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Thread: Another Build Thread - My '32
          
   
   

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  1. #436
    shine's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 47 inderweed
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    this is pretty good stuff. i use lizardskin but this is good for inside doors and firewalls .

    http://www.insulation4less.com/Insul...l-72-Inch.aspx
    Hotrod46 and 40FordDeluxe like this.

  2. #437
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    I finished the battery cable installation Sunday afternoon and moved on to mounting the seats. I am using the power seats from a 2004 Nissan Maxima. I explained last year how the outside back leg on each seat was modified to sit on the flat floor. With a battery to manipulate the seats, I adjusted them as necessary, then located and drilled the holes in the floor. I didn't bolt them down yet, though.

    Monday I made a trip to the local Home Depot to pick up a piece of 1/4 inch underlayment plywood to make the panel that separates the cab from the trunk. No big revelations there; it was just a matter of measure, cut, and fit. Before I screwed it in place I put the Kilmat on the floor in that area. After I screwed the panel in place I continued the Kilmat past the seat mount holes. I will Kilmat the remainder of the floor later, but I have other work to do in the front area first. Finally, I removed the headrests and put the seats in place then put the bolts in the holes. Before I put nuts on the bottom, however, I have a couple of things to do underneath. I'll explain that later when I do it.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  3. #438
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Today started out OK. I determined that the brake pedal was crowding the space where I needed to put the gas pedal and I needed to move it. The lever part of the pedal needed to stay put, but it was made so the pedal pad bolted onto a tab about an inch to the right of the lever. I could have cut it off, repositioned it, and welded it back together, but I decided it would be easier to just make a new tab and weld it to the existing one. Unfortunately, I neglected to take a picture of it! I found a heavy-duty nut with the same threads (1/2-13) as the tab and I just welded it solidly in place. The result is the pedal is an inch to the left and about 1/4 inch higher than its original location. Yes, it clears the steering column enough that I can easily step on it, even in work boots.

    Next I positioned the gas pedal, marked the bolt holes, and drilled the firewall. I used stainless steel bolts, washers, and acorn nuts to bolt the gas pedal in place. (Pic below)

    Now the trouble began. I thought it might be advantageous at this point to get the A/C evaporator mounted under the dash so I could figure out the location of some other things. I got the evap out of the box for the first time and discovered... it won't fit! There is no position that will work; it is just simply too big. The bad news is I bought it last year before I took the body off the frame, so the odds of sending it back are slim to none... and Slim has already left town. So, another learning experience - I should have trial fit this thing as soon as I got it. DUH! Well, tomorrow I will do some more in-depth measuring and some more research online. It looks like Speedway has an under-dash unit from Vintage Air that might be the answer. Time will tell.

    I said I would report my progress here, warts and all. This is a big wart! Learn from my mistakes, folks.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  4. #439
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    I was busy elsewhere today, so I didn't get to work on the '32. The good news is "the Fed" delivered a big package from Rootlieb.

    I was given a one-piece fiberglass hood back when I picked up the body. I don't know who made it, but it was a warped, twisted piece of $#!+ that doesn't come close to fitting the contour of the grille shell. I put a clamp across the front of it months ago and left it sit in the heat for weeks, but it made no difference. Last week I ordered a steel repro hood from Rootlieb.

    After everything else was done today, I took a few minutes to see how my new hood fit. Yes, it does, beautifully. I still have to build the radiator-to-firewall struts and install the latches, so I used some 2-inch masking tape to hold it in place for now. It's nice to have a quality piece to work with.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  5. #440
    53 Chevy5's Avatar
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    I think I would like a steel hood better anyway.
    .
    40FordDeluxe likes this.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  6. #441
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    Jim, very nice work! I got the same style ball socket for my 40's steering column lower mount. I'm not looking forward to installing it. I'm betting the bondo will work fine. A lot of top custom interior builders mold and glue a lot of things with bondo. I was really surprised the first few times I saw it used that way. The AC issue stinks. I have the same kind of luck. That hood looks great and the car is looking so sweet!

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    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
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    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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  7. #442
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    I started mounting the battery tray last Friday, but didn't get it finished. Then I had family obligations over the weekend, so I didn't have any "shop time" then, either. Anyway, I already made the shelf for it to sit on (see previous posts), I just had to mount the tray in a manner that would hold the battery in case of some catastrophe. I began by cutting a short piece of 2-inch angle iron, drilling a hole and welding a nut under it. Next, I drilled a hole in each end of the battery tray and bolted the angle iron bracket to one end. I used a 3/4-inch spade bit to drill a hole in the wooden shelf to make clearance for the nut and bolt in the battery tray. I put the tray in place and welded the angle iron bracket to the steel structure in the body. At the other end I simply drilled a hole through the floor and bolted the tray down with a large fender washer underneath. All I had left was the tie-down, so I finished that today. The one that came with the "universal stainless steel battery tray" was made to fit an unknown battery of enormous size. I poked around in my scraps and found a piece of chrome plated 3/4 inch square tubing, cut it to length and drilled a couple of holes and the last piece is done.
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    rspears, 40FordDeluxe and 36 sedan like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  8. #443
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    Next on my long list of "to do" is mounting the hood. I live in Florida where it rains frequently and abundantly. Running with no hood is just asking to be stranded with a wet ignition system and a louvered hood isn't much better. I could have gotten a one-piece hood top, plain or louvered, but I opted for a stock two-piece hood top. Why? I have a stock hood top on my Model-A coupe and I simply like the convenience. If I want to service the air filter, fuel filter or distributor I can just open the appropriate side of the hood and do it. I don't have to deal with Dzus fasteners or bolts and I don't have to hunt for a safe place to put the detached hood while I'm working on the car. Yes, I'm aware there are some really nice latch-and-hinge mechanisms available for a one-piece hood, but those things cost more than the hood itself! Remember, I'm an old retired school teacher on a budget here...

