I used two upright 4x4 fir posts bolted into my rafters and resting on the floor on either side of the body, with one steel 4x4 on top of them with a chain hoist and straps. Worked well.
I used two upright 4x4 fir posts bolted into my rafters and resting on the floor on either side of the body, with one steel 4x4 on top of them with a chain hoist and straps. Worked well.
Here`s a quick lift
This cherry picker is more like the article I saw except they had tied a strap to each end of the 4x4 and lifted it from above. I'm not sure how much my body weighs without doors, fenders, decklid, etc but I'm sure it's within range of the picker's capabilities. The trick would be finding the right place to lift it that would balance the body. Also with this method I couldn't just roll the chassis out from under the body. I'd have to roll the cherry picker instead.Quote:
Originally Posted by 406Rich
Mike, your setup looks good, too. My firewall/floorboard is all welded up so I couldn't run boards all the way through like you did.
Rich, I haven't quite pictured the description of how you lifted yours. Any pics of it?
Thanks for the help guys!
Everything looks just like it does in a GTO. What a great fit in your '37! If you don't mind the big side bolster look I highly reccommend GTO front seats (they look a little more full than the rear seats). It wouldn't be unreasonable to say the seats are my favorite part of my car, but I personally don't like the look for my '35 and I know you were talking about front seats with integrated belts.
I went backwards this weekend. I was planning to move the car from my parents lake house closer to home now that summer is over, but the rear wheels on there are too small to clear the brakes (bought cheap rollers, but they ended up not being 5x4.75) so I had to take the rear brakes off. Then I was trying to push the grommet onto the booster for the check valve from the access panel in the floor above and I (actually my dad...I'll gladly not take the blame for this one :rolleyes:) pushed it through into the booster. No luck fishing for it so the booster had to come out...first three nuts no problem, but the fourth one was much more of a problem :o. the brace for the pedal assembly blocks it everyway I could get to it. So I ended up putting a wrench straight onto the nut and turning a mm at a time using an ice pick and screwdriver on the closed end to turn it. I have no idea how I got that nut on to begin with, but I did with nothing changed since. It took two hours to remove the booster, but its out. I also found that one of the studs on the booster is stripped so I have to clean that up and get everything back in. At least I have a day off tomorrow to catch up :)
Hey, thanks, Robert. Yes, the GTO front seats are really nice but I think they're a little big for both our cars plus they have "GTO" written on them...lol! The Beemer convertible seats I have in mind are a bit smaller but still similar design to the back seat. The built in seatbelt/harness will save me the hassle of fabricating a plate somewhere near the door post to hold the belt plus it won't obstruct access to the back seat. I don't know why I have all this concern for the backseat when it'll probably hardly ever get used! :whacked::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
Sorry about the booster woes. That kinda sucks! I'm sure it's nice to get the car closer to home so you can work on it. Look forward to seeing more pics as you progress.
You don't need to run boards! Anyplace that has structure from floor to a higher / highest point should be capable of carrying the body load. Add an eyebolt or "D" ring or suitable hoisting point and your good to go! If you can add lift points and spread the load it'll work even better. That's why I used the 2x4's Just wanted to spread the load as much as possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
I couldn't bring myself to ever raise a body by the doors / roof. Just a "personal demon" ,:LOL:
The way 406 Rich did his truck body is pretty cool but for me, I'd build more structure to get as close the "A" & "B" posts, again, just a "personal demon"....
I agree. Someone posted on here a year or so ago that they lifted their car thru the door openings and it buckled the roof! :eek::eek: Another guy with a 37 sedan put a beam through the rear side window openings close to the B pillar because it was stronger there. He had no problems. The idea still scares me a little though. That would really suck to bend the roof!:CRY::CRY:Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
When my dad & I first built this car years ago, we raised the front high enough to slide a 2x4 under the front mounting points and then the same on the rear. The 2x4's extended about 2ft out from each side of the car. we jacked it up one end at a time and placed stacks of concrete blocks under the ends of the 2x4's then rolled the chassis out from under it. Maybe I'll just repeat that process....
See that, great minds think alike! :LOL: I watched a roof buckle by lifting in the center of the doors. I just couldn't do mine that way!Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
And your Dad's idea is basically the same as mine! Span the vehicle with cribbing and hoist away. I just worked overhead, He / You guys worked from below or under the wood cribbing.:3dSMILE:
Except our "wood cribbing" went side to side where yours was end to end on the car. It seemed to work fine with that body structure. I wouldn't have dared to crawl inside the body without extra support in the middle though.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Actually, if you look close, you'll notice I did both! At the back I spanned across and picked up the bracing from floor to body almost "C" pillar! At the front I came under the firewall and tied together into the "a" pillars.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
You can easily do the same!
:rolleyes: If I remember right that person forgot two bolts in the front holding the body on and lifted the frame a couple inches before noticing. It pushed the drip rails up a bit, but at least the doors were open. I don't remember who it was though ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
yea the front GTO seats probably wouldn't allow for a console, they are a bit tall too and of course they do have 'GTO' stitched in. Very comfortable though...much better than the 4th gen camaro seats I am using, but they work, look nice and they are manual so no wiring!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
Oh, man, sorry for the painful memory!!! I forgot who it was but I knew I had read it here. But that "guy" whoever he was, did a great service reminding us all to really be careful how we lift the bodies off our cars...;)
I'm not so sure if there would have been a problem if he had unbolted the body all the way, but you can't ever be too careful. I know he lifted from the bottom after that though :eek:. Just make sure you don't forget the two bolts in the front two corners nicely hidden by the brackets at the bottom of the firewall. I think that guy was just thinking the body was rusted on a bit and needed a second to pull off the frame..
Since we are on the subject of seats - this is what mine now looks like with the Barrett Bad A$$ Bomber's in mine. They used my extra material so the color matches. I'll be lowering them at least another inch, two if possible but after driving the car a bit, they are fairly decent as far as "set" or should I say, I can stand after a drive:D. This lowering will be a winter job as the risers got complicated so I could use the existing bolt/holes in the floor pan. Those holes are reinforced with an internal framing for that pan, so not a good idea to move elsewhere.
This riser is ~3.75-4" high:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSC_0068.jpg
Comparison between the two seats:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSC_0063.jpg
Ready to go tho the adjuster rod still needs to be shortened:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSC_0073.jpg
Sorry about the photos, but I did a preview before submitting
Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Those look awesome, Dave!!! Why are you sorry about the photos?
Thanks RandyQuote:
Originally Posted by randyr
The photos should have shown up in 'living color' instead of a click-on it link. That's what happens when you do a preview here before submitting and have pictures from Photobucket.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
I didn't know that. I've never used Photobucket to load pics on this site. Just load direct from my file. What if you go back to edit, re-add the photo links and don't preview before you save.....would that change it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
I did try that. I would have to start a new post as an edit really doesn't actually change the internet identification information. I believe that this is the only Forum Providing company that is used where I belong, vBulletin by Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd, that has that symptom. Not really a problem, just inconvenient for the readers.
Then of course, it might just be a moon phase on the East Coast
Congrat's IC2, looks like we've all made some progress! They look very, very nice!
Thanks Mike -Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
I think they look even better in the car then the Glides (which I have to figure out what to do with now - next car ....... nahhhh)
AH! More swap meet "stuff"? :LOL: I really like the look of them, not as "overstuffed" after seeing them side by side!:toocool:Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
They COULD be yours if you really wanted them and there were enough Franklins for temptation:LOL::LOL: They'll fit a '33/'34 with only 4 bolts per seatQuote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Well, they ARE the right color!!! :):LOL::whacked:Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Sorry Randy no pics, I`m assuming your rafters run parallel with your garage length, just visualize two verticle posts, bolted to the upper rafters on either side of the body, an area where you can center your car under, with a 4x4 rectangular steel tube sitting on top of the verticle fir posts, block and tackle in the middle with two load straps running from front to back looped thru the clevis on the block and tackle, the load will center itself when lifting, roll the chassis out. The posts will carry the load not your rafters, all the rafters will do is keep it centered.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
I'm not 100% sure if I'll use these armrests or not but I ripped all the previous 80's style upholstery off my side panels and fitted the GTO armrest on just to see if I want to develop the idea further......I'm soooo far away from actually putting the interior in this thing but these are the planning stages, right? :)
So here's a new question for you guys: I bought one of the gas cap kits as shown in the pics. I've seen installations where a rectangular hole is cut in the fender and the whole unit is welded in. Since the curvature doesn't exactly match my fender, I thought it might be easier to fit the lid to the existing hole in my fender, then remove the sheetmetal from the top of the box and weld the rest of the unit under my fender. If I do that, what's the best way to trim out the whole in my fender so it's the perfect size?
That weld in "patch" curvature in the photo looks like it has w-a-a-a-y too much curvature for that fender, Randy. It almost looks like you will have to disassemble the assembly, including cutting the cover loose, straightening it some and use the innards and relegate the the outer skin to the spare parts pile - about what you said:D. It looks like everything is spot welded together so you can pull it apart fairly easily - but - do you also have tire clearance with that extra metal hanging inside. Hagan used to make an angled filler pipe and a lesser curved version that probably would have fit better. I haven't heard much about them lately tho their web site is still active(http://www.haganauto.com/category_s/41.htm). Why go to all that work if you can get a better fitting version and Ebay........
Tire clearance is not an issue for this unit. I've had it too long to send it back so I'll probably make it work. The method you (and I ;)) described, while challenging, is probably what I'll do. Cutting off the outer skin will be easy. Trimming the box to fit the inside curve of the fender shouldn't be to hard either but I need to know the best way to trim the hole in my fender to fit that lid.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Seems I almost forgot to post pics to satify someone! **):rolleyes::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
And a few more, just because! And someone asked for a couple more of that ramp si I added it in here.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Nice!!! The pic gods are happy now!!:LOL: I was afraid I might have to pull the the old "Y" and use it on you again! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Question: is this the final tire size or are you going larger in the back & smaller in the front?
Cool car and looks like a great setting too!!
Mike was that a old Ballroom wow hard wood floors in a shop is rare . I like the stone fire place in back ground too . But I do like the drive on you have .
Also the car is looking great .
That's what I was afraid of Randeee! :eek:**)Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Tires are an "evolutionary" thing... I figure the back ones won't last to long and then I want to step up a size or two....
Thanks for the compliments! :)
Yes, it was a pavillion, we used to rent it out for dances, receptions, company picnics, etc.... We got tired of the liability insurance and the constant code changes and drunk customers etc, etc. etc.. so we closed it down. It sat vacant for awhile and then I talked the family into letting me turn it into a shop. When I first took it over the floors still shined with all the years of being polished.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Thanks Bobby!
That makes for one cool shop,,,!:toocool:
Yeah, I love that shop!! I'd like to move it to the beach and covert it to living space! That would be awesome!!! :D:D
Thanks for all the compliments! Yeah, I wouldn't mind living on the beach either! :3dSMILE:Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
So, as Dave & I discussed in a previous post above, I separated the skin from the fuel door assembly then reformed it to fit the curve of my fender. I was going to just trim out the existing hole in my fender and attach the box to the underside but my hole enlarging method didn't turn out as good as I'd hoped..:CRY: so I cut out a section and inserted the hole from the kit. Here are some pics of how it turned out.....I will also be removing that old bondo and rework that part of the fender a bit...
WOW, That looks NICE Randy!
Thanks, Mike! I think it should look pretty good when it's all done.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Now, for the bad news......My 66 F100 got whacked last night in front of my place. A guy fell asleep at 11:45pm and hit it pretty hard starting at the left rear corner all the way to the front bumper. Even bent the front rim and blew out the tire. Insurance co is supposed to tow it away today an assess the damage. They'll probably want to total it....:CRY: That's my 2nd 60's white Ford to get hit in the last 4 years.......maybe I should change colors.....