Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree541Likes

Thread: Another Build Thread - My '32
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 24 of 26 FirstFirst ... 14 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 LastLast
Results 346 to 360 of 387
  1. #346
    53 Chevy5's Avatar
    53 Chevy5 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Doon, Ia
    Car Year, Make, Model: 53 Chevy 3100
    Posts
    2,120

    Picking a color sucks but it looks like you nailed it, it looks beautiful! My next one will be red just because my first car was red. That kind of thing sticks with you.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  2. #347
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,628

    34-40 - Yes. here is the link to The Coating Store: [url]https://www.thecoatingstore.com

    The folks there are really courteous on the phone, too. I ordered my paint online, but I had a couple of questions first. I called and they were helpful. Also, they accept Paypal if you prefer that over giving credit card numbers online. I live in central Florida and my first order arrived 3 days after they confirmed shipping.

    My local Axalta store priced the Razzleberry paint at $1148.00 for a gallon of paint plus the activator. The price did not include sealer, clearcoat, clearcoat activator, or any reducer. I got the Apple Red candy from The Coating Store for $584.96 including 2 quarts of sealer, a gallon of silver base, a gallon of candy red, a gallon of glamour clear and all the needed reducers and activators (catalyst).

    If it arrives tomorrow I may get my frame painted this weekend and start reassembly. If so, I'll show it here.
    34_40 and 40FordDeluxe like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  3. #348
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,628

    Yay!! My paint came today (Thursday). Now, if the weather will just cooperate...
    40FordDeluxe likes this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  4. #349
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    13,224

    Quote Originally Posted by J. Robinson View Post
    34-40 - Yes. here is the link to The Coating Store: [url]https://www.thecoatingstore.com

    The folks there are really courteous on the phone, too. I ordered my paint online, but I had a couple of questions first. I called and they were helpful. Also, they accept Paypal if you prefer that over giving credit card numbers online. I live in central Florida and my first order arrived 3 days after they confirmed shipping.

    My local Axalta store priced the Razzleberry paint at $1148.00 for a gallon of paint plus the activator. The price did not include sealer, clearcoat, clearcoat activator, or any reducer. I got the Apple Red candy from The Coating Store for $584.96 including 2 quarts of sealer, a gallon of silver base, a gallon of candy red, a gallon of glamour clear and all the needed reducers and activators (catalyst).

    If it arrives tomorrow I may get my frame painted this weekend and start reassembly. If so, I'll show it here.
    Thank You Jim. I've begun helping my friend Mark working on his 53 F-100. We're at the sanding stage.... and sanding.. and sanding.. well you know that story. So I'm "urging" him to make some decisions now, or sooner than later. 8-)

  5. #350
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,628

    Painted the engine today. The light wasn't good when I shot the pic so it doesn't show, but it's the same red pearl that's on the rear end and other parts. This pearl "Scarlet Fever" is a darker red. It should have a nice contrast to the Apple Candy that I'm putting on the frame and body. Now that it's painted I can install the aluminum intake and water pump, the chrome pan, valve covers, and all the other pretty stuff.
    Attached Images
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  6. #351
    53 Chevy5's Avatar
    53 Chevy5 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Doon, Ia
    Car Year, Make, Model: 53 Chevy 3100
    Posts
    2,120

    Looks real nice, I see you don't trust Big Blocks on engine stands either, I do the same thing.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  7. #352
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,628

    Yeah, Seth, that engine stand is supposed to be rated for 1,000 pounds, but I'm skeptical. It just sags too much without that support. Until now I've always had small blocks and it was OK. Oh well, it won't be on there for long.

    Here is a pic of my paint from The Coating Store. Everything you see here was $584.96. From left to right: 2 quarts of primer-sealer (silver); 2 pints of activator; 2 pints of reducer; 1 gallon of silver basecoat; 1 gallon of Apple Red EyeKandy; 3 quarts of activator; 1 gallon of clear; 1 gallon of reducer; sticks, strainers, and mixing cups. This same stuff from my local Axalta store would have been over $1200. I grew up using Dupont and PPG materials, but they have just gone berserk on their pricing in the last few years.