    On my Model-A I made struts that attach the grille shell to the firewall on each side. The hood latches down to them with toolbox latches. The center hinge strip is bolted to the firewall and grille shell, so even if both sides of the hood come unlatched it won't blow off. I am copying that design here.

    The struts are made from 1/2-inch square tubing. With the grille shell held at the correct location (with the help of some 2-inch masking tape) I measure and cut the struts to length. Then I used some 1/8 x 1 flat steel to make the end brackets. The front bolts to the grille shell where it also bolts to the radiator. The back bolts to the firewall with 1/4-20 Nut-serts I installed in the appropriate locations. I didn't put any dimensions here because it's a bunch of "cut-and-try engineering". I did use my measuring tape to make both sides the same. After bolting the struts in place, I laid the hood on temporarily to make sure the struts are hidden.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  9. #444
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    When I went into the shop today I noticed a couple of telltale orange handprints on my new hood... RUST! OK, I know what nice new metal does in this climate, so it was no surprise. The areas where I had handled the new hood with my bare hands had attracted a bit of moisture and it was letting me know. A wad of paper towel and my trusty jug of Ospho took care of the situation. Most of the rust wiped right off; the stuff that didn't turned dark immediately. The clean steel turned dull which means the problem was averted. It won't rust now - I love that stuff.

    My next step of hood installation is the brackets that hold the center bar of the hood in place. On my Model-A the hood has a rod in the center. I was able to make brackets for it using some flat stock and a couple of scraps of brake line tubing. This '32 is a completely different arrangement. The center strip is a stainless steel channel with curled edges. The hood halves have a rolled bead on the edge that interlocks with the curled edges of the center strip. To anchor it to the car I needed flat brackets with a T shape attached to the top (the pictures make sense of what I said).

    I began with a scrap of 1/8 x 3/4 flat stock. It was still a bit wide, so I ground down one edge until it fit in the channel easily (about 5/8 inch finished width). The front piece fits in about 3/4 inch, the rear fits in about 1 inch. Next I needed some kind of spacer to hold the top tab up off the bracket; I dug around and found a piece of 3/16 keyway stock. I cut the pieces and welded the ends of the tab and key stock to the bracket material. The problem was I couldn't weld down in the slots and I knew that the little tack-weld on each end wasn't going to hold for long, hmmmm, what to do? I needed it to stick together with almost no buildup. AHA!! I braze it! I haven't brazed anything in a few years and almost forgot how.., but I finally remembered; ya have to heat the base metal until it's almost orange hot for the brass to stick. When that was all done I removed any buildup of brass from the pieces with a bevvy of grinders and files. I drilled the appropriate holes and cut the brackets to length. Finally, I bent the brackets to fit the crown of the grille shell and firewall lips and gave them a coat of spray-can primer to keep the rust away.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  10. #445
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    Jim, you're much more energetic than me! I ordered mine from Speedway! https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Searc...hood+retainers
    36 sedan likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  11. #446
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    Keep plugging away at this thing Roger, when you get it done I'd like to drive down south and pay you a visit. Maybe even before you're done, you could possibly use a extra hand for an afternoon lol
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  12. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5 View Post
    Keep plugging away at this thing Roger, when you get it done I'd like to drive down south and pay you a visit. Maybe even before you're done, you could possibly use a extra hand for an afternoon lol
    Seth, this one is Jim's coupe with quality build features compared to mine! I'm sure he'd welcome a visit but it'll be a longer drive for you to Titusville, Florida! On a plus side, you might catch the launch from the Cape!
    53 Chevy5 and 36 sedan like this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  13. #448
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    Lol, wrong thread, my eyes are getting worse looking at this small phone. Well I guess I'm coming down Jim, I love Florida!
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    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  14. #449
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    DARN!!! Duh! I really feel dumb. It never occurred to me to look for these stupid things online. I could have saved a day's work! Now I have to decide whether to use these or get those pretty polished stainless ones...

    Seth, you might want to wait for this Covid 19 crap to pass, but you're welcome here. The hot rod scene here in Florida is pretty active year-round and, yes, you might see a launch. There is something going up about every 10 - 12 days.
    36 sedan and Driver50x like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  15. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Robinson View Post
    DARN!!! Duh! I really feel dumb. It never occurred to me to look for these stupid things online. I could have saved a day's work! Now I have to decide whether to use these or get those pretty polished stainless ones...
    LOL! Jim, you had the advantage of knowing what they looked like! I had to find pictures, then found it too easy to just click "Add To Cart!" I like the ones you made!
    36 sedan likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

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