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Thread: Another Build Thread - My '32
          
   
   

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  1. #421
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
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    I had some trepidation about this engine and am glad it seems OK. Here's the story: This engine came out of a 1985 Chevy wrecker at the shop where I used to work. It was not the original engine; it had been rebuilt by a commercial engine company (I can't remember the name, but it's similar to Jasper Engines). At some point it burned a valve and started "chuffing". The shop owners pulled this engine out and replaced it with a junkyard engine. They pulled the top end apart and sent the heads out to have the valves done. The valves and seats were ground, two burnt valves replaced, and springs shimmed. I was under the impression that the rings and bearings were replaced, too, but that is not the case; it was strictly a "top end job". Before the engine could be put back in the wrecker, the hydraulics had a problem and the shop owner decided to just get a newer wrecker - a Ford diesel. This engine sat in the back room of the shop for a couple of years and was finally bought by a friend of mine. Then it sat in his garage for a good while. All together it sat for nearly ten years! That's why I was concerned about its condition.

    I started to tackle the rear brakes today. I jacked up the rear end and removed the right rear wheel and drum. I bolted in the new wheel cylinder and spent a couple of hours running the right rear brake line over to the junction on the flex hose. With that finally done and in place I thought I might assemble the brake shoes and all their attending pieces. I opened the small parts package and discovered there are no link pins (the little forked pins that connect the wheel cylinders to the shoes). I went to the local parts store - no luck. I came back home and searched Ebay and Amazon - no luck there either. Nobody lists link pins for a 1957 Ford. If you've been following this thread you know I had the same problem trying to find brake drums a while back. if I hadn't already spent a bundle on parts and invested a bunch of time, I would convert this rear end to disc brakes! Anyway, I bought some nondescript AC Delco link pins on Amazon and hope I can make them work. I'll let you all know...
    Dave Severson likes this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  2. #422
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    The link pins I ordered showed up Saturday, so I began assembly of the rear brakes. I was hopeful that the "generic" link pins would work... and they did! HOORAY! It's been a good while since I've assembled a drum brake (2005?!), so it fought me a little, but a quick peek at YouTube set aside any curiosities. After the first side, the second one was a snap.

    Sunday I fabricated the license plate bracket. I made it from a piece of 1/8 x 3 flat stock. After cutting the shape and drilling it, I bent the end tabs at a slight angle so when bolted to the added rear crossmember the plate displays vertically. The tag light will bolt to the raised section in the center when I get it. (The plate in the picture is not the one for this car; it's just there for the picture.)

    Today (Monday) a friend stopped by and helped me bleed the brakes. We discovered one small leak at the rear junction block, but it was solved by tightening the fitting. The brakes are now finished and working.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  3. #423
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    The tag light arrived today, so I drilled and tapped the appropriate holes and mounted it to the license plate bracket. I put the bracket back in place and it still looks the same... just as intended. The tag light is hidden behind the spreader bar.
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    Dave Severson and 36 sedan like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  4. #424
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    OK, I took a two and a half week break to remodel a bathroom. My wife has been wanting that done for a long time, so now, thanks to a lot of help from a friend, it's finished and I'm back on the Deuce.

    Today I sanded and prepped the firewall for paint, but I couldn't proceed any further because of rain. With painting on hold, I moved to putting the webbing on the frame and running a tap through the body bolt-holes. The weather forecast calls for sunny days after Monday, so hopefully I'll get paint on the firewall Tuesday. When that's done and dry I can put the body back on the frame, maybe Wednesday or Thursday... FINALLY!!
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  5. #425
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    Looking very Nice Jim. The red frame looks fantastic!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  6. #426
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    The weather forecast changed (better) for Monday, so I jumped on the opportunity and painted the firewall. Today (Tuesday) I put the body back on the frame. HOORAY! Everything went pretty well. When I tightened the body bolts down both doors dropped slightly when opened. I loosened all the bolts, did some shimming on the body mounts at the rear of the doors, tightened everything down again and got everything dialed in so the doors open and close with almost no effort. So far, so good...
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  7. #427
    v8nutz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    That is looking like a car all of a sudden, coming together nicely!
    stovens and 40FordDeluxe like this.

  8. #428
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    What he said... NICE!

  9. #429
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe
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    Looking really good, Jim!
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  10. #430
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Thank you all.

    I took the body off the frame last August and it seems like it's been forever. Every time I have thought it was almost time to put it back on I would think of something else I needed to do first. Then I have had multiple interruptions, too. FINALLY maybe I can make some good progress. Today (Wednesday) I carved the hole in the floor for the brake pedal and mounted the steering column. I'm waiting on another piece before I connect the shaft, so I'll work on other things - mounting the seats, mounting and plumbing the fuel cell, begin some of the wiring - it's a long list...
    34_40 and 40FordDeluxe like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  11. #431
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1946 Ford Coupe, 1962 Austin Healey 3000
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    Yes, it's looking very nice indeed! That's going to be a fun car, especially with the big block. You might need slicks on the rear!
    stovens and 40FordDeluxe like this.
    Mike

    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc-
    I'm following my pass​ion

  12. #432
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    I neglected to take pictures of the steering column/shaft while i was working on it, so I was unable to post anything. Suffice it to say that the S.O.B. fought me every way possible. Let me digress... I had the steering column installed and the connecting shaft in place before i ever pulled the body off the frame. It was close, but everything fit and worked nicely. Now, when I put the body back on the frame, I wanted to "finish" the hole where the column comes through the firewall, so I bought one of these nifty looking ball and socket escutcheons for it. And that's where the problems started... These things aren't intended for as steep of an angle as is presented by a '32 Ford! I had to modify it for clearance. I had the darn thing on and off the column at least 20 times. That wouldn't be so bad, but each time the column had to be pulled back through the firewall, parts ground and filed, and the column re-inserted through the firewall for another trial fit. Installing the escutcheon should be a 2 or 3 hour job, tops, but I screwed with it for 3 days! I called it every name I could think of multiple times and threatened to do it bodily harm. Didn't matter - the stupid thing wasn't afraid of me at all - it just kept on frustrating me. I finally prevailed, though, and it turned out pretty nice.

    It's not visible in the pictures, but the double-D shaft clears the header collector by less than 1/16th inch. As an old friend used to say - "A fraction of an inch is as good as a mile as long as it clears." I also got the brake pedal installed and its location is nearly perfect.
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    40FordDeluxe and 36 sedan like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  13. #433
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Since the last posting I mounted the fuel cell. If you've read this thread from the beginning you know I made the mounts and straps for it some time ago before I took the body off the frame. Before I put the cell in place this time I put the Kilmat sound and heat insulation on the floor under it. I also put some rubber strips on the mounts and under the straps. The rubber straps are actually bicycle inner tubes; I have several punctured ones from my Electrathon racing.

    With the fuel cell in place and bolted down, the next piece is the shelf for the battery. Using the pattern from the fuel cell mounts and some scrap 1/2 inch plywood, I made a pair of supports and a 8 1/2 x 12 shelf that the battery tray or box will sit on. I discovered many years ago that ordinary body filler is actually a very good multi-purpose adhesive as long as appearance isn't an issue. Think about it - it's made to stick to metal and plastic (fiberglass); well, it sticks very securely to wood also! I mixed up a bit of it and stuck the supports to the shelf. In about 15 minutes it was solid, so I gave it a coat of spray-can primer to help seal it. Then I mixed another bit of body filler and stuck the shelf permanently in place next to the fuel cell.

    The next thing on the list was mounting the grille shell to the radiator. I have a new hood coming from Rootlieb, so I'll need the shell in place to build the mounts when it arrives. It was just a matter of clamping it in position and drilling the appropriate holes in the tabs on the radiator. Four 1/4-20 bolts and nylock nuts hold it in place. I stuck the headlight buckets in place just to get them off the workbench and out of the way for now. Last thing today, I drilled the holes in the trunk floor for the battery cable and fuel line to pass through (no pic of that).
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  14. #434
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    Jim, how well does the Kilmat work as heat insulation? I'm nearing the point where I will be needing to do the same thing. I've never used any of these types of insulation before and trying to figure out what to get. My car was pretty hot in the footwell area and I want to get that down as much as I can.

    BTW - As to using the Bondo as glue. When I built my house, the guy that installed the fake marble tub surround used Bondo to glue the corner shelves in. I wondered if it would hold up since it seemed strange to me, but it has been holding for over 15 years. Must work pretty good.
    Last edited by Hotrod46; 07-09-2020 at 05:31 AM.
    40FordDeluxe likes this.
    Mike

    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc-
    I'm following my pass​ion

  15. #435
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Actually, Mike, I don't know how well it works. A friend of mine recommended the Kilmat because he has used it and likes it. Roger Spears used some stuff called EZ Cool in his '33 and says it's good. It has the foil on both sides of closed-cell foam. Maybe some other folks on here can give you better guidance than me. You are probably going to need something before I get on the road and able to say good or bad on this stuff.

    Body filler is good for filling countersunk screw holes in wood, too. Sink the screws, spackle the holes with body filler, sand and paint. The screws will never back out of the holes!
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

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