    I'll let you all know how this stuff sprays and flows. I did my first all-over paint job on my '56 Chevy back in February of 1966. It was '66 Corvette Nassau Blue and a gallon of acrylic lacquer was $18.00. Thinner was $1.95 a gallon...
    Attached Images
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  8. #353
    Mike P's Avatar
    Mike P is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SW Arizona
    Car Year, Make, Model: 57 Plymouth, 37 Dodge PU, 83 El Camino
    Posts
    3,365

    “……I did my first all-over paint job on my '56 Chevy back in February of 1966. It was '66 Corvette Nassau Blue and a gallon of acrylic lacquer was $18.00. Thinner was $1.95 a gallon...”

    I remember those days Jim. I started my painting in the early 70s. Walk in to the paint store get a gallon of acrylic enamel, a quart of the second color (I did a lot of 2 tones), reducer, hardener, masking tape and paper and change back from a $100 bill ……..and they threw in the strainers and stir sticks!

    When I painted the 57 Plymouth 13 years ago I groused about paying almost $400 a gallon for the paint. I had some touchup paint mixed to take care of a couple small rock chips last year. When I gave the counter guy the paint code he kind of chuckled and said they had stopped carrying that brand a couple of years ago because of the price and asked if I was curious about what it cost now……….over $1200 a gallon!!!!! And then mixed me a small bottle of the color in enamel



    .
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  9. #354
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    6,550
    Blog Entries
    1

    Jim, that looks so nice! I will be checking them out. My next build I plan to paint everything with a gun instead of poof can. I have used a lot of hot rod flatz brand paint but even their prices have went up and I'm certain they just re brand the stuff. I remember paying the paint bill for the corvette when we did it...... I could have purchased 2 new turbos for it for what the paint and clear cost. The first painter let the paint freeze so I got the pleasure of buying paint again but I went with a cheaper line that time. I was so disgusted. Luckily the 2nd guy just charged me cost on the supplies.

    I'm looking forward to seeing your frame!
    .
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  10. #355
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,628

    I painted my frame today and I am impressed with the color depth. I started painting candy colors back when Candy Apple and Kandy Apple were name brands and all the candy paints were lacquer. When House of Kolor came along, their colors were virtually unmatched in depth. Well, I can tell you this stuff is right there with them. The pics below don't do the color justice. The light in my shop isn't conducive to photography. I did shoot one pic of the front frame horn where the sun was shining in the door, but even that doesn't tell the story accurately. This stuff is gorgeous! It looks a foot deep.

    OK, I've sung its praises, now let me impart a couple of things I have learned:
    1) The Coating Store offers primer-sealer in a multitude of colors. The idea is to get a sealer that's close to the color you're using so it enhances the hiding properties of the final coats. I used their silver sealer because I am using a silver basecoat under the candy red. When I shot the first coat of sealer on the frame, I didn't have my spray gun adjusted properly and I put a sag in the sealer in one spot. No big deal, the second coat will fix it, right?.. Well, not exactly. When I applied the second coat it covered the sag, but after the sealer was fully dried I noticed it was crazed where that sag was. Hmmm... So now I know, when waiting for the first coat of sealer to flash, make sure any sags or heavy spots are dry (dull). If you leave any area wet, the next coat may craze. Luckily, this spot is buried under the paint, barely noticeable, and where it will be hidden by the rear wheel.
    2) The silver basecoat was a dream to spray and went on very evenly.
    3) This paint is Polyurethane, not Acrylic Urethane. Polyurethane is known for its toughness, but it has some idiosyncrasies that are different than Acrylic Urethane. When you are applying the candy color coats, make sure you allow enough time to do the color AND the clear. This is what's called a wet-on-wet system. The clear has to be applied immediately after the color. If you wait more than 30 minutes to start clear coating, you will have to wait overnight and wet-sand the color before applying the clear! Follow the included instructions explicitly.

