Yeah, those are the pics I remember seeing months ago when I was trying to figure out what to do with my clutch pedal.
Well guys tore down the 351 for the 37 . Clean bearings must have been freshened up at some time . A little rats nest in one piston . Cylinders are clean but there is a ridge . Tomorrow I will bring home some snap gauges and measure them . Then I did a quick mock of the GT 40 P heads and valve covers I just picked up .
http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/43...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/30...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/41...500x500Q85.jpg
Hey Bobby, unlike myself, you're making some headway! You might want to double check those valve covers to see if they're tall enough for roller rockers. If they are for stock 351 heads, they might not work.
I've been a little sidetracked for the last month because I gave in to the temptation to buy myself a different daily driver. It's a 66 Ford F100 Custom Cab shortbed with the "economical" NOT! 352V8/auto. It's a great little truck and will be fun to cruise around in. I've busy upgrading to disc brakes & power steering. Will be back on the 37 soon, I hope.
Now, to hijack my own thread, here's a couple of pics of the F100 :
Randy I am going to do a mild build . Been searching on what cam I can run with the stock rockers and just changing springs . I have this one comp cam 456 lift with a 110" LS But I do want a Cammy sound but I really haven't found out the limits on the GT40P rockers yet . One site sbf as you know they say every thing needs to be done a lot of cash for that .
Guy I know here is selling a 63 that is clean only down fall someone at one time put a 194 chevy 6 in it . Is asking 2k but I know it could get for maybe 1500 . Shipping isnt to bad right now either .
http://www.chromeczars.com/board/showthread.php?t=2797
Yeah, Bobby, I saw your other thread regarding your engine build. There are definitely cheaper ways to do things than the sbftech guys recommend that will still work well for a long time and give you all the performance you need. I'm not really skilled in that area at all but I'm sure some guys who know what they're talking about will tell you what you need to know.
As for the F100, I already have one...I don't need another one! LOL! I don't like the bed on that '63 anyway. If I had a 61-63 F100 I'd want the shortbed unibody. I think those are cool. Also, what was the guy thinking when he put the Chevy 6 banger in it????
Hope to get back on my 37 soon!! In the meantime, I'm enjoying reading about yours.
Haven't heard from Dave in a while. You ok, Dave?? Did you guy get the interior in your car yet? You have some cruising to do this summer!
And what about you, Mike? What's up with you my friend? How's the ticker working?
Later guys.
Randy
Hi Randy! I'm still here and drooling over your pickup! NICE!!:D:3dSMILE::LOL:
I did meet up with Dave in York, PA to see hot rods and conduct some business but it was raining/pouring so we cut the trip short. I'll let him explain the interior story.
Ticker is still running and I'm feeling fine Thank You Very Much! :)
I'm just about ready to start doing some work on mine. I haven't touched it since the "health issues"..:eek: That was 8 months ago!:eek: I have been buying a bunch of small parts and pieces and just bought another grille, this'll be the third! It better fit better than the others!
Thanks for thinking of me and looking forward to watching your build progress!
I'm just about ready to start doing some work on mine. I haven't touched it since the "health issues".. That was 8 months ago! I have been buying a bunch of small parts and pieces and just bought another grille, this'll be the third! It better fit better than the others!
Getting some stuff for a car is as much fun as building . But man I am ready my self to get one in color .
So True!! Almost like Christmas! :LOL::3dSMILE::LOL: I don't usually spend so much at Christmas time tho! :whacked::D:HMMM:
Although all the "downtime" has allowed me to browse and want even more parts or pieces than when I started. I've really been wanting multiple carburation and have seen some good pieces but, I keep telling myself to just finish it first and then we can change it later. Let's drive it first! :D
Randy - I'm here, I'm here.
I've been 'lurking' on this now infamous thread more then contributing. You and Bobby have your thing going with '37's and since I don't have one now, am just enjoying your trials and tribulations.
As Mike said, we met up at York a week and a half ago - it was raining so hard - much harder after he gave up and left for home, that I was checking for the address of an ark - then Saturday, beautiful. I didn't take a single picture of any cars including the many, many '37's.
The interior of my car saga - since I have everything but the seats, I'm doing my own installation. My upholsterer - oh well...... The seats are done tho I do have to pick them up, probably late next week, then I'll install them, then whatever is left, not much - he'll have to do later.
I see that you've been spending more time on your new DD then the '37:HMMM: Nice truck from the photos - that vintage in my rusty belt area has been crushed, shredded, then sent to Japan to make new rivers like Honda's:CRY:
Later**)
I've been 'lurking' on this now infamous thread more then contributing. You and Bobby have your thing going with '37's and since I don't have one now, am just enjoying your trials and tribulations.
Dave you still have a lot of input and ideas . No matter the car the only thing different is the shape of the body .
Randy's work on his pedals is a perfect conversion for this model . Sure does beat the work of trying to hang pedals and mount a master cylinder .
My GT 40 P heads just came back from machine shop today getting the mounting holes drilled for clearance for the 1/2 bolts on the 351 . I heard a rumor that the Mustang GT shortie headers will work on the GT 40 P heads .
Having a set of shorties I went to garage and set the heads on the engine and couple bolted the headers to the heads . This is going to work well and going in the 37 I believe it will be easier then trying it in the 31 .
The #2 and #4 cylinder are the only cylinders that will require a dimple in the headers . The passenger side will have no clearance issues at all . This will be saving me money on headers and the mini starter required by some headers .
Some pics of headers on the P heads .
http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/42...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/45...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/43...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/45...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/15...500x500Q85.jpg
Bobby, while it's not really a good header (look where the bolts squash the runner at the flange) and if they fit, good luck!! I tried them, the similar SVT version and one other set (Patriots, I believe) before I ended up with the Sanderson FF1 which Randy also found he needed as well. I bought mine uncoated so I could clean up some of the weld slag and extraneous runner material where they join at the collector as well as the flange and it ended up taking several hours with my die grinder. Take a look back at one of the first pages of this very long thread and you'll see the "conversation" Randy and I had a couple of years plus ago and some of his pain with some mediocre Sanderson quality (also, recall the title of the thread :LOL::LOL:)
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...HClearance.jpg
Another thing to consider also, Bobby, is whether the angle & location of the outlet on the driver's side header will give you problems with routing the exhaust around the clutch/brake/MC. It may also give you problems with the steering column but you will probably have to fit the engine into the car to be sure about these things. Figuring out the exhaust is going to be the next thing I tackle on mine, I think. The driver's side will definitely be challenging with dual exhaust.
Dave by good I mean they made the 5.0 Mustangs run real well . They may not be full performance but I am building a mild engine . I seen that on the tubes and been figuring a fix for their correction to reshape . Would really rather spend that cash somewhere else if I can . But If It comes down to really needing the Sanderson headers I will get them . Then I will just copy Randy's exhaust :D .
Randy I will be watching the exhaust install to see where and what you have to do . I have been looking into the front wheel drive columns lately they are short and with the short shaft inside the firewall I have plenty of choices on where it will exit out . This should help with the exhaust exit a lot . This will give me a straight column with about 8 inches of play at the firewall to exit . Like you say everything will have to be mocked up to see what works and what mods will need to be done .
Bobby - the 5.0 headers strangled the Mustang (personal experience with my '86 GT, now long gone). Take a lurk at a Mustang forum. Now add them to a 5.8/351. Obviously, they will work and of course your prerogative to use, but there are better choices that even Ford (and Summit) offers in their SVT catalog. It's a lot easier to build an exhaust system with the front sheet metal off and the engine exposed then together. Now that you have the GT40P heads, this would be the crowning touch as they will flow much better then the ho-hummers you had.
Dave I guess in the long run you are right . I have been talking to people on best cam options still using the pedestal mounts and max lift . One guy said stay about the ,480 lift with 1.6 rockers and get up to a @50 - 230 duration to get the cam sound I am looking for with a 112' LS .
The best camshaft that I ran (out of several tried, an Edelbrock Performer, a Perf. RPM as well as a crap Comp Cams dog) in my last 351W was a Lunati which had a split LS 108/112 if I recall plus about a .500 lift. Not sure of the part number - but will see if I can find it later today. With a SB Ford you do have to keep the lift with some pistons, even if dished, at approximately .500 unless you have eyebrows cut into them too. A.480 lift wont hack it at all. This Lunati was a great 1500-5000 RPM cam and had a wicked sounding idle (isn't that what "really" counts:D). I used Comp Cams 1.6 roller rockers on that engine vs. the Crane 1.7 on my current 302.
Dave that's what I am looking for someone who has built the mild or street engine 351 W . I do want to stay with the stock rockers as of this time haven't priced a machine shop converting over to rollers . But from what I have learned so far that the lift is at a certain point to max it out . That is not what I want just to be close to it .
Bobby - this is what I'm using; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6564-A50/
These are pedestal mount and don't require any machining. I have Cranes (identical, since the Ford's were made by Crane), but since they have gone the way of the gooney bird, who knows.
Proform also has a set as well - probably made by whoever makes the Ford version but bucks cheaper: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66878/
As long as you don't rev "way up" I don't see a problem.
You'll probably need springs, locks and retainers as well to be on the safe side - (and I just happen to have a set of new stockers as well, but you should use better ones, tailored to your camshaft though). MIne, again, Crane, and again, identical specs as the Ford versions. Dang, but any level of performance engine get expensive - and mine is medium!!!
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...lerrockers.jpg
Dave been doing some shopping and I think I have a direction mapped out Thanks to You . You are right on even a mild build there is a few dollars invested .
I got a chance and worked a bit on the coupe. Spent some hours and actually got the grille mounted and it fits and looks great! FINALLY!!:3dSMILE:
The mounts actually line up and makes it a pleasure to work on the car again. It only took 3 grilles! I tried to "be economical" but after fighting with the first 2 I bit the bullet and bought a drakes grille and it makes all the difference in the world!
I guess it's the old saying you get what you pay for! Cheapin' out bought me nothing but frustration and lost time! I was even going to need a custom hood with trying to use the last grille. Oh well, live and learn!
Thanks for letting me vent!:LOL:
34 summer is here a little more time with the door open . Though never experiencing to many aftermarket parts I sure do read a bit on them . Funny how no one out there can get a standard for good parts . Glad you found one that will plumb up for you .
34 I lucked out and had someone here the weekend who finished all the sheet metal work on the 31 . Charged $15 a hour labor and put in 19 hours in 2 days . Made it easy for me since my metal skills are not at that level .
Hey Mike, congrats on the grille! You should post some pics so we can see it. I may have to bite the bullet on my grille too. I've had one of those Argentina aftermarket ones since my dad & I built the car eons ago but I've never liked how it fits. I'm going to try a little more tweaking before I give up though...LOL!
Bobby, you really scored to get your metal work done at that rate! Good for you! I hope to get started on mine again soon. I've been sidetracked with a lot of work plus I did a power steering/discbrake upgrade on my F100 so it can be my daily driver. One can never have too many projects, right??:eek::eek::whacked:
Randy yes I did but a bad misfortune for sure . Hope he gets back to work soon at where he was .
But I did pull the covers on the 37 and showed him what I need . So I am sure if I get going quick I can get him back out for help . His skill saves K's of money and helps you get ready for filler and at minimum depth . At most it will be a 1/16 maybe a 1/8 in the deeper spots .
Now if I could get a estimate from you on doing my pedals oh wow I will be moving quick on the 37 > . I like mechanics and hate filler even though I do it . What dimension did you make the lever for your cable . Also does it go to the floor or did you install a stop .
LOL! You won't be moving very quick if you wait on me to do your pedals! Look at the rate I'm moving on my own! LOL!
What "lever" do you mean? Are you talking about the bracket where I attach the cable to the frame? Also, I didn't install a stop for the pedal, not yet anyway. I don't know that I'll need one. I will probably have a spring on the clutch arm coming out of the bell housing. It seems like that will cause the cable to push the clutch pedal back into position but I haven't fully tested it yet. In my first test fittings, the clutch seemed to engage & release pretty good without a spring.
I know what you mean about body filler but they're making some really good stuff these days that we should have to worry about it ever cracking or falling out if prepped properly. Hopefully, your friend can get back to work soon. In the meantime, it's cool that you can help each other out.
The lever on the pedal assembly where the cable attaches . The length would determine the amount of cable it pulls out . Is it 1 inch or 2 inch long is what I mean. Also have you measured the length it needs to fully disengage the clutch yet . This is where we would need at least 2 people I think to watch the movement and measure it . Guess what I am asking is kinda like the ratio of the brake pedal . You have some great tech going here . .
The old rod assembly's used to travel about 2 or 3 inches if I remember correctly has been along time since I seen one move . Maybe a service manual would have the info .
Yes, it was a nice summer day! I had doors open on both ends of the shop so I had a nice breeze blowing through!
There is supposedly a "standard" and that's what makes Drakes so expensive, they are an official Ford "Authorized Parts Producer", or some such. Everything I've bought from them has a label saying approved by Ford. I guess it costs them a good deal of money to get the Ford approval too!
At least you know that all the details are right when you buy from them.
Using the "others" grilles I thought I was going to need a custom hood because I couldn't get the spacing right. With this new grille I had plenty of adjustment and should have no problem getting a hood to fit well.
Randy, you're going to spoil yourself with that new daily driver and all it's "modern conveiniences". :LOL::LOL:
Now I can't wait for next weekend, more new parts are awaiting!:):LOL::3dSMILE:
Ok, Bobby, I'll try to answer your question via pics and extraneous verbage...LOL! This may take two posts since we're limited to 5 pics per post.
First, the pedals I bought from Pete & Jakes already had the "levers" attached as seen in pic #1. The pedal on the left(brake) has a 3.5" small shaft welded to it to extend thru the x-member and attach to the master cylinder. The "lever" attached to it is 3/4" from the center of the small shaft to the center of the hole as seen in pic #2. (I wish I knew how to write on the pics but I don't...rats!)
The pedal on the right in pic#1 (clutch) has a simple "lever" on it that is 2" from the center of the shaft to center of the hole as seen in pic #3. So, both of these pedals have the same amount of leverage (2") even though the brake pedal has the additional smaller shaft that extends through the x-member. Does that make sense so far? Both pedals also have an 11" rise from the center of the pivot shaft to the top of the pedal. An 11" rise and a 2" lever makes 5.5 to 1 ratio, right?
To use my existing mounting bracket, I had to cut a slotted hole for the brake pedal lever shaft to go through, see pic #4. This was a trial & error process for me since I don't have any hi-tech equipment for such things. In pic #5 you can see how the parts are supposed to fit together on the 7/8" shaft. The shaft is 6 1/8" long with a 2" spacer (black). There is a set screw in the bracket to hold the shaft in place.
I thought since I already had the pedal/booster assembly for an automatic trans, I could save some money by modifying it to accomodate the clutch pedal too. In retrospect, it might have been easier to get the whole assembly from Pete & Jakes, then modify it so the clutch & brake pedals would straddle the x-member instead of their design which has both the clutch & brake pedal on the inside of the x-member. I had some issues because the shaft sizes on my unit weren't the same as theirs and a bunch of crap like that. Also to further confuse you, in the P&J design, these pedals were reversed. I'm using their clutch pedal from my brake pedal and vice verse for the other. If you look at the pic of their design in some previous post, it may make sense why I did that. If not, I'll explain further.
More in the next post....
Here's a couple of additional pics of the assemble put together outside the car, see pic #1 & 2
Now for the clutch cable I don't have very good pics of the bracket I made but I welded the mounting piece to a flat bar then bolted it inside the x-member in case I needed to take it out or move it as some point. I clamped it in place to test it before I drilled the holes, however you can see I ended up with an extra hole or two anyway....LOL! I bought the modified shorter cable from Pete & Jakes which is a little pricey compared to aftermarket ones for Mustangs but I thought the shorter one might be less hassle in the long run. I don't have a pic of it but it loops around to the clutch arm and seems to work effortlessly. There is a lot of adjustment on both ends of the cable so there is a little forgiveness if you don't get it exactly right the first time.
Pics #3 & 4 show this part. I promised you better pics of this bracket but I still have the engine in the car and can't get a good camera angle. I'll be pulling back out before long and can snap some pics then.
Hope this helps. Obviously, if you come up with a better way, let us all know! LOL!
Randy this is very descriptive and helps a lot No confusion yet :3dSMILE: Actually you presented it out great and I thank you . Don't think I could modify what you did but if a slight change will work for me you will know for sure .
Now lets hope we don't crash and loose what you have done . My printer is down and I cant save it as of now .
Bobby - why not save in My Documents. When you tell the printer to do its' thing, it will USUALLY ask you if you want to save it instead. Or copy and paste to a Word or whatever document writer you have then save it to My Documents.
Randy - nice write up. Too bad mine's not a '35 - '40:whacked:
Thanks for info Dave I did get it saved . Now I will have it till I crash :CRY:
Been a long time since anyone posted here so I figured I'd whine a bit!!! And so far you folks haven't flamed me for it - yet:HMMM:
I picked up my seats for my car yesterday. Beautiful upholstery job, nice soft leather-like premium vinyl (remember, it's a roadster) they really look nice - they fit the mount holes just fine - but they look "wrong" in my car. They're too bulky for an 'A' and probably even a deuce roadster. Right now - with a cold adult beverage in my hand, being diluted with tears, I'm trying to decide how to proceed. I have an idea - but of course it's going to cost $$ (any way I go it will), but I'd like to hear if any of you has an idea, and maybe a better one then what I'm considering - and I'm not going to jump in a hurry:whacked::whacked: that is at least not until tomorrow or the next day:CRY:
Hey Dave, where are the pics of these "bulky" seats? If you're gonna "whine", at least show us what you're whining about! Maybe you need a few second opinions.......LOL!
I haven't posted here in a while either, obviously. In fact, I haven't even been on the CHR site for about 4 days cause I kept getting virus warnings about the keithcraft ad banners. Don't know if they got that fixed or not but having had to deal with virus crap, I haven't been to anxious to risk it too much.
I'm going to work on my car tomorrow. I'm going to re-mount the rear end. I picked up a set of rear springs that will lower the rear of the car to a more respectable height but I needed the mounting brackets to fit. I drove down to SAC Hotrod Chassis and picked up what I needed including a nice rear sway bar. Unfortunately, SAC is closing the doors due to the economy so I had to act quickly. It's a drag cause they've been in business a long time. The springs I bought were from SAC too but I bought them slightly used from a guy on craigslist. The whole setup should change the height & handling of the car for the better. Will try to snap a few pics while I'm at it.
Anyway, hope you're having a good summer. You gotta drive that car even if the seats are too big!
Later,
Randy
Randy - I'm haven't taken pictures - I was so disgusted with myself that I took 'em out and stuck them in the corner. This is just one more thing that I tried to "make do" with left overs from the sedan that I stared this long car build journey with and has bitten me in the posterior side of my anatomy. They would be perfect in anything but a roadster. I'm going off junk yarding in the next few days and will be looking for a Mexican blanket for temporary upholstery:o:o
Mike - I tried the second 'adult' beverage route - and it didn't help a bit. They're STILL too bulky this morning. As far as the girls I used to date - there are reasons that I NEVER (EVER) go to school reunions. I was coerced into I believe, the 25th some years ago..............:CRY::CRY: that really cute and petite cheer leader I was in love with - 200# and solid gray hair and her husband - worse.
I'll get a couple of pictures of the seats later on and post, tho they wont be in the car.
If I remember right, you don't stop with just 2 beverages...:3dSMILE: In any event, I've finally learned that they never really solved a problem. Just added new ones!:HMMM:
Dave, 10-4 on the cheerleader. Same song, different tune here.:D
Also, you actually expected each of your choices were going to be correct the first time? Mine NEVER are!:LOL: Don't see why you would get away with that!:rolleyes:
IC2, while you are in the junk yard take a long look at the middle seat from a Dodge/Plymouth van. I am satisfied with mine that cost all of $15 with velour covering and built in seat belts. Considering the "sticky" feeling of vinyl in the sunlight, I think the velour is actually better as long as you put the top up and down in sync with the weather! The seat just fits tightly in my '29 cockpit so it should be an easy fit in your slightly larger cockpit. In my local carry-out junk yard (Chesterfield Auto Parts) I was able to look over six such seats and pick one that matched for color and in good condition.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Nah Mike, seldom have more then a couple and in fact, it's usually just one with the DW and her glass of the juice of the grape unless I'm really "hot", temperature - or temper after a dumb decision like $700 worth of seats. At least that wasn't quite as bad as my rear wheels and tires that fit the sedan just right. That screw up was over $900:CRY: I shouldn't whimper too much as what I paid for that car vs. what I sold it for. I'm still a wee bit ahead even with my errors in judgement
Don, that MoPar van has that exact seat that I want to look at along with the ProCar Scat Low Riser. The junky's around here might not be so cheap as VA though - remember, I'm in NY, the land of taxes and fees that of course get passed on to the end user:mad:. Color - well Mexican blankets.............
Yeah, I KNOW the feeling of tossin' money around! I AM on my 3rd grille remember! :D:D:D At least your ahead. If your serious about the van seat - I know a guy in town here who has one that's probably never even been sat upon. He had the seat removed so they could convert the van to a rear load handicap rig for his daughter. If your interested I can ask if he'd like to sell it.?.?. I know it's not going back into the van.