines...
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  11. #371
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    Hooray! LOL.. glad to hear it finally went together and is back where it needs to be. And with no collateral damage!

  12. #372
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    Yeah, nice to hear it was something fairly simple.
    Mike

    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc-
    I'm following my pass​ion

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