    So far I am very pleased.
    Attached Images
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  11. #356
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,628

    Ryan - You can do so much more with a spray gun than rattle cans. The big advantage is the durability of the available paints. You don't have to spend a fortune on spray guns, either. I am using the "purple guns" from Harbor Freight. I have three of them. I use one for primers, sealers, and color coats and the second one is used only for clear. The third one is still in the box as a standby in case one of the others malfunctions. I have a pressure regulator on each gun. These are the same guns I used to paint my track roadster a few years ago and I have also painted at least a half dozen other cars and bikes since. They just keep plugging along...
    Attached Images
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  12. #357
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    6,550
    Blog Entries
    1

    Jim, I have a couple of the HF guns too. I also have a nicer SATA. I mainly do spray bomb because it is faster, sometimes cheaper. I realize you don't get the same durability as gun shot paint. The next project for myself will be the 40 and I want it to look nice for many years. That's why I decided I will shoot all of it with a gun. It may a challenge since our winters aren't conducive for painting. Haha
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  13. #358
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,628

    When I was painting for a local body shop a few years ago, they had a pair of SATA guns; they're really nice - durable and consistent. If I was painting every day I'd have one, but for my occasional dabbling, the HF guns are OK.

    Where is Prairie City? I'm originally from Indiana - when it was Winter there I couldn't do much painting unless I had access to a heated garage (mine wasn't). Here in Florida, Winter is the best time to paint. The humidity (rain) is occasionally a problem in Summer because it can cause some paints to "blush", but rarely delays me more than a day or so.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  14. #359
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    6,550
    Blog Entries
    1

    Quote Originally Posted by J. Robinson View Post
    When I was painting for a local body shop a few years ago, they had a pair of SATA guns; they're really nice - durable and consistent. If I was painting every day I'd have one, but for my occasional dabbling, the HF guns are OK.

    Where is Prairie City? I'm originally from Indiana - when it was Winter there I couldn't do much painting unless I had access to a heated garage (mine wasn't). Here in Florida, Winter is the best time to paint. The humidity (rain) is occasionally a problem in Summer because it can cause some paints to "blush", but rarely delays me more than a day or so.
    Jim, it's in Iowa. I face the same problems you spoke of. My garage is heated but I need to make a temporary booth set up so I can paint this winter. I have a friend that has a bigger space where I can paint this winter so that should help out. The humidity here is an issue in the spring and summer too. I've been burned by that a few times.

    .
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  15. #360
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,628

    I began reassembly today. I put the truck arms on the rear axle, rolled it under the frame, and with the frame still suspended from overhead, I lowered it down and bolted the arms into the frame. Next, I installed the rear panhard bar. I put the 3-inch blocks I originally used to build the rear suspension between the frame and rear axle housing so that it is level at ride height (1st pic below).

    While there is nothing else in the way, this is the perfect time to align the rear axle to the frame. A lot of people drag out jack stands and string and magnets and tape, etc., but all that crap is unnecessary if you do it now. With the rear end in place and as close to correct as you can get it with "calibrated eyeball", it's time to do some measuring. First, center the frame on the rear end by measuring from the frame rails to the backing plates (2nd pic) on both sides. Adjust the panhard bar until the two sides are equal within 1/16 inch (or less if possible). Next, measure from equal points on both ends of the rear axle to the center of the front crossmember (3rd pic). A good place to hook your measuring tape is on the wheel cylinder bleeders (if they're centered). In this case the wheel cylinders aren't installed yet, so I used the holes where they go. At the front I used the center hole in the front crossmember for my measuring spot. On other cars in the past, when there was no hole, I measured the crossmember to find the center and put a center punch mark in it. Measure both sides the same way and adjust as necessary until the two sides are equal within 1/16 inch (less if possible). Using this method assures that the car will go down the road straight, not "dog tracking", because the rear axle is perpendicular to the centerline of the car. The rear end is done; you can move on to the front next.
    Attached Images
    40FordDeluxe likes this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

Reply To Thread
Page 24 of 26 FirstFirst ... 14 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink