Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree465Likes

Thread: Another Build Thread - My '32
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 18 of 23 FirstFirst ... 8 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 LastLast
Results 256 to 270 of 336
  1. #256
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,596

    While I had the front of the chassis up on jack stands I had the tires I wanted installed on the front wheels. I went from 215-70s down to 195-60s. When I set the front end on the floor with the new tires I had about 2 inches of ground clearance under the pan and pipes, so I readjusted the torsion bars a couple of splines - problem solved. While I was sweeping out the shop, I took a couple of pics of the chassis so far.
    Attached Images
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  2. #257
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    6,476
    Blog Entries
    1

    Nice work on the exhaust! That stance is killer!
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    Tire Sizes

  3. #258
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,596

    Thanks! To me, stance and proportion are the two most important things that control the looks and "attitude" of a hot rod. If I've got that right already I must be on the right track.

    I finally got the hangers on the exhaust pipes, so I can move on to something else. One of the last pieces of fabrication I need to do (until I get the body) is the headlight/front shock mounts. I begin with a piece of 2" x 3" x .120" tubing. After making a pattern similar to the shape of the headlight/shock stanchions on my '31 coupe, I transfer the design to the tubing and cut out two of them.

    Next I clamp the pieces side-by-side and grind the final contour. I do this on each side so I end up with two pieces that are identical mirror images of each other. Next I cut and drill two pieces of 3/16" flat steel for the tops. These are 2" square with a 1/2" hole in the center. I weld these onto the stanchions and grind the welds smooth.

    Now I cut and drill two small crescent shaped pieces from 1/4" steel plate. These will be welded to the front axle and become the lower shock mounts. I still have two more small pieces to fabricate for the top mount, but I ran out of time today. Stay tuned...
    Attached Images
    Mike P, NTFDAY, Hotrod46 and 2 others like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  4. #259
    Driver50x's Avatar
    Driver50x is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Saint Petersburg, Florida
    Posts
    286

    Very nice Jim!

    Out of curiosity, what did you cut those with? A plasma cutter?
    Steve

  5. #260
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,596

    Hi Steve. No, I used my 4 1/2 inch grinders. I have one with the 4 1/2 inch cut-off wheel and one with a grinding wheel. (The reason I have one of each is so I don't have to keep changing the wheels back and forth.) I rough-cut the shape with the cut-off wheel and finish-grind to shape with the grinding wheel. I discovered about a year ago that it's much faster this way than cutting with a torch or plasma cutter and then spending hours grinding the ragged edges. I buy the wheels in 10-packs at Harbor Freight (one of the grinders came from there also).
    NTFDAY, Hotrod46, stovens and 2 others like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  6. #261
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,505

    Looking good Jim, must be excited to get the body soon!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  7. #262
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    6,476
    Blog Entries
    1

    Very nice work! I have been using the death wheels a lot the last few years. I need to get another grinder so I can have a flap wheel/grinding disc on one and a death wheel on the other. It does get old switching over. I think the biggest reason I started using these over my plasma cutter most times is because it's less stuff to drag out. But it is hard to cut round corners etc with the cut off discs.
    cffisher and Driver50x like this.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    Tire Sizes

  8. #263
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,596

    Thanks, Steve. Yes, I'm looking forward to finally getting the body so I can finish the fabrication work. There are some things ya just can't do without the body (steering column, rear frame horn modifications, mounting the fuel cell, etc, etc.). Supposed to go pick it up September 24th or 25th.

    Death wheels? Ryan, are you using your cutoff wheels without the scatter guard on your grinder? Actually, I think it was you who put me onto these things. Using them has probably cut my fabrication time by at least 20 - 25%. Agreed on the round corners and curved contours; just get 'em close and resort to the grinder. It's still less time consuming than dragging out the torch or plasma cutter and then grinding.., and grinding.., and grinding... For my final finish work on edges I use a little angle die-grinder with 3" Roloc 60 grit disc.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  9. #264
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,596

    OK, getting back to the shock/headlight mounts... The last pieces of the puzzle are the brackets for the top of the shocks. The shocks I'm using are '76 Ford Pinto front shocks. I've used these on my '31 Coupe, my son's '31 Sedan, and on my Track-T (that I just sold). They aren't available in chrome, but they are short and have a built in rubber snubber. These are gas-filled Monroes. They have a tube through the bottom eye and a stud top. In the pic below, the top shock is as it comes out of the box; the bottom one has the tube trimmed for mounting as I use them.

    The second pic is the brackets for the stud mount. They are made from 1/4 inch plate cut to 1 3/4 inch wide (to fit inside the stanchions) and 3 1/2 inches long. The hole is 5/8 inch.

    The first step to installing everything is welding the little crescent shaped brackets (see earlier post) to the front axle. For now I just welded them on the front side. When I blow the car apart for finishing I will weld the back side and grind the front side smooth.
    Attached Images
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  10. #265
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,596

    With the axle brackets welded in place, I bolted the bottoms of the shocks to them and mocked up the stanchions and brackets. I jacked the front of the frame up 1 1/2 inches with the wheels on the floor so I could locate the top brackets inside the stanchions. This allows the shocks to be compressed slightly when everything is done. I used a measuring tape to locate the stanchions on the frame and held them in place with my welding magnets. I used a Sharpie to mark their location on the frame.

    With everything in place, I was able to mark the bracket location inside the stanchion. Then I took everything apart so I could weld the top shock bracket inside the stanchion. Unfortunately, there are no pictures of the markings because I couldn't get the camera in a position to show it.

    After welding the top brackets, I put the stanchions back in place according to the marks made earlier. I used an angle finder to check them both directions to make sure they are straight and level. When everything checked out, I tack-welded one corner of each. Then I re-checked all the measurements and put welds on all four corners of each stanchion. I will weld these solid when I take everything apart for finishing. For now I can call it done.
    Attached Images
    Mike P, NTFDAY, stovens and 1 others like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  11. #266
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,505

    nicely done you make it look simple!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  12. #267
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,596

    OK, I've been incommunicado for a while because I frankly didn't have anything worth telling. I've been gathering some parts, but not really doing much on the Deuce. My body got delayed (3 times!) which has taught me a valuable lesson, but no use whining about it. While searching for goodies for the Deuce I ran across an exceptional deal on a set of lakester headers for my Model A. I bought them and took advantage of this down time to install them. I'll post up a new avatar soon as I no longer have the track roadster and the coupe looks decidedly different with the new polished stainless headers.

    I finally did get something done on the Deuce just the last couple of days. I am using a '57 Ford 9" rear end that I got for hauling it away. It had been lying outdoors, upside down, for years and was missing the brake drums. You can see it and all the fabrication on it in previous posts. The real quandary came in trying to find brake drums - they are non-existent. I looked all over the internet, at my local NAPA store, Autozone, Advance, O'Reilley's, and all the nearby salvage yard - Zero, nada, nope, nothing. What I did find was that brand new drums are readily available for 1957 - 59 Mercury and Edsel. Should be the same, right? So I ordered a pair. Wrong! As it turns out Mercury and Edsel drums ae 1/2 inch wider. Slapped one of those suckers on my rear axle and it hit the backing plate. Crap! It lacked a half inch of going on all the way. Hmmmmm…. OK, just get some Mercury or Edsel backing plates, right? Those are just as scarce as the '57 Ford drums... No problem, just a little inconvenience; I've never seen this done before, but I will make a pair of offset backing plates out of the ones I have.

    I began by using my 4 1/2 inch grinder with a cut-off wheel to slice out the center of the backing plate. Next, I cut a piece of 1/8 x 1/2 inch flat steel (got at ACE Hardware) to the appropriate length (17 3/8") and started tack welding it on edge to the backing plate, bending it into place and tacking as I went. After it was shaped and tacked all the way around, I welded it solid. After a little "corrective hammer work", I tacked the center piece back in place and then welded it solid.
    Attached Images
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  13. #268
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,596

    After finish welding and some new spray paint, I reassembled everything and the drums fit fine. Problem solved. If you compare the first pic in the previous post with the second one here, you can see the difference.
    Attached Images
    Mike P, NTFDAY, 34_40 and 2 others like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  14. #269
    Mike P's Avatar
    Mike P is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SW Arizona
    Car Year, Make, Model: 57 Plymouth, 37 Dodge PU, 83 El Camino
    Posts
    3,351

    Very nice solution Jim.

    I know exactly what you mean about the availability of those brake drums. I'm running a 57-9 Ford wagon 9" in my El Camino. Fortunately it came with a good pair of drums and I have a pair of turnable ones sitting on the shelf....with luck I'm good for as long as I own it.

    I always figured if push come to shove I could probably adapt it to disc, but never really looked it to it.



    .
    Dave Severson likes this.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  15. #270
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    6,476
    Blog Entries
    1

    I just sold my 58 Ford 9" that was in my 40. I heard brake parts were getting hard to get for them. I guess they weren't just rumors. Nice fix you did there.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    Tire Sizes

Reply To Thread
Page 18 of 23 FirstFirst ... 8 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink