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Thread: Another Build Thread - My '32
          
   
   

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  1. #286
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
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    I went "junkyard stompin'" on Friday and must have looked at the bucket seats in 500 different cars. I finally selected a set from a 2004 Nissan Maxima. They are black leather in perfect condition. I originally wanted seats like those in a Chevy Volt - adjustable 8 ways manually. These are power seats; the driver seat is adjustable 8 ways, the passenger 4 way.

    Three of the four "feet" on these seats are relatively flat. The fourth one extends downward about 2 inches. To make these fit the flat floor of the '32 I needed to modify that fourth foot. First I set the seats (one at a time) on my table with that odd foot hanging over the edge. Then I used a yardstick and a paint marker to scribe where the foot needed to be cut off. A quick excising with my angle grinder cut-off wheel and a little touch-up with my Roloc grinder and I'm ready to weld on a 1/2 inch washer. Now the seats sit flat and I can put them in the car for trial fit. (I will remove the headrests later).
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  2. #287
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Nice score Jim
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  3. #288
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Good looking seats, looks like they'll be comfortable for cruizin' too!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

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  4. #289
    53 Chevy5's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 53 Chevy 3100
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    Nice seats,I also found out that it's good not to rule out the foreign cars for donor parts. It's funny that you mention a Chevy Volt, Is there a lot of them by you? I've never seen one.
    Dave Severson likes this.
    Seth

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  5. #290
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
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    Yes, Seth, there are several Volts here in my little town. My son has a 2012 and I had a 2013 until late October. I would still have it, but getting in and out of it was getting to be a challenge for my wife and me. The Volt is about the same size as a Chevy Cruze and it sits pretty low. My wife has serious back trouble and I have Arthritis in my left knee which makes getting up from a low position a problem for both of us sometimes, so we recently joined the movement to SUVs. We really liked driving the Volt. The acceleration was surprising and, when running only on the battery, it was absolutely silent. The best part was the infrequency of buying gas; the first year we had it we put gas in it 4 times (9.7 gallon tank) and drove it a little over 9,000 miles!
    Dave Severson likes this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  6. #291
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    OK, one of the things I said I would do is bob the rear frame rails and recontour them to fit closer to the body. The original frame is built to hold the gas tank under the rear edge of the body. It is protected by a rear spreader bar and a bumper mounted on spring steel brackets. All that looks pretty good on a full-fendered car. The tank fills that ugly gap between the bottom of the body and the frame rails and a stock '32 bumper and brackets is pretty substantial. I see a lot of fenderless '32s with no rear bumper, but still using the stock gas tank. It fills that ugly space and looks OK, but to me, that is just asking to be burned to death in a rear end collision. Anyway, that's just my opinion and I'm not badmouthing anyone else's choices, but my fuel cell is going in the trunk just like the one in my '31 coupe. If someone hits me in the rear hard enough to get to that tank, I'll be dead from the impact before the tank explodes...

    So, the tank is going in the trunk - what to do with those ugly frame rails hanging out there beyond the rear of the body? A lot of builders just lop them off somewhere under the body. That certainly helps the appearance, but I have this pretty brand new Bob Drake chrome spreader bar... Actually, I like the idea of having the spreader bar and frame rails under the back of the body in case some distracted asswipe, playing with his/her phone, bumps me at a stoplight, etc. (It's happened before.) It could save the fiberglass body from severe damage and at least keep it minimal enough to repair reasonably.

    First some measurements are necessary. The top of the frame rails are 3 7/8 inches below the body and they stick out 8 inches. The trunk floor is sitting on the frame rails 17 inches from the end. I have to do the cutting and reshaping behind this point, so I put a mark on the frame rails with a Sharpie (not shown). Next I measure from the frame rails, at the back edge of the body, to the floor and write that measurement down. With all the measurements taken, I hoist the rear of the body up off the frame and just for safety, I put some 4 x 4 blocks on the frame under the trunk floor near the rear axle. If my straps slip I won't get my hands or fingers crushed.
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    NTFDAY, 39Deluxe, Hotrod46 and 2 others like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  7. #292
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Using a combination square, I mark the frame rails 17 inches from the end (not shown) and cut them off with my 4 1/2 inch grinder with cut-off wheel.

    Next, on a piece of cardboard, I trace around one of the cut off pieces of frame. I use a straight edge (ruler) to extend the outline forward slightly and also extend the cut line. Measuring on my cardboard image, I find 8 inches from the cut end of the frame rail (toward the right in the picture) and make a mark (It says 8 1/2 on the cardboard, but I changed it after I wrote it on there). Using a small square I make a vertical line up from this point. 3 3/4 inches above that point on the cardboard I make another horizontal line parallel with the outline of the frame rail.

    Now I place the frame rail piece on the carboard with the tip end aligned to the new height and length location and the cut end aligned to the old cut location on the cardboard (see pic). I transfer the marks from the cut line on the cardboard to the frame rail, roll it over and use a straight edge to complete the line where I will trim it off at its new length and angle. I cut one frame piece and use it to mark the second one, then cut the second piece.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  8. #293
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    To finish this modification, I bolted the frame pieces to the spreader bar, propped the whole assembly in position, and used some Visegrip claw clamps to hold it. I took that height dimension that I wrote down earlier, added 3 3/4 inches, and measured from the floor up to the relocated frame tips. Once everything measured correctly, I welded the frame tips in place. Finally, I let the body back down on the frame and removed the straps.

    The spreader bar now fits up nicely under the rear edge of the body and isn't hanging out in the atmosphere with no purpose. When the welds are ground smooth and everything is painted, this modification will almost disappear..
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  9. #294
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
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    Nice work. That will look very nice and a lot of people will not even notice it I'd guess.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
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  10. #295
    Hotrod46's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1946 Ford Coupe, 1962 Austin Healey 3000
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    That looks good. Can't argue with not wanting to burn up!
    Mike

    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc-
    I'm following my pass​ion

  11. #296
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Ford 3W Coupe, 383 sbc
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    I don't have a good photo, but I did something similar with my frame. But I chose to curve the frame up and hide the crossbar behind the rear of the body. I figured if I ever got a mild hit, it would prevent it from caving way into the trunk. The fiberglass could always be reconstructed by a shop or a replacement panel could be ordered from Outlaw who manufactured the body.


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

  12. #297
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    When I lift the body off to do all the finish welding, I plan to weld in another crossmember of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 square tubing right behind this one so it's not visible from the rear. I will mount my license plate bracket and tailpipe hangers from it similar to what you did. I really like the looks of your tailpipe hangers; did you fabricate those or were they commercially made?
    stovens likes this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  13. #298
    rumrumm's Avatar
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    I had to fabricate the aluminum ones connected to the exhaust pipe. There is a manufacturer that makes them but not for 3 inch exhaust pipes, so I made a pair from 1/4 inch aluminum plate. My license plate bracket and the exhaust hangers that are welded to the hidden crossbar are pieces that I fabricated out of 1/8 inch steel.
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    Last edited by rumrumm; 12-19-2018 at 07:28 AM.
    39Deluxe and 40FordDeluxe like this.


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

  14. #299
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    Somehow I thought you were building a roadster. Love the 3w. Also am interested in your treatment of the bobbed frame with spreader bar tucked in. Thanks for sharing this build.

  15. #300
    figure8's Avatar
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    Wow I sure hope you can use the electric power steering. I have been wondering about that.